rum4mo

Maybe remember to check the warranty and forget that you drove over a ridge on the road.

Thanks, all good stuff every bit of extra information helps, I will replace the Exide EFB in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with an AGM battery with slightly higher capacity as that seems like being a smart move, but so far the factory fitted EFB has stayed alive longer than expected probably due to me making sure that it gets connected to a smart charger, CTEK when it was not used very much during the 2020 and 2021 lockdown periods, its capacity measures as being 500A CCA EN now, down from 640A CCA EN - well that was its rated value, and it measured slightly above that when newly delivered and in circuit in the car.

One easy way to begin to check the cabling is, each of the sensors have 3 wires going to them, +12V power, a 0V earth return and an output, so you should find that there are 2 pins in each plug that go to the same 2 pins on the other plugs - but not to each other and only the output pins are completely separate from all the other pins. Edit:- but as has been said already, when you get a couple, three or all four sensors claiming to be faulty, then it is usually a wiring issue. The way that VW Group's supplier has made up these cable forms, there will be joins as the common +12V DC and 0V return lines are daisy chained along the bumper.

I've never seen mention in anything about Terraclean that confirms that they also remove the inlet manifold etc and blast the inlet area of the cylinder head with crushed walnut shells to ALSO clean up the area that most needs it. So no, not worth doing it - unless they confirm in writing that they also walnut shell blast the area around the inlet valves.

If you feel that the fridge charge loss is just due to normal leakage due to the materials used or needing to be used, then maybe check out Groupon or some other source and find an ATS discount price for a recharge - if the system is still relatively leak tight. My wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI seems to be relatively leak tight, or free from gross enough leaks, I've had it recharged twice, the refill keeps the system running during a normal British Summer, though the AC system starts logging "low pressure" from November onwards. Now, I have an F-Gas certificate so I probably should not morally be doing this, but to date I have not been able to locate the actual leak site, I'm hoping that it is on the inner face of the condenser and I need to remove the front of that car and find out if there are any traces of system oil mist anywhere on the condenser, if there isn't then - I'll be a bit annoyed! Edit:- we have just been away for a few days, my wife "reminded" me that there are ATS recharge deals on Groupon - before opening her side window!

Quoting the engine code might help here, just maybe though. Edit:- like 5W-30 meeting VW spec 504 would work.

Some VW Group cars have a pyrotechnic device that blows one of the main fuses, the crash sensor does that, to make the car as safe as possible following an impact - but for that to be an issue I’d expect an event to get logged somewhere. Certainly Audi B8s have that feature so I’d think lots others will have it, though it is seldom brought up in these forums.

Probably just a typo, 7522 seems to be the one.

No wind back needed on the front callipers, just press back. Now if you have rear disc brakes, then you would need to rewind the pistons.

My younger daughter and her husband who live on the edge of London, have just passed their driving test and so looking for a car, they have come across what could be a "new normal" situation for desperate used car sales people, trying to sell "good quality" cars bought 3 months ago when the market was slow in terms of very few new cars getting sold to provide stocks of reasonably priced used cars, and now the market is starting to flow again, so expected profits are reducing, such is life for people in the used car trade. Today for them will be crunch day I'd think, I just hope that they have not forced their sales person to turn round and walk away from selling that car for what they are willing to pay.

and the final fix was?

The thing is, when you close the bleed valve, there is a solid cone down below the level of the cross drilling in the bleed valve, so that solid cone plugs the open concave point on the calliper, so that works normally. What you might have, is the bore of the bleed valve is full of brake fluid, and that is weeping/creeping up the thread of the calliper<>bleed valve. If I'm being completely honest, I had never witnessed this happening until maybe 6 years ago, so now I spray brake cleaner down into the open end of the closed bleed valve and that ejects most of that fluid and then evaporates, my next plan is to do the job the way that VW Group and maybe others suggest and that is to apply compatible grease to the threads of the opened bleed valve, doing that should stop any trapped fluid creeping up and out of the threads area, AND stop micro bubbles appearing in the bleed tube. Really a lot of overkill, but seeing as you have asked. I'd prefer if there was no "wetness" around the brake valves especially as I am getting the car MOT'd soon after replacing the brake fluid. Finally, if none of that sounds relevant in your case, just replace all the brake bleed valves, tightening the new ones down to 13Nm fronts if 288mm discs, or 10Nm fronts if 256mm discs, rears are 10Nm - I tend to tighten them down "by feel". Remember once the dust cap has been refitted, which is good, there is only one route left for that trapped fluid especially if the callipers have been heated up by using the brakes.

Not really, at the time I got that bottle, it just came in different forms like oil or stiffened up like grease for different applications, ie ease of use, I could quote the actual version/form if I looked at the bottle. I've got American relations, they visited recently, in no way are they "red necks" or "Tumpists" quite the opposite, but it seems all Americans know the only "good" Ruskie is a nuked one, and that caused a bit of friction as I suggested that this area of Europe could quite easily be the waste ground when the "big guys" start throwing really big munitions around.

I prefer to fit the SEAT Alhambra MK1 springs, will be same as VW Sharan MK1 or even Ford Galaxy same age, bought my second pair August 2015 (second car I fitted them to, first time a 2002 VW Polo 9N and this time 2015 VW Polo 6C, I can look out the VW Group part number if you want to go down that road. Edit:- LH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 295 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off RH Handbrake return spring 7M0 615 296 (from 1998 Sharan) – 1off

I acquired a bottle of Krytox as at one point we needed it to lubricate O-ring seals in systems that contained some curious F-Gas product - it is safe to use with any/most F-Gas refrigerants!

It has been reported on many of these motoring forums that strange noises can come from the door seals when the body<>doors move relative to each other, it tends to be Krytox etc that people are advised to use - that stuff is used a lot on car that have folding steel roofs it seems. I am just clarifying that nothing more.

My wife's late June 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI has a slight annoying buzz coming from the driver's side upper seat belt area in the B pillar, a sharp tug of the belt tends to stop it for a while, it has had that from new I could really be bothered interesting VW in sorting it out as normally one thing gets fixed and a few more things go wrong or at least get damaged! I've never even got round to altering the height of that adjustable top mounting to see if it solves it if I change or correct the height to suit me, hopefully it currently is adjusted to suit my wife. One other annoying noise I got rid off was from the seatbelt buckle/mounting bracket touching a bit of metal work when the seat etc was in "my" correct position - to sort that out I just copied what VW Group fit to some other cars including my 2011 S4 - ie a wide strip of self adhesive Velcro - the soft half.

I question that I have, and maybe someone can give me a definitive answer, is, keys supplied with new VW Group cars get numbered in the car's system and each key has a rolling code, new keys bought from VW Group dealerships to replace or to add to keys for a car are again numbered keys and each key has a rolling code. Some cheaper sources for key only supply a cloned key - so how does that work for a system designed to have rolling codes for each key, I'm guessing that the car is never handed in when you buy a cheaper cloned key so the car can not "see" that cheaper cloned key as an extra key. As a car gets older maybe none of that is a problem as the key either works for you are it don't, but with a newer car maybe you want same as original key.

The general advise is to not bother buying a "new" key from the likes of ebay as many/most/all will just be 2nd keys that that someone will have harvested from used cars and so the immob chip/pellet will already have been programmed to a car's ECU and so will not be able to be re-coded. If I was in your situation, I'd give in and request that your local Skoda dealership order in a new for your exact car, hand the car in and let them remove the missing key and add the new key to your car. I've only ever ordered in an emergency key for my car as it only came with the 2 main keys, and getting sorted out by my local Audi dealer worked out okay, many new owners of used cars just don't get round to getting a 2nd key as there is no need for one - until it is too late, I admire your intention to avoid ended up in that situation. Many many years ago, when a new car was handed over to the first owner, there would be a coded label on the keys, that was when owners were given the unique PIN or whatever it was called, and I seem to remember that when you had that info, you could use VCDS to code another key - but nowadays that is not the case. Edit:- I'll admit that I have bought a 3rd or back-up key for my 2000 VW Passat 4Motion and my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V SE, way back in the early 2000s when there were many "new" keys for sale cheaply, I always knew that I would need to new a new immob pellet for both of them and had found out which Philips chip each one needed, but that was as far was I went, I also knew that the uncut key blade was not genuine VW Group part - but some seriously hard item from another source, which would probably annoy a key cutters machine and very quickly wear out the car's ignition barrel - but in your case, that would not be as much as an issue, so I've still got them, I should really sell them on as the remote sections and cases might be useful for someone!

Yes that was the answer I got from a SEAT dealership, I was just adding in some "time padding" - these technical official calls for help go directly to Skoda/VW/SEAT/Audi Mothership(s) and so are not subject to any of this 3rd party "fault deflecting"/gatekeepering set of clowns.

Progress then, in my experience, when any VW Group workshop initiate this request for assistance, a reply is sent to them within 4 working days, usually a lot less than that, so if your dealership don't get back to you within a week, you will need to chase them up.

Did you end up taking that car into a Skoda dealership, and if so, did they repair it FOC? Or, if not as above, have you tried writing to the importer of these cars into UK, Skoda UK, using recorded delivery, and getting a written reply which might help your case when you pass that onto the relevant UK government department(s), they should be getting informed about this as that could end up being the only way VW Group gets ordered to sort this out in UK. I'd doubt if any of the big motoring organisations would be of any help though - they say a lot and do nothing "talk to your dealership", AA is just far too busy running its car parking companies and gas suppliers I'd think, plus having to put up with members like me demanding that they reduce my yearly subscription cost - that plan of action has worked very well for the past 6 years!

Fuel Leak! - Page 9 - Skoda Fabia Mk III - BRISKODA Yes, here it is. I'm sort of lucky as I feel/expect that my wife's late June/early July 2015 build VW Polo will have missed this factory issue - though I remain very very annoyed, plus a lot more, that VW Group have not recalled all possibly affected cars as they MUST be able to be "place" an engine factory build period over all possible 1.2TSI and 1.4TSI EA211 family of engines that could be affected, they know, or can easily find out where these engines ended up in wrt car VINs, and they know where these cars got sold into, ie which importer's sales territories - so apart from cost, why are they, as yet, not been seen to be doing anything about this possibly dangerous situation? That is a question you should be asking of your supplying dealership if bought new or approved used, if you have bought this car from another source, you should be sending Skoda UK a recorded delivery letter asking this question and demanding compensation, and enlighten them to the fact that with this sort of failure, getting your car recovered to the nearest garage was always the smart move, these muppets will try to walk away from you as you did not drive it to a Skoda workshop - they are fools, who it seems are not employed by VW Group, but a 3rd party that provide a "gateway/barrier" between customer and car importer, and probably get paid by the volume of complaints they deflect from their customer, who in this case is Skoda UK - all VW Group brands will also be using this convenient way to ignore issues that UK government departments don't seem to picking up on right now. Good Luck! Edit:- another link 1.2 TSI engine fuel leak | Page 3 | Volkswagen Forum

I've looked at the parts listing for your age of car, and there is an "injection nozzle with valve" assembly associated with the rear wash fluid circuit, exactly where it is located, I can't say part number 510 955 993 what its main function is I can't say, though as it has a valve built into it, I'd think that it could be to retain fluid in the delivery tube so that there is fluid almost up to the washer jet nozzle at the point in time you request fluid for the rear window - and so you don't need to wait a few seconds before the fluid sprays out, if all that is true, then it is possible that if that one way valve is always open, then even low pressure fluid intended for the front screen could get passed through and out the rear nozzle, and if that one way valve was working as intended, it would present enough of a "forward facing" resistance to low leaking through front screen fluid, as to stop it getting into the rear screen piping, while allowing the normal higher pressure rear screen fluid through , but other than that it leaves only the main washer pump assembly as being the root cause of this issue. Sorry a long winded reply, I was just trying to explain my logic!

I'd guess so - though you should find and check a parts listing for your car to see if any parts are available other than a new pump. Edit:- I'm guessing that the front spray works okay and only works when that function is selected?