rum4mo

Good find! There are a couple of part numbers depending on which PR code your car has:- For PR TP1 the p/n is 04E 133 723 CN For PR TL1 the p/n is 04E 133 723 CP which has been superseded by 04E 133 723 GN in 2023 Now, this is when my usual advice to get hold of a copy of your car's "CAR DATA" from a, in your case, Skoda dealership, is worth having, as it would make it clear which PR code is relevant for your car - what the differences are between them both I can't say. One other thing, you are possibly lucky, as the version of that delivery pipe fitted to my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and so age Fabia and Ibiza etc, is almost twice the price of the one fitted to later cars regardless of the PR code! Or, is this cheapness/cost reduction the reason why your delivery pipe has failed? (maybe not related in any way, but it does make me wonder as the price has been halved when it has been revised for later engines only. Edit:- by the way, the diagram shows the same sort of design for both delivery pipes and they are "one piece" from the RHS of the bonnet area to where they terminate on the HP fuel pump - using constant tension metal clip, p/n "N 910 203 01 Spring Band Clamp 14.5 X 12" BTW, did you need to remove the HP fuel pump - as your guide suggested?

Take one off if the wheels are factory fit version, you'll find a part number on the underside of the centre cap - stuff that into ebay etc and wait until sensible priced items appear, warning, main dealership can sometimes be cheaper than eBay! What really really annoyed me a week or so ago was, my wife's 2015 VW Polo ended up with a puncture, so I took the wheel off, dumped it in my car and dropped it off to get the puncture repaired - like a complete fool, I forgot to use the wooden handle of a hammer to knock the centre cap out before handing it over! Well that job got done and the wheel was collected, but when I refitted it to the car I noticed that some "clever" tyre fitter had used a screwdriver to lever the centre cap out from the front of the alloy wheel - very annoying and unnecessary, surely they could have knocked it out from the rear and so leaving no damage to the alloy wheel or centre cap! The plastic with maybe some metal content centre caps on that car's winter wheels are now showing signs of "white (corrosion) worm" - but they are 10 years old, I'll see what they look like after next winter and maybe look out for a set of 4 new centre caps - if any appear at an acceptable price on eBay.

There is a way to introduce a "series" current measuring device without "wakening" these cars up, just clamp one side of a DMM set on current measurement to the local body earth using a crock clip, have a long sharp probe on the other "side" of the DMM and pass it down onto the battery earth post, now slacken off the earth clamp and lift it up "over" the long sharp tipped probe - obviously you need to wait 20 or 30 minutes after switching the car off or opening any "openings" before doing this to allow the controller to go to sleep.

Correct, even with any of all "openings" left open. Well that is or was my findings covering a 2009 SEAT Ibiza, 2011 Audi S4 and 2015 VW Polo - and in VW Group land, I'd think that "one size fits all" in this respect.

On the topic of using the correct tool kit, I'd not think that it will be worthwhile to start this job before you have this Gen2 kit for 72mm bearings.

Well I've had that on a 2000 VW Passat 4Motion - it has a heavy front end, when it was maybe 8 years old and so maybe 60,000 miles, then, we've had that on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - which probably has a heavy-ish front end, when it was only 7 or 8 years old (forgotten) and so roughly 35,000 miles - that Polo's (French made) front off side wheel bearing look like it had suffered from water ingress which had made it noisy. Initially, in the November, I only noticed it when the winter tyres were on and only when driving in a certain area, plan "A" was, "it is just that road surface combined with the winter tyres, then it changed to appearing while driving in all areas, waited until I changed back to summer tyres - it was still there, so time to buy a cheap "made in China" Gen2 wheel bearing tool and 2 F-A-G bearings. I just replaced both sides as typically when something goes on one side the other one is getting the same way, which was probably wrong in my case. I was unable to tie it down to one side anyway, so replacing both seemed like a smart plan - and that worked for me, that car is now at almost 10 years 55,000 miles and still okay. If you are replacing these bearings yourself, you might end up trashing an ABS sensor or two, I only trashed the second side's one! I'd describe the noise in both cars as a "wha wha wha" a lot like old army trucks sound like with their all surface tyres, the VW Polo noise initially was only around 55>65MPH but as time went on, it appeared earlier and stayed for most of the road speed range in normal driving. I wouldn't expect that you will be able to detect any "slackness" in the affected wheel(s), so don't let that have you looking elsewhere.

I had to go into the internetweb to work out why I failed to do that "simple" task on my daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra - it started to look a lot like I was going to break something - proper "stupid" design.

Hum, VAQ now "2 years", oh well, I suppose that I'll need to do that job again this year on my daughter's Leon Cupra, pump out this time though - last time was just a fluid change so that I could get a handle on how/what I needed to get that job done without too much mess! Plugs, seals and bolts at the ready, just need a bottle of fluid - a bit of a messy job as it entails draining the fluid down onto a cross member, before it ends up down in a container.

@Ootohere , yes even the warranty thing was different, when I bought 2 VW cars in Europe - as part of the allowed terms when we were in Europe - so bought Taxfree and tax paid at the point of applying for first registration, it was well known that these cars only came with 12 months warranty as that is all that the manufacturer provided at that time, the 2nd and/or 3rd year warranty was provided by the UK's importers of these cars - and obviously the customer was paying extra to cover that, hidden in or rolled up into the new car cost.

@smipx ,It might be interesting to see how a VW Group cam belt failure was "collected" by a used car warranty - hopefully you will never end up being on the receiving end of any fob offs. Though surely someone has already been through this, it would be useful if they could chip in with their experiences. I'm not in any way contradicting/criticising what your general feelings about this are, until this "relaxation" in time/distance change was rolled out by VW UK, Skoda UK etc etc, the rest of Europe and the world that VW AG sells its products into, had already been using longer service periods for these cam belts in "normal" sales regions, not just from a few years back, but at least back to 2000, it was just mainly UK sales area's main dealership service areas that were being encouraged into the initial "4 years" and then "5 years" change periods. I for one was willing to believe that they had extended this change period in UK because more robust materials were being used along with more robust support parts, when in reality it is more likely "the game is up" as we tend to have access to more relevant information.

@Ootohere , maybe consider what is written in more of the postings that you make reference to, it was not a discussion about different engines, but a discussion on the approach that some main dealerships take to some expensive recommendations - in this case replacing cam belts. The OP was discussing the sharp or possibly seen as nasty or opportunist side of a main dealership's approach, my example, which unfortunately also centred on cam belts was the opposite and more expensive way that a "extra service task" can be handled - as in my example it did go wrong and caused engine failure.

Personally I consider, in this case, that there is some wisdom in aiming to reduce the risk of cam belt or its support parts failing and so ending up with a trashed engine, a bit earlier than the manufacturer's recommended time/distance. The only thing that I have not worked out is just at what point this work should be carried out time/distance. Coming from running cars that came with initially "4 years" cam belt replacement, then onto the next engine improvement that lead to "5 years", for both cars I did get that work carried out at the recommended time/distance, I am now in the position of running a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS that is now at nearly 55,000 miles, and so I'm strongly considering that after its MOT later this month, I should be booking it in for cam belt etc replacement - if I don't do that, I think that I'll just have this nagging feeling that "what if" - so getting that work done should avoid that happening. We've owned this car from new and so will probably move it on within the next 6 years, so with that in mind, even if I stuck to VW Group recommendations, I'd still be ending up paying for that work to get done. That is just my thoughts on this. There is no doubt that your dealership is praying on the "what if" factor, but at what point does that convert into greed or "over selling" - that is the bit that could be hard to work out. I initially considered that when the 7.5 year point was reached, I would get this work done and so consider that when compared the "5 years" recommendation of the previous engines, I had gained 50% extra service life. Just a tale that I have probably told on here in the past:- a neighbour who would own up to knowing nothing about cars, bought one of the first front wheel drive Ford Escort 1300 with the CVH engine - he bought it from his friendly local "Ford agent" - these did exist years ago, so all good, a sensible price for his traded in Ford Fiesta and a sensible price for his new Escort 1300, he handed it in on time for all its servicing - then one day "bang" cambelt snapped, it was recovered to this garage, when he was told what the repair cost would be he was quite annoyed, and so asked why this had happened - the only answer he got was that this was sometime that could be expected to happen by that age/mileage if he had not got the cam belt etc replaced! Yes a friendly local garage, but one that was not helping the owner to avoid big failures like this, they would know that he was not a "car man" so it sounded a lot like they had let him down by not firmly suggesting that remedial extra work was getting carried out in time. So, which way would you prefer to play this, 1) greedy garage looking for extra work, or 2) friendly garage that lets you end up needing to spend a lot of extra cash ?

Yes, I've worked on the front struts on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza and a 2015 VW Polo, and all I did to get enough access to the strut tops was to use wooden wedges and/or blocks to keep one side of that cover up at a time. Doing that allowed enough room for me to use a "drive through" socket and a long enough hex bit through its centre. I think that if you find the need to remove this plastic cover completely, then you use a looped cable tie at each end of the cover where it locates under the windscreen, and start by pulling at each end first. It does seem to be quite easy to get things back together while retaining the original alignment, or near enough the original alignment, for the first car that I worked on I just sprayed yellow paint up on the lower outer end of the TCAs so that I could then reassembly things and used a mirror to get the nuts back into the exact same position. For the 2015 Polo I just used the "witness marks" on the paintwork of the TCA. I had some plain nuts of the correct size, so to get the TCA alignment correct on both cars I initially used these plain nuts and nipped them up tight, then replaced them one at a time using new stiff nuts - that worked for me. One year later, and I've still not got the Polo alignment checked/corrected and the tyres both summer and winter ones show even wear, I've still got the lower ball joints to replace, the alignment will get done after that. The only issue with that Polo is the steering wheel is maybe 5 degrees away from the "straight ahead" position, but I can live with that for a few more weeks/months.

Nothing wrong with re-joining any cut wires, just make sure that you carry out the repair in manner that will mean it lasts as long as the rest of the cable form. Typically you would need to cut out a section and replace with a suitable section of new wire - unless that wire had some "slack" in it. I lengthen many wires and shortened others in the front bumper cable for my Audi S4 as the Kufatec cable lengths were not correct, no issues what so ever - that work was done by me back in 2015/2016, I just examined the original wiring, checked the C/S of the strands and the number of strands and ordered the closest but slightly "bigger" modern automotive wiring, applied heat shrink sleeving and rewrapped the cable form using proper tape.

Yes, I agree, I've had one for maybe 16 years, possibly would get "unsettled" if I left home with it accidentally left in our other car!

In hot weather and in hotter climates, there was issues with the purge valves on these engines, but normally it was a problem had only affected starting after being stopped for a few hours - but never so never I suppose. These valves do normally only get pulsed under certain engine and driving conditions, like "engine warmed up" and "low engine load" - I used to hear that valve operate in my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI under these conditions, discovered that I didn't need to have to hear it and forced VW to replace the type of pump they had fitted to some cars - a nice cheap length of aniconic hard plastic piping, with the later preformed smooth bore rubber pipe - due to spotting this on this Skoda forum, VW did play dumb for a while though, but I persisted and since getting that pipe changed, I never hear that unnecessary noise!

I've now had a look at my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, and what is behind there is the HP fuel pump, it has its high pressure outlet pipe on the far RHS looking into from the front, on the other side of that HP fuel pump is a fuel pressure sensor and a rubber pipe with some extra rubber protection on it, it is the LP fuel delivery to this HP fuel pump. There will also be a top seal on that mechanical HP fuel pump. Absolutely no fuel should ever end up on the outside of that area - but you know that already I suppose. Maybe lift the air cleaner assembly up and out of the way when it is still wet and see where it seems to be coming from. Edit:- I'd think that the HP fuel delivery pressure will be higher when the engine is cold, so if it is a HP fuel leak from that area, ie pipe or sensor, then it would be worst then. I've never checked the fuel delivery pressure at cold or hot so I can't comment on how much it gets varied by, from memory, there is another HP fuel pressure sensor on the LHS (looking in to the engine) - on the end of the fuel rail. Next Edit:- sorry I've now re-read your earlier postings and see that you have already taken the air filter off and not found any useful clues, how annoying! Keep trying.

The way that they do it must work cost wise nowadays due to high volumes. I'm old enough to remember that when I bought a used Ford Escort De Lux van back in 1977, as it didn't have a coolant temperature gauge, all I needed to do was go to a scrappy and remove the dash pod from a same aged Ford Escort GXL or XL, and fit that after swopping the speedo, the extra wire/wires were there. So, that meant that the temperature sensor and its wiring had been fitted already - I had checked - of course!

Sorry for missing your past 2 postings, but yes, when you remove the charge pipe you are advised to fit new O-rings, I found that the alloy top of the throttle body needs cleaning up as salty spray or as in my case, even bits of rock salt can end up in between the charge pipe end and the throttle body, and that can lead to corrosion build up which will force the O-ring to distort and cause oil mist to leak out and that will "wet" the upper area of the throttle body - so the alloy should really get buffed up with something like a "green pad" to get rid of the build up of salty corrosion. I'll need to look at my wife's car's engine to work out what is in the area that gets wet with fuel in your car. Edit:- getting the inlet manifold etc off will let you check if "all is well" and that that engine is not one of the ones that could end up with this problem - and so tick that off your "worry" list.

I'd think that for £140 at a main dealership, it is only the Haldex fluid that has been replaced. The bill should detail what materials have been used, for a basic oil change there should be a bottle of fluid + FILL and DRAIN plugs - so is, guessing from past prices paid - and increased them due to "time passed", £70 + £15, which leaves very little labour time.

If you want to make this a bit easier than it might end up being, maybe check the Kufatec website for kits and wiring cables, hopefully when you look at the kits they sell, you should be able to work out exactly the parts you need to move from "rear parking sensors only" to "front and rear parking sensors", then when you look at the wiring harnesses they sell, you should be able to buy that. After buying the harness, you will be able to log into their support instructions for that kit. Now, all that written above is based on my experience of adding front parking sensors to my 2011 Audi S4 in 2015, but hopefully you will find the same availability of stuff for your 2013 Fabia. I am a bit fussy so I wanted to achieve "as factory" or as near as possible, I bought all support parts via ebay, sensors were bought new but at sensible prices, I had to cut and splice the front bumper cable as it looked like one version was made for a wide range of ages of my car and typically LHD only, which can explain the need to alter the wiring slightly - I just checked the wire types used and bought a couple of reels of same sizes,I even bought a replacement "bumper" and "car" side set of connectors as Kufatec uses a size that leaves unused connections - I'd guess that like Audi, Skoda will also use at factory the correct connectors and so leave no unused connections. Coding, yes a few modules will need their coding altered to add in this upgrade, I've got VCDS so used that and tip/guides/hints from motoring forums, everything went perfectly, just a bit worrying punching the holes in the front bumper!

It may well be damping the movement of the mirror, that would tie in with the issue that you were having - that is just an maybe logical,guess.

If you are still interested in checking what all was included in the initial build at the factory, ask your local Skoda Parts Department for a print out of "CAR DATA" for that car, you only need to give them the reg number to get this. Alternatively, you can pay a 3rd party a nominal fee, maybe £5 for this to get emailed to you, CCP otherwise called Coverdale Car Parts can or used to provide this service for £5. coverdalecarparts.co.uk typically "they" respond quicker to direct contact via their facebook page.

Whoops, I missed the sparkplug info had been given, also forgot to comment on the slight smell of petrol when cold started in a garage, that could just be unburned fuel from the cold start - but made worse by wrong temperature information or some other reason causing misfiring at initial cold start.

It's easy to check the cam belt, just remove the top cover and look inside, at 117,000 kms, maybe time to check and even replace it, as to "is this the problem?" - I'd not think so. Coking up of the inlet port areas, might be an issue - that can be checked/cleared by walnut shell blasting, or maybe even dry ice. Injectors slightly clogging up, you could feed this car with a dose of injector cleaner, as someone has reported on one of these VAG forums that these TSI engines can/do suffer from injectors clogging up enough to cause issues. Temperature sensor - maybe that is handing duff values when "cold" - that could get checked by using a compliant scan tool. I suppose someone will jump in with "when was it last serviced - and are the spark plugs getting replaced at the correct time/distance?" - that could be relevant. Oil level, I'm maybe reading too much into this, but, is the engine oil level currently too high, not good.