rum4mo

The water pump, or at least the mechanical water pump, is driven by its own small belt so the belt tension/load will be a lot less than one that is driven from the cambelt. It might be, I don't know exactly, that the 1.0TSI having variable timing on both camshafts, needs the newer kit of tools to set up or re-set up the camshafts timing when the cam belt is replaced, and if using that kit, it gets fixed, I think, to the rear side of the engine - and that means removing the water pump. So in that case, I'd expect that fitting a new small water pump belt makes sense and the "rule" on the engine coolant is to dispose of it when it gets removed from an engine. So, that still leaves the water pump, I think that it does cost quite a bit as it gets fitted to the thermostat plastic housing, or maybe now comes with a new thermostat housing - and I can't see that particular plastic moulding surviving any longer than any other similar(ish) VW Group thermostat plastic housings - so maybe there is some logic in getting it replaced at this point as well, that is just my thoughts on that, some will consider it to be overkill, and maybe it is. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS only has variable timing on the inlet camshaft, so I don't think that the official way of replacing its belt involves any re-setting the timing using the later kit of tools, I'll need to find out about that as I'm thinking that at 10 years - only 54,000miles, it is time to get that job done. I've already bought new VW Group G12evo so I plan to replace it also this year, but I need to know if doing that is a waste of new coolant if my local VW Group Indie plans to use the new kit of tools and so will be removing the water pump!

@Adrianul , are you still there, if so have you solved this problem?

It does sound a lot like your temperature flap motor has a "dirty" positional feedback track - which is what demanding Hi and then Lo many many times can clean up enough for it to work for "some time". So, replacing that flap motor assembly will be the best way to sort this out, though maybe you can put up with repeating this "cleaning procedure" as and when it does carried out. Only demanding Hi > Lo once, in my experience, is not really doing enough to provide a longish fix, put the extra time and effort in and the end result might be good enough for you. Edit:- when the flap motor went this way on my previous car, a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion, I did get it working again a few times over the following year, but, it failed again during a long motorway trip on a hot summer's day, and that ending up meaning that we had to stop at services and open up the car to let the cabin cool down! That was enough to force me to fit the new flap motor that I had bought, and that sorted that issue out!

OP, as you are planning on replacing the original tyres at the 3 years mark, then changing over to Michelins is fine as Michelin, at least full winter tyres Alpins, can last a very long time, the Michelin Alpin tyres on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI were first bought new in October 2015 and so were probably manufactured in 2014, 54,000/2 miles later - and I have not removed them yet, and wear wise they should last another 2 or 3 years - garage is always garaged when not being used so no signs of cracking yet, but the compound will have firmed up a bit so not quite so grippy. I hadn't considered their possible lifetime when I bought them, for us, using 2 cars, it would have made more sense to have bought cheaper - ie "lower expected mileage" winter tyres - maybe next time. So I'd think that the same applies to buying all season tyres.

I'd think that you could add 9 or 10 years onto the date that you got the cambelt replaced before you "feel the need". Edit:- this post was probably written badly, what I was intending to say was, that you should not feel the need to consider getting this second cambelt for 9 or 10 years after it was fitted.

The trouble I feel is, many many people will have had small VW Group cars from earlier times when 4 or 5 years was the advice and felt the need to take that advice onboard after hearing bad tales of idler pulley failures leading to big engine repair bills, I certainly looked after my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V BBY engine, and taking what sounded like sensible precautions worked for me and so for her car we paid for 2 "belt" changes, I advised my older daughter to do the same with her 2009 SEAT Ibiza SC 1.4 16V. I examine the cambelt at every service and have done since it was 3 years old, but I'm thinking that 10 years is maybe enough and I'll aim to get the belt changed later this year. Being realistic, I'd expect that we will move this car on when it is 15 years old, so if I get the cam belt replaced, I'll have had some benefit from doing that work. I'm just trying to minimise risk while not "scattering" cash. You rightly feel sore about being con'd into changing that belt at the 5 years point, but you should not now feel the need to revisit this area for the rest of the time that you have already suggested/hinted that your wife will keep this car. Just different situations for different owners, my suggestion was aimed at a new owner of a used car.

It might be a good time to think about replacing the cam belt.

Quote:- For information, there are 2 types of injectors for our 1.2 tsi 110, so it is essential to take original kits. Yes, I've just checked the parts listing cat, there have been a few changes for parts being superseded as well as a choice of 2 "repair kits" depending on which of the 3 versions of injectors fitted to the car's part numbers - and then now a later part number of injector that might not even have any "repair kits" listed for use with that latest version of injector, a bit of mess. I'm sure that the parts cat will get sorted out some time!

Yes, finding that you haven't ended up being fully in control of what was changed, is not good, maybe report this to OBDeleven - I'd expect that they have a public forum for their users, reporting it as well directly to them, might make them jump - or be able to let you know why this could have happened.

I wouldn’t worry about the vendor and serial numbers changing as this shouldn’t affect anything other than let the car’s systems know that the battery has been replaced plus you managed to update the new battery capacity. I only use VCDS for making changes, it tends to be a trusted diagnostic tool. Carista I keep in our cars just for basic use while away from home.

Getting a full car controllers scan with a VW Group compliant tool, might have been the smarter first move, gives you a better idea of what the problem is or what the car is seeing the source of the problem is. Okay, I'd have expected it to be an ABS sensor - but in your case that assumption has not worked. Edit:- you will probably need to drive the car a short distance to clear the faults, although some will still remain until cleared using a scan tool, but should not now affect the car.

I think/thought that there is meant to be a sort of "one way valve" - a very loose bit of description, but maybe one of these typical split nipple things, over the end of that drain, edit:- maybe to limit the engine bay fumes from getting into the cabin air. Or maybe you removed it before taking that picture. There used to be tales about that "thing" being fitted badly/incorrectly and so stopping or limiting the condensate from draining out and away.

There is a taper/bowled/lead-in section at the end of the contact tube, so I think the intention is to run a ring of "stuff" in/round that depression, when you remove the spark plugs, you tend to find very slight traces of that stuff at the lower end of the ceramic - that, I think, is where I got the original stuff along with on the end of the contact tube, and redistributed it back around/inside that area of the contact tube - for reuse, until I eventually got round to buying the Prematex.

Or an older VW Passat 4Motion or similar Skoda Superb like round about 2000 - the ones based around B5 Audi A4. Finding one with not too much rust might be an issue

I have not checked the price of that, but as usual "special" greases etc do tend to be priced quite high by VAG UK or maybe even VW Group AG. Stops the riff raff from getting ideas? Edit:- I've gone and added a comment to my last posting - again!

After making my last posting on this topic, I went looking for the "stuff" that the youtuber used, and put it on my ebay watch list - then went back to check it closely, it is Liquid Moly's offering for use on injectors and glow plugs - from that intended use I'm guessing that it is a high temperature anti seize paste for use on metal-metal threaded parts so that removing them can be a bit more predictable/possible/easy. So, now I'll remove that from my "might buy for this job" as it might not "agree" with the plastic/rubber contact extension's body and that would be counterproductive next time round. It was Permatex ignition grease that I bought and used, it has now gone into hiding in my "organised" garage - I must sort that out and return it to where it should have been stored - or buy in another small tube of it! Edit:- also showing people how to use a ratchet and/or torque wrench single handed is not being too clever, better if he used a stand for his camera so that proper ways of using tools could be employed.

I'll own up to being a bit stupid/trying to do the right thing, and bought a small tube of a "bespoke" dielectric grease for doing that job (for tuning up ignition systems!) ! My 20 years old tube of "expired by use date" from work, that I use on the front calliper guide bolts would probably done the job just as well. Just one thing, first time round, I "recovered" as much as possible of the grease from the old plug and each extension contact, and re-applied it on the correct areas. That original grease was white in colour - maybe that colouring is added in to improve quality inspection on the assembly line - ie visibility - or maybe something more important, I don't know. I could see me buying tube of that Silverhook silicon grease when my current old tube refuses to part with any more grease, I think Toolstation or Screwfix sell it.

Just an observation, the puller tool that the OP posted the Amazon link for, has been assembled correctly, the asttools.co.uk tool the guy on the video used has the "finger grip" bar fitted up side down. Edit:- someone once mentioned stuffing compressed down the extension contact to convince it to give up its grip, I've done that job only 3 times and so far so good - ie no issues with lifting the coils up.

The only Torsen controlled VW Group 4X4 are the ones with North<>South engine installations. So that means all East<>West, or transverse engined VW Group cars are Haldex controlled.

I've just had a look under the bonnet of my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and it has stayed a lot "drier" than your car - in that area, I did not remove that charge pipe when I replaced the spark plugs 2 years ago, so maybe this weeping has slowed down since I last replaced these O-ring seals back in 2019!. There is an O-ring sealing washer at both ends of that charge pipe, and the official instruction in the workshop manual is renew them after removing the charge pipe. The VW Group P/Ns are WHT 001 386 and WHT 003 247

I think that that is as good as it gets with some of these 1.2TSI 16V engines, my wife's 2015 Polo was clean down there - that is the throttle body - or throttle valve, and it is the oil mist in the turbo output that is weeping out at that point, until I removed that pipe to replace the spark plugs at the 4 years service point in its life, since then, that area has remained damp with oil. Edit:- I did fit a new O-ring washer! My thoughts are, as road salt chunks can end up being thrown into that area, you can get corrosion forming on the aluminium top of the throttle body, and usually that corrosion can track down over the face of where the sealing O-ring is located, so game over from then on. I've scrubbed that area once to try to stop that oil mist weeping out at that area, but it still escapes. On that 2015 Polo, there is not much in the way of engine oil reaching that area, when you take that plastic charge pipe off, you should only ever see a few drops of oil dripping out - any more than that and there is a problem somewhere. Looking back, maybe I did not need to remove that charge pipe to get the coil of maybe cylinder 4, and if so, maybe oil would never have started leaking from there - very annoying!

Maybe a worthless post on your question, but I've done that job on a 2015 VW Polo - and also needed to replace the black frame and cover! The repeater lens is a complete assembly with the repeater inside it, easy enough to replace and not too expensive. I'd think that you will be able to find "how to do it" using Google, if not for Fabia I'd think that there will be one for same age Polo with not much difference. Sorry not an exact answer, but maybe something to work on.

I had this issue with a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V, at that point in time, there had been issues with a few cars, typically cars with the 1.4 16V petrol engine, the root cause ended up being an error or issue with the coding of the BCM (Body Control Module), that is the controller that forces power users to sleep when the engine is switched off - and many other functions. Getting a SEAT dealership to accept what I had worked out it must be, was tricky as visibility of this issue, by 2016/2017 had been lost at dealership level, so a request for help to locate the patch was lodged by my second SEAT dealership to SEAT mothership - that sorted out that problem. Before you try chasing that down, maybe disconnect the alternator output lead and insulate it, just in case your problem is a leaky rectifier stack - or other alternator issues. Many many other possible wiring issues or component issues can also cause this sort of thing, it seems that any electrical noise within the car wiring, will tend to wake up sleeping controllers even if the BCM S/W is okay. I know how annoying it can get when going out to the car after 3 or 4 days and not knowing if it will start, I was lucky as it was a spare car at the time, but it was still blinking annoying and I couldn't just live with it! That second SEAT dealership had just had to sort out a similar aged VW Polo 1.4 16V with that issue - which was lucky for me otherwise I might have had to give up on it!

Oil filler caps going stiff, yes, typical, usually the sealing washer has gone hard - possibly can't buy new sealing washers by themselves nowadays. Dip sticks also can be a part that get stiff too quickly, the 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra that my older daughter has owned from new - when I changed the oil last year, one of the 2 clips/grips on the dip stick broke off and escaped so that is that. On her early 2002 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 8V, it was the orange dip stick tube that deformed with age - went from round to oval, so that needed changing to make removing the dip stick an easyish task. I never had that issue with my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V which looked slightly similar in that area - maybe SEAT sourced local (Spain) parts that were not quite good enough, though I don't know which marque controlled the engine plant for that old engine in Ibiza, possibly VW in Germany but that is just a guess.

Moody Blues, yes they are okay, wife probably still worships them or their past output.