rum4mo

Glysantin BASF make the coolant for VW Group, G65 is to VW spec TL 774 – L which is G12evo Glysantin BASF make the coolant for VW Group, GG40 is to VW spec TL 774 – J which is G13 Glysantin BASF make the coolant for VW Group, G40 is to VW spec TL 774 – G which is G12++ Glysantin BASF make the coolant for VW Group, G30 is to VW spec TL 774 – D/F which is G12 So, for your car I'd think that G40 is the "oldest/earliest" version of Glysantin that is best to use. Currently, as far as I have found, Comma do not provide any later version of coolants for VW Group, but when they do, as before it will have the name of the BASF coolant in it, which will be G65. The better plan will be to find out where the coolant leak is and fix it.

If it is an EA211 engine, ie 1.2TSI or 1.0TSI, then it is only the washer that needs replacing, though from memory that crush washer costs same or more than the previous plug-washer combo used on some other engines. Though I tend to keep on buying these washers from a VW Group parts department. Edit:- initially I did buy a new/spare plug as well as washers, but that was only for convenience in case I dropped the fitted plug and washer into my oil basin/catcher, ie so that I could fit the spare plug and new washer etc while waiting to retrieve the previous plug and washer from the oil while decanting it into an container prior to disposal.

I think that some marques use/need these washers, like VW Polo and same SEAT Ibiza, but Skoda do not, that if it is true, and I have changed rear dampers on both a Polo and an Ibiza, is why these dampers came with new washers as they are common to all these cars when buying aftermarket parts. Edit:- that picture of the other side is obscene - needs some waxoyl in there I'd think!

Have you performed "basic settings" using VCDS? As well as lining up the "new" motor assemblies racks correctly with the recirc levers racks?

That is not normal, though I would not have expected a main dealer to feel the need to replace the cambelt on that engine just now because they were reselling it, these cambelts on that engine only require replacing if showing signs of failure or unusual wear, so that means that they are, as far as I know, now not a service item as they were in the dark past. Now, if they did indeed actually fit a new cam belt kit, I wonder if they slightly messed up the static timing - or was this car's engine always running like this and they tried replacing the cam belt as a good excuse to correct the factory timing? Edit:- that mileage is not unusual for a car of that age, my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS is only at 37,000 miles and it still runs okay, so I'd doubt if it is clogging up of the inlet ports due to the expected direct injection issues that seems that happen more under certain driving conditions - it has been said. Another Edit:- it might need some looking at or logging using something like VCDS to see if there is any mismatch with requested and actual turbo delivery - that is just a guess, some people have needed a new turbo due to wastegate control issues, not many I think, but still some. I'm guessing that you are not getting any warning lights coming on, there are of course many other possibilities including fuelling errors/issues. Maybe treat it to a full tank of something like Shell "special UL+" to see if using that or running a tank of that through the system improves things.

I had some bad thoughts about that area of these cars Fabia/Polo/Ibiza when I replaced a pair of dampers on a late 2009 Ibiza when it was 8 years old - again used in Scottish winters, though at that time my concerns were more about the "what ifs" if the bolt seized in the captive nut and I ended up with that rotating, that severe corrosion then failure of that alloy top mounting was not in my thoughts at all - horrible! Now to get round to checking the condition of that same mounting on my wife's August 2015 Polo!

Same owners ie GM, which eventually was SAABs undoing sadly! There was a SAAB 96 L on Banger and Cash last week, a 1972 one, clean as a whistle, it made £12,300, I'd doubt if my mate's one will ever get back into that condition, though it now can use lead free fuel.

What a good idea for my next "tools" purchase, I've thought about getting that sort of thing many times in the past but not yet blundered upon a good selection of them. I did buy a mechanics stethoscope maybe years ago - but it sort of dematerialised when we moved house roughly 25 years ago, along with 1 out of a group of 4 Iridium spark plugs for my good old and sadly missed Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4, my wife's binocs and her camera(I was BTCC'ng the day before the move!), I bought a new mechanics stethoscope a few years ago and I still know exactly where it is - but that does not necessarily mean that I don't "need" one of these listening kits!

I bought one of these cheap but maybe useful 12V digital volt meters via ebay, the type that just plug into the "ciggy lighter" socket, really just to find out what was happening wrt the charging voltage in my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI mainly. Having that connected at all times allowed me to spot any changes in behaviour in charging voltage - and that car ended up having a step change "happen" a few months later. That car during lockdown was frequently left connected to a CTEK smart charger/maintenance unit, and gets a "recond" charging profile once a year - in Spring time, it has dropped back from a rated 640A CCA EN to recently 475A CCA EN, so in a month's time I'll give it a "recond" charge and check the CCA a day later using a CTEK battery tester, which is a Midtronics designed item for CTEK. I changed that battery's serial number maybe 6 months ago to see if doing that prompted a change in the charging behaviour, and it did for maybe a couple of months - and even now the charging does start to fall back, initially prior to changing the serial number, the battery was being heavily charged at all times, so that means 14.7V > 15.0V at all times, underpower or on overrun. I've bought a new "next size up" AGM battery and a new battery tray and insulator, I had bought all that by the beginning of December, just in case, but so far no need to replace that 640A CCA EN EFB car mileage is just under 40K miles. One big regret I have is, I did not bother to record all these battery stats shown in a posting above BEFORE changing the battery's serial number, a bad move/mistake! Edit:- the cheap plug in volt meter that I bought via ebay only cost £5, I've ended up almost not feeling very much in control if I drive either of my cars without that volt meter plugged in!! Another thing with that 12V volt meter - and that is mainly how you should describe it, it needs above a certain voltage to switch on or stay on, so normally it does stay on while cranking the engine, if it switches off momentarily while cranking over the engine, that is an indication that the battery voltage had dipped a bit too low, or lower than normal. On that "needing a minimum voltage to operate", my first CTEK charger that I bought was a Charger/Tester, so it could perform some basic test or tests so that you could assess a car battery's general health, sounds like a good idea/feature, the only problem was, well at least with my daughter's old late 2009 Ibiza, while the car could start faultlessly, the battery had aged so much that when I ran a cranking test on that car using that CTEK Charger/Tester - instead of issuing a Green/Amber/Red light to indicate the battery health - the CTEK just switched off! Buying a cheap moving coil Voltmeter from Maplin provided me with a better way to check for battery voltage during cranking!(Maplin was handy.)

I've still got the "clutch changing kit", ie short slide hammer with adaptor to fit shaft and a set of clips for the clutch - unused, they were bought just in case, but car, a 1991 Cav GSI 4X4 2000 16V, was just too reliable and never ended up needing a new clutch!

I like Knipex stuff always good quality, slim and strong! For these "constant tension" pipe clips, I bought a Laser Tools version which is just a "rack" sort of tool, originally for taking the large constant tension clips of the charge pipe on EA211 1.2TSI engine, it also works very well, and as it is short/squat/flat, it came in very handy when slacking off the heater hose on my B8 S4 to slide back far enough to bleed the air of the system, using normal long handled pliers was just too awkward as these clips were partly under an overhang with the firewall in front of them. I've also got pliers that have swivel inserts on the jaws, they were bought for something else, but work on these clips very well, though that pair of pliers were cheap and nasty, but maybe good enough for long enough for a DIYer!! No answer on the extremely small sheared off bolt head other than it looks like a wheel bolt for a roughly 1/6 scale same car!

Looking in from standing in front of the open bonnet, you will find it by looking at the method that the end of the gearbox is fixed/hung from the car's frame, maybe beside the battery tray or slightly covered by the battery tray.

I've just checked, at least for VW Polo 1.2TSI, "AT" is used now on cars with DSG and also for Diesel engined cars, so probably the "AT" is stiffer than the "AS" - again, currently it is now the "AS" version that is listed against 1.0/1.2TSI engined Polos with manual trans. It is possible to view the part number of the upper mounting currently fitted, tricky, but possible, that was the first thing that I did on my wife's 2015 Polo to establish which version was fitted before it was handed in for warranty work.

If you are paying for this repair, I'd strongly advise you to discuss this with your dealership, even still do so if it is a warranty repair, as this change of part version did seem to come from VW Group, but from which or all I can't say. I've either forgotten or never got round to finding out what the difference from the "AS" to the "AT" was as at that time, the talk was always "get the AS version fitted" which was said to be the suggestion from VW Group HQ.

In the case of my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, the mounting was changed from "AR" to "AS". I'm not too sure how these versions vary in stiffness ie "AR" > "AS" > "AT", "AR" has been "normal petrol engines only" ie excluding the 1.8T, since the launch of Fabia which predates 9N Polo, "AS" was same but for "diesel engines only, I think charged ones only" since the launch of Fabia. Edit:- some similar cars from one of the VW Group marques were fitted with 6C0 199 555 B, maybe even just Fabia MK3, I've forgotten, which by the part number change infers that that part had been updated during the "6C" build period, while all the earlier/other versions were still being fitted to certain versions of these cars.

I read that the official "VW Group repair pathway for warranty repairs" was to remove upper mounting, absolutely cover with what in my case looked a lot like Copper Grease - and that meant covering the rubber part with this stuff, and refit. Now that worked very well - for a few days only! I only worked out that they had used Copper Grease because there was signs of it around the engine bay - then I looked down at the mounting!

My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS started making swishy/rubbery noises while was under UK new car warranty, VW dealership eventually replaced the "petrol engined" gearbox mounting for the "diesel TDI engined" equivalent, and that sorted that noise out. One way to try to find out where the issue stems from might be to grab the top of the engine and try to rock it back and forwards, the engine in my wife's Polo, when rocked by hand, made strange noises until that gearbox mounting was replaced. On the question "should I have bought a Polo?" all these small VW Group cars have shared the same under pinnings or running gear, and that means Skoda as in key parts manufactured in CZ and/or in that locality, so no escape by buying a similar sized car from VW, SEAT or Audi for the time being as the Fabia is the "mother" version for these underpinnings or running gear. Maybe a strange thing, but when I started looking at which versions were used by each VW marque, there was a newer version used by one Fabia - ie the part number had been changed to a later platform than the original 6Q one, which indicated a part revision as well as maybe some other reason. Many of these parts have remained unchanged since Fabia first used them at launch of MK1 Fabia.

Maybe measuring the open circuit PD of a cell battery and using that as a Yes/No as to if it will work when loaded by the key electronics, will only work if all cell batteries are of the same quality and so same internal resistance. I plan to only ever fit Panasonic coin cell batteries to car keys, as do VW Group. Edit:- when I've changed batteries, but always just playing safe - no other reason, the open circuit PD across the cells has been same as you have measured, but none of my cars have kessy.

There at least, used to be sellers of new transponder pellets on the internet in UK, I bought probably a used but "new" for both my previous VW's so that meant receiving new looking keys with blank blades, I never ever completed that task, although I did find a security company that did sell unused transponder pellets. One thing, rumour had it that any/most "used but newish" keys ended up being fitted with blades made out of a harder material than VW Group's key supplier does, so that could annoy a key cutting machine!

If the headlight assembly, fitting to the car, is anything like the similar aged VW Polo, then make sure that you have worked out which screws fix the casing/carrier to the car and which fixings fix the headlight assembly into its carrier. If the MK3 Fabia is similar in that respect to same age VW Polo, then in theory, the headlight assembly can get removed from its carrier and refitted without needing to bother about any major re-alignment, I made sure that I refitted that Polo headlight assembly so that the fixing screws were back in the same position ie on the old witness marks. First time these lights were removed required quite a hard whack from a fist to dislodge it from its fully seated position within the carrier, if same as same age VW Polo there will be guides in both parts to ensure near enough same alignment when refitted, maybe too easy to refit on that car without having the rear tang/finger engaged in its receiver - the rear of the headlight will be "floppy" if not fixed correctly in place. Edit:- maybe prepare for ending up with a sore palm or fist as there was no or not enough room to accelerate my palm/fist before it made contact with the rear of the housing! Another Edit:- on the same age VW Polo, I only removed 2 screws, the 3rd one seems to be for an adjustable stop, if any of that translates to how the Fabia headlight is fitted.

Remember that some other car makers used these as well, I think that the last one that I bought via ebay was listed as for Vauxhall. Once you have sorted this out, record the actual code of the security bolt/adaptor, the code is stamped on the inner end of the bolt and on the adaptor. Strange thing is, both our cars have the same code, but for different series of security bolts! I just used "VW locking wheel bolt keys" - or similar as a search phrase, and got quite a few hits. Edit:- remember to give the VW Transporter ones with a 19mm hex head, you need one that has a 17mm hex head as do all VW Group cars.

How did you connect up the meter for checking for a drain, and how long did you leave it connected while checking the current drain current value?

Another VW Polo 1.2TSI 90PS this time with a build date 07/09/16 in ZA which, using my wife's car and engine build dates as a guide, means that engine would have been build round about 20/07/16 in CZ. Once again no real interest from their supplying VW dealership as that car was taken to the nearest workshop for repair, which was not VW. He is/has reported this to DVSA, but no reply from them. As usual, there was one bolt "missing" which sounds a lot like its head had pop'd off and one bolt loose, the owner was a bit concerned as his wife had been driving and had a grandchild in the rear seat.

I'd reckon that you would be better off buying 2 of these jointing pieces and a length of new same dimension washer fluid pipe, if you do that you would be pulling the cut ends of the pipe back in both directions so that the 2 joints were well away from the gaitor area and so away from any points where the pipe gets flexed due to the hatch being opened.

Any oil on the plastic charge pipe could be down to the "rubber" O-ring not sealing as well as it should. I took that pipe off my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and the official workshop manual points out that these O-rings should be replaced whenever that pipe is removed - though I would normally only expect oil to be misting out from the other end, ie the TB end. Edit:- on looking at that picture again, I'm guessing that your car has the earlier 8V version of that engine, though probably still got a "rubber" O-ring at the turbo end, and maybe that end of that pipe is the lowest point of that charge pipe - it is the highest point on the later 16V engines, so the oil mist appears at the other lower end mainly.