rum4mo

I hope that it was the valve thing that I suggested that you replaced and not just the rear spray nozzle? Typically to replace a washer pump, you would lift the front of the car onto axle stands, lift the bonnet to see which side of the car the washer fluid reservoir is on, then remove the front wheel on that side and then either remove the wheel arch liner or just remove enough of its fixings to allow you to reach the washer pump which will be mounted on the washer reservoir - I'd hope that replacing that pump is possible without removing the front bumper cover.

Re-awakening an old thread, I eventually replaced both front bearings on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI as one of them was getting noisy, so I just bought a cheap Gen2 72mm bearing removal/fitting kit off ebay, it worked okay, but just to be safe, and seeing as others had commented on a forum, that the steel pegs tended or could bend, I bought a set of 5 pegs from a Sealey parts supplier and just guessed that these cheap chinese kits are copies of better ones - that worked! On the subject of ABS sensors, I had read in the official VW workshop manual that removing an ABS sensor from a 2015 etc Polo means killing it - just a pity as all or most YouTube videos show these sensors just getting wiggled slightly and out they come intact! Anyway, I sussed out that the removal rear "block" while having a flat machined off to clear the ABS sensor, would need a bit more material removed, so I cut out a narrowish deeper slot, that worked for the left side, and it looks like fitting the bearing has not trashed that ABS sensor, but on the right side, that side was a lot rustier and when that bearing was removed, the nasty lumps of rust caught the "finger" of the ABS sensor and so tilted it over, so I guessed that that ABS sensor had been cracked but still still roughly in one part. I eventually managed to eject that ABS sensor and in doing that, the lower end or "finger" got pulled back into its correct (looking) position before breaking off - so that ABS sensor was now in 2 parts! Really with a view to get that car back together quickly I phone my local Skoda dealer, then are easier to get to than my local VW dealer, and asked the price of a right side front ABS sensor - £95.90, and they do not get stocked! I was not in that much of a hurry to get that car together again so I ordered a Bosch one via ECP, that £56ish, I had already prepared for this eventuality so knew that that same Bosch part would cost £27 + delivery from AutoDoc, but I did not want to wait 8 - 10 days. While searching on ebay before ordering one, I noticed someone selling an unused left front VW Group ABS sensor, so just in case the left hand side has not survived a bearing change - I bought that one for £9 + delivery which was roughly £4. So I now know that you can clean out the rusty curd from these ABS sensor bore holes using a 10mm drill bit. The bearings that I bought via AutoDoc were FAG and the bearings fitted into that car at initial build were SNR France, so hopefully the FAG bearings last longer than the SNR ones, though the side that seems to have been causing the noise was the rusty side, but these bearings should be able to keep out water I would have thought. Finally I learned way back in late 2006/early 2007, that if you need to take things apart on these cars (a 2002 VW Polo), you really need a tap and die set that covers all the sizes and threads used on these cars, cleaning up the exposed ends of threads does make removing nuts a lot easier, back in late 2006/early 2007 replacing a front spring took far too long - and then I bought a reasonable tap and die set before changing the other front spring. Edit:- just one other comment or info, the brand or branding of the ABS wheel sensor I ended up breaking on that 2015 VW Polo, was ATE - I had expected that if its brand was shown on it it would be Bosch, not so.

That sounds quite expensive for a fuel cap seal, but when I looked on line at the time you asked that question, everything being sold on ebay was a similar price. One thing about searching on ebay for replacement fuel cap seals was that I "bumped into" fuel cap replacement lanyards - that was something that I was looking for many years ago - but there were none and it seemed that the only solution would be a new cap, now I need to be aware of which version of replacement parts each of our cars use - just in case!

I have now read about this happening with a same age Ibiza or Polo, in that case, after selecting service position, in normal use the wipers have continued to use that position or close to it as the parking position.

With time running out and you having not done anything about this, it might just be easiest to buy a new filler cap, Skoda will, I'd think without checking up on a parts listing, sell a new cap seal for very little money. Edit:-1K0201557A is one number for a seal.

A bit unfortunate that the fuse tap got disturbed I'd think, maybe designed to fail, or failed to design sensibly. Edit:- in the past I've bought in a couple of fuse taps -but so far not ended up putting them to use.

Without checking on my wife's 2015 VW Polo, that looks a bit like where they park when you demand "service position" - although why they are doing that will probably be down to a failing wipers stalk - a well known issue with these cars, as to how that cause that, I can't say, or the wiper motor assembly - ie its parking system - again I can't explain why the parking system would fail in that way - all guessing really, at long distance!

Maybe that "24" is 24 days until the next service is due, so that means that the workshop that carried out your oil change did not reset the service indicator or that 24 days is until an inspection is due, probably the smart thing to do is to reset both service and inspection warnings when servicing the car - and carrying out any extra tasks that are required for the inspection. Edit:- if the "24" changes to "23" after a day and so after another day, then that would confirm or disprove my suggestion. Similarly the "1200" will drop to a lower number of km once you have run 100 or 200kms.

I'm just waiting on that older daughter getting back to me with the prices Arnold Clark are offering to charge for a brake fluid change, rear discs and pads change and a from E-diff or VAQ fluid change, then I can offer up "my plan so far", the trouble is, I have been put on her insurance for that Cupra and so far I have not bothered to try driving it, it has DSG and this is an old dog maybe not needing to learn new tricks! But if I did ever get brave enough to drive it, I could either take it out to my garage when she is not needing to use it and sort things out, or take it to my favoured VW Group Indie and let her pay for his services - I'd rather the Lotus driver came out and helped me a bit when I'm sorting out that Cupra, maybe cleaning up the mess after changing the E-diff fluid as I believe it smells a lot more than older gear oils! Though I'm sure that his interests as far as car stuff is concerned, lies at home with his Espirit, or E Spirit as the classic insurers call it! Then there is the younger daughter in London, their first car has touched its first kerb, so much distress, I'd rather that they sourced a spare wheel kit instead of worrying too much about returning that kerbed wheel to "as good as new" - but I'm failing on that front!

Hi, I have still not changed anything as the original battery is still able to support that car, and I don't really want an extra "still usable" old battery laying around in the garage! Parts bought:- Battery tray(BRACKET) changed for VW Group p/n 6C0 915 321D to suit the bigger frame size battery and insulator(BATT CASE) changed to 5Q0 915 411E – both already bought, managed to eventually get out to the garage, but not fitted yet. I planned to at least get trays swopped over this summer while I had the front moved out to have a look at the other side of the AC condenser - but the recent seriously hot spell of weather forced me to get the AC recharged to keep my wife quiet!

Not a good look and hopefully not carried out by a professional auto spark. If it was my car I would remove them and if still required, wired that new requirement in safely

It was the manual gearbox version of the BBY that I found to be a bit of an under performer when compared with the noisier revised versions.

When comparing the manual versions, one is a slug and the other is quite a good but noisy engine. Progress on the part of VW Group.

Naw, one is enough, this one just needs to actually “try” learning more about how things work, by doing lots of jobs on his own car. That car is booked in for a small service in 8 days time, so plenty time to sort the electrics out, even including finding out how to do that - no? Well okay probably not, then it needs an MOT, and then back under its cover until next year! The trouble is, that car, when all missing screws etc are in place and it’s logged faults read and issues cleared, and probably a new exhaust manifold, could make good money if a buyer could be found, right now in a buyer’s, at least a wise buyer’s eyes, it is just a typical Lotus, ie lots of trouble usually serious, so that means only being worth probably 1/3 of what it could be. I don’t mind a challenge or helping someone get a good result, but they need to show me some commitment before I start to help them, and that includes trying to use the proper diagnostic tool that came with the car, I even found what is meant to be the computer prog that supports it, sometimes you need to be brave enough to take a risk! Maybe I should just keep quiet about replacing the rear brakes, clean the front brakes, change the brake fluid and even change the Haldex front diff fluid along with cleaning the pump screen - on that daughter’s Leon Cupra, but I’ll probably be a kind father while finding out how to service the front diff.

Yes I realised I should have said M100 some time later. Battery seems okay today (child minding duties!) but CCA measures 400, tester says - REPLACE, shame the Halfords receipt from last year was not filed correctly! Anyway seeing as the rains have arrived I don’t think nosing around under the rear handbag storage area is going to be my plan for today!

This guy also had an Elan, the M200 version, ie "best handling front wheel drive ever" so experts claim, anyway, having 2 Lotuses and starting to get his bachelor bungalow completely rebuilt, did mean one of them had to go, unfortunately it was the cheaper one that was sold quickly, to another Lotus enthusiast had had missed that one left time it went on sale and grabbed it this time round! One man's loss etc, at least he has my daughter to keep him company, though he does not like her Leon Cupra - just not traditional enough, "not a proper car" but it does start and go and you don't need to fold yourself up to get inside it! The battery was removed from the car, that 8amp RAC branded semi clever charger got it charged back up, capacity according to my battery tester has dropped from 550A CCA to 425A CCA and it declares that "battery is good - recharge". So, then it was subjected to a "refurbishing" cycle, ie de-sulphating charging program, and completed that without my daughter's CTEK MSX 5 getting too hot, so I've suggested that he give it another of that type of charging cycle to see if that is enough to revive it more. That car is being treated to a "disconnect" thing for convenience until it has been serviced and MOT'd - in the mean time I'm suggesting that he digs deep and gets hold of a suitable Lotus workshop manual, I think that they do exist on ebay from time to time - and look around that car for the security device(s) and get up to speed info wise on them - this is an S reg car so a series 3 I think GT - what ever that implies. I'm imagining maybe wrongly, that all the wiring will be in "stylish" plain black wire, and who really wants to chase down faults on that sort of thing!

Anyway, my maybe obsession for feeling the need to know what the charging is doing on which ever of the cars I am driving, older daughter's partner has a fairly "new" it seems Lotus Espirite - it tends to sleep under a fitted cover, always connected to a small CTEK, well it is due its MOT so it needed to be wakened up! "click click click" was all that was heard - battery had been replaced last year after its previous battery died for some reason, suspected to be lack of maintenance while it hibernated/was stored at the local "top or only Lotus Indie's premises" - that was annoying, I grabbed the plug in DVM out of the Polo and stuffed it into the Lotus's ciggy lighter socket - 10.2V - not good! So his first task is to remove that battery and charge it up probably using my "not too smart" newish RAC 8Amp charger, then I can connect my battery tester on it to see if it looks okayish or now, like the previous one dead! Then he can move onto looking into if there are parasitic draws - like "what exactly is the security device?" Off course, LOTUS does stand for something rather unfortunate! The "steady bar" thing fixed to the alternator is nylon!!!!! Maybe part of the "much lightness added" - I asked him about that, as it was a failure during its only outing last year (screeching of slipping alternator) that forced it back into hibernation, he said many people commented about that nylon strip while many said "no issues" from it being nylon. I prefer cars that have their engines in the front as you can reach things a lot better, plus I think cars that you can almost reach under them!!

I think that my older daughter spotted slight frosting on the windscreen of her Barina(sp) ie Corsa a few times when she was working in Perth.

Could be, but I think that without saying it, I was meaning most of the other "respectable" or trusted battery brands, I made a slight boo-boo when reordering on ebay, I got it into my mind that it was Sony branded batteries that I had bought in the past - I was wrong there, but the Sony branded batteries seemed as good as Panasonic - though the seller did ward me that Sony were leaving that market so next time it would need to be another brand. I've never trusted Ikea for batteries, so I avoided that error.

Yes but I was thinking , maybe what we consider to be, ambient temperatures in Oz, so "AC on" ="Compressor on high duty cycle/displacement".

I echo what @varooom said, also maybe do what I have done and buy a "plug in 12V DVM" and keep that in the "ciggy lighter" power socket, then only cost roughly £5 in UK money, good enough to keep you up to date with what is happening and maybe allow you to provide your Skoda dealership's workshop with some extra info. For the record, the charging system tries to keep battery charging to a minimum to save waste/emissions and dump lots of charging into the battery when on the over run/braking, so that means "seeing" 12.4V > 13.2V normally and just under 15V on the over run. I allow auto stop/start to do its things now and again and always if I've just missed a green traffic light. Having the AC on and requiring it to run the compressor will always disable the auto stop/start as other things will - but you have also included a high power usage, so that would certainly disable it. My wife's VW Polo is a 2015 car and has already changed the charging characteristics once from "as little as possible" charging to "always cramming in as much charge as possible at all times" lucky for me I had bought and was using that plug in DVM before that happened, as that car was out of warranty when that happened, I changed the battery serial number and that altered the charging characteristics back a bit towards what they had been before this happened, going by what my battery tester tells me, that battery, when well charged and after 6 hours of the car having been used, has dropped down in capacity ie in terms of CCA, from 640A EN down to 500A EN, but still gets classed as "battery good" and if left with auto stop/start enabled, will auto stop within maybe 1 mile having been travelled summer or winter! New AGM battery is waiting for when things start to go wrong and the original EFB battery has run of life - but that has not happened yet, mileage is almost 40K miles, that car's battery was connected to a CTEK smart charger during Covid lockdown periods, so it has been well looked after I feel.

Yes, so why can't the others not just start copying Panasonic etc, they MUST frequently be checking out the competition - or are they just lazy/stupid. I've only ever used Panasonic as if they are good enough for VW Group to stick with all these years then why bother trying any other brands.

Ah, the "dreaded" cap headed bolts, that certainly limits tightening torque! I wish that I had not asked, then I could have remained cheerful about that job until I bought the new bolts! I have done that job on a 2002 VW Polo without any problems, so here's hoping, for the future. Lucas/TRW callipers though, have you never fancied fitting an external return spring to the handbrake levers, I have on two cars, firstly the 2002 VW Polo when it became lazy to return after maybe 3 years, fitted them to the 2015 VW Polo as soon as we got it home new, to try to avoid any dragging of rear brakes, so far so good, but it gets its brakes serviced every year now that it is 7 years old.

A pat on the back for you for using new bolts, I can see that I'll be doing that job on my wife's 2015 Polo when the rear discs condition really looks bad. So they are hex headed no funcky spline stuff? I have not looked at these bolts yet, I've bought front ones though for when I replace the front wheel bearing! A pat on the back for you for using new bolts, I can see that I'll be doing that job on my wife's 2015 Polo when the rear discs condition really looks bad. So they are hex headed no funcky spline stuff? I have not looked at these bolts yet, I've bought front ones though for when I replace the front wheel bearings!

Good looking car, the rear discs will always look nasty after a few years, so that is okay. Worth a visit, as long as you know how to escape from AC.