rum4mo

Is this not a case where some posters are considering a different version of rear calliper that VAG did use on this size of car, but maybe now VAG have extended the use/application of the alloy version for cars that don't have an electric handbrake, and so confusing the OP's issue?

Yes, as already said, many TRW callipers are iron, but that model of rear calliper with cable operated handbrake function, in most cars, is alloy. Edit:- getting an iron calliper to go white with a powdery look would take some doing - rusty red/brown is the norm. Second Edit:- I do agree about the weight though, I still have my original one that I replaced with a Pagid one - and no need to hand body the old one, but it is aluminium alloy body type.

I'm sure that the Girling/Lucas/TRW rear callipers with built in handbrake function are aluminium alloy, if is ATE that tend to be cast iron. When corroded the cast iron ones go rusty coloured and the aluminium alloy ones go a nasty powdery white - as in one of these pictures. Edit:- I do agree that this issue is purely cosmetic, made to look worse by the paint coating cracking and separating from the alloy body and allowing moisture/salty moisture to get in and get trapped in there and "do its work", I've never had that happen with the original basic coating which might even be transparent originally. Second Edit:- just to prove the point, I've just been out to check the same rear callipers on my wife's car using a magnet, fronts iron - but I knew that, rears alloy - is what I already thought. My own car does have iron front and rear callipers though - but I also put them to the test with a magnet!

I had one start to leak on my 2011 S4 and that hurt my wallet quite a bit, as unfortunately some of the ones for the higher powered cars are not available from the aftermarket - well at least for "like for like" designs. So in for a penny and in for a pound, I ended up needing to order in a pair and get my local VAG Indie to replace them as they are a bit tricky to do at home - raise and support the engine and dropping the subframe assembly, to create space on all the V6 engines. Edited

If it is coming out of an engine mounting, it should be showing up where it is escaping from, the hydraulic fluid that escaped from my 2011 Audi S4 engine mounting was black, and unfortunately there was only Audi genuine parts available that were "like for like" for that car and so other ones, a bit hard on my wallet, but maybe forgotten about now, almost! You can always hope that there are some good quality aftermarket hydraulic engine mountings available for your car. In the end I just wiped off what I could, it was mainly showing up on the S4's aluminium subframe, and the under covers hide that, what I initially spotted was a wet/moist looking "thing" - that was the first time that I had eye balled these engine mountings, I found that during an annual service/inspection, so caught it early before that engine mounting failed completely.

I think that it is lack of real regular work that kills the rear discs, don't get me wrong, I prefer discs on the rear as they are easy to service, but rot does tend to set in earlyish, my wife's 2015 Polo's rear discs started looking nasty at the 5 or 6 year point but they seemed to work and the pads were still okay thickness wise, then last February, the RHS rear calliper started seizing and needed replacing to keep the car off the road as short a time as possible, and by then one side had worn pads, so a new set of pads and discs to finish that job off! Later in the year, while swopping winter tyres off to summer tyres on, I serviced the front brakes - the inner pads on one side were wearing with a wide lip = corrosion on the hidden inner face - so the front discs and pads got replaced! Mileage now is 54,000miles. My older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra, hd nasty looking rear discs from about the 2 years old point, at about the 3.5 year point, I felt the need to replace the worn rear pads, due to the rough surface of the discs, this April I felt the need to replace the pads again, so also replaced the discs, hopefully these Pagid discs will stay in better condition longer than the originals, its total mileage is now roughly 18,000miles, front brakes still okay thankfully.

Getting the brakes serviced, or doing that yourself if you are able, is something that too many owners avoids getting done, and ending up with brake issues tends to be the norm, this s is made worse typically by servicing is centred round the engine only - and a quick safety check around the car - and maybe highlighting any potential for "more business". If you feel brave enough to check how hot things have become, you could check the centreish wheel surface with the back of your hand or even a quick poke of the calliper, but the discs could be a bit hot to contact!

I've never ever had a leased car, but I would have thought that all maintenance would be either included in the cost, OR, an absolute demand clause included that made proper evidence of all necessary maintenance having been completed, especially during any warranty period - including any changes to periodicity of preventative maintenance which would be caught during the usual servicing. Doing that would be a lot easier than chasing current or past leasers for "out of pocket" expenses after a warranty rejection.

Depending on what you want/expect from a cabin filter, from the Mann website, there should be 3 options for the same size/shape of pollen/cabin filter, for years now I've been fitting the Frecious version in our cars. At one stage or time, cars with manual AC were factory fitted with basic filters, cars with auto AC were fitted with carbon coated filters, but it is up to you if a basic one is good enough for you, or you want the carbon coated option to try to kill some of the incoming air smells or even the Frecious version that adds in supposedly capturing even more things that might annoy you. As well as Mann, there is Valeo who provide the same options as Mann. If your car has a VW Group filter and it is a Mann one, as well as the VW Group identifications on it, there will be the Mann model number.

That sounds promising - I should end up looking at the ones in my wife's 2015 55,000 miles Polo 1.2TSI 110PS soon, after I pay an indie to replace the cam belt etc, just to be safe.

I've taken off the original factory fitted nuts on a couple of cars, and the locking tangs were still intact - I wasn't very impressed with that, the only ones that I took off and they broke as expected, was a 2002 VW Polo - the one's that didn't break were on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza and a 2015 VW Polo - still the same part number .

I don't suppose that you had the time or reason to check the 4 inlet valve areas - really just to check on the level of carbon build up on the backs of the inlet valves as they don't get washed by petrol on these DI engines. From your pictures, it does look a lot like the short final length of flexible pipe could have been offered as a spare part, so as it's a low pressure fuel line at that point, what you have done sounds like being a good enough fix. That price scares me a bit when you consider that my wife's slightly older car's price of that delivery pipe is listed as being twice the listed price of your one - unless that is an error in the parts listing I use.

Good find! There are a couple of part numbers depending on which PR code your car has:- For PR TP1 the p/n is 04E 133 723 CN For PR TL1 the p/n is 04E 133 723 CP which has been superseded by 04E 133 723 GN in 2023 Now, this is when my usual advice to get hold of a copy of your car's "CAR DATA" from a, in your case, Skoda dealership, is worth having, as it would make it clear which PR code is relevant for your car - what the differences are between them both I can't say. One other thing, you are possibly lucky, as the version of that delivery pipe fitted to my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and so age Fabia and Ibiza etc, is almost twice the price of the one fitted to later cars regardless of the PR code! Or, is this cheapness/cost reduction the reason why your delivery pipe has failed? (maybe not related in any way, but it does make me wonder as the price has been halved when it has been revised for later engines only. Edit:- by the way, the diagram shows the same sort of design for both delivery pipes and they are "one piece" from the RHS of the bonnet area to where they terminate on the HP fuel pump - using constant tension metal clip, p/n "N 910 203 01 Spring Band Clamp 14.5 X 12" BTW, did you need to remove the HP fuel pump - as your guide suggested?

Take one off if the wheels are factory fit version, you'll find a part number on the underside of the centre cap - stuff that into ebay etc and wait until sensible priced items appear, warning, main dealership can sometimes be cheaper than eBay! What really really annoyed me a week or so ago was, my wife's 2015 VW Polo ended up with a puncture, so I took the wheel off, dumped it in my car and dropped it off to get the puncture repaired - like a complete fool, I forgot to use the wooden handle of a hammer to knock the centre cap out before handing it over! Well that job got done and the wheel was collected, but when I refitted it to the car I noticed that some "clever" tyre fitter had used a screwdriver to lever the centre cap out from the front of the alloy wheel - very annoying and unnecessary, surely they could have knocked it out from the rear and so leaving no damage to the alloy wheel or centre cap! The plastic with maybe some metal content centre caps on that car's winter wheels are now showing signs of "white (corrosion) worm" - but they are 10 years old, I'll see what they look like after next winter and maybe look out for a set of 4 new centre caps - if any appear at an acceptable price on eBay.

There is a way to introduce a "series" current measuring device without "wakening" these cars up, just clamp one side of a DMM set on current measurement to the local body earth using a crock clip, have a long sharp probe on the other "side" of the DMM and pass it down onto the battery earth post, now slacken off the earth clamp and lift it up "over" the long sharp tipped probe - obviously you need to wait 20 or 30 minutes after switching the car off or opening any "openings" before doing this to allow the controller to go to sleep.

Correct, even with any of all "openings" left open. Well that is or was my findings covering a 2009 SEAT Ibiza, 2011 Audi S4 and 2015 VW Polo - and in VW Group land, I'd think that "one size fits all" in this respect.

On the topic of using the correct tool kit, I'd not think that it will be worthwhile to start this job before you have this Gen2 kit for 72mm bearings.

Well I've had that on a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion - it has a heavy front end, when it was maybe 8 years old and so maybe 60,000 miles, then, we've had that on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - which probably has a heavy-ish front end, when it was only 7 or 8 years old (forgotten) and so roughly 35,000 miles - that Polo's (French made) front off side wheel bearing look like it had suffered from water ingress which had made it noisy. Initially, in the November, I only noticed it when the winter tyres were on and only when driving in a certain area, plan "A" was, "it is just that road surface combined with the winter tyres, then it changed to appearing while driving in all areas, waited until I changed back to summer tyres - it was still there, so time to buy a cheap "made in China" Gen2 wheel bearing tool and 2 F-A-G bearings. I just replaced both sides as typically when something goes on one side the other one is getting the same way, which was probably wrong in my case. I was unable to tie it down to one side anyway, so replacing both seemed like a smart plan - and that worked for me, that car is now at almost 10 years 55,000 miles and still okay. If you are replacing these bearings yourself, you might end up trashing an ABS sensor or two, I only trashed the second side's one! I'd describe the noise in both cars as a "wha wha wha" a lot like old army trucks sound like with their all surface tyres, the VW Polo noise initially was only around 55>65MPH but as time went on, it appeared earlier and stayed for most of the road speed range in normal driving. I wouldn't expect that you will be able to detect any "slackness" in the affected wheel(s), so don't let that have you looking elsewhere.

I had to go into the internetweb to work out why I failed to do that "simple" task on my daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - it started to look a lot like I was going to break something - proper "stupid" design.

Hum, VAQ now "2 years", oh well, I suppose that I'll need to do that job again this year on my daughter's Leon Cupra, pump out this time though - last time was just a fluid change so that I could get a handle on how/what I needed to get that job done without too much mess! Plugs, seals and bolts at the ready, just need a bottle of fluid - a bit of a messy job as it entails draining the fluid down onto a cross member, before it ends up down in a container.

@Ootohere , yes even the warranty thing was different, when I bought 2 VW cars in Europe - as part of the allowed terms when we were in Europe - so bought Taxfree and tax paid at the point of applying for first registration, it was well known that these cars only came with 12 months warranty as that is all that the manufacturer provided at that time, the 2nd and/or 3rd year warranty was provided by the UK's importers of these cars - and obviously the customer was paying extra to cover that, hidden in or rolled up into the new car cost.

@smipx ,It might be interesting to see how a VW Group cam belt failure was "collected" by a used car warranty - hopefully you will never end up being on the receiving end of any fob offs. Though surely someone has already been through this, it would be useful if they could chip in with their experiences. I'm not in any way contradicting/criticising what your general feelings about this are, until this "relaxation" in time/distance change was rolled out by VW UK, Skoda UK etc etc, the rest of Europe and the world that VW AG sells its products into, had already been using longer service periods for these cam belts in "normal" sales regions, not just from a few years back, but at least back to 2000, it was just mainly UK sales area's main dealership service areas that were being encouraged into the initial "4 years" and then "5 years" change periods. I for one was willing to believe that they had extended this change period in UK because more robust materials were being used along with more robust support parts, when in reality it is more likely "the game is up" as we tend to have access to more relevant information.

@Ootohere , maybe consider what is written in more of the postings that you make reference to, it was not a discussion about different engines, but a discussion on the approach that some main dealerships take to some expensive recommendations - in this case replacing cam belts. The OP was discussing the sharp or possibly seen as nasty or opportunist side of a main dealership's approach, my example, which unfortunately also centred on cam belts was the opposite and more expensive way that a "extra service task" can be handled - as in my example it did go wrong and caused engine failure.

Personally I consider, in this case, that there is some wisdom in aiming to reduce the risk of cam belt or its support parts failing and so ending up with a trashed engine, a bit earlier than the manufacturer's recommended time/distance. The only thing that I have not worked out is just at what point this work should be carried out time/distance. Coming from running cars that came with initially "4 years" cam belt replacement, then onto the next engine improvement that lead to "5 years", for both cars I did get that work carried out at the recommended time/distance, I am now in the position of running a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS that is now at nearly 55,000 miles, and so I'm strongly considering that after its MOT later this month, I should be booking it in for cam belt etc replacement - if I don't do that, I think that I'll just have this nagging feeling that "what if" - so getting that work done should avoid that happening. We've owned this car from new and so will probably move it on within the next 6 years, so with that in mind, even if I stuck to VW Group recommendations, I'd still be ending up paying for that work to get done. That is just my thoughts on this. There is no doubt that your dealership is praying on the "what if" factor, but at what point does that convert into greed or "over selling" - that is the bit that could be hard to work out. I initially considered that when the 7.5 year point was reached, I would get this work done and so consider that when compared the "5 years" recommendation of the previous engines, I had gained 50% extra service life. Just a tale that I have probably told on here in the past:- a neighbour who would own up to knowing nothing about cars, bought one of the first front wheel drive Ford Escort 1300 with the CVH engine - he bought it from his friendly local "Ford agent" - these did exist years ago, so all good, a sensible price for his traded in Ford Fiesta and a sensible price for his new Escort 1300, he handed it in on time for all its servicing - then one day "bang" cambelt snapped, it was recovered to this garage, when he was told what the repair cost would be he was quite annoyed, and so asked why this had happened - the only answer he got was that this was sometime that could be expected to happen by that age/mileage if he had not got the cam belt etc replaced! Yes a friendly local garage, but one that was not helping the owner to avoid big failures like this, they would know that he was not a "car man" so it sounded a lot like they had let him down by not firmly suggesting that remedial extra work was getting carried out in time. So, which way would you prefer to play this, 1) greedy garage looking for extra work, or 2) friendly garage that lets you end up needing to spend a lot of extra cash ?

Yes, I've worked on the front struts on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza and a 2015 VW Polo, and all I did to get enough access to the strut tops was to use wooden wedges and/or blocks to keep one side of that cover up at a time. Doing that allowed enough room for me to use a "drive through" socket and a long enough hex bit through its centre. I think that if you find the need to remove this plastic cover completely, then you use a looped cable tie at each end of the cover where it locates under the windscreen, and start by pulling at each end first. It does seem to be quite easy to get things back together while retaining the original alignment, or near enough the original alignment, for the first car that I worked on I just sprayed yellow paint up on the lower outer end of the TCAs so that I could then reassembly things and used a mirror to get the nuts back into the exact same position. For the 2015 Polo I just used the "witness marks" on the paintwork of the TCA. I had some plain nuts of the correct size, so to get the TCA alignment correct on both cars I initially used these plain nuts and nipped them up tight, then replaced them one at a time using new stiff nuts - that worked for me. One year later, and I've still not got the Polo alignment checked/corrected and the tyres both summer and winter ones show even wear, I've still got the lower ball joints to replace, the alignment will get done after that. The only issue with that Polo is the steering wheel is maybe 5 degrees away from the "straight ahead" position, but I can live with that for a few more weeks/months.