bigjohn

These "sponges" do long term damage trapping moisture against metal eventually causing rust, Not all cars have them. Trapped debris causes more havoc though. One thing I forgot to mention - before I rustproof door bottoms etc I squirt in 3 in 1 through all the drains as the thin oil soaks into the seams , followed by Dinitrol. Before I found Dinitrol I used a warmed up Waxoyl (paraffin based) and clean engine oil mix internally and underneath I "painted" on clean engine oil every where especially over recent welding followed the next day on exposed panels Waxoyl Underseal which mixed with the oil creating a goo mess that lasts! I now prefer Owatrol oil as if you missed a bit as above you didn't see any trapped rust as it was blacked over - saying that I re encountered a Morris 1000 that I restored in 1988 and it was still tacky underneath! and generally rust free except the bottom of the boot lid - but that was perfect in 1988 so I think I ignored, oops.

I undid a few screws and pulled out a bit at each end. I also sprayed inside up and over onto the inside of wheel arches etc. That extension wand was useful! Infact it reminds me - I'll have another look see and quick top up of rustproofing of the fleet as it warms up in the spring. One good thing on my Superb II is I don't have the inner wing large sound proofing foam pads(might be because mine is a petrol) - if you encounter those I'd be tempted to remove as they trap moisture & condensation against the bodywork. That's why you see rusty front wings on some ageing VWs and Audis - especially Passats. The old timer is now 10 years old and I've had it for 9 of those years. Looking a lot better than the previous 2003 Superb at the same age which wasn't lavished with the same treatment - I now have more time on my hands as I retired three years ago. Still looking reasonable:-

The Dinitrol kit I've used is linked below and contains an extension wand that reaches well down the sill so you can rust proof from drain points. On my Superb they were either end behind the wheel arch liners -- not sure re the Octavia III (I'll check my son's mkIII next time I see it). Look out for any drain holes / and or bungs - good access points for Dinitrol extension. I've done all the door/boot/bunnet bottoms on our fleet as well as sills, some chassis etc. Re Owatrol - simply clean and hand wire brush any mud / debris. You don't have to remove light surface rust, Then cover either with the aerosol (great for quick cover of suspension etc) or paint on with a brush (great for blathering spring cups etc). As an example my wife got a a garden ornament that you hung up a few years ago and within a day or so it was quickly looking awful with rust and she was rather upset - I dried and blathered with Owatrol and it's still looking ok many years later. Also in addition we painted her 1.2 Panda's rusty sump with Owatrol and it's still looking ok. All of the above makes a mess - worth an old ground sheet below if you have one. Leave a while for it to settle after treatment so you don't leave a trail of rustproofing stuff! Links:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0076L4BII/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Paint-Additive/dp/B0038LWMFY/ref=sr_1_2_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662684&sr=8-2 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Owatrol-Rustol-Owatrol-Multi-Function-Additive-0-500/dp/B002YXXQJS/ref=sr_1_3?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tslN4f88fE9ieZvgnN0sOOzZCmKOj2mLXAaLK32ojKoDmRf5hFNwpgi9UMlBIOBr9XcDNZRuQxMoY3-Na-scJMh64IwjLAHMxUGCFYgQLNpILH1TSDrubkIplgud33DlJL4xDKD8lNUaTTOcHD_MbkESs3bJtQvmIX2rt0X04obiuXVney8XXPgTuceVbj8Nmk6zFbP0Rhr3SfCb9SAMGcIbElMTt73zFcDd3Ve2gOopmHiig29aDtumdN_8skCmBmDi7CDThTS_93Ua7IjSEMTTN9OED7TLlVYePpwLs7A.C2j4ovKcPxCk59gycHeFY29EARjEwez71qNA_2a_nPc&dib_tag=se&keywords=owatrol+oil&qid=1709662754&sr=8-3 I had some trapped debris behind my wheelarch liners and a sill drain was blocked - used a thin knitting needle to clear. Offending garden ornament at the bottom:-

Generally I find my mkII incredibly quiet but mine is the poverty spec with quieter higher profile Crossclimate tyres and of course it's a petrol. Back in the day when I made a kit car I found the most effective but less intrusive way of sound proofing was bitumen sheets applied to front and rear bulkheads, transmission tunnel, floors, foot wells etc. The sheets were quite thin so didn't intrude re carpets etc. As well as the noise reduction it eliminated body panel resonance - almost made it toooo quiet for a sports car. Be careful under the bonnet re flammable materials etc.

In the UK I've found VAG cars to be excellent re rust resistance on the main body but poor re subframes / suspension / bolt on crossmembers / backplates. The body is usually fully galvanised. I may have been generally lucky re steel quality, which can vary, though I had one exception to this - my previous 2003 mk I Superb was quick to show signs of rust. My current 2014 Superb is remarkably rust free but I've kept on top of protection and clearing out mud/crud traps (eg behind wheel arch liners especially near sills). My son has a 2016 mkIII Octavia and that is pretty good re rust, infact one of the weak spots on my Superb II re trapping crud at the rear of the front wheel arches behind the liner seems to have been resolved by design on the mkIII Octavia. I've found our past and present Fiats to be much worse. They use galvanised metal but they are welded together after that process so they tend to rust at welded seams/joints. Terminally if you don't keep on top of it. I've witnessed bad rust on Mazda and Toyota cars. My current favorite rust protection products 1) Owatrol Oil for externally facing body/ wheel arches/suspension/ backplates/subframes - rust inhibitor that sets to a clearish resin finish and doesn't wash off 2) Dinitrol cavity wax - inside chassis, sills, door/boot bottoms.

Which engine is fitted? Sometimes after a rebuild after re bore/new pistons/honing etc it takes a while for things to run in / wear together and oil consumption can be on the high side for a while. But not usually with clouds of smoke. Have new valve oil seals been fitted? Also check everything to do with Crankcase ventilation as if crankcase pressure is high oil can be blown past valve oil seals at times! If you get smoke when first accelerating after been cruising or on the overrun then I'd suspect valve oil seals or crankcase pressure. If smoke is more constant then I'd suggest a mis assembly issue re pistons / rings - might be worth using a bore scope to have a look to make sure those honed bores aren't being damaged. I did something similar with an old Cortina 1300 many decades ago and had an issue with the replacement top rings as they came into contact with a slight wear lip at the top of the bore (I hadn't rebored) which damaged the rings. I partially solved by fitting a top stepper ring instead, although I ultimately regretted not getting a full rebore.

The "standard" 7J x 16 ET45 wheel for the Superb mkII was the Spectrum. I'm not sure another 16" rim was available as original fit. I think there was a much larger choice of 17" rims. Saying that I love my 16" 205/55/16 tyres - the ride is sublime.

Good to know for future reference - I might try a set on the Superb next time but I'll be stuck with them for 4 years these days as my annual mileage has substantially dropped. I have 205/55 r16's om my Poverty spec version but love the amazing ride quality. They might see the car out in my ownership - I think I'm aiming for another 5 years as it's condition is excellent thus far! We shall see - I've been put off considering a change as prices are bonkers and I still rather like the old bus.

Funny you should mention tread depth - Crossclimate I measured my last Crossclimate 2's when I bought them for my Superb mkII @7mm. I've always been a fan of the Crossclimate and have had a couple of sets - I usually get about 35k miles out of them. They are quiet but I'd say when they are getting towards the end of life at certain slow speeds in hot weather they have a slight "hum". However the road noise levels were transformed compared to the previous Continental (& original) summer tyres and the Crossclimates are astounding in really really wet weather. In the recent wintry stuff they were pretty good, and I've occasionally driven in very hot weather on lengthy summer European trips (well not during Covid!!) and performance was good. Goodyear Vector I also measured some Goodyear Vector 2's that I had fitted to Mrs BJ's Panda last year @a smidge under 9mm. Thus far I can't comment re longevity of these as the Panda only does low mileage but driving wise they seem good. Pretty quiet and it sticks to roundabouts like a limpet. In the recent wintery weather you kind of didn't notice - which is a good thing!

The VAG tsi seems to be plug sensitive. On my 1.4tsi Superb the plugs were replaced during my last 120k miles service, I didn't think there was an issue before the service but it really improved the performance and smoothness.

For reference I once had some play in the steering of my mkI Octavia 1.416v which turned out to be splines within the reach adjustment of the steering columns. The play disappeared if you adjusted the steering wheel so it was furthest away from you. Eventually it needed a new steering column.

My previous mkI diesel Superb did this when full - or just off full of diesel. Worried me when I first got it but it was nothing to worry about. I suspect most fuel tanks do it but what you hear in the cabin probably depends on soundproofing etc and your estate only has a flexible boot cover. I never hear it in my mkII petrol Superb twindoor.

Hmm, another previous Allegro owner here 1973 1750 ss . 5 Speed box with a really torquey engine and a reasonable ride. Generally I rather liked it but with such a heavy engine and skinny tyres it was prone to understeer. I'll join the getting my coat queue.............

Try the bleeding - that's easy. I had issues with the pedal sticking and my local independent tried this. The fluid came out a funny colour and it's been ok since. There is a "dump" valve to protect the clutch against rapid release that can rust internally if the clutch/brake fluid has water content. Service replaces brake fluid every two years after the first change at three years but doesn't include the clutch even though it shares the same fluid reservoir. I now always ask for clutch fluid change when the braking system has a fluid change.

If 2.0 diesel then it's a concentric clutch slave cylinder that's a gearbox off big job (it's the 1.6 that has an external slave - easy job) so I'd try a clutch fluid refresh / bleed first then if that doesn't work replacing master cylinder is possibly the next option. If that doesn't work then it's a gearbox off job so you might as well change the whole clutch, slave and possibly even Dual Mass Flywheel whilst the gearbox is off - not cheap though😟.

Which engine do you have? You could try bleeding the clutch / brake fluid as there is a valve within the slave cylinders (different depending on the engine) that can rust if the fluid has moisture in it (Brake fluids are hygroscopic - absorb water). The next plan of action depends on if you have a concentric or external slave cylinder which varies depending on the engine.

I think it's a recent thing with a UK phone SIM - Giffgaff uses O2. It was fine in every country except Germany. Other British people who were staying nearby also were having similar problems. I had no such issues on my last trip over there circa 2019. My phone is a Pixel 6a. I've previously had a Pixel 2 & 4a and really like them.

Hmm, I found Trier a real pain to park in this summer. Most car parks wanted me to load up an app, very difficult as in Germany the phone roaming speeds seem to be restricted somehow - I suspect to 2G speeds. I got stressed, gave in and went elsewhere. Roaming was fine in France, Luxembourg, Belgium, Holland etc. I use Giffgaff.

My 2003 mkI Superb 1.9pd 100 was a fab car and the 1.9pd 130 will be even better. Cruised amazingly well, always did 50ish mpg , amazing room, refined and my favourite bit was the comfortable suspension. I rather miss the 750miles + range on a tank of diesel. If you find a good one great but check a few things:- As already mentioned check the pollen filter seal/water under the carpet - fortunately mine was always ok, probably as I had the dash / climate control removed when under warranty(faulty recerc servo) gasket replaced. Check drains in the plenum chamber inc under battery. Vacuum system controlling EGR/Variable Vanes on turbo and anti shudder - does the engine shudder when you turn off? This valve is easily visible at high level with the bonnet up on the drivers side. Lever should move on engine turn off. You can get leaks if the rubber pipes have rotted or the hard plastic pipes have rubbed through somewhere (as mine did). Rust is a thing - check everywhere especially sills, wheel arches etc.. I sold my old car to a friend in 2015 and it lasted until last year (nearly 300k miles) but terminally failed its MOT re structural rust on sills (remove those rubber bungs to check for water!!!) Front suspension can need expensive repairs that are difficult to do on old cars as things seize up. Check climate control works. If I could go back in time and buy a new one again - I would!!

Agreed in a way but I was only trying to pass on my real life experience with numerous all season tyres. I did a high mileage horrible commute over many years (3 decades) so I tried various tyres to keep me alive. I suspect performance in the cold & wet is relevant for any model of car which is why all seasons are now fitted to Mrs BJs Panda which is a similar size to the Citigo. PS in the winter months the worst tyre was the Michelin Energy - never again, er on any car. Apologies for gate crashing the Citigo part of the forum.

I've tried a few different all season tyres over the years:- I've long been a fan of Michelin Crossclimate all season tyres and have had a few sets on my mkII Superb. I had a long/nasty commute for nearly 3 decades that was prone to dodgy winter weather so latterly I'd had two sets of wheels shod with summer or winter tyres until discovered the Crossclimates which were good in most conditions but fabulous in very wet conditions which to be honest was my biggest issue! I'd tried a set of Quatrac 5's on my previous Superb that were generally ok but not great in very wet conditions. Recently I've also flirted with Goodyear Vector tyres but this time on Mrs BJ's Fiat Panda Elaganza as Crossclimates were not available and to be honest I'm impressed thus far. It's hard to compare with my Superb but my goodness that little car really sticks to the road negotiating roundabouts etc. Winter driving was good but they haven't experienced deep snow yet - however initial impressions are good. NB Tyre Life:- The Quatrac 5's on my Superb I were amazing re tyre life - I sold my car with these still fitted but the new owner achieved over 60k miles on them! The original fitment Brigestones only lasted 18k miles! The Michelin Crossclimate tyres are lasting circa 35k miles a set which is great but note as new they only have have 7mm of tread The Goodyear Vector tyres had nearly 9mm new - time will tell.

CAREFUL re tightening - not on this engine I've stripped a few sump plug threads in my time trying to solve such a leak.

I suspect most of the fuses would trigger a code if disconnected. It’s best to pick on a low current circuit. How about switching the starter motor solenoid cable , not the high current battery feed. I can understand what you are trying to do - I did something similar a few years ago(1990) when I built an e type jag replica kit car. I was really worried about it being stolen as car theft was a real problem then. I fitted a battery switch with removable key and because I was into electronics I made an immobiliser (74 series chips) that did a primitive monitor of the Jag rocker switches that had to be in a certain position when you attempted to start the car. I drilled the distributor and inserted a hidden wire that enabled you to short the points etc via the immobiliser. This lasted a while but I discovered the 74 chips really didn’t like the car environment - so I simplified to using just the Fuel A/B switch to short the points combined with the battery switch.

Does this mean the car won't start manually - not via stop start? Normally when stop start is incorrectly coded it doesn't operate - ie shut engine off- which doesn't seem to be the case here. I'd suggest one of the battery leads has been disturbed or incorrectly fitted on battery installation so is not making a circuit suitable for the high current starter motor.