bigjohn

Check wiring loom in hatch/boot first - common issue:-

Try adjusting the boot "stops". Earlier versions had a very long thread on Briskoda re noise:-

From a while ago - variable vane issue? however make sure all pipes (turbo/ vacuum etc) are ok first.

I'd be worried about a place that doesn't know the engine - I thought the VRS245 had the EA888 cam chain petrol engine?

With my Superb II (facelift) all the 12v sockets (front & boot) are permanently live. To run a coolbox in the boot that turns off with the engine I wired up a split relay(PCT Volton Relay ZR1220) that plugs into the boot 12v socket and outputs to another socket for the cool box. On my travels it's one way I know stop start has kicked in - the coolbox turns off!

Does the mkII Superb suffer from this as well? I think I have the same issue.

I bought my Michelin Crossclimate tyres in 2017 for my 2014 Superb II. I'm about to replace them as the tread is low near the edges but not complaining as I've done over 36k miles with them - no sign of cracking. Fabulous tyres especially in the wet and amazingly quiet. The only slight gripe is they only come with 7mm tread new - but they have lasted the test of time.

What I'm trying to say is the mkII does seem to sag over time - made worse with weight. I noticed another today that looked a bit low. It's worth at least checking re height. Recently checked my tyres and the inside edge has worn worn on my Crossclimates but they were on the car before the spring repair. I'm about to replace them soon - can't complain really as they have done 36k miles.

I'd second this. The Superb is a heavy beast and if you carry loads etc the springs do suffer. I had a similar issue wearing tyres on the inside somewhat - especially after a long trip through France fully laden with luggage / big people. Even on it's return it still wore on the inside a little. Eventually it failed it's MOT on a snapped spring(separate issue) and after replacement of both sides I was quite surprised how much higher the rear end looked - although looking at an earlier photo it was just back to the height when nearly new. Tyre wear now back to normal. The Superb II has independent rear suspension which introduces negative camber as each side of the rear compresses - if sagged all the time that camber will wear the tyres on the inside. I'd follow the advice to check heights as posted above by chimaera

On my Facelift with halogen headlights:- Dipped beam - H7 (55w) Daytime running/Main Beam - H15 (15/55w) Fog lights - H8 (35w) Halogen headlights usually 55w

Indeed - In the past I've seen all sort of horrors re brake fluid especially when repairing restoring cars the stuff I've drained off has been unbelievable and it's hard to imagine some of these were still being driven just before being stripped. The worst was a 1990 Passat with a regulator valve on the rear axle that was trapping brake fluid no matter how you bled the system - in the end all pipes/valves/cylinders were all replaced and bleeding had to include different valve positions. Some of the original fluid came out looking like chocolate milk!! A close second was a 1986 Volvo 740 Estate(my Dad's!) that looked like it had a black brake reservoir (it didn't but it rather changed colour as you bled the system!). It was a right swine to properly bleed as it had fluid trapped in a strange cross circuit switch/sensor which sensed a circuit fail. In turn that switch/sensor was sticking as the internal ball assembly separating the system was starting to rust internally! Even when you changed the switch it was hard to get the air out of that bit. There wasn't an electronic procedure to help back then! Saying that it was an impressive dual circuit setup - each front brake caliper had a piston/bleed valve on each circuit and considering I found out the brake fluid was over a decade old at the time all the pipes & nipples came undone. Re the original post though it's not always enough just to test what's in the brake master cylinder reservoir as this fluid may have been topped up with fresh after a brake or clutch job but that won't have replaced it elsewhere in the system.

Is the engine turning at all - double check looking a crankshaft pulley - making sure it's not just failure due to lack of compression - eg potential cam belt issue! If engine has no compression it will spin quickly on the starter motor. Starter motor should engage with the ring gear turning the primary mass of the DMF and turn the engine - so should turn engine even if DMF is in trouble ie probably not that!

Never go beyond the first click when filling with petrol. Light may go out after a number of starts without detected error. Not sure re Kamiq but I had this with my Superb after I brimmed it in Luxembourg on holiday shortly after I had bought it. Booked a visit to a German dealer - light eventually went out(after numerous starts) but I had it checked out anyway and I was told not to overfill. It's been fine since with a one click fill strategy.

Out of interest what have you bought instead?

I had a career based on turn if off and on and again (IT) 🤣 Sometimes a glitch can trigger an EML incident that clears after a set number of starts - in the case of my Superb it was shortly after I had bought it and filled to the brim in Luxemburg (cheaper petrol). I booked it into a German dealer en-route after phoning my home dealer for advice. The EML had cleared before I arrived at the dealer - but they checked it out anyway, saying "von clik halte!!"

Ok - it was just a diagnostic enquiry as cruise control uses a sensor from the clutch master cylinder - cruise disengages when clutch pedal is depressed. Of anything to have been disturbed is the wiring to this.......

Presuming it's master and slave being changed I'd say in this case it's sensible at this high mileage/age especially as clutch fluid is rarely bled through even during the bi-annual brake fluid change so the condition of the cylinders/pistons can be er interesting (I've seem some horror stories)!! I also think the 1.6 Greenline diesel has an external slave cylinder (unlike the 2.0) so not a gearbox off job - ie cheaper simpler. Also you are only dealing with the hydraulics once and not risking doing half a job to then experience another potential breakdown. I would have though a code would show up if EML is on however I do wonder if something has been disturbed. Out of interest was cruise control working ok on the way back? Also where was it last filled with diesel?

Miss post - was pasting Erwin link for someone!!!

How about good old fashioned stainless Jubilee clips? - I find them more reliable as well. Saying that I'll save that Aliexpress link - looks rather useful.

I'm not sure the 1.8tsi even has an EGR valve? - I think this function is carried out via the variable valve timing.

Hmm, sound like that's a difference between the facelift and pre facelift models. Mine has no sill rubber bungs. There is a small drain channel at the front and rear of each sill ie at the bottom of all that rubbish!! I got the Dinitrol flowing - probably a little too much and didn't wait long enough as some flowed out as I set off. The reason I first checked is I walked past a very early mkII (2008?) a while ago that had rusting sills at the front - and I've got a bit more time on my hands these days!! A friend of mine has a Golf (circa 2010?) that had the same design issue but even worse - VW put in extra foam bits around the wheelarch I think are for extra soundproofing which were soaked through with water(Rust will love that!). PS - I don't recommend bitumen spray on its own. I found things can rust underneath the bitumen and track along - almost makes it worse! - and you can't see it until it's too late. I did have success with Waxoyl underseal if pre painted with clean engine oil the day before (at least) - and yes it does cover but makes a right royal mess - but it works. A few years ago I re visited a Morris 1000 I'd restored in 1988 and the oil/Waxoyl underseal was still tacky and made your hands mucky if you touched it. Not bad for over 3 decades ago. I'd also blatted a mix of hot clean oil/Waxoyl into cavities. All was rust free except for the bottom of the boot lid - which had been perfect at the time of restoration(should have rustproofed at the time!). Again I found Waxoyl on its own kind of sat on top of layered rust, ok if metal in good condition - mixed with oil it soaks in nicely. Dinitrol seems to soak in /protect straight out of the tin - so these days that's what I use internally and obviously Owatrol Oil if exposed to the elements - which that part you've photographed is. It's a design flaw in that everything from the plenum above drains through that area and any solid-ish bits are trapped.

I'm confused. My 2014 tsi stop/start only has one car battery(EFB)

Myself - I love Owatrol oil (Rust inhibitor) that sets to a kind of resin finish. Seems to handle road spray very well - and you can see through it afterwards to keep an eye on it. Inside sections/sills/door bottoms, bonnet front, boot edge I use Dinitrol. I wish I had done this to my previous 2003 Superb when younger that I bought in 2005 and sold in 2015 after putting a large commute mileage on it. The new owner(who I know) recently said it has just been scrapped due to a terminal MOT rust prognosis on the sills - If I'd done a bit of work a decade or so ago it'd still be going strong. Saying that he's had 7 years reliable motoring and put another 100k miles on it. I used to restore / preserve cars but when doing an awful / long commute for decades bodywork then seemed the least of my troubles. Now I've retired I've decided to try and make my 1.4tsi a keeper.

My car is slightly newer but has done over 100k miles however I'd suggest you undue a couple of screws on the wheel arch liner each side front/rear near the sills to see what's behind. There is a design flaw especially on the front that traps all sorts of carp. Easy to clean out and rust proof but if left then eventually it would rot out. It's also worth finding the drain channel at low level entering the sill front/rear and checking if clear, one of mine wasn't! I used a thin knitting needle to insert. I also squirted Dinitrol deep into the sills front/rear. All the above jobs are quick and easy - if not a bit messy! Photos before/after + rust proofing sills:-

Except for you measuring voltages and being worried - has the car been fine since? I think the behaviour you mentioned could be normal as your car is stop/start. That's why I asked if it was.