rum4mo

If I'm correct the mechanical water pump belt is toothed and hidden from view and if it breaks it would only cause the temperature to increase, also probably breakage would end up be due to an issue with the mechanical water pump, so both would end up getting replaced.

I'm a bit sceptical about that comment, if your MY16 2015 1.4TSI is the one listed against your Octavia in "your details", you say it is an CZDA which is one of the EA211 family, so I'd expect it to have the mechanical water pump in the same position as the EA211 1.2TSI engine, ie at the "rear" of the engine driven of the exhaust(?) camshaft by a small toothed belt. The "front" mounted auxiliary belt is indeed multi grooved but it only drives other things like alternator AC pump and maybe nothing else.

That is another 1.2TSI 16V engine, in a Rapid, having suffered this fuel leak caused by sheared bolt, when the owner talked to their Skoda dealer and Skoda UK, the answer was "a know fix - £600 to you!" they had just had that car in for its service at that Skoda dealer and questioned if it was a "known fix" why it was not checked on that car while it was in for this service or any of the previous ones - no more words were spoken. I've suggested any/all of the previous ways of trying to get this money back, if they bother to go down that route I can't say. Skoda you and only you built these engines - shame on you for not bothering to accept responsibility, bad things can happen even in modern factories, but how they are resolved is important.

Oh yes my mate frequently goes there for a walk around, he tenda to mutter something about Arabs though, I'm sure that you will know why, maybe it is Saudis in particular.

I'm just trying to clear away some other reasons, seeing as I had the same thoughts while driving through Ayrshire on Sunday - maybe that road surface "brought out" bearing issues, for me time will tell! Fair enough, round about my way then, no noises from that Polo over "this" side - yet!

Aye shocking, but not as bad as the dead end diversions round about the Kingston Bridge at 23:00 on Saturday night! Not Ayrshire type top surface then - or maybe?

What brand of tyres are on it and roughly where do you live, ie to gauge outside temperature?

What age and mileage is our car also which engine and transmission? Also you have not fitted directional winter tyres recently have you? Edit:- I had a bit of that on Saturday, but there again I was driving my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI fitted with Alpin winter tyres that are directional, the noise only started when I started driving in South Ayrshire and vanished when I got back into Strathclyde area!

That is the recirc flap motor V71, for a LHD car with auto AC is p/n 8Z1 819 453B, so yes repairing or replacing that part will stop the "toc toc toc" noises and hopefully improve the air movement and the temperature of the air coming into the cabin area.

Switching off injecting fuel has been standard practise for many years at least for electronic fuel injection as it is easy to design in, my 1991 VX Cav GSI had that as did my wife's 1994 Ford Fiesta with the 1.6 Zetec engine, certain parameters have to be met, engine temperature , engine running above a certain RPM for it to be enabled and disabled just before normal idle speed so as to avoid the engine stopping when the clutch is dipped. I think that cars with Bosch K Jetronic mechanical fuel injection also had that built in, if so that would move it back to round about 1984 in the case of my Ford Orion Ghia Injection, always easy to check when these cars had fuel computers which mine had.

That "toc toc toc" noise sounds a lot like a flap motor hunting, ie it can not move to what it's positional feedback signal is the correct position - in some cars that noise gets called "the grandfather clock" noise. From the position in the car that you are hearing this noise, I'd think that it will be the recirc'ng air flap motor which in my experience does also influence air flow through the heater box, though as wino suggests the air temperature flap valve is the one that is designed to control the temperature. Can you stop the "toc toc toc" noise by demanding "recirc" - or even change that noise slightly, so that you could dismiss that flap motor?

That was what I used to consider to be the safe one, but I was reading about someone thinking that either their website had become not too handy, or their options for newer models seemed to be vague, so they had headed off to autodoc and that worked out well.

Panasonic seems to be the battery brand of choice for VW Group from factory, so I've tended to replace with same always bought online from hopefully proper sources. Duracell is my battery of choice for AA and AAA and maybe some small coil cells, but so far never for car keyfobs. Edit:- okay I messed up once for my wife's 2015 VW Polo when I got it into my head that I needed Sony batteries, that worked okay though the seller said in future there would not be any Sony coin cell batteries of this size due to Sony pulling out of that market.

Who/where is your supplier of choice for seals kits out of interest as I might replace the seals on my wife's 2015 Polo's rear callipers if they end up being sticky when I replace the pads next year?

Gulp, that sounds like being a bit expensive, though finding a garage person to sniff around for cracked joints might have cost just as much!

What you might want to try is, demand Hi, wait maybe 10 seconds, demand Lo, wait maybe 10 seconds - then repeat that at least 10 times. What can happen is, because these flap motors are not being exercised frequently over their complete range of movement, is that the positional feedback potentiometer's wiper and/or resistive track gets dirty and then its game over as the controller has lost control. Doing what I've suggested can in that situation, force the wiper/track to clean up a bit and return the flap motor to being fully operational, for a hour/day/week/month/year. I've only had that happen on my previous VW Passat - and that one failed Hi - which is okay in colder weather, in warmer weather opening the windows slightly worked a bit but annoying on long fast journeys - crunch time came on a long fast journey in very hot weather, stopping every 200miles was the only way to survive, and that forced me to man up and fit the new flap motor that had been living in the boot for too long. I find that VW Group will not accept any electrical part correctly supplied as a warehouse etc order back unused nowadays, which I can understand. Edit:- I'm a bit confused as to why the parts department need a fault code before they order, unless they are trying to protect your mechanic, I just order all my parts by their part numbers and they happily supply me, all good money for them.

There used to be a fad for swopping these screws for SS ones, which ebay always seemed to be selling, I did that to our previous 2 cars - okay discs back and front, but same issue - also a spot of copper ease etc stops this happening - after getting the screws out. If it bothers you a lot in the future and you have left that hub without a drum retaining screw, just buy a threaded "wheel locating dowel" - VW at least sell one, screwing that in will keep the drum/hub wheel holes lined up until you have a bolt or two in. My old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion came from factory with no front disc locating screws (no holes in discs or hub), but it did come with a plastic "wheel locating threaded dowel pin" - and, if you(I) kept everything nice and clean, putting a front wheel back on was a complete bummer of a job - unless I fitted that threaded dowel pin.

Have you checked up online to see how you "fit and set" both the earlier version and the latest version - if you had/have done that you might have got away with fitting an aftermarket version, and also be ready to know how to fit the new VW Group latest version. I can't remember the exact procedures now, but how you fit them changes with the types - I've only ever had to replace 2 on one car, both an older type and then the newer type. Edit:- I'm sure that there is a guide covering "older" and "newer" brake pedal switch "fitting and setting" in this forum, at least there used to be. Most of the threads that go cold seem to be for the later models of Fabia where the switch has moved into the brake master cylinder and is a Hall Effect device - and I suspect most of the present failings for them are trapped/crushed wires.

Just proves that atmospheric pressure really is round about 14.5psi. Sorry I've checked what the expected boost range is.

I'm sure that I bought a Draper deep impact socket - and that worked, though I've listed that as being a Laser Tools 0954 - can only guess that I have checked the OD of the Laser Tools offering and found it to be exactly the same as the Draper one I bought as Laser Tools tend to buy in many tools from other sources. Bottom line, I knew that I would, some time, need to get these nuts off, so ended up at a tool stall at a market, and bought that Draper branded one - and it worked okay, on 2 cars over time.

Maybe get the VCDS person you contact to change the service strategy from variable to fixed then in the coming years you will be able to reset as said above without involving anyone else? I'm not sure if Carista now includes the ability to change from fixed to variable yet, you could check that out on their website. I've got one car that I've never bothered to change to fixed servicing, and that age/platform of VW Group car can not be easily reset using VCDS but that I think was due to a change that VCDS needed to make to benefit newer and other platforms - though Carista sorts that out easily, or I could if I changed that car to fixed servicing!

Nissen are okay suppliers of coolant radiators and AC condensers and evaporators it seems. Looks like your one is leaking where the end parts get clamped onto the centre core, Ford Europe were early adopters of using that "new" design back in 1980's most new cars required a new coolant radiator and a new heater matrix within the first year of warranty, but these later ones will not fail so frequently I'd think - very annoying when the heater matrix leaks in your almost new car, been there done that - twice with the same car, but no failures since then(1982)!

I’d say it’s just the fragile gearboxes that end up in these cars. My wife’s 2015 Polo 1.2TSI started doing that after the dealership sorted out a gearbox mounting issue, ie perhaps they “thrashed” it to confirm my reported issue, or did similar after replacing the mounting.

When said I checked it and it showed slight signs of blackening, I was using that to confirm that the bulb had not been replaced with a new one, its light output was not being impaired in much if any way, the claim being made by the MOT place, was that the light had failed and the bulb had been replaced. At certain times of year it is impossible to submit a car that is clean, especially the rear end of a hatch back, and this was one of these times, ie winter.

MIL I believe stands for Malfunction Indicator Lamp/Light. I've had an issue with a garage once concerning a failed number plate bulb, I had handed the car in slightly dirty and there was no evidence of fingers/hands/tools being anywhere near the number plate fitting, plus later when I got home, I could see that the bulb was not new as it had that slightly blackish appearance that comes with age+use. That left a slightly sour taste in my mouth and I never went back to that place, okay the fitting of the bulb was "free" but the bulb cost quite a bit for a basic wedge style bulb, really no need for that to be happening, just greed from someone.