rum4mo

Just makes the pessimistic bit of me wonder if this will fail in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI before the first suspension coil spring breaks - I've already got almost enough G12evo 50% mix coolant left from when I replaced the coolant in my car though - and a Draper Vacuum Coolant Refill Kit!!

Sounds a bit like the plastic casing is cracked or distorted, and that will get replaced by your workshop I'd think, so I'd lay off loading any gunge into the clean coolant system.

I plan to replace the voided TCA rear bushes with non voided ones - when the need/time comes, but that is on a Polo 1.2TSI, many many years back, when people had just started to need to replace the console bushes in their Fabia/Polo/Ibizas, someone, probably Ross, issued a cautionary warning concerning NVH issues when fitting the Cupra non voided console bushes to cars with TDI engines, I got them fitted to my wife's 2002 Polo with the 1.4 75PS BBY petrol engine when the original voided console bushes ended up getting torn, and everything was positive absolutely no extra unwanted NVH issues, just sorted out console bushes along with much increased feeling from steering inputs.

That was the first thing that I retro fitted to my wife's 1994 Ford Fiesta with the 1.6 Zetec engine, it was a very dark colour so they blended in, but I considered that they might stop some dings getting collected when it was parked, I think that it worked, possibly the only Fiesta SI or Si to have side protection strips fitted!

I had this today with an outside ambient of +15C, but car had been parked in the garage after being warmed up, for roughly 3 hours, all I noticed was an initial increase in idle RPM - no rough etc running at all.

I've tended to replace all my own discs and use Pagid, replacements do seem to last longer than the originals, well especially the rear ones. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI has disc brakes on the rear and at 34K miles they look slightly nasty, but that seems to be acceptable by MOT standards, so not quite ready for replacing yet - when I take the callipers off I can check what the inner surfaces look like and that will let me know "if it is time" for new discs. My older daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra's rear discs have looked dull/black for well over a year, but maybe that is due to some of the smart features that tend to apply the rear brakes.

Actually, from a posting you made concerning when to change the cambelt, you inserted a picture of the cambelt area of your engine and the black plastic cover which showed that your engine was built on 03/05/16, so your engine was indeed built before this "rail bolts not torqued correctly" date according to my guessimation based on build dates of engines that have failed and been reported to these VW Group motoring forums. As to when they have been failing, it does seems to be sort of random and round about the 5>6 year period.

Yes, same on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 16V, I'm guessing that this current system just runs the pump for say 4 secs then stops as its run time period has ended, as this Polo has not been used for 17 days, I tried switching the ignition off, then and again the pump ran for say 4 secs then stopped, so I repeated that once again and it again ran for say 4 secs and stopped - what I was initially wondering was, is there a lift pump circuit fuel pressure sensor/switch that allows that low pressure system to only run the pump initially until the design line pressure has been reached - but it seems that nothing like that exists or happens and the lift pump is only run for a short period, maybe a throw back to the original safety feature built into the electric fuel pump circuit of indirect injection engines, which was put in place to avoid the electric pump running continuously unless the ignition system was running - in other words, to avoid the high pressure electric injection pump running after an accident etc.

My wife's late June 2015 build VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS does not prime at "unlock" or "driver's door opening" - though her August 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V did, I've forgotten if my older daughter's late 2009 Ibiza 1.4 16V did or didn't do that.

I think the bolts slackening on the inlet pulley variator thing was only a very early model issue on the 1.2TSI 16V engines, though there has been at least one report of this happening on the exhaust pulley on the later 1.0TSI engines. Your engine could easily have been built within the period that the fuel rail/injector bolts were not correctly torqued up at the factory, maybe have a look at the sticker on the cam belt cover to see what the build date of your engine was as I think that the build date is recorded there, I've looked in the past on my wife's late June 2015 car build VW Polo. A guess at the worrying engine build period might be mid 2016 to first 1/4 2017 - but that is just my guess based on the build date of other people's engines that have had this issue. Turbo charger control valve, maybe not an issue with this engine, though it has been with the earlier 8V version and some newer 1.0TSI engines. Plenty other things to inconvenience you including the normal exhaust centre joining sleeve clamps rotting through at around 7 years, best checked annually form now on if you do your own car repairs, easy to ignore until there are noises from below!

I'd think that there are safety reasons why VW Group would not include that possibility with a manual handbrake, remember on cars with electric handbrake, under a few conditions the "hill hold" will be converted to "handbrake on", and that includes driver's seat belt removed and/or driver's door opened and engine switched off - so you can't accidentally get out of the car with only "hill hold" keeping the car from moving. Edit:- I do agree that having one car with permanent "hill hold" and one with "hill hold lite" is annoying, but that is the way things are. Another Edit:- future project could be to retro fit electric handbrake, but that would cost quite a bit.

When I removed the drive shaft nut from a 2002 VW Polo when it was 6 or 7 years old, the tang(s) on the nut did break off as intended. When I removed that nut on a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza, the tang deflected slightly and sprung back into original shape - that was not too impressive, I did replace that nut when re-assembling things - same part number.

I keep almost bumping into and reading Daily Express headed guff about huge fines being handed out if your car interior is too hot, I’d almost be willing to believe that plan, lovely extra money into the treasury. F’ knows how cars that don’t have AC will be handled, probably driver will get a good flogging! Daily Express likes to put out “good” stories.

As @jars said, in my experience of a 2002 Polo and a late 2009 Ibiza. Both TRW steering gear though.

I was lucky, as my one needed sorting out just before the start of restrictions for Covid, I acted quickly, have a passport so it all went smoothly, but an exwork friend who was 6 months younger and did not have a passport had a hard time getting his one sorted out. My paper one was a bit of a mess, it was only 22 years old as it got replaced when we bought another house, kept in a wallet at all times wrecked it and its sleeve! Reminding us about losing C1, makes me wonder if the husband of a friend of my wife is legal when he drives his big motorhome - I'll need to ask him!

Remember one thing, don't feel that you need to buy a VW Group extra key, VX and some others used the same ranges as VW Group, so matching a picture to what is selling on ebay worked for me twice. They are McGard parts, but others available on ebay have worked for me and I always use a torque wrench and wheels get swopped about Summer<>Winter each year. Once you have looked long enough on places like ebay you will be able to get to know the VX and other's number/letter equivalent to your VW Group one, sometimes the marking on the "top" end of the key is not too clear, not punched deep enough - but it should be there, unless it is an aftermarket replacement key, though for obvious reasons they too, in my limited experience come identified with a letter or number.

Oh well, maybe a plan for when I replace it on that 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion had them, I don't think that the 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V had them, its exhaust was still okayish when we moved it on at 13 years and 105K miles, as was that 2000 VW Passat 4Motion - except for the centre joining pieces, they failed at maybe 10 years.

My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI ended up with a torn wishbone bush by its second birthday, it got replaced FOC under warranty, I considered at the time that it would just be due to potholes as these bushes have been used in other models, ie Golf for quite some time, also across the VW Group marques in equivalent cars to Golf and Fabia. I've considered fitting the Golf R and Audi TT solid rubber version if/when it fails the next time, but now coming up for 6 years later, both sides still look okay. Edit:- exhaust centre joining sleeve clamps are also a regular failure after maybe 8 years - I've already bought a replacement original VW Group part very cheaply to be ready for that!

Maybe my wording was wrong, but I was meaning that that had not happened to me (yet), but I have read about it happening to others in this forum.

So far, I've been lucky in that I've only ever seen pictures of brake discs ending up like that in other threads in this forum! A production issue maybe.

I thought that the number in that position has only 3 uses or versions, 0 = not sided, 1 = LHD and 2 = RHD, so I wonder what 8 could mean, or has VW Group numbering moved on a lot since I first looked into it? Maybe there were a couple of other numbers to denote hatch or estate, thought I could be wrong there. In this case I would think that they all would have a "0" in that position of a part number that would be "not sided" or "not handed".

Maybe if your mechanic is close by, leave removing these calliper guide pins/bolts to him as it sort of might be that your car has no calliper carrier bracket and so the callipers bolt directly onto the "hub bracket" - and stripping the threads in them can be quite easy, so best avoided if you can.

Seeing as you have pointed out where the number/letter is on the bolt key, I'll add that you should find the same number/letter on the end of the bolt shank, I'll only saying that to complete the answer, though it kind of sounds like the OP don't have a bolt key so not much chance of seeing the number on the end of the bolt shank without using one of these specialist locking wheel nut/bolt remover bits, by which time you will either just fit a new basic bolt, or buy a new set of locking wheel bolts. Edit:- @bry617, when you think about it, these locking wheel bolts are meant to be security devices, so not a good idea to have their "unique" code showing while they are fitted to a car.

When buying some parts from ECP, I added a set of stainless steel shims to try to fit to my wife's August 2015 VW Polo rear brakes, we were lucky as at that point in manufacture, at least VW in South Africa, were still fitting TRW brakes, so as much earlier cars, in my case a 2002 VW Polo, had these stainless steel pieces fitted to the rear brakes, I'm willing to take a gamble in trying to fit them when I clean the brakes up this year. As said, nothing beats cleaning up brakes annually, I'm lazy so only start cleaning after 2 years, then again at 4 years, then every year after that. Anyone waiting until their brakes start dragging has missed a trick I'd think. Main dealer servicing normally does not include cleaning up the brakes, that task is an extra money item.

Knowing that would spoil the game! I always thought that the base spirit, which modern cars probably don't like, is the same across the refined spirit industry and is probably defined by BS or other standards, the additive packages - there does not seem to be any regulation or standards that I've noticed/read, it is all up to branding loyalty or something.