rum4mo

My "stand alone" TomTom seems to get worse after each map update - maybe there is method to their madness, it used to be very trustworthy, now my wife tends to keep the 2009 AA atlas open, and yes, it needs replacing but its age does not stop it being used to drive round TomTom's routing - I've used "ECO", "SHORTEST" and "QUICKEST" and still get duff routing, okay road traffic incidents will cause it to re-route away from the obvious route, but mad routing just doesn't seem right. Used it last week going to and coming home from Yorkshire, yes a few "minor" diversions but really, what a pain - from something that used to be completely trustworthy.

@Me21 , as said in the thread that you were given a link one, the car should shut down all deemed unnecessary controllers a few minutes after the ignition has been switched off - and that should switch off all interior lights that have been left on, including the cabin and boot lights if a door or hatch is left open, so maybe there is another issue with your car that is stopping the controllers from being shut down or "put to sleep". For what it is worth, or not, most newer VAG cars were not fitted with glovebox lights, I always considered retro fitting one to my wife's 2015 VW Polo - but we've had that car from new and I've still not got round to doing that, full gloveboxes don't really need a light - maybe.

I'd be willing to guess that the rear brake calliper is now a Mando product which should be a copy of the old Girling>Lucas>? calliper, so it will be Right Handed threads for retracting the piston, so that tool should work. I'm sure that you will return to let us know if that is true.

Just another thought, to check if it is the lower arm rear mounts, park the car on level ground, out of gear and with the handbrake on firmly - now grab each of the front wheels and try to rotate them, one at a time, using your hands - if you get the same sort of noises and the wheel moves back and forwards within the wheel arch, then I'd suggest it is the lower arm bonded mounting(s), easy to replace - well relatively easy.

One area where you get get this noise from, especially in colder weather, is the front suspension top mounts - they are "rubber" and just sit in an inverted cup at the top of the struts, not much can be done if that is the issue, I've considered applying talc to the top mounting to see if that improves things - but as it is only happening in colder weather and at the start of journeys, I've not moved on that idea. Next is the lower arms rear mountings, they can tear as they are voided, and that will tend to keep making noises even when the temperature increases. Last, there is the top gearbox mounting, depending on which version is currently fitted, replacing it with one for the TDI if you have a TSI can improve things.

@D.FYLAKTOS , yes but, the OP has already physically fitted the rear parking sensors, and many people have them and "kept" their rear intact - including me - and even retro fitted front ones that work well.

One thing to consider is, if a car has needed a battery change, then probably, if the car had been "supported with a memory saver" while that duff battery was being replaced, then quite a few fault codes will have been generated simply due to that old battery becoming U/S. I always copy and/or save/print out all fault codes on my family cars BEFORE clearing them, that seems to work for me and allows me to refer back if any problems re-appear - instead of remembering/guessing what previous fault codes had been stored. On more modern cars, even if the car has not "supported" during a battery replacement, there could initially be some fault codes generated that could live on in the relevant controllers.

Is it not possible that this is just trapped air in the system eventually making its way to the coolant reservoir - and so dropping its level. Maybe poor/cheap/warranty job done and the system not fully drained down and then put under vacuum prior to backfilling with NEW coolant?

Hopefully, quite soon, you will try to compare by feel or eyes, where, when compared to the other side, these 2 screws should fit. I'm sure that VW Group will not have fitted extra screws just for a laugh.

@oryxspirited yes, disappointing really, still what I was buying was a 3 or 6 month old Ford Fiesta 1.1 Ghia 5 door, with maybe 1,500 miles on the clock, for very little money, so my wife was getting her next used car which was almost new for a change! There used to be quite a trade in these ex-Channel Island hire cars, mainly Fiestas and Nova/Corsa in UK back in 1990s, just another way for Ford and Vauxhall to boost sales figures - none of them came with manufacturer warranty though, which typically made no difference to the typical buyer who could sort out most issues themselves. Only issue was trying to get rid of the very fine sand in the cabin! Edit:- I had to get the salesman to retrieve the "lock number" tags from his wastepaper bin along with maybe the "sports key" which was a small skeleton key typically only ever used when you parked at the beach and went swimming etc.

No, I’ve never left that lead off, though I did discover that it was disconnected some days after the car had been into its supplying VW main dealership for warranty work - replacing the gearbox mounting. That lead being left off did explain why Auto Stop/Start, when allowed/enabled, no longer worked as intended.

Losing the "current" MPG would annoy me (sorry). On a sensible note, I'm sure that I've read that the general advise is unplug the BMS lead first from that dongle, and only refit it after the two main battery leads have been fitted to the new battery.

I just use a charged AGM jump pack and lead that plugs into the OBD2 port, works fine for me. I used to use a Draper one that used maybe a PP6 or PP3 battery years ago and connected to the car's battery terminals with crock clips, that worked as well, but probably slightly messier than using the jump pack and a lead that plugs into the OBD2 port. Edit:- maybe sad to say, but maybe many years ago I used a Draper memory saver that just plugged into the mains, but I'm sure that I gifted that to someone!

But this was in Oz not cool/cold UK, so maybe she needed the AC on to stop herself from overheating - just a thought.

They are not supplied painted to your car's colour as you have discovered, but if you are really lucky you might find someone selling painted ones on ebay - I found a rear boot handle for my wife's 2002 VW Polo when it was only a few years old, I can't explain why anyone was selling pre-painted handles, other than maybe a batch from the factory were crap - as like on her car, and VW supplied a "shed" load of pre-painted handles to address that, and I was lucky enough to grab one! Spray + Lacquer pack from VW Group is the cheapest way to solve this - I did that once when retro fitting parking sensors.

Having now read this "guide" I'd think that you should be able to find some better ones either within this forum or elsewhere like SEAT Ibiza forums, VW Polo forums don't tend to have many useful guides (in my experience). So you will need the mentioned Torx bit for the strut clamping bolt and a suitable "hub opening" tool, there is one that is suitable for all VW Group hubs and is safe and easy to use. If you just buying a "general" hub opening tool, you need to be careful as to how much you open the pinch point as you don't want to crack it. The 12 point of Bi-Hex socket you need to work on the drive shaft nuts, needs to be slim - I bought a Laser Tools deep socket - and that worked okay. Taking the "hidden" brake shield off - I just used a 1/4" torx bit, jammed that down hard into the head of that screw using a screwdriver in the space between the hub and the head of this bit, and used a small adjustable spanner on the bit to turn it. Just in case you didn't know, in my experience, it is just corrosion on the heads of these screws that makes them hard to unscrew - their threads should still be as fresh/clean as the day they were fitted! Make sure that you use the exact same lower swivel assemble as used on your car - or you might end up with a camber error that you can't sort out by other means. Also really do check the condition of the wheel bearings currently fitted to any knuckles that you buy as these cars all like to "use" their wheel bearing especially the ones that have the heavier engines - ie all the cars that used these knuckles. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT 5 door, needed a new front wheel bearing at maybe 35,000 miles and it was never abused - its front wheel bearing got noisy due to maybe water getting in past the seals in the bearing pack.

That applies to most cars from 2010MY onwards, no one has yet, I think, built up enough data to support that not getting re-coding done saves or costs you more money over the life of that next battery - I just play safe or do as advised and always perform re-coding.

Maybe this would help:- 256mm to 288mm brake upgrade - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA

I'd think that if you searched within this forum that you'd find info on doing this, it MUST have already been covered, either in the MK1 or MK2 or even MK3 sections or resources, plus Google should be able to find this upgrade on Fabia/Polo/Ibiza.

Yes, if you have the smaller discs, to move up to 288mm discs will mean changing the knuckles. 288mm discs and the associated calliper will still allow you to use 15” wheels. My wife’s 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110pS has 288mm front discs from factory and 16” alloys, but I use 2013 15” alloys in winter.

I've been using Gunsons Eezibleed for over 40 years, and in that time replaced the kits maybe 4 times. I quickly changed my normal way of doing things into, first cover the top of the under bonnet and wings with newspapers - just in case there are any leaks, then started fitting a collar of blue towelling around the reservoir cap area - as that was normally where the fluid escapes from. Then extended the air pressurising hose a lot and using a small garden sprayer as a pressure source. Then used a large cheap garden sprayer as a pressure source. My best and to date latest improvement has been to buy a used brake master cylinder and use its reservoir with the fluid outlets sealed together, as a test rig every time before using that kit - oh and maybe making sure that I'm using the correct cap and correct rubber seal (44/45mm plastic cap with “5” 43.00X3.00mm sealing washer – for use with all ATE systems inc VW Group). As said in the previous reply, I always clean everything out and dry it and store it in a warm place, ready for next time, which for our 3 local cars, is unfortunately this Spring! Old brake fluid gets absorbed into wood chippings/sawdust bought for that purpose as that seems to a correct way to prepare it for disposal.

Current Gunsons Easybleed kit includes a cap that fits VW Group cars from at least 2000 > 2019 from personal experience, just make sure that you use the correct sealing washer.

I'd think that it will be up to individual car sales places what sort of number plate fixings they use - so not a specific Skoda issue. I bought an ex Channel Islands hire car Ford Fiesta many years ago, it was being sold by a Mazda dealer locally, how they fitted the UK mainland number plates was just to hold the new plates roughly level and drill a couple of holes through the plates and plastic bumper cover - rough as badgers bottoms, Ford always provided mounting points on their cars. I think that that annoyed me enough to buy a set of new plates and fix them properly using stainless steel screws and correct colour caps.

Tayna prices might impress you, for maybe a Bosch, with next day delivery - if that is an option now that you have a charger to try to make it just about useable for a day or two.

Maybe just the car industry's way of preparing/converting drivers to what might be coming along next, that EV thing. I still think that I am a "manual gearbox" person, but there again I've never driven an DSG or EV.