rum4mo

I read that the official "VW Group repair pathway for warranty repairs" was to remove upper mounting, absolutely cover with what in my case looked a lot like Copper Grease - and that meant covering the rubber part with this stuff, and refit. Now that worked very well - for a few days only! I only worked out that they had used Copper Grease because there was signs of it around the engine bay - then I looked down at the mounting!

My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS started making swishy/rubbery noises while was under UK new car warranty, VW dealership eventually replaced the "petrol engined" gearbox mounting for the "diesel TDI engined" equivalent, and that sorted that noise out. One way to try to find out where the issue stems from might be to grab the top of the engine and try to rock it back and forwards, the engine in my wife's Polo, when rocked by hand, made strange noises until that gearbox mounting was replaced. On the question "should I have bought a Polo?" all these small VW Group cars have shared the same under pinnings or running gear, and that means Skoda as in key parts manufactured in CZ and/or in that locality, so no escape by buying a similar sized car from VW, SEAT or Audi for the time being as the Fabia is the "mother" version for these underpinnings or running gear. Maybe a strange thing, but when I started looking at which versions were used by each VW marque, there was a newer version used by one Fabia - ie the part number had been changed to a later platform than the original 6Q one, which indicated a part revision as well as maybe some other reason. Many of these parts have remained unchanged since Fabia first used them at launch of MK1 Fabia.

Maybe measuring the open circuit PD of a cell battery and using that as a Yes/No as to if it will work when loaded by the key electronics, will only work if all cell batteries are of the same quality and so same internal resistance. I plan to only ever fit Panasonic coin cell batteries to car keys, as do VW Group. Edit:- when I've changed batteries, but always just playing safe - no other reason, the open circuit PD across the cells has been same as you have measured, but none of my cars have kessy.

There at least, used to be sellers of new transponder pellets on the internet in UK, I bought probably a used but "new" for both my previous VW's so that meant receiving new looking keys with blank blades, I never ever completed that task, although I did find a security company that did sell unused transponder pellets. One thing, rumour had it that any/most "used but newish" keys ended up being fitted with blades made out of a harder material than VW Group's key supplier does, so that could annoy a key cutting machine!

If the headlight assembly, fitting to the car, is anything like the similar aged VW Polo, then make sure that you have worked out which screws fix the casing/carrier to the car and which fixings fix the headlight assembly into its carrier. If the MK3 Fabia is similar in that respect to same age VW Polo, then in theory, the headlight assembly can get removed from its carrier and refitted without needing to bother about any major re-alignment, I made sure that I refitted that Polo headlight assembly so that the fixing screws were back in the same position ie on the old witness marks. First time these lights were removed required quite a hard whack from a fist to dislodge it from its fully seated position within the carrier, if same as same age VW Polo there will be guides in both parts to ensure near enough same alignment when refitted, maybe too easy to refit on that car without having the rear tang/finger engaged in its receiver - the rear of the headlight will be "floppy" if not fixed correctly in place. Edit:- maybe prepare for ending up with a sore palm or fist as there was no or not enough room to accelerate my palm/fist before it made contact with the rear of the housing! Another Edit:- on the same age VW Polo, I only removed 2 screws, the 3rd one seems to be for an adjustable stop, if any of that translates to how the Fabia headlight is fitted.

Remember that some other car makers used these as well, I think that the last one that I bought via ebay was listed as for Vauxhall. Once you have sorted this out, record the actual code of the security bolt/adaptor, the code is stamped on the inner end of the bolt and on the adaptor. Strange thing is, both our cars have the same code, but for different series of security bolts! I just used "VW locking wheel bolt keys" - or similar as a search phrase, and got quite a few hits. Edit:- remember to give the VW Transporter ones with a 19mm hex head, you need one that has a 17mm hex head as do all VW Group cars.

How did you connect up the meter for checking for a drain, and how long did you leave it connected while checking the current drain current value?

Another VW Polo 1.2TSI 90PS this time with a build date 07/09/16 in ZA which, using my wife's car and engine build dates as a guide, means that engine would have been build round about 20/07/16 in CZ. Once again no real interest from their supplying VW dealership as that car was taken to the nearest workshop for repair, which was not VW. He is/has reported this to DVSA, but no reply from them. As usual, there was one bolt "missing" which sounds a lot like its head had pop'd off and one bolt loose, the owner was a bit concerned as his wife had been driving and had a grandchild in the rear seat.

I'd reckon that you would be better off buying 2 of these jointing pieces and a length of new same dimension washer fluid pipe, if you do that you would be pulling the cut ends of the pipe back in both directions so that the 2 joints were well away from the gaitor area and so away from any points where the pipe gets flexed due to the hatch being opened.

Any oil on the plastic charge pipe could be down to the "rubber" O-ring not sealing as well as it should. I took that pipe off my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and the official workshop manual points out that these O-rings should be replaced whenever that pipe is removed - though I would normally only expect oil to be misting out from the other end, ie the TB end. Edit:- on looking at that picture again, I'm guessing that your car has the earlier 8V version of that engine, though probably still got a "rubber" O-ring at the turbo end, and maybe that end of that pipe is the lowest point of that charge pipe - it is the highest point on the later 16V engines, so the oil mist appears at the other lower end mainly.

I think that in general, we, or I have been very kind to the 640A CCA EFB battery in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, especially during lock down periods, by connecting a smart charger to it. I've also treated it to a "reconditioning" charging profile once a year for the past 3 years, that has dragged back up the CCA value that I get when I test it, currently it is returning a value of 475A CCA and "replace battery" - but it will enable auto Stop/Start quite early on in a journey if I let it. I'm hoping that this year's Spring "recondition" charging period will bring that value back up a bit - although I have already bought a new AGM battery.

This could be due to the battery health, if it has still got its original EFB battery, then it will probably not now be in "tip top" condition, other reasons include normal length of journeys and frequency of use. Edit:- I'm guessing what you really mean is that the car does not "auto stop" most of the time.

Same sort of thing can be due to the gearbox top, or maybe more correctly, the mounting on the LHS of the gearbox being a bit duff, I had that on a 2015 6C Polo 1.2TSI - that car still used the same/similar top and lower mountings and probably the same RHS or engine mounting. Grabbing the engine and trying to rock it fore<>aft proved something was a bit mushy.

Maybe your best plan would be to remove the auxiliary belt while the engine is warm up or hot and then see if that noise has disappeared, if so then it has to be one of the driven components. Or before doing that, while it is making that noise, switch on the headlights and rear screen heater - if it now makes more noise then it will just be alternator bearings. Something else to try is, switch AC completely off, ie switch to ECO mode, is that noise still happened, if it is then switch on the AC and demand cooling, is the noise changing at all to indicate that it could be the AC compressor. After that there are a few rollers and belt tensioner to consider, but you could check them sort of, while you had the auxiliary belt off and the engine stopped. One other outside possibility is the EVAP valve being activated, but I don't think that that happens during idling, unplugging the EVAP power lead would be one way to check if it was that, though normally that makes a beeep beep beeping noise when the engine has warmed up and the engine speed is above idle speed. Finally, does the auto stop/start still operate, if not then check the voltage across the battery at idle and at increased engine revs. Edit:- that final comment concerning the battery voltage, should have included that if your battery is dying, then even at idle the alternator will still be trying to charge it back up and so putting a heavy load demand on the alternator and its belt etc - so while that might point to alternator bearings, it could also be getting made worse because the battery is in poor health.

In my case yes, just very bad workshop advice and an extremely "big" volume difference between MIN and MAX. With cars with the usual "ball shaped" header tank the difference in volume is much less and even a much lower percentage of the system capacity, I'd think that VW Group carefully thought out what works for MIN and MAX and I'd never bother overfilling as I'd expect that some would get discharged out via the pressure release valve in the cap. As @roottoot asked, really.

Just another comment, tale, I replaced the coolant in my 2011 S4, and the official workshop manual said that on refilling, fill the system up to MAX which on that car's tank, is very high! Now I considered that this might be a proper workshop's way of "filling once" after the system had been opened and that any trapped air would get replaced by some of the excess coolant and so the level would drop back in use. So, getting a bit concerned that after a long fast run, the level had dropped back down to just above halfway between MIN - MAX so when cold and before the return trip the next day, I refilled back up to MAX, got home and the level had again dropped back a bit - but on close inspection, there was traces of dried out coolant on top of the coolant tank, so what had been happening was that the liquid had expanded and forced some out via the pressure cap, after that no more dropping of fluid level - just like it was prior to me opening up that system.

I have 5 1 litre ex-G12evo containers at the side of my garage filled with G12, been there less than 12 months, still wondering what is best option - no labelling now on these containers, I understand your concerns!!

Module 09, on your car is an earlier version of Central Electronics than that on the 2009 SEAT Ibiza, later units were given the description Body Control Module, ie BCM but its task is still the same although the later BCM contained a couple of subsystems, so maybe the question is, did VW Group slightly mess up with the built in controller in all these Module 09 at that period in time, and so late 6Q1 937 049 F shared similar issues as 6R0 937 087 B. Back to "how can you tell what build level, issue a Module 09 Central Electronics is currently at from scanning it?" - it is the 4 digit group at the right hand side of the "Component : " line, which in your case is "2S36". Edit:- sorry it has taken so long to wind my brain/memory back 5 years and find print outs of "before" and "after" for that late 2009 SEAT Ibiza which was sold on in August 2019.

To date I have not spotted any information that says if this (Golf R version of mounting) brings with it any adverse noise/vibration/harshness issue to such a level that some might not want to consider this, with the tooling that I have bought, it is possible to replace that mounting without completely removing that lower link/wishbone, so hopefully avoid a full 4 wheel re-alignment. I have removed the front suspension on a similar car, a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza and making sure everything was refitted back into its original position left that car's suspension behaving okay ie without any unusual tyre wear or steering issues, which was good!

An alternative to replacing the arm is to get the torn bush pressed out and a new one pressed in, a tool of doing that appears on ebay at times. Typically listed for use on a VW Golf, but exactly the same mounting bush.

BCM is the module that controls some of the power distribution and it is it that forces "unwanted" supplies to sleep to minimise battery drain as well as switching of some or most loads. No it is not coding that can be done using VCDS, it is the firmware that gets re-flashed and so when you check that module with VCDS the S/W issue gets changed after a re-flash. Edit:- being able to identify any changes to S/W is quite handy as you can see if the dealership has carried out updates during servicing of cars still under warranty. I asked the service receptionist at the first SEAT dealership I took that car into and he "confirmed" that the techs do not know the S/W changes or if they have been successfully made and the only way that they keep track of S/W updates is by logging them locally - that must be BS as the displayed present S/W issue/build must or should mean something to them if VW Group bother about configuration control. So in answer to my question to them "don't you know if controllers have been updated already as you must need to be able to do that so that you know what route to take to solve known issues?" they just said "no, if in doubt we would just request that S/W update and the online machine only confirms that an update has been passed down to that controller". Sounds like fun but I'd hope the workshop techs know a lot more than that! Yes, very annoying having a car and wondering if it will start after not being used for a few days, after the first unsuccessful fix, where just the clockspring assembly was replaced because they thought it might be causing this problem, we went away on holiday and left this car at the airport carpark, but I put a jump pack in the car, on our return, the car unlocked and almost started once, but not the second time, I trusted it to start and released the key too soon, but the jump pack worked! Sorting this car out became a battle that I was not willing to give up on!

Maybe a "red herring", but I had a problem with the battery draining on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 BXW, and after exhausting all, in my mind possible reasons, came to the conclusion that it was a BCM coding issue, eventually I found a SEAT dealership that was willing to check that car and submit a "global help" technical request to SEAT "mothership" and that resulted in them being directed to a BCM S/W patch that had been raised back in maybe 2011 and so lost from the dealership's "sight" as it was so old and considered that all cars affected would have already been submitted complaining about this issue years ago. Applying that BCM patch to that car solved that problem. The main reason maybe that that SEAT dealership had been able to help me where another SEAT dealership could only replace possible faulty assemblies, would be down to them having to discover this issue with a similar aged VW Polo 1.4 BXW and solving it, very little is known about this issue or the S/W patch offered back in maybe 2011. The reason that I am posting is that all of these cars are 2009 with a 1.4 BWX engine so possibly also have the same p/n of BCM fitted - and the 2 cars I mentioned did not show any logged faults, they just drained the battery too quickly if not used daily or every other day. Just something to consider if no actual faults can be found elsewhere on that car.

The owner of the SEAT Leon 1.4TSI with this leaking fuel issue found that in USA and Canada there is a safety recall for this, okay we do not live in USA or Canada, but this is not been dealt with over there as a normal recall but a safety recall, so maybe that makes a difference and VW Group in Europe should be recalling all affected cars for checking FOC as well as paying for all cars that have suffered failed bolts. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V648-7026.pdf Edit:- note that the bolt tightening procedure is now 8Nm + 90 degrees, I've not seen the "+90 degrees" included for these bolts before now.

If you have a "battery" concern, maybe fork out on a small jump pack as that will be cheaper than a compact capacitor based one, you can lock the car up without any battery being fitted, the drivers door - or maybe in some cases, the passenger door will have a mechanical lock barrel so the key blade will fit and lock that one, all others should have a small softish rubber cover on the rear face of the door at door handle level, if you remove them you can insert the key blade and flick the locking mechanism, replace the cover and close the doors, they will then be locked but without the deadlock being "on". Unlocking is just unlock the door that has a key lock and open the others from the inside using the handle. Personally, if you really have a "battery" concern I'd just buy a small jump pack and leave it in the car, if everything is okay car wise and battery wise, 3 weeks is not a long time to leave a car unused. Edit:- I had a "battery draining potentially" situation once when needing to leave a car at the airport for only one week, I charged my old small cheap jump pack and left it in the car, that car did let me down, it turned over once and once only, so the jump pack was hauled out and that worked very well, saved what would be an annoying wait for the AA if they are allowed to get into controlled carparks - maybe these car park controllers have their own "helpers at a cost".

Most of the time, parts being sold branded as VW Group parts, like service parts at least, will also have the branding of the company that supplied them - maybe not the same as the manufacturer in all cases but in most cases, the only ones that have not had that recently, in my experience, was the air filter for the later versions of the 1.4 16V petrol engines and maybe the air filter on these 1.2TSI 16V engines, though I might be wrong about the 1.2TSI 16V engines, it is coming up for 4 years since I replaced the air filter on my wife's 2015 VW Polo and it turns out that I've bought a Mann filter element for the next service, VW Group tend to use a manufacturer that has a presence in Germany, like Mann, Mahle, Hengst or Knecht for air, pollen and oil filters.