bigjohn

I think this engine has the same wasted spark coilpack module that my old 1.4 16v mpi Octavia mkI had that used to fail every 60k miles or so and was always sensitive to hot / and or cold when starting to fail - especially after a long run. Could be hard to start and / or stuttery when you floored the throttle as it tended to drop to two cylinders. Easy/cheap to replace. It didn't throw codes initially until really bad. One unit that was failing actually ended up with a big hole in it - that one fully dropped to two cylinders! IAs they were relatively cheap and I'd had a few fail in the cars life (19 years owned by the family - until my son broke it!) I even bought a spare. https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/starline-ignition-coil-41344029s As mentioned above double check you don't have a vacuum in the fuel tank after a run - it'll hiss as you undue if it has. When not starting it's worth dropping to first principals - after turning over for a while does it smell of petrol at the exhaust tailpipe, connect one of the leads to a spare spark plug and position against the engine metal - does it spark on turning over.

Missed the "Fixed" bit - nice one.

Great news re compression!

Even if it's the worst case scenario of the cam chain / low compression on a cylinder or two I can't imagine it jumping around on its mounts?? Mounts ok?

Had to revert to first principals recently to help out a friend with an old classic early 70's Daimler fitted with the fab xk engine. It had ground to a halt and he had been recovered , but since then he'd been "fettling" unfortunately. Live battery feeds disturbed and left loose, centre carbon missing in new distributor cap and he's scrambled the lead firing order (oh is that important!). Reverted to plugs out to feel the hiss of compression for each cylinder and note rotor arm position. Fit old but ok distributor cap, re fit points, replace condenser (knackered) and fix live battery lead trying to avoid welding socket set. Smell exhaust for petrol(it did!) etc........ It was like therapy , old style! After 30 mins ish it fired into life, probably the original fault was the condenser.

Probably not the issue and a bit like asking Grandma to suck eggs but - but is petrol being injected? Plug should smell of petrol, or even the exhaust tailpipe after a few attempted starts.

In my previous Superb mkII I used a Volton Split Charge Relay ZR1220 where I wired a 12v cig plug to connect to the car and also wired 2 12v inline sockets as the output. One powered my dash cam and the other powered a 12v coolbox when needed. Basically it detects when the car is charging and then switches the power through - works as default but there is a small potentiometer that you could adjust the trigger voltage if required, but take a note/photo of the start position. No longer required in my new car as the 12v sockets are only energised when car powered up. [EDIT]Photo shows when first installed with one socket for a cool box, second was added later:-

We've not quite achieved being a one car family yet as well - it appears my rust proofing and fettling of Mrs BJ's 2006 Fiat Panda has worked too well. It's worthless to sell but it's still in pretty good condition.

Blimey how hard did you drive your mkI Superb diesel? Mine seemed to always average about 50mpg unless just driven for a short local journey - it was only a poverty spec 1.9pd 100 though. Overall mpg of my following mkII Superb 1.4tsi was circa 46mpg but was much more variable compared to the mkI 1.9 pd. Fully laden would affect the mpg more in the petrol. I Suppose I've gone the opposite way from einrac changing from a Superb to a Swace (Corolla TS in drag) but I needed to downsize a bit as me and Mrs BJ are now retired and we don't need two cars but she found the Superb too big to drive locally etc. We contemplated an Octavia but the touch screen re basic function (eg heating) was a problem as Mrs BJ is a fully paid up member of the Luddite Society. I didn't get on with the Scala/Kamiq when I tried them - more to do with me as I'm 6ft4" and the lane assist stuff was bonkers.

I think this is true on many recent petrol cars in varying implementations - it's to light up the catalyst. The colder it is the longer it is required for. Whilst the catalyst isn't up to temperature your car emits way more harmful emissions. Even my previous 2014 mkII Superb with the old EA111 1.4tsi petrol revved up to 1100 rpm for a while when cold. The evo 2 version of the 1.0 and 1.5 tsi has been used for a couple of years in the Kamiq/ Scala etc - this was first rolled out in the VW T-Roc. "This is an advanced efficiency engine and one of the improvements was a new catalytic converter that reaches its operating temperature more quickly."

Tell me about it, I sometimes drive Mrs BJ's Panda that has teeny pedals. The BIG problem is I have size 13/extra wide shoes!

Cars a very sensitive to low voltage these days - I'd start with a new battery unless it's very nearly new!

Such as?

What codes are stored - playing part replacement wont help other than making things worse? Check battery voltage as if on its way out can cause random problems,

This is not a new problem but possibly made worse with long oil changes and low friction piston rings - all makes. Back in the day I used to try squirting in copious plus gas into each bore and leaving overnight before oil change. I used to then squirt in a touch of oil into each plug hole , turn engine over a then a thimble of petrol into each bore before starting. This same procedure was good for waking up gummed up or long dormant engines,

Bigger car means bigger pockets

Even my hybrid seems to use regenerative braking most of the time. I've been advised by a friend who has run a few Toyota hybrids(does high mileage) to occasionally really use the brakes to clear disk surface but in doing so brake pads and disks will last for years and over 100k miles. Mine has only done 6k miles thus far so disks etc still look new. However you don't really notice what it's doing re braking/ regen, it's interesting if travelling down a hill with adaptive cruise engaged - if starting to increase speed you can tell that it tries regenerative braking first (and see on engine monitor) to steady the ship, then if needed it introduces engine braking (rev counter moves ) and if that's not enough the brakes are gently applied (I know as you can see the brake lights reflecting off things at night). Presumably electric cars are similar(but no engine!) but use more regenerative (bigger generator?) before requiring the brakes.

Seconded, hydraulic issue.

Just remember a few years ago brake pads/shoes and clutches contained asbestos.

Reminds my of driving my friends vintage Morris where you monitor the car parameters all the time eg manual ignition advance/retard and keeping an eye on battery capacity and manually turning off charging where the battery full indicator is the battery bubbling away. Surely any modern electric car would just automatically deal with any regeneration issues etc, my hybrid certainly does.

The Swift is indeed a smaller car and only a mild hybrid - not Toyota gubbins. The Swift Sport is a load of fun though - no longer available new.

Superb mkII is a fab car and the 2.0cr diesel engine is one of the best in the model. Make sure DPF is present and working correctly. On my 2014 face lift I found a potential future rust trap behind where the front wheel arches meet the sill. I removed a few screws holding the wheel arch liner in place in that area and it revealed a huge amount of debris in that area. I cleaned out and rust proofed thoroughly although to be fair there was no evidence of rust. Easy quick job though. Check drain off points into that area from the plenum chamber. I checked other area including where the rear wheel arches meet the sills to be sure and they seemed ok but they still got rustproofed whilst I was in there. On the facelift there are no drain bungs under the sills but I found the drain points at the bottom behind the above wheel arch liners so I check they were clear, one was blocked but quickly cleared with a thin knitting needle. I also rust proofed along the sill whilst I was at it using Dinitrol Rust Proofing Cavity Wax with extension wand. All messy but satisfying. Eventually I also injected door, boot lid & bonnet bottoms. Sadly I sold mine last year an it was still fabulous with little signs of decay.

I'd say you haven't had enough fill ups in February statistically. Your mpg figures are incredibly up and down is that due to the click off difference by various filling pumps? I found that with my previous Superb mkII after I was told to only fill up to first click - caused an engine management light earlier in it's life, overfilling with cheap petrol in Luxembourg!. I found the first click varied somewhat between different petrol pumps but on average it was fine of course. I used Spritmonitorl for a while - but get bored once I've calculated the approx variation from the displayed mpg after a few months. The Superb mkII 1.4tsi display was surprisingly accurate but my previous Superb mkI was actually rather pessimistic. My latest Swace is optimistic by about 2mpg compared to Spritmonitor - cold weather affects the hybrid more though. Or is it your rear brakes seizing as mentioned elsewhere re pad wear?

My mkII 2014 Superb didn't come with a service book from new but had printouts from the main dealer re servicing. When I moved away from the main dealer I bought a new blank service book(ebay) and stapled the last service history printout into the front of the book showing servicing thus far - thereafter I got my local independent garage to fill in and stamp the book when serviced. EG https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116009077431?_skw=skoda+service+book&itmmeta=01JK9KSSPRGA5NSQ8CKASBHR0Z&hash=item1b02ae0ab7:g:HjgAAOSwm7lj~Od3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0CodCO1vSDjg2xNOt8By6oBLo95iGqM9m2Jjg6TsiJxQbok5Zehiofd9LWRkkdhVlJJYTSboOJsUxMxoiOy%2FJQOlLhZruwT2Uoq2DbXqBBZLlFAlic64qWzqQrjgQwtqMVvpWUPuAlyze26Lco%2BAsyi0wm41kpC8B3coLtL625%2FuQoKMM0dXerOfUn66f6N59zW%2BCXi%2FsWhvf7bTzH4DgAf7VLSFXx8n3HBVM2KYi1ESrYS%2B51d7xPh%2FlINwNszMqn9gErytC%2BqeItO1ez6zwS4%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8Cb57OaZQ

Yes indeed I think that would be a great car! I tried the CHR but I felt claustrophobic and didn't really fit - oh and the boot was teeny. Price might be an issue with a Corolla Cross even if they did it though, here in Yorkshire I struggled with the concept of breaking the £20k barrier(just!) - £30k would have been a step too far. The recent Toyota hybrid gubbins has been a revelation to be honest, many years ago I tried an early Prius and it rather put me off. It was a friend who re-introduced me to the technology.