rum4mo

There wasn't an "A" and a "C" in the selling dealership's trade name - was there?

Yes I can hear it now, maybe try placing your hand on the primary(master) cylinder and see if you can "feel" that noise - there will be a switch or switches on the clutch pedal or its bracket - it could be it or one of them, again spray with silicon/PTFE maintenance spray.

Not possible for me to view/listen to video "private". It might just be that the plastic parts or pedal pivot "shells" are causing that noise, maybe try spraying some silicon/PTFE maintenance spray in that area - avoiding getting on the "foot areas" of the pedals. Other than that, it just might be that the clutch action is stiffening up when the car has warmed up - and that is causing the clutch pedal pivots to be getting/seeing a higher than usual load which results in the noises that you are hearing.

I'm surprised that the service tech did not suggest buying a 1 litre top up container of the correct oil from their parts department, it seems like, well at least now and again, even brake fluid is no stocked in 1 litre packaging - as it is only usually bought in in bulk, like the engine oils, for use by the workshop.

I'm guessing that your Roomster has manual AC, so in that case, it sounds like the "hedgehog" resistor pack has failed - but as you also have a noisy fan motor, I'd reckon that it will be drawing more 12V current than normal, and that is bad news for these dropper resistor packs as more current = more heat. So, if I were you, I'd sort out the fan motor first, then once that is running normally - either by cleaning and re-lub'ng its bearings or replacing it completely, then and only then replace the dropper resistor pack. Smelly AC, make sure that the evaporator drain is clear and so still allowing collected water to drain out. As for "does it need re-gassing" - if it is still cooling okay and not making hissing noises when in use, maybe leave re-gassing for later. There will be an optimal gas charge level which provides best cooling for least engine power - but I'd not think that you would notice that too much in terms of fuel usage. Edit:- oh, and pollen filter, is it getting checked annually and replaced as and when necessary - that might affect the general hygiene/smell of the system as well in extreme cases, restricting the flow of air to/through the fan.

At least with VW cars, at some point in time, it was only the bigger cars that got "winter pack" that got "low fluid warning" built in. My wife's 2002 VW Polo with winter pack did not get "low fluid warning nor does her current 2015 VW Polo with winter pack. My personal import 2000 VW Passat 4Motion did get "low fluid warning" as it had Xenon headlights - but as it came from/through a Dutch dealership, or some other reason, the coding was set up wrong, so I needed to buy VCDS to sort that out as my local UK dealer said "tough - it needs a new dashpod, fitting and coding - and that will cost you quite a lot" - well a quick sniff around the internet and buying VCDS had that sorted sharpish without needing to buy any new dashpod - chancers! The cars that ended up with Xenon headlights, do use that low fluid sensor to stop washing the headlights when the washer fluid is getting a bit low - so leaving it for washing the windscreen only.

Probably re-gassing while still under warranty will always be charged for as these "mobile AC systems" do lose some gas across seals and plastic piping - it is expected and allowed while still being able to claim that the system is "leak free", all relative I'm afraid.

I've only done a front wheel bearing on a 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS at around 35,000miles and 8 years old - not good, I think that it was moisture that had got into one side - off side bearing, I just replaced both sides using a cheap China made(probably) kit, but bought Sealey forcing pins - just in case the China made cheapie ones failed. A bit of a worrying job to do, but it worked out fine. On the other hand, I have a "bolt on" front wheel bearing assembly waiting to get fitted to my 2011 Audi S4 - and that car has aluminium knuckles/uprights/hub carriers - so probably a lot more than just unbolting involved there, I must get brave!

Maybe so, but that is the way that my 2011 Audi S4 bonnet struts are fitted - though, as I don't use it much and it sits in the garage with the bonnet up to give the "mouse scarer" its best chance to keep field mice away, but the strut does make a lot of noise when I shut that bonnet down, so your point is relevant.

Fabia still using older "press in" wheel bearing assemblies and not "bolt on wheel bearing assembles" - so not an issue for that exact detail.

Typical the noise will change, get louder or quieter when the ambient temperature changed and maybe even when the fuel level changes. Really just the way it is with electric lift pumps, they are “rubber” mounted to try to reduce this.

I don’t think modern VW Group cars have a replaceable fuel filter after the low pressure lift pump - on petrol engines, now. Edit:- in fact, at least on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, there is no filter where that item used to be located - just in front of the RHS rear wheel.

There will be a mesh screen type of thing in the "pump in tank" assembly, that seems to be good enough with the quality of modern fuels in this general region of the world.

The water pump, or at least the mechanical water pump, is driven by its own small belt so the belt tension/load will be a lot less than one that is driven from the cambelt. It might be, I don't know exactly, that the 1.0TSI having variable timing on both camshafts, needs the newer kit of tools to set up or re-set up the camshafts timing when the cam belt is replaced, and if using that kit, it gets fixed, I think, to the rear side of the engine - and that means removing the water pump. So in that case, I'd expect that fitting a new small water pump belt makes sense and the "rule" on the engine coolant is to dispose of it when it gets removed from an engine. So, that still leaves the water pump, I think that it does cost quite a bit as it gets fitted to the thermostat plastic housing, or maybe now comes with a new thermostat housing - and I can't see that particular plastic moulding surviving any longer than any other similar(ish) VW Group thermostat plastic housings - so maybe there is some logic in getting it replaced at this point as well, that is just my thoughts on that, some will consider it to be overkill, and maybe it is. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS only has variable timing on the inlet camshaft, so I don't think that the official way of replacing its belt involves any re-setting the timing using the later kit of tools, I'll need to find out about that as I'm thinking that at 10 years - only 54,000miles, it is time to get that job done. I've already bought new VW Group G12evo so I plan to replace it also this year, but I need to know if doing that is a waste of new coolant if my local VW Group Indie plans to use the new kit of tools and so will be removing the water pump!

@Adrianul , are you still there, if so have you solved this problem?

It does sound a lot like your temperature flap motor has a "dirty" positional feedback track - which is what demanding Hi and then Lo many many times can clean up enough for it to work for "some time". So, replacing that flap motor assembly will be the best way to sort this out, though maybe you can put up with repeating this "cleaning procedure" as and when it does carried out. Only demanding Hi > Lo once, in my experience, is not really doing enough to provide a longish fix, put the extra time and effort in and the end result might be good enough for you. Edit:- when the flap motor went this way on my previous car, a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion, I did get it working again a few times over the following year, but, it failed again during a long motorway trip on a hot summer's day, and that ending up meaning that we had to stop at services and open up the car to let the cabin cool down! That was enough to force me to fit the new flap motor that I had bought, and that sorted that issue out!

OP, as you are planning on replacing the original tyres at the 3 years mark, then changing over to Michelins is fine as Michelin, at least full winter tyres Alpins, can last a very long time, the Michelin Alpin tyres on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI were first bought new in October 2015 and so were probably manufactured in 2014, 54,000/2 miles later - and I have not removed them yet, and wear wise they should last another 2 or 3 years - garage is always garaged when not being used so no signs of cracking yet, but the compound will have firmed up a bit so not quite so grippy. I hadn't considered their possible lifetime when I bought them, for us, using 2 cars, it would have made more sense to have bought cheaper - ie "lower expected mileage" winter tyres - maybe next time. So I'd think that the same applies to buying all season tyres.

I'd think that you could add 9 or 10 years onto the date that you got the cambelt replaced before you "feel the need". Edit:- this post was probably written badly, what I was intending to say was, that you should not feel the need to consider getting this second cambelt for 9 or 10 years after it was fitted.

The trouble I feel is, many many people will have had small VW Group cars from earlier times when 4 or 5 years was the advice and felt the need to take that advice onboard after hearing bad tales of idler pulley failures leading to big engine repair bills, I certainly looked after my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V BBY engine, and taking what sounded like sensible precautions worked for me and so for her car we paid for 2 "belt" changes, I advised my older daughter to do the same with her 2009 SEAT Ibiza SC 1.4 16V. I examine the cambelt at every service and have done since it was 3 years old, but I'm thinking that 10 years is maybe enough and I'll aim to get the belt changed later this year. Being realistic, I'd expect that we will move this car on when it is 15 years old, so if I get the cam belt replaced, I'll have had some benefit from doing that work. I'm just trying to minimise risk while not "scattering" cash. You rightly feel sore about being con'd into changing that belt at the 5 years point, but you should not now feel the need to revisit this area for the rest of the time that you have already suggested/hinted that your wife will keep this car. Just different situations for different owners, my suggestion was aimed at a new owner of a used car.

It might be a good time to think about replacing the cam belt.

Quote:- For information, there are 2 types of injectors for our 1.2 tsi 110, so it is essential to take original kits. Yes, I've just checked the parts listing cat, there have been a few changes for parts being superseded as well as a choice of 2 "repair kits" depending on which of the 3 versions of injectors fitted to the car's part numbers - and then now a later part number of injector that might not even have any "repair kits" listed for use with that latest version of injector, a bit of mess. I'm sure that the parts cat will get sorted out some time!

Yes, finding that you haven't ended up being fully in control of what was changed, is not good, maybe report this to OBDeleven - I'd expect that they have a public forum for their users, reporting it as well directly to them, might make them jump - or be able to let you know why this could have happened.

I wouldn’t worry about the vendor and serial numbers changing as this shouldn’t affect anything other than let the car’s systems know that the battery has been replaced plus you managed to update the new battery capacity. I only use VCDS for making changes, it tends to be a trusted diagnostic tool. Carista I keep in our cars just for basic use while away from home.

Getting a full car controllers scan with a VW Group compliant tool, might have been the smarter first move, gives you a better idea of what the problem is or what the car is seeing the source of the problem is. Okay, I'd have expected it to be an ABS sensor - but in your case that assumption has not worked. Edit:- you will probably need to drive the car a short distance to clear the faults, although some will still remain until cleared using a scan tool, but should not now affect the car.

I think/thought that there is meant to be a sort of "one way valve" - a very loose bit of description, but maybe one of these typical split nipple things, over the end of that drain, edit:- maybe to limit the engine bay fumes from getting into the cabin air. Or maybe you removed it before taking that picture. There used to be tales about that "thing" being fitted badly/incorrectly and so stopping or limiting the condensate from draining out and away.