rum4mo

Same sort of thing can be due to the gearbox top, or maybe more correctly, the mounting on the LHS of the gearbox being a bit duff, I had that on a 2015 6C Polo 1.2TSI - that car still used the same/similar top and lower mountings and probably the same RHS or engine mounting. Grabbing the engine and trying to rock it fore<>aft proved something was a bit mushy.

Maybe your best plan would be to remove the auxiliary belt while the engine is warm up or hot and then see if that noise has disappeared, if so then it has to be one of the driven components. Or before doing that, while it is making that noise, switch on the headlights and rear screen heater - if it now makes more noise then it will just be alternator bearings. Something else to try is, switch AC completely off, ie switch to ECO mode, is that noise still happened, if it is then switch on the AC and demand cooling, is the noise changing at all to indicate that it could be the AC compressor. After that there are a few rollers and belt tensioner to consider, but you could check them sort of, while you had the auxiliary belt off and the engine stopped. One other outside possibility is the EVAP valve being activated, but I don't think that that happens during idling, unplugging the EVAP power lead would be one way to check if it was that, though normally that makes a beeep beep beeping noise when the engine has warmed up and the engine speed is above idle speed. Finally, does the auto stop/start still operate, if not then check the voltage across the battery at idle and at increased engine revs. Edit:- that final comment concerning the battery voltage, should have included that if your battery is dying, then even at idle the alternator will still be trying to charge it back up and so putting a heavy load demand on the alternator and its belt etc - so while that might point to alternator bearings, it could also be getting made worse because the battery is in poor health.

In my case yes, just very bad workshop advice and an extremely "big" volume difference between MIN and MAX. With cars with the usual "ball shaped" header tank the difference in volume is much less and even a much lower percentage of the system capacity, I'd think that VW Group carefully thought out what works for MIN and MAX and I'd never bother overfilling as I'd expect that some would get discharged out via the pressure release valve in the cap. As @roottoot asked, really.

Just another comment, tale, I replaced the coolant in my 2011 S4, and the official workshop manual said that on refilling, fill the system up to MAX which on that car's tank, is very high! Now I considered that this might be a proper workshop's way of "filling once" after the system had been opened and that any trapped air would get replaced by some of the excess coolant and so the level would drop back in use. So, getting a bit concerned that after a long fast run, the level had dropped back down to just above halfway between MIN - MAX so when cold and before the return trip the next day, I refilled back up to MAX, got home and the level had again dropped back a bit - but on close inspection, there was traces of dried out coolant on top of the coolant tank, so what had been happening was that the liquid had expanded and forced some out via the pressure cap, after that no more dropping of fluid level - just like it was prior to me opening up that system.

I have 5 1 litre ex-G12evo containers at the side of my garage filled with G12, been there less than 12 months, still wondering what is best option - no labelling now on these containers, I understand your concerns!!

Module 09, on your car is an earlier version of Central Electronics than that on the 2009 SEAT Ibiza, later units were given the description Body Control Module, ie BCM but its task is still the same although the later BCM contained a couple of subsystems, so maybe the question is, did VW Group slightly mess up with the built in controller in all these Module 09 at that period in time, and so late 6Q1 937 049 F shared similar issues as 6R0 937 087 B. Back to "how can you tell what build level, issue a Module 09 Central Electronics is currently at from scanning it?" - it is the 4 digit group at the right hand side of the "Component : " line, which in your case is "2S36". Edit:- sorry it has taken so long to wind my brain/memory back 5 years and find print outs of "before" and "after" for that late 2009 SEAT Ibiza which was sold on in August 2019.

To date I have not spotted any information that says if this (Golf R version of mounting) brings with it any adverse noise/vibration/harshness issue to such a level that some might not want to consider this, with the tooling that I have bought, it is possible to replace that mounting without completely removing that lower link/wishbone, so hopefully avoid a full 4 wheel re-alignment. I have removed the front suspension on a similar car, a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza and making sure everything was refitted back into its original position left that car's suspension behaving okay ie without any unusual tyre wear or steering issues, which was good!

An alternative to replacing the arm is to get the torn bush pressed out and a new one pressed in, a tool of doing that appears on ebay at times. Typically listed for use on a VW Golf, but exactly the same mounting bush.

BCM is the module that controls some of the power distribution and it is it that forces "unwanted" supplies to sleep to minimise battery drain as well as switching of some or most loads. No it is not coding that can be done using VCDS, it is the firmware that gets re-flashed and so when you check that module with VCDS the S/W issue gets changed after a re-flash. Edit:- being able to identify any changes to S/W is quite handy as you can see if the dealership has carried out updates during servicing of cars still under warranty. I asked the service receptionist at the first SEAT dealership I took that car into and he "confirmed" that the techs do not know the S/W changes or if they have been successfully made and the only way that they keep track of S/W updates is by logging them locally - that must be BS as the displayed present S/W issue/build must or should mean something to them if VW Group bother about configuration control. So in answer to my question to them "don't you know if controllers have been updated already as you must need to be able to do that so that you know what route to take to solve known issues?" they just said "no, if in doubt we would just request that S/W update and the online machine only confirms that an update has been passed down to that controller". Sounds like fun but I'd hope the workshop techs know a lot more than that! Yes, very annoying having a car and wondering if it will start after not being used for a few days, after the first unsuccessful fix, where just the clockspring assembly was replaced because they thought it might be causing this problem, we went away on holiday and left this car at the airport carpark, but I put a jump pack in the car, on our return, the car unlocked and almost started once, but not the second time, I trusted it to start and released the key too soon, but the jump pack worked! Sorting this car out became a battle that I was not willing to give up on!

Maybe a "red herring", but I had a problem with the battery draining on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 BXW, and after exhausting all, in my mind possible reasons, came to the conclusion that it was a BCM coding issue, eventually I found a SEAT dealership that was willing to check that car and submit a "global help" technical request to SEAT "mothership" and that resulted in them being directed to a BCM S/W patch that had been raised back in maybe 2011 and so lost from the dealership's "sight" as it was so old and considered that all cars affected would have already been submitted complaining about this issue years ago. Applying that BCM patch to that car solved that problem. The main reason maybe that that SEAT dealership had been able to help me where another SEAT dealership could only replace possible faulty assemblies, would be down to them having to discover this issue with a similar aged VW Polo 1.4 BXW and solving it, very little is known about this issue or the S/W patch offered back in maybe 2011. The reason that I am posting is that all of these cars are 2009 with a 1.4 BWX engine so possibly also have the same p/n of BCM fitted - and the 2 cars I mentioned did not show any logged faults, they just drained the battery too quickly if not used daily or every other day. Just something to consider if no actual faults can be found elsewhere on that car.

The owner of the SEAT Leon 1.4TSI with this leaking fuel issue found that in USA and Canada there is a safety recall for this, okay we do not live in USA or Canada, but this is not been dealt with over there as a normal recall but a safety recall, so maybe that makes a difference and VW Group in Europe should be recalling all affected cars for checking FOC as well as paying for all cars that have suffered failed bolts. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCRIT-20V648-7026.pdf Edit:- note that the bolt tightening procedure is now 8Nm + 90 degrees, I've not seen the "+90 degrees" included for these bolts before now.

If you have a "battery" concern, maybe fork out on a small jump pack as that will be cheaper than a compact capacitor based one, you can lock the car up without any battery being fitted, the drivers door - or maybe in some cases, the passenger door will have a mechanical lock barrel so the key blade will fit and lock that one, all others should have a small softish rubber cover on the rear face of the door at door handle level, if you remove them you can insert the key blade and flick the locking mechanism, replace the cover and close the doors, they will then be locked but without the deadlock being "on". Unlocking is just unlock the door that has a key lock and open the others from the inside using the handle. Personally, if you really have a "battery" concern I'd just buy a small jump pack and leave it in the car, if everything is okay car wise and battery wise, 3 weeks is not a long time to leave a car unused. Edit:- I had a "battery draining potentially" situation once when needing to leave a car at the airport for only one week, I charged my old small cheap jump pack and left it in the car, that car did let me down, it turned over once and once only, so the jump pack was hauled out and that worked very well, saved what would be an annoying wait for the AA if they are allowed to get into controlled carparks - maybe these car park controllers have their own "helpers at a cost".

Most of the time, parts being sold branded as VW Group parts, like service parts at least, will also have the branding of the company that supplied them - maybe not the same as the manufacturer in all cases but in most cases, the only ones that have not had that recently, in my experience, was the air filter for the later versions of the 1.4 16V petrol engines and maybe the air filter on these 1.2TSI 16V engines, though I might be wrong about the 1.2TSI 16V engines, it is coming up for 4 years since I replaced the air filter on my wife's 2015 VW Polo and it turns out that I've bought a Mann filter element for the next service, VW Group tend to use a manufacturer that has a presence in Germany, like Mann, Mahle, Hengst or Knecht for air, pollen and oil filters.

I had that issue back in 2007ish, with a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V - a petrol engine, I took it to an exhaust specialist in Falkirk, Stainless Creations is the name, they messed up the first replacing of that flexi, but got it right second time when I supplied the exact correct flexi repair section, that repair was still "like new" when we moved that car on in 2015 at 105K miles. These what must be dealership prices will probably be correct - but I'd hope very few people end up getting them to sort it out, there will be must cheaper full exhaust replacement parts available as aftermarket parts. I think that the original repair to my wife's Polo was just under £100 which sounded very attractive when compared with my only option at that time for a replacement front section - which was VW Group dealership! Edit:- correct the name of the firm I used, and they still exist and have a website. Another Edit:- that was not Arnold Clarke that you used was it?

Typically nowadays, the easy way is to remove the headlight assembly, normally there will be just a few screws that need removing and the headlight is then forced/pushed forward out of its mounting in its carrier, and then out, refitting it into the same position should be possible but that might not mean that the head/dip bulb position is back in its original position due to slight differences in bulb assembly, so I'm guessing that Skoda will advise that this is always a workshop task - but that does not seem to tie in with "all cars mandated light bulbs must be able to be replaced at the roadside". My wife has a 2015 VW Polo and I have removed both headlights and checked how to replace any bulbs in its headlight assembly even although the main/dip and DRL are LED.

@nta16, maybe VW Group revised the air filter service period since I replaced the air filter on that 2015 VW Polo, and your wife's car's year 4 service, but as @AGFalco said "air filter off to replace plugs" it does make sense just to change it then especially to a DIYer, for a main dealer they should be quite happy to add in some more labour time and ££s to replace it at a later service. I "bumped into" a genuine VW Group air filter being sold at an extremely good price on ebay recently, so ended up buying it a bit early - looks like the genuine thing!

Well that SEAT Leon 1.4TSI owner got the "we can't repair that" from the garage that the AA dropped it off at, so the nearest SEAT workshop collected it and discovered that it was "bolt 4" that had come loose and lost its head and was causing fuel to leak from injector 4 - that is the bolt nearest the HP pump, so that makes a change from the usual bolt. Parts price quote was £90.38 and 2 hours labour to strip down. That owner is reporting this as a safety defect on the GOV website - which ever one that is.

I'm sure, or thought the air filter change point was also 4 years for that engine in a 2015 VW Polo - as I replaced that along with the spark plugs at the year 4 service.

There was another one yesterday, a 2017 SEAT Leon 1.4TSI, AA could only move the car once and so to the local non VW Group workshop, that car is obviously out of warranty but has full SEAT dealership service history from the local but 15 miles away dealership. Probably due to annoyance etc, that person walked into his SEAT dealership today to have a chat with the sales team, "we have never heard about this happening before". I suggested that he saved time and further annoyance and let that non VW Group workshop complete this repair so that he can get back to using it to get to work. Not good, he is going to chat to his local service department - just because, why not, spread your pain! Edit:- on another VW forum, the guy that runs it is a tech in a VW Group Indie workshop, and they have not heard or seen any EA211 engined cars coming in with this issue, so it seems most owners take the only action they can to get mobile again and that is to get their car to their nearest workshop after the fuel rail bolt has snapped - and it sounds like 9.5+ times out of 10 that means a non VW Group workshop.

Another 1.2TSI engine with this issue, a December 2016 reg'd Fabia with the 110PS version of this engine, recovery service conditions meant that it could only be taken to a local non VAG workshop, cost for repair and parts £390, that owner intends to try to get some redress for costs from Skoda as that car has had all its servicing at a Skoda workshop, but feedback suggest that VW Group are not interested in this sort of thing.

Yes, the immobiliser is built into the "pod". Recoding is needed to enable the CC as long as the correct wiring exists, in other words probably a small bit of rewiring then re-coding is needed, there will be "how to do it" threads are on some VW Group forums.

The felt stuff is just thermal insulation - in case you are wondering how to remove that plastic "lump", I seem to remember that it gets clamped down over the top of the battery, so to remove it, after removing the earth terminal and slackening off the +VE post clamp, feed a largish screwdriver down through the hole in each of these clamps, maybe 3 in total, press down at that point to relieve the tension on the clamp and pull the screwdriver handle towards the centre of the battery - doing that should force that clamp out and so free, repeat for the other 1 or 2. Edit:- the top section with the wires hinges back first it also has a small clip(s).

I'd think that if this annoyed you enough, you could order in a matching lock barrel for the RHS front door then remove the existing cover, cut a slot on its lower surface so that it could be "flicked" off with a key blade, then remove the dummy lock barrel - or lock blank, which ever you want to call it, and fit the new matching key lock lock barrel in its place, I think that there is probably a small pin and washer that needs removed as well before fitting the barrel in, just remember not to completely remove the barrel securing screw from the door rear face area as it will probably drop down inside the door before it unscrews out beyond the "flush" point in the outer door skin - when that happens the easy way round it is said to be to buy a new screw. Years ago I bought 3 lock barrel blanks and new covers so that I could remove BOTH from my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion and the driver's side one from my wife's 2002 VW Polo - but never got round to doing that "upgrade" - I think that was a smarter move than going with the flow and removing all side door lock barrels, though in 13 years neither car ever suffered from remote central locking failure or car battery failure.

I even bought a tool made by Laser Tools to "yank" rear light clusters off VW Group (and other) cars, the similar aged VW Polo has a horrible special big screw that holds the rear clusters in - not as easy to remove as the plastic wing nuts on previous version of Polo, plus access through the hatch in the trim fabric is not good even for people with small hands. For previous models of some of these VW Group cars you could buy a replacement gasket for the bulb mounting section, SEAT seem to use Valeo to make their rear clusters and when you add in some "classy" shapes, the end result does tend to require an application of clear sealant where the plastic parts are meant to have been heat welded in production.

In any VAG cars that I have had with that button, I've always assumed that its sole purpose was to lock/unlock the doors from you sitting in the driver's seat, and to only operate the first stage of door locking and so leaving them NOT deadlocked. That button, so me has become more useful now that cars are being sent out with "anti carjacking" enabled, ie global locking when moving away and staying locked until individual doors get unlocked by opening them from the inside - something that you would not be able to do if they were deadlocked - as well as the motion sensor triggering the alarm on cars fitted with a car alarm. Maybe something that you don't know able yet is that you can lock any door that does not have a key lock by removing the soft rubber bung from the rear facing door surface and flicking the manual locking that hides under that soft rubber bung - then closing that door, though that is meant as a back up for if the central locking system fails or the battery has failed or has been removed.