rum4mo

Yes, plus VCDS and some other can talk to all the smart controllers - and there are quite a few in the typical VW Group car, so that tends to mean that they cover "everything" .

As per PetrolDave's posting, when you think about it, if a fault code is logged due to a "hard" fault ie one that is still present, then no scan tool can get rid of it showing up, yes it will get cleared - but only for as long as it takes for that controller to re-check the system, intermittent faults after being logged and no longer valid can be cleared and will only appear again when that fault next "happens", some lower levels on modern cars just get cleared, as far as dash warning lights are concerned, after maybe 10 engine starts with no repeat of that fault, some others even vanish with time - which can be annoying if your car is still under warranty and you don't have time to drop everything and get the dealer to check your car! Edit:- oh, another vote for VCDS if you serious/keen enough, I've had it almost from the beginning - well either late 2001 or early 2002.

The battery certainly needs to be healthy and charged, so in the first place re-charge the battery and see if this sorts things out. Edit:- can you work out why the battery has become discharged or low in charge, for instance low car usage or frequent short journeys? Another Edit:- at 10 years old, it might still have its original battery, and depending on how you have been using this car, that battery might now be "past its best" - but really once re-charged, get it tested before replacing it. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI still has its original battery but that car has run over 54,000 miles and its battery got "looked after" during lockdown, so it is still showing good enough health - though 10 years is good enough for an EFB, so it will be getting replaced "soon".

I think that all VW Group workshops replace all the 5 inlet manifold screws, so I bought a set of them along with 4 inlet seals and 4 fuel rail securing bolts. I'm planning on checking these bolts when I eventually get round to replacing the G13 coolant with G12evo. As my wife's car slightly pre-dates this mess up, and not smelling of petrol, I'm just going to check all the fuel rail bolts for tightness for my own peace of mind. You might have to make up some tool to remove and fit the injector support elements - okay the removing doesn't matter too much if you are replacing them with new ones, but maybe that type of tool is needed to successfully fit the new ones - I haven't worked that out. Also a good time to take pictures of the 4 inlet ports/valves areas wrt "carbon junk accumulating" - for reference and for other forum users interest, I plan to include doing that. My wife's August 2015 Polo is at 54,000 miles.

I've spotted them in my local Audi emporium, typically sitting on a front wiper arm. I suppose these "comfort indicators" mainly do do what they set out to, ie give you a vague idea of "how things are" - ie "your charger is still working okay" or where a charger is not fitted "your battery has still got enough charge to stay healthy". I've never considered buying any of that item, only having 2 cars and enough chargers to cover re-charging batteries has always worked for me, but in car showrooms they maybe save a bit of time - if they work.

Hopefully just some other issue than the high pressure fuel rail issue, and hopefully you find it before it causes any issues under the bonnet while being driven.

A friend with a just under 2 year sold Ford Kuga, which has an ELB+ doesn't use that car too often, so it has been back to Ford a couple of times for a battery check/charge - it is a personal purchase contract thing car so he feels that Ford should just re-charge/fix the battery, although I have been saying "get a smart charger on it every 2 months if for no other reason than to keep it in a "fit state to avoid any inconvenience". So, their annual trip to France is happening soon, he became fed up with warnings of low power availability for 12V DC stuff in the car, so finally charged the battery using his smart charger (NOCO) - charger quickly reaches the green/good LED stage, but if a door is opened it immediately reverts to an indicated very low initial state of charge. After stopping charged from an indicated fully charged stage, and waiting 2 hours, the PD across the battery is 12.12V, I said that even although the car starts okay, still limiting auxiliary 12V DC use, I'd be less than happy about driving it a 1000 miles or so to reach my holiday destination. So, eventually he went along to Ford, "battery, if found to be degraded due to lack of regular use, will need replacing and is now not covered by warranty", today it goes in for another boost charge/investigation, I think that in his case, as a former car buyer and fixer/maintainer, the shift to one of these lease/buy schemes has switched him into a "clean hands all car stuff is included" frame of mind, which with his abilities and knowledge, has let him down! Edit:- I tend to have a couple of CT5s, first one is "TEST and CHARGE" version ie MSX5- possibly not my best buy as the "Test" functionality is a bit limited as even with a new/good/charged battery, when the engine is cranked, the resulting voltage JUST stays within that unit's operating range - any slight weakness in a battery results with it switching off due to the resulting battery voltage when cranking! A basic CT5 bought after I lost confidence in the first one's ability to remain operating as intended, it tended to revert to "min safe voltage" state too often with both cars, so of that was due to it not being able to remember its "last set charging option" as claimed by the operators handbook - now if I need to use, I always select the mode I need even although it is always the same mode. Also have a CTEK Battery Analyser, that woks well, and for using when messing with VCDS, a CTEK PRO25S charger/maintainer/supply.

Your car is the "correct" age for possible "high pressure fuel rail securing bolts" issue, but I would have thought that once that started it would develop into a serious leak quickly. What is causing the damp area on the top of the radiator?

My local "good" independent place guy just mumbled something about the valve hole being a mess, so I think that when and if he added any sealant, it would be to a crusty hole - no cleaning/preparation getting done then and a dollop of sealer on the valve before yanking it through. I think that that place is now just my nearest tyre place, no more, matching beating others on tyre prices and good service used to be their game, now it is just mainly car servicing, just is life! Seeing as you have mentioned rims, a friend's wife has a maybe 2009ish Micra, one wheel started to lose air slowly but intermittently, in a sort of "its okay" for a month, then needed a bit of air, then complete deflation so handed the wheel into a tyre chain place, rim resealed now it should be okay, that worked for a few months then same again, "all good" turning to complete deflation overnight! Time for another visit and this time "wheel rusted through at a lot of points at the weld down the rim centre line" so he drove back along and sure enough "game over" for that steel wheel, getting a replacement for that Micra was not too easy either, now he is waiting for the next wheel to go the same way. Quite unusual that I think, or at least I've never heard of that happening to a steel wheel in the past. Edit:- I attempted to get some rubber grease into the area around the valve, just as a feeble attempt to keep salty winter water away from these areas.

One thing about powder coating, the points where the assembly gets "hung up" never gets coated in my experience of getting alloy wheels powder coated, so make sure that you examine it when you get it back and add protection to that/these points - the same for an least Lesjofors road springs, I sorted that out before fitting them. The annoying thing about that with alloy wheels is, they are typically hung up with hooks passing through the valve holes - so you can end up with leaking valve areas! I've had a set of 4 used alloys powder coated for use as winter wheels, they all failed at the valve areas starting at maybe the 4 or 5 year point in time, so, to beat that and provide myself with a winter spare wheel, I bought a used 5th wheel, that meant that I handed in 4 wheels with tyres and a single 5th wheel - tyre to get bought later. That was when my suspicions wrt what the root cause for the leaks were found to be true, so that 5th wheel ended up getting the still stripped back to alloy slot/groove painted before getting a tyre fitted to it. Now 2 winters later, the first tyre is losing pressure very slowly, if the valve area fails a "bubble test", I'll get the tyre off, then I'll tidy up the valve area and then get the tyre back on - instead of asking my local tyre place to check/clean the area and fit a new valve along with sealant - which never worked in the past!

The new car market is still not in a good state for finding a new ICE car or maybe even for finding a "good" slightly used ICE car. I'd find it very difficult to find a small engined car that has a "trustworthy" engine, so my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT was treated to a complete suspension rebuild last to minimise the possibility of ended up with a broken spring at an awkward moment(been there done that too many times in the past. So replacing that car remains a distant task hopefully and I'd think that it will be replaced with a small EV. My 2011 Audi S4 6MT was bought in 2013 to replace a 13 year old "bought new 2000 VW Passat 4Motion" and I wanted to grab a 6MT S4 while lowish age/mileage ones were still available - I have not yet faced up to what happens or gets bought after its time is up! We don't really need 2 cars either as we are both retired, but as said "you can't take it with you" so in retirement why not continue with 2 cars - means that the Audi S4 mileage is disgracefully(for some) low, but each of our cars have different uses, so I'm okay with that. I do admit that eventually we will only be running a single car and it does look a lot like it will be an EV - or a slightly used last of the bigger engined VW Golfs, or an Audi S3 4 door, I'm stuck in the "I prefer a saloon" mode. Front dampers leaking, especially LHS front ones, and especially the ones with electronic control - a well known VW Group trait, if indeed they are DDC then they will be Monroe and new Monroe ones are available at what seems to be sensible prices - well very sensible when compared with VW Group prices for VW Group "overbranded" same Monroe items. I've found changing cars can be a horrible experience, for me selling on my bought slightly used 1991 Vauxhall Cavalier GSI 4X4 in 2000 for a factory ordered imported new VW Passat 4Motion was not the "improvement" I had anticipated, that GSI 4X4 had been just too good for what I wanted from a car, getting the 2011 Audi S4 did bring the "improvement" I had anticipated as it was just as "good" as the Cav GSI 4X4 with lots of added enjoyment. Same really for my wife's car changings chosen by me, going from an ex channel islands 6 months old 1992 Fiesta 1.1 Ghia to a slightly used 1995 Fiesta 1.6Si with the Zetec engine - good move, then going from that to a factory order imported 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V 75PS - not a good move - heated seats and electric sunroof and a drop of 15PS in a heavier car was never going to work for her - or me, going from that to a factory ordered 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110 6MT was an excellent move!

"easymanuals" have worked for me in the past especially when you order well into the production life - or beyond it - so that any errors/updates have been incorp'd into what is just really a copy of what VW Group offers to the trade who are out with the VW Group service umbrella. As you get "everything" that means all engine/gearbox options and maybe even "early" and "late" car coverage, I've always just saved everything, then also created a folder for my exact age and model of car - to save any future faffing around for correct info. Edit:- I'd think that "CHY" is the family or section of that engine family that your engine comes from, and CHYB is the actual model/version of your engine that is in your car - have you checked the engine for labels, probably printed paper labels that define the exact version, serial number, engine build plant and date of build. I've always made a point of asking my local VW Group marque's parts department for a print out of CAR DATA for each of our family cars, and that is very helpful later down the line.

Might be an issue with the sensor that protects the evaporator, forgotten its name, or there is enough moisture in the fridge gas to cause small pellets of ice to form which will block the flow of liquid/gas - until the system has been switched off for a short period of time, then liquid/gas flow is restored as the ice pellets have "gone".

If you are dead set on using ECP, maybe use their online contact thing to ask if they DO stock suitable front struts and springs - and maybe top mounts and top bearings for your car. Doing that might save you a lot of annoyance further down the line. Some of their front desk staff are interested in car stuff (mainly non UK nationals), but some (mainly UK nationals) are just “doing a job” - same for their managers. I tend to do a lot of homework before collecting parts from ECP as I’ve fallen the “wrong parts” before. So that means checking aftermarket manufacturers web cats and only leaving your ECP branch if the numbers on the boxes match your online findings.

Well the running gear which this is part of tends to be common across the VW Group marques for car of the same "size" and age, which makes sense cost wise. I was just trying to encourage you into completing this task and seeing how the new rear brakes settle down after a couple of days use, before trying to get access to the cable adjusting point. I'm sure it will be a bit messy to get into, my wife's 2015 Polo also has an arm rest, but I've not looked into how to get to the handbrake cable adjuster simply because after replacing a single rear calliper, both rear discs and pads, everything is good. I'll try to remember not to bother handing you out any "half help" advice in the future.

I'd be surprised if, at the end of this repair, you actually do need to adjust the handbrake cable. I've replaced the offside rear calliper. both discs and pads, and I didn't expect to need to adjust the handbrake cable - and as it turned out I didn't need to. That was on a 2015 VW Polo. I know that at least some VW Group cars of this size, ended up with getting re-work done on the handbrake, my younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS 6MT, seems to have had this re-work carried out twice by a SEAT main dealership! Even after that rectification, the general "feel" of the handbrake action is not "too good"!

Good result (hopefully) as long as they fit the same "size" of new battery either a VW Group branded Varta or another brand that you can trust, and code it into the car. Going forward, how to get a "good" service life out of a car starter battery?:- a lot will ultimately depend on how you use the car, as in frequency of use and length of journeys. Maybe get a proper safe smart charger/maintainer and use that as and when you feel the need to. I have a Feb 2011 Audi S4 which I don't use on short journeys if possible, I bought a CTEK smart charger to try to make life better for that battery, it was a VW Group branded Varta AGM, it never ever caused me any problems, that car does not have auto stop/start by the way, at the 10 years point, I thought that I had better replace it rather than have to suffer a battery failure due to old age, when away from home, so I replaced it with a Bosch AGM same size, still fit the CTEK now and again if that car is not being used. The original battery is still in my garage, is still being "topped up" every two months and it still, when out of circuit tests as being quite fit. My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, with an EFB battery, during Covid I bought a second CTEK(overkill/scatter cash) and made sure it was kept topped up. That car is now at just over 54,000 miles, is used frequently, and its battery still tests okay, auto stop/start still operates if/when I allow it to - the only exemption to that is after a steady dual carriageway, ie no "zooming and braking" it can end up harvesting the battery and so when I arrive at a complex set of traffic lights that have just gone to red, I enable auto stop/start - but it is not available, very annoying watching the extremely "good" average fuel economy slowly drop back a bit! Smart charging is quite good, but could be better so that the situation I outlined does not happen, I know how to avoid it - ie just drive a bit more aggressively just avoiding getting into an accident - but why bother doing that. It's replacement battery, an AGM Bosch, bought in a panic move just before Brexit - when Costco had a good deal running, unfortunately has not been required yet - I'm hoping to off load that into older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra - but younger generation are not up for spending until after "the event", so her Exide EFB dies slowly but still gets the car started!

I'd think that your Skoda sales person will be your point of contact, he might/should be able to find out which car carrier that individual car is scheduled to be loaded onto, and a rough idea of its sailing time and route. Then, it is off to a website like "marine movements" or one with a similar name, to track the movement of that car carrier. This used to be a "jolly" game to play when you knew that your ordered car was "on its way" - my experience, unfortunately was not too good, my wife's 2015 VW Polo was coming in from South Africa as that was where VW were building RHD Polos at that time, I spent a lot of time looking for the "big" car carriers that looked like they were heading for this area of Europe - and failed, I had been looking for it going round the Horn - wrong it must have gone via the Suez canal! It was near Holland by the time I caught up with it, a complete failure on my part - then eventually spotted it in our dealer's car compound but no one knew anything about it as our sales person was holiday - oh well, at least I tried!

One late comment I'll make here, I'd never ever fit a crimp joining piece within the area of this wiring that gets flexing when the hatch is being opened - that might just be what caused the pipe to separate at that point, always make two repairs to any wires that get damaged for broken within that flexing area, one within the car's body and another within the hatch body. Also fitting a general purpose "crimp joining piece" is just being very lazy, there are better ways to effect a wiring repair so that the repair lasts long enough.

The original plan was just to provide a means a flatten the beam when driving "on the other side of the road", any built in levers etc were only for intermittent use, a car built for sale in a RHD territory will have a completely different headlamps part number to those built for sale in a LHD sales territory. Plus there will also be an issue with the rear fog light - I'd think.

I keep repeating what I did to locate a broken wire the first time, maybe on a 1978 Ford Fiesta, manipulate the rubber bellows between two fingers, typically, a broken cable will not remain "flat" at the broken ends, ie it will "turn up" a bit due to getting distorted by the repeated opening on the rear hatch - so if you are lucky you should feel this through the rubber bellows - either way, when you open up the hatch and the roof lining, you should be able to pull a wire back, make sure that when you splice in an extra length of wire to repair this, one join remains within the car body side of this bellows area and the other end remains within the hatch area - so that further flexing does not damage your repair at the joining points.

Even getting that done would mean paying 0.5 hour labour, or maybe even 1.0 hour labour if the workshop couldn't work on "parts" of an hour, in official UK VW Group workshops the labour rate can get up to £200+ an hour - location location etc. I might even have read on the official VW Group workshop manuals that the recommendation is to "crack" the wheel bolts with a breaker bar before spinning them off using a buzz gun, same when refitting them. Every time I hand my cars in for serious repair work, I replace the locking wheel bolts with normal ones - oh, and when getting tyres repaired/replaced, I always hand in wheels - doing that can save these locking bolts - and more!

But, unless the OP was lucky enough/flucky to get the same "key code", he'd still be stuck without any way to remove these existing security codes - so the cost of doing that to 4 wheel bolts would need to be factored in.

Remember that these are Magard items, but bespoke to car manufacturers, you can extend your ebay search beyond Skoda if it helps - ie all VW Group marques that use that wheel bolt size, use the common series of "lock bolts". I'm sure that Vauxhall and some others also use them, but they seem to have a different system of identifying them, from memory the spare one that I bought for my 2011 S4 is actually a "Vauxhall" one by the lettering/numbering used to identify it. The spare that I bought for the 2015 VW Polo is a VAG equivalent one by way of its identifying letter/number. Curious (maybe) fact, the security bolts on my 2011 Audi S4 have the same identifying letter as the security bolts on my wife's 2015 VW Polo - but are obviously from different series as they are completely different! Bottom line, matching by way of a picture must be the way to go - but it might be helpful to expand your search beyond VAG.

Depending on age, it might just be an O-ring seal that is leaking on the oil separator - but that was an issue with Polo/Ibiza at least back in 2009, so I'd hope that it has become a repeat issue with much newer cars. Bonded rubber mounts on rear of Citigo I can't comment on, typically it is the rear mounting on the lower front arms that causes problems with many VW Group cars.