rum4mo

Not really, at the time I got that bottle, it just came in different forms like oil or stiffened up like grease for different applications, ie ease of use, I could quote the actual version/form if I looked at the bottle. I've got American relations, they visited recently, in no way are they "red necks" or "Tumpists" quite the opposite, but it seems all Americans know the only "good" Ruskie is a nuked one, and that caused a bit of friction as I suggested that this area of Europe could quite easily be the waste ground when the "big guys" start throwing really big munitions around.

I prefer to fit the SEAT Alhambra MK1 springs, will be same as VW Sharan MK1 or even Ford Galaxy same age, bought my second pair August 2015 (second car I fitted them to, first time a 2002 VW Polo 9N and this time 2015 VW Polo 6C, I can look out the VW Group part number if you want to go down that road. Edit:- LH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 295 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off RH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 296 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off

I acquired a bottle of Krytox as at one point we needed it to lubricate O-ring seals in systems that contained some curious F-Gas product - it is safe to use with any/most F-Gas refrigerants!

It has been reported on many of these motoring forums that strange noises can come from the door seals when the body<>doors move relative to each other, it tends to be Krytox etc that people are advised to use - that stuff is used a lot on car that have folding steel roofs it seems. I am just clarifying that nothing more.

My wife's late June 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI has a slight annoying buzz coming from the driver's side upper seat belt area in the B pillar, a sharp tug of the belt tends to stop it for a while, it has had that from new I could really be bothered interesting VW in sorting it out as normally one thing gets fixed and a few more things go wrong or at least get damaged! I've never even got round to altering the height of that adjustable top mounting to see if it solves it if I change or correct the height to suit me, hopefully it currently is adjusted to suit my wife. One other annoying noise I got rid off was from the seatbelt buckle/mounting bracket touching a bit of metal work when the seat etc was in "my" correct position - to sort that out I just copied what VW Group fit to some other cars including my 2011 S4 - ie a wide strip of self adhesive Velcro - the soft half.

I question that I have, and maybe someone can give me a definitive answer, is, keys supplied with new VW Group cars get numbered in the car's system and each key has a rolling code, new keys bought from VW Group dealerships to replace or to add to keys for a car are again numbered keys and each key has a rolling code. Some cheaper sources for key only supply a cloned key - so how does that work for a system designed to have rolling codes for each key, I'm guessing that the car is never handed in when you buy a cheaper cloned key so the car can not "see" that cheaper cloned key as an extra key. As a car gets older maybe none of that is a problem as the key either works for you are it don't, but with a newer car maybe you want same as original key.

The general advise is to not bother buying a "new" key from the likes of ebay as many/most/all will just be 2nd keys that that someone will have harvested from used cars and so the immob chip/pellet will already have been programmed to a car's ECU and so will not be able to be re-coded. If I was in your situation, I'd give in and request that your local Skoda dealership order in a new for your exact car, hand the car in and let them remove the missing key and add the new key to your car. I've only ever ordered in an emergency key for my car as it only came with the 2 main keys, and getting sorted out by my local Audi dealer worked out okay, many new owners of used cars just don't get round to getting a 2nd key as there is no need for one - until it is too late, I admire your intention to avoid ended up in that situation. Many many years ago, when a new car was handed over to the first owner, there would be a coded label on the keys, that was when owners were given the unique PIN or whatever it was called, and I seem to remember that when you had that info, you could use VCDS to code another key - but nowadays that is not the case. Edit:- I'll admit that I have bought a 3rd or back-up key for my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion and my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V SE, way back in the early 2000s when there were many "new" keys for sale cheaply, I always knew that I would need to new a new immob pellet for both of them and had found out which Philips chip each one needed, but that was as far was I went, I also knew that the uncut key blade was not genuine VW Group part - but some seriously hard item from another source, which would probably annoy a key cutters machine and very quickly wear out the car's ignition barrel - but in your case, that would not be as much as an issue, so I've still got them, I should really sell them on as the remote sections and cases might be useful for someone!

Yes that was the answer I got from a SEAT dealership, I was just adding in some "time padding" - these technical official calls for help go directly to Skoda/VW/SEAT/Audi Mothership(s) and so are not subject to any of this 3rd party "fault deflecting"/gatekeepering set of clowns.

Progress then, in my experience, when any VW Group workshop initiate this request for assistance, a reply is sent to them within 4 working days, usually a lot less than that, so if your dealership don't get back to you within a week, you will need to chase them up.

Did you end up taking that car into a Skoda dealership, and if so, did they repair it FOC? Or, if not as above, have you tried writing to the importer of these cars into UK, Skoda UK, using recorded delivery, and getting a written reply which might help your case when you pass that onto the relevant UK government department(s), they should be getting informed about this as that could end up being the only way VW Group gets ordered to sort this out in UK. I'd doubt if any of the big motoring organisations would be of any help though - they say a lot and do nothing "talk to your dealership", AA is just far too busy running its car parking companies and gas suppliers I'd think, plus having to put up with members like me demanding that they reduce my yearly subscription cost - that plan of action has worked very well for the past 6 years!

Fuel Leak! - Page 9 - Skoda Fabia Mk III - BRISKODA Yes, here it is. I'm sort of lucky as I feel/expect that my wife's late June/early July 2015 build VW Polo will have missed this factory issue - though I remain very very annoyed, plus a lot more, that VW Group have not recalled all possibly affected cars as they MUST be able to be "place" an engine factory build period over all possible 1.2TSI and 1.4TSI EA211 family of engines that could be affected, they know, or can easily find out where these engines ended up in wrt car VINs, and they know where these cars got sold into, ie which importer's sales territories - so apart from cost, why are they, as yet, not been seen to be doing anything about this possibly dangerous situation? That is a question you should be asking of your supplying dealership if bought new or approved used, if you have bought this car from another source, you should be sending Skoda UK a recorded delivery letter asking this question and demanding compensation, and enlighten them to the fact that with this sort of failure, getting your car recovered to the nearest garage was always the smart move, these muppets will try to walk away from you as you did not drive it to a Skoda workshop - they are fools, who it seems are not employed by VW Group, but a 3rd party that provide a "gateway/barrier" between customer and car importer, and probably get paid by the volume of complaints they deflect from their customer, who in this case is Skoda UK - all VW Group brands will also be using this convenient way to ignore issues that UK government departments don't seem to picking up on right now. Good Luck! Edit:- another link 1.2 TSI engine fuel leak | Page 3 | Volkswagen Forum

I've looked at the parts listing for your age of car, and there is an "injection nozzle with valve" assembly associated with the rear wash fluid circuit, exactly where it is located, I can't say part number 510 955 993 what its main function is I can't say, though as it has a valve built into it, I'd think that it could be to retain fluid in the delivery tube so that there is fluid almost up to the washer jet nozzle at the point in time you request fluid for the rear window - and so you don't need to wait a few seconds before the fluid sprays out, if all that is true, then it is possible that if that one way valve is always open, then even low pressure fluid intended for the front screen could get passed through and out the rear nozzle, and if that one way valve was working as intended, it would present enough of a "forward facing" resistance to low leaking through front screen fluid, as to stop it getting into the rear screen piping, while allowing the normal higher pressure rear screen fluid through , but other than that it leaves only the main washer pump assembly as being the root cause of this issue. Sorry a long winded reply, I was just trying to explain my logic!

I'd guess so - though you should find and check a parts listing for your car to see if any parts are available other than a new pump. Edit:- I'm guessing that the front spray works okay and only works when that function is selected?

Have you fitted new green O-ring seals to every joint that has that type of O-ring in it - VW Group states that any/all these green O-ring seals must be replaced before re-assembly? The function of these 3 tubes is to act to reduce resonances in the induction tract at that point. Edit:- it would be useful if you stated what happened to cause that area of induction piping to get crushed - as when that happened, maybe something else got damaged, so knowing that might reduce any wild guessing.

Well, if the bumps were aimed at me, sorry that I did not update this at the time, I looked through some VW models parts listings, found what I thought could work, ordered it in, the rubber pipe that it clamps to in 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI is slightly smaller so I wrapped the contact area with fabric cable harness tape, and fitted it. It serves its purpose and hold the pipes away from hitting things and pipes apart, so in my case, I ended up improving that 2015 VW Polo to the later build standard.

I'm sure that there is a one way valve on the pump so that when it runs in one direction, ie the "normal" direction, the fluid gets sent to the front only, when the pump is run in the opposite direction, the fluid should only then be sent to the rear.

I checked this on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo SEL today, and yes after the ignition is switched off AND then a door has been opened, well at least the passenger door was opened then closed, the electric windows will not function unless you cycle the ignition, from then on, the electric windows stayed "working" for quite a long time, I stopped checking after 6 minutes if no doors are opened.

Yes I quickly noticed that "feature" with my wife's 2002 Polo with the similar BBY engine, first and only car that I've looked after that that happened on, though, I'd expect that the similar BXW engine in my daughter's late 2009 Ibiza would also behave like that. Just saying that so that you don't feel that you are the only one!

I find this with my wife's 2015 VW Polo and while it is tolerable, I can't help thinking that that car could be kept a lot quieter if the door dealing was improved, actually I'm complaining able the level of noise from outside that I can hear when I'm driving that car, I'm sure that I've opened the drivers door window and reached out and tried to press the external door seal into the space between the frame and the door and that worked, until the door is next opened - but I've always considered that it was due to the basic design of these cars and/or the basic design of the external door seal, so really not just a failing door seal.

@Brutusfrom my experience over the past 22 years of owning VW Group cars, it is normal, there is a short period after switching the ignition off when the window controllers are still awake, and so you can open/close the windows, I've forgotten how long that period is, maybe only 5 minutes. Okay it is slightly annoying to need to then switch the ignition on and off again to re-enable the window controllers - but that does not cause me any great concern/inconvenience.

Yes, the oil cap will have a rubber sealing washer, as will the cranked adaptor - at the same point, where it fitted onto the engine. One other thing, if you ever end up buying a new cranked adaptor, understand that it sort of locks onto the top of the engine, ie there will be a slight locking/latching element on the area that it fixes to, if you have a look at your picture of the broken one, you will see a raised "finger" near the steel tang at the top of the picture, so while it is a bayonet type fitting, that lower end also has a locking/latching bit - not knowing that might have contributed to the original adaptor getting broken, though I'd think its body material will have aged and so hardened with age and that would make it easier to break when being removed.

Has the spring steel bit on that side not snapped off and dropped down into the top of the cam chest? Maybe compare that broken end with the filler cap itself. Can you not just fit the filler cap onto where that cranked adaptor was fitted to to close off the cam chest? Edit:- oh, I was wrong, that other spring steel tang is still fitted to the cranked adaptor and is just bent/broken.

I've bought and used 4 of these kits since late 1970s, and yes the weak area is always the car's fluid reservoir cap seal, or at least the Gunsons seal in the correct cap, which, for VW Group cars, there is a choice of seals as that cap fits 2 sizes! I'm not sure that I ever worked out which seal works best with VW Group cars reservoir - as instructed on the box always fit the kit to the car dry first and pressurise to make sure that there are no air leaks, fluid leaks with normally area once you have started using this kit so smother everywhere with newspapers and paper towelling - always remembering the pln is never to allow brake fluid to get into contact with any paintwork that is on show! I bodged up a "bought for that purpose" pump up garden sprayer to use as a pressure source, that saves messing around with a tyre.

A big chunk of gearbox, like a stiffening web.

You can buy a coil "extractor" which is just a tool that you pass a tapered/wedged part down through the securing screw hole then expand it, then grab the handle grip part - and pull. I bought a Laser Tools version which was not too cheap, but it looks like it was hand made - so buying anywhere cheaply and without a quality branding should work, even AliExpress - if you have the time to wait! Edit:- I already had a Laser Tools roughly 9" long spark plug socket with built in magnets - I had been using that for years on earlier VW Group cars, but when I went to use it on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI for its first plug change - this socket could not get down and onto the hex part of the plugs - the reason was, this 9" long spark plug socket has a hole all the way through/along it, which was big enough to clear "old school" spark plug body profile - but not big enough diameter to allow these newer version of spark plugs fully into it. Laser Tools could not understand this as all their warehouse stock were checked and were okay with newer versions of plugs, so either they changed that "random" hole size after I bought mine, or my one was not to drawing but perfectly useable with "old school" versions of spark plugs - anyway, nothing that a couple of "good" drill bits bought from Machine Mart and lots of cutting fluid could not sort out for the future, for that spark plug change I had to revert to an older spark plug socket and extension.