rum4mo

I just used some HT Bearing grease on the bearing carrier/knuckle as it does not have any added metallic content which might annoy the ABS wheel sensor, used Moly grease on the forcing screw thread. I got lucky and only broke the ABS sensor on the second side - the RHS, increased the slot in the bearing rear plates to try to avoid that next time if ever that comes, also putting a lot of effort into clearing rust etc from the inner side of the hub carrier/knuckle improves your chances of avoiding bending/cracking/breaking the ABS sensor - buying Bosch ABS wheel sensors from places like PIM saves a lot of money over what I did and panic and buy from ECP, buying from VAG as you'd expect is a lot worse, from memory almost £100 4 years ago - and VAG dealers didn't hold any in stock, probably no call for them at that price!

Wow, no doubt this is all due to the steering knuckles being aluminium alloy, and was me thinking that I'd change the weeping/leaking front dampers on my older daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - which like the VRS will have alloy knuckles! I'm still recovering from this horrible "steel bolts in aluminium parts" after replacing too many bits on my 2011 Audi S4, a truly horrible job that got bigger and bigger and bigger - and so a lot more expensive ending up with me throwing the towel in with a car "now off the road" due to a seized then shearing lower pinch bolt on one upright, a rusted wheel bearing assembly that was eating ABS sensor on the other upright - that annoyingly, I had managed to get the lower pinch bolt out of the other upright before this - so wallet took a hammering in and I just ordered in 2 new uprights. I've still got the original aluminium uprights in the garage for when I feel up to the challenge of convincing the really really nasty long pinch bolts that they should just come out - really now just an exercise for me proving that given time, I can do it. Getting the wheel bearings out is also a tricky job, but I have now removed one of them, again just to prove that I could do that - and putting into use tools bought specifically to do that job on the car. I used a lot of PB Blaster, used blu tac to create bunds to hold/store PB Blaster around the affected areas, using an induction heater a few times, used an air hammer a lot, used a Mapp Gas torch as well, a long and not very satisfying job during the summer months - really leaving a lot of time for the PB Blaster to do its job in between the air hammering, induction heating and gas torching. One point, blu tac, after being in contact with PB Blaster is horrible stuff to handle and once the PB Blaster breaks through your blu tac barrier due to poor application, nothing much will seal it back up other than removing the blu tac and applying a lot more new stuff! One problem with the pinch bolts, I think, is, they are all very low strength bolts, so 8.8 as they only get torqued up to a very low figure to do their job - this ends up being a bit annoying when you need to get them out from aluminium lumps that have corrosion in these bolt holes, I used aluminium grease on all the new bolts and tried to seal up or close the pinch areas to try to hold back future corrosion. Luckily for me, the pinch at the bottom of the front dampers on B8 Audi S4 and others is steel, so easy to remove that pinch bolt tap it out and open the pinch area with the usual VAG "hub expander" without worrying about cracking any aluminium parts - same when working on Polo and Ibiza. @Richard80945, One bit of advice when handling aluminium knuckle pinch areas, maybe a good plan to make up shims from halved washers to fill the existing pinch gap - doing that should stop you ending up cracking the aluminium "lugs" of the knuckle. If I had known or experienced what I have now concerning this job, I would have headed straight to the stage where I bought in 2 new uprights, yes very expensive but I would not have felt the need to buy an induction heater, new hub puller/slide hammer, new gas torch or new hub press tool - but really, after you've had time to reflect - where is the fun in doing it that way? Mind you it would have freed me up to do many other household maintenance jobs and use my S4 to go away with my wife! Edit:- I did try drilling into the soft sheared bolt - sheared off cleanly exactly where the shank changes to the threaded section which was exactly inline with the "lug" that the threaded portion passes through before exiting to where the nut gets screwed onto. While the Audi B8 S4 upright was still on the car, access was tricky, made worse by the fact that this model of car does not have "free to rotate" struts, the front suspension is 4 unequal alloy arms with bonded bushes, so the tendency is for the steering to self centre rapidly when you take you hand off the steering wheel, not very handy/helpful when working on this model of car!! I ended up needing to buy longer drill bits and try to drill through "from the other end" using the sheared off bolt with a pilot hole drilled down through it as a guide - well that did not help me achieve what I needed to so drill wandered off and so my new set of "easi outs" did not get used - my plan was to use "easi outs" instead of normal bolt extractors so that I would be applying an "unscrewing" action to the sheared off part of that bolt, but not getting the holes perfectly in the centre obviously destroyed that plan and an upright!

The mirror surfaces do end being "warmer than ambient" to the touch, I normally only need to use them to demist the mirrors in winter after driving out of a cold garage into milder wet air - or when driving from a colder drier air area into a warmer and wetter air area.

A very old story, I used to have a 1991 VX Cav GSI 16V 2000 4X4 (yes all that was on the rear badging!), heated mirrors only worked when the rear window demister was switched on, so in autumn/winter the mirrors were probably left switched on. Moved onto a new VW Passat 4Motion in 2000, so when autumn came, I just left the heated mirrors switch on thinking the way they operated was the same as in the old VX Cav GSI. Near the end of the first winter, I came across a thread in the world wide Passat forum - folk in USA talking about ending up with burned out mirror heater tapes - oh! Checked the resistance of the mirror heater tapes on my Passat - very very high resistance, oh bother! Bought and fitted new mirrors and from then on used them "sensibly". The high resistance was not from along/through the heater tapes but along the blackened/charred PCBs. I've read somewhere that some Audis had protection against this, ie used a thermal sensor somewhere - but I'm not placing my trust in that as heated mirrors can be a bit expensive.

You've also got to be open to the possibility that it is just a wiring issue, ideally this car needs scanned using a VW Group fully compliant scan tool and start from using what it thinks is wrong. These systems tend to have only a signal/output wire, one for each of the sensors, a Ov which is a single wire coming from the controller branching out into a wire to each sensor and the same with the 12V supply. Factory fitted parking sensors equipped bumpers tend to have mounting plates bonded/welded or sticky taped to the bumper, these mounting plates have clips that the sensor pushes into and locks in place along with, for most models, a soft sealing washer/gasket. You can buy new suitable mounting plates if you break any of them they tend to be in "flat" form for the centre located sensors and "curved" for the outer sensors, though these outers are "sided". On the cost of buying new sensors, these sensors, and there are only a few versions across the VW Group marques, tend to have had their part numbers changed a few times over the years, if you can gain enough knowledge on that, you can usually buy genuine VW Group sensors for a lot lower price, unfortunately as usual, it can down to knowledge or willingness to learn and use it. I started from scratch and ended up after using up quite a lot of time, being able to pick up new sensors for a project for a lot less cash than VW Group sold them for, but as usual, each to their own, how we spend our time and money is up to us. Using or relying on parking sensors possibly reduces your driving capabilities, but I don't mind that, if it saves me touching something then that can't be bad, can it.

Its job is to separate crankcase oil/oil mist from the air being scavenged through the crankcase, it does that by having a cyclonic separator built into it - that causes the oil to drop out of the air, or at least quite a lot of it to drop out, and drop down into the sump instead of getting into the combustion chamber and burning along with the fuel in the cylinders. One thing that it does is effectively cause the fuel mixture to lean back and also to now have a mix of petrol and oil, which has too low an octane rating - and that will cause pinging/pinking - been there and needed to replace the oil separator though I didn't exactly work out what had gone wrong, though possibly the innards were now coked/coated and so not dropping out the oil as well as originally. Edit:- are you hearing pinging/pinking under load, especially at lowish revs?

It is okay to change from having an EFB to AGM in petrol cars, some scan tools with "battery registration" function offer Fleece as an option, so just use that and not AGM where it is also offered, as that is more specialised versions of AGM batteries, typically the AGM version that people retro fit is just "the AGM equivalent of an EFB" - and that is what battery sellers tend to offer as an alternative to EFB.

Which engine does your car have, knowing that might help, my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI which is from the EA211 family of VW Group engines, is currently at 52,000 miles and obviously just over 10 years old, I'm planning on getting the cam belt etc replaced very soon as I think "enough is enough". It might depend on how long you plan to keep this car, ie why wait until just before you hand it in or sell it to pay to get the belt etc replaced when you can "enjoy" hopefully the benefit of not needing to worry about the belt starting to fail - or even worse find it has failed.

Warning:- some versions/ages of this 1.0TSI engine have a single small bolt holding the air cleaner down, not looking for that first, and removing it, will end up with something getting broken.

It just looks like junk, ie small bits of "system rubber" that is sitting on the floor of the strainer, I've tried to get these strainers out of there and found it a bit tricky - so left it in place. "Gulping" the excess fluid out using a new "turkey baster" might work to remove some of that junk and fluid.

I think that it is 4 years for "single Iridium" spark plugs and 6 years for "double Iridium" spark plugs - these EA211 engines tend to get "single Iridium" spark plugs. I changed the spark plugs on our younger daughter's 2019 Arona 1.0TSI 115PS just because they were up visiting us and it was over 4 years old, their VAG Indie had left them in as they don't do many miles per year, but I just felt the need to go with what the car manufacturer recommends.

Reusing old TTY bolts seems to be something that some proper VAG Indies and even main dealers do, not really good enough! Okay on some jobs the cost of using a set of new bolts does cost quite a bit, I know this, but it is the way that VW Group recommend - and probably others where TTY bolts get used.

Hum, I'm guessing that you are expecting that the pinch bolt passes through the hole in that bracket - I would.

You do know that the above link takes everyone that clicks on it, back to this thread?

What you can see from the DVM really depends on how you drive the car, typically I can end up coming to halt at traffic lights after a 10 mile run, and auto stop/start is currently not enabled, I've noticed that if I drive "quietly" this will happen frequently, and if I drive more "aggressively" auto stop/start will always be available at that point in the journey. I've put that down to the car having harvested the stored charge as so it is not in a state to auto stop/start.

Yes, but as my EFB is over 10 years old, unless the journey is more than maybe 20 miles, the "Normal" charging voltage will be closer to the max - which is what it will always be when on the over run. The 2015 6C version of Polo has an earlier version of controller, so the readable data does not look the same as your later car, there is/was a guy on the similar age of Polo to your car on the Polo forum, who tends to post a set of up to date readings regularly - or did. I should grab the current data from that Polo to see if/how it has changed over the past 12 months. I got the feeling that I did manage to "revive" that battery or the charging system by running a battery reg'ng routine using VCDS and changing the serial number - that was a few years ago though. I have an 2011 Audi S4 and when it was 10 years old, I replaced its AGM with a new one, the only reason that I did that was due to that car only being used to travel long distances away from home, so I didn't fancy ending up needing to replace its battery when "away". I was disappointed that I did not see a quick change in data in its battery management controller, but I've not kept a record of any changes/improvements that it has made over the past 4.5 years. Its old AGM battery is kept charged and when tested annually - out of circuit, it shows a very high CCA - which is exactly what you tend to find if testing a new battery out of the car, ie a CCA value of at least 125% of its rated value.

M14 X 1.5 is the version that you want to get. Edit:- sorry that was answered already!

I bought a plastic peg as supplied with some VW Group cars, for adding to all the family VW Group cars that didn't get one in the tool kit, then bought the aluminium version that Audi supply with its biggest/heaviest cars for use in the garage - it was quite cheap to buy from an Audi dealership parts department. I had already bought a plastic one for use in the garage and it is still fit for use.

Yes running/charging voltage characteristics can end up being a bit strange or not what you might have expected, I still have the DVM - cheap plug in type, plugged in permanently in my wife's 2015 Polo, its factory fitted battery is still okay though as should be expected it is dying slowly - having lived 10 years is fine by me, one day it will no longer in fit for that job, hopefully I'll get enough of a warning to avoid a "non start" situation. Auto stop/start still gets enabled quickly if it allow it to.

I ended up fitting a 1/4" drive bit into that screw head and maybe used a couple of screwdrivers to force/wedge it down (against the inside face of the hub) and stay down in the screw head - then used an adjustable spanner tightened as tight as possible, to rotate that 1/4" hex drive bit - that worked. That was on an August 2015 Polo, as said already, these screws are only seized in there by their heads corrosion - once that bond is broken, they are free to move and there will no rust on their threads - by the way, VW Group screws when new have a suitable coating on them to reduce corrosion build up, but like galvanising, that only works for so long especially in that nasty location.

I'm guessing that the "AC operator" is the evaporator - which is where the Fridge system chills the cabin air, that ties in with needing to work behind the dash, or remove it. I'm guessing that is what is wrong with my wife's 2015 VW Polo - but that is just a guess, I really should get it professionally leak/pressure tested instead of thinking the worst!

From checking stored faults before and after main dealership servicing, Audi, SEAT and Volkswagen, I've considered that "diagnostics check included" means if no MIL on then that box gets ticked. "Check for updates" - carried out by service reception person - no customer complaints noted = no point in checking. Admittedly a very down beat take on things, but main dealerships do tend to grind you down quite quickly, which is probably why anyone that can do their own car work does it, and those that can't suck it up - or move to proper garages for getting work done.

I'd think it will come under wear and tear, but how long did you have this car before this started to happen, if soon after buying it, I'd be expecting the seller to sort this out as it indicates a lack of servicing/checking before sale.

Have the brakes ever been serviced/cleaned, if not, that is something that you should get done now. Brake work tends to be "extra work" so can get left out at service time to avoid spending more money I'd think.

Sounds a lot like it could be down to some wrong parts have been fitted to it, even some parts fitted to the wrong side or just 2 of the same part fitted where there should be a RHS and LHS version. I'm sure that the lower arms come in two different lengths to tie in with the longer or shorter road springs. Edit:- so, from where I'm coming from, you really do need to find out what parts you have bought and which side they were fitted to, this shouldn't be happening to someone that works in a garage!