rum4mo

Have you fitted new green O-ring seals to every joint that has that type of O-ring in it - VW Group states that any/all these green O-ring seals must be replaced before re-assembly? The function of these 3 tubes is to act to reduce resonances in the induction tract at that point. Edit:- it would be useful if you stated what happened to cause that area of induction piping to get crushed - as when that happened, maybe something else got damaged, so knowing that might reduce any wild guessing.

Well, if the bumps were aimed at me, sorry that I did not update this at the time, I looked through some VW models parts listings, found what I thought could work, ordered it in, the rubber pipe that it clamps to in 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI is slightly smaller so I wrapped the contact area with fabric cable harness tape, and fitted it. It serves its purpose and hold the pipes away from hitting things and pipes apart, so in my case, I ended up improving that 2015 VW Polo to the later build standard.

I'm sure that there is a one way valve on the pump so that when it runs in one direction, ie the "normal" direction, the fluid gets sent to the front only, when the pump is run in the opposite direction, the fluid should only then be sent to the rear.

I checked this on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo SEL today, and yes after the ignition is switched off AND then a door has been opened, well at least the passenger door was opened then closed, the electric windows will not function unless you cycle the ignition, from then on, the electric windows stayed "working" for quite a long time, I stopped checking after 6 minutes if no doors are opened.

Yes I quickly noticed that "feature" with my wife's 2002 Polo with the similar BBY engine, first and only car that I've looked after that that happened on, though, I'd expect that the similar BXW engine in my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza would also behave like that. Just saying that so that you don't feel that you are the only one!

I find this with my wife's 2015 VW Polo and while it is tolerable, I can't help thinking that that car could be kept a lot quieter if the door dealing was improved, actually I'm complaining able the level of noise from outside that I can hear when I'm driving that car, I'm sure that I've opened the drivers door window and reached out and tried to press the external door seal into the space between the frame and the door and that worked, until the door is next opened - but I've always considered that it was due to the basic design of these cars and/or the basic design of the external door seal, so really not just a failing door seal.

@Brutusfrom my experience over the past 22 years of owning VW Group cars, it is normal, there is a short period after switching the ignition off when the window controllers are still awake, and so you can open/close the windows, I've forgotten how long that period is, maybe only 5 minutes. Okay it is slightly annoying to need to then switch the ignition on and off again to re-enable the window controllers - but that does not cause me any great concern/inconvenience.

Yes, the oil cap will have a rubber sealing washer, as will the cranked adaptor - at the same point, where it fitted onto the engine. One other thing, if you ever end up buying a new cranked adaptor, understand that it sort of locks onto the top of the engine, ie there will be a slight locking/latching element on the area that it fixes to, if you have a look at your picture of the broken one, you will see a raised "finger" near the steel tang at the top of the picture, so while it is a bayonet type fitting, that lower end also has a locking/latching bit - not knowing that might have contributed to the original adaptor getting broken, though I'd think its body material will have aged and so hardened with age and that would make it easier to break when being removed.

Has the spring steel bit on that side not snapped off and dropped down into the top of the cam chest? Maybe compare that broken end with the filler cap itself. Can you not just fit the filler cap onto where that cranked adaptor was fitted to to close off the cam chest? Edit:- oh, I was wrong, that other spring steel tang is still fitted to the cranked adaptor and is just bent/broken.

I've bought and used 4 of these kits since late 1970s, and yes the weak area is always the car's fluid reservoir cap seal, or at least the Gunsons seal in the correct cap, which, for VW Group cars, there is a choice of seals as that cap fits 2 sizes! I'm not sure that I ever worked out which seal works best with VW Group cars reservoir - as instructed on the box always fit the kit to the car dry first and pressurise to make sure that there are no air leaks, fluid leaks with normally area once you have started using this kit so smother everywhere with newspapers and paper towelling - always remembering the pln is never to allow brake fluid to get into contact with any paintwork that is on show! I bodged up a "bought for that purpose" pump up garden sprayer to use as a pressure source, that saves messing around with a tyre.

A big chunk of gearbox, like a stiffening web.

You can buy a coil "extractor" which is just a tool that you pass a tapered/wedged part down through the securing screw hole then expand it, then grab the handle grip part - and pull. I bought a Laser Tools version which was not too cheap, but it looks like it was hand made - so buying anywhere cheaply and without a quality branding should work, even AliExpress - if you have the time to wait! Edit:- I already had a Laser Tools roughly 9" long spark plug socket with built in magnets - I had been using that for years on earlier VW Group cars, but when I went to use it on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI for its first plug change - this socket could not get down and onto the hex part of the plugs - the reason was, this 9" long spark plug socket has a hole all the way through/along it, which was big enough to clear "old school" spark plug body profile - but not big enough diameter to allow these newer version of spark plugs fully into it. Laser Tools could not understand this as all their warehouse stock were checked and were okay with newer versions of plugs, so either they changed that "random" hole size after I bought mine, or my one was not to drawing but perfectly useable with "old school" versions of spark plugs - anyway, nothing that a couple of "good" drill bits bought from Machine Mart and lots of cutting fluid could not sort out for the future, for that spark plug change I had to revert to an older spark plug socket and extension.

Just makes the pessimistic bit of me wonder if this will fail in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI before the first suspension coil spring breaks - I've already got almost enough G12evo 50% mix coolant left from when I replaced the coolant in my car though - and a Draper Vacuum Coolant Refill Kit!!

Sounds a bit like the plastic casing is cracked or distorted, and that will get replaced by your workshop I'd think, so I'd lay off loading any gunge into the clean coolant system.

I plan to replace the voided TCA rear bushes with non voided ones - when the need/time comes, but that is on a Polo 1.2TSI, many many years back, when people had just started to need to replace the console bushes in their Fabia/Polo/Ibizas, someone, probably Ross, issued a cautionary warning concerning NVH issues when fitting the Cupra non voided console bushes to cars with TDI engines, I got them fitted to my wife's 2002 Polo with the 1.4 75PS BBY petrol engine when the original voided console bushes ended up getting torn, and everything was positive absolutely no extra unwanted NVH issues, just sorted out console bushes along with much increased feeling from steering inputs.

That was the first thing that I retro fitted to my wife's 1994 Ford Fiesta with the 1.6 Zetec engine, it was a very dark colour so they blended in, but I considered that they might stop some dings getting collected when it was parked, I think that it worked, possibly the only Fiesta SI or Si to have side protection strips fitted!

I had this today with an outside ambient of +15C, but car had been parked in the garage after being warmed up, for roughly 3 hours, all I noticed was an initial increase in idle RPM - no rough etc running at all.

I've tended to replace all my own discs and use Pagid, replacements do seem to last longer than the originals, well especially the rear ones. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI has disc brakes on the rear and at 34K miles they look slightly nasty, but that seems to be acceptable by MOT standards, so not quite ready for replacing yet - when I take the callipers off I can check what the inner surfaces look like and that will let me know "if it is time" for new discs. My older daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra's rear discs have looked dull/black for well over a year, but maybe that is due to some of the smart features that tend to apply the rear brakes.

Actually, from a posting you made concerning when to change the cambelt, you inserted a picture of the cambelt area of your engine and the black plastic cover which showed that your engine was built on 03/05/16, so your engine was indeed built before this "rail bolts not torqued correctly" date according to my guessimation based on build dates of engines that have failed and been reported to these VW Group motoring forums. As to when they have been failing, it does seems to be sort of random and round about the 5>6 year period.

Yes, same on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 16V, I'm guessing that this current system just runs the pump for say 4 secs then stops as its run time period has ended, as this Polo has not been used for 17 days, I tried switching the ignition off, then and again the pump ran for say 4 secs then stopped, so I repeated that once again and it again ran for say 4 secs and stopped - what I was initially wondering was, is there a lift pump circuit fuel pressure sensor/switch that allows that low pressure system to only run the pump initially until the design line pressure has been reached - but it seems that nothing like that exists or happens and the lift pump is only run for a short period, maybe a throw back to the original safety feature built into the electric fuel pump circuit of indirect injection engines, which was put in place to avoid the electric pump running continuously unless the ignition system was running - in other words, to avoid the high pressure electric injection pump running after an accident etc.

My wife's late June 2015 build VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS does not prime at "unlock" or "driver's door opening" - though her August 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V did, I've forgotten if my older daughter's late 2009 Ibiza 1.4 16V did or didn't do that.

I think the bolts slackening on the inlet pulley variator thing was only a very early model issue on the 1.2TSI 16V engines, though there has been at least one report of this happening on the exhaust pulley on the later 1.0TSI engines. Your engine could easily have been built within the period that the fuel rail/injector bolts were not correctly torqued up at the factory, maybe have a look at the sticker on the cam belt cover to see what the build date of your engine was as I think that the build date is recorded there, I've looked in the past on my wife's late June 2015 car build VW Polo. A guess at the worrying engine build period might be mid 2016 to first 1/4 2017 - but that is just my guess based on the build date of other people's engines that have had this issue. Turbo charger control valve, maybe not an issue with this engine, though it has been with the earlier 8V version and some newer 1.0TSI engines. Plenty other things to inconvenience you including the normal exhaust centre joining sleeve clamps rotting through at around 7 years, best checked annually form now on if you do your own car repairs, easy to ignore until there are noises from below!

I'd think that there are safety reasons why VW Group would not include that possibility with a manual handbrake, remember on cars with electric handbrake, under a few conditions the "hill hold" will be converted to "handbrake on", and that includes driver's seat belt removed and/or driver's door opened and engine switched off - so you can't accidentally get out of the car with only "hill hold" keeping the car from moving. Edit:- I do agree that having one car with permanent "hill hold" and one with "hill hold lite" is annoying, but that is the way things are. Another Edit:- future project could be to retro fit electric handbrake, but that would cost quite a bit.

When I removed the drive shaft nut from a 2002 VW Polo when it was 6 or 7 years old, the tang(s) on the nut did break off as intended. When I removed that nut on a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza, the tang deflected slightly and sprung back into original shape - that was not too impressive, I did replace that nut when re-assembling things - same part number.

I keep almost bumping into and reading Daily Express headed guff about huge fines being handed out if your car interior is too hot, I’d almost be willing to believe that plan, lovely extra money into the treasury. F’ knows how cars that don’t have AC will be handled, probably driver will get a good flogging! Daily Express likes to put out “good” stories.