rum4mo

I’ve always aimed to replace fey fob batteries before they slip below 3.0V .

There can be many reasons why a car AC system has lost its fridge gas, from stone strike to the exposed front condenser to poor build quality of the evaporator which is inside the dashboard are - or even failure of the system pressure sensor - VW Group have a long history of revising this part to improve it, though I'd think that pressure sensor failure/leaking is more of an industry wide issue than just VW Group. Guessing is really not the way forward, your car's AC system needs to get checked over by a proper car HVAC operator - then repaired as necessary. Getting your local Skoda workshop to do this is one way to maybe benefit from your warranty covering the costs - but maybe not the best plan for a quick and proper fix.

You should get back in contact with your seller in China, then https://www.ross-tech.com/ - to complain.🙂

I think that a proper AC or just "fridge" workshop should be able to sniff the air coming out of the vents and confirm if there is any of that car's fridge gas in the air, and so condemn the evaporator - but I'd think that to be 90>100% sure about that, they would need to use a tuneable sniffer like a mass spectrometer, they do exist for this type of use, but I'd think 9 times out of 10 it will be up to the proper fridge workshop checking the accessible areas of the system first using a dye nitrogen, or even that with a small quantity of the actual fridge gas used in that system so that they could include their normal pumped sniffer and looking for the dye - ie belt and braces. I've been thinking about digging deeper into fixing my wife's Polo's AC for years, I really have carried out what I'd hope is extensive sniffing with a pumped sniffer and looking for localised damp areas where system oil has been escaping - doing this days after getting the system recharged - and failed to find any leak sites. So, I am currently dragging my heels over asking a local AC place to locate the leak for me - then I'll tackle fixing it before handing it back to them for vac'ng out etc and back filling with fridge gas.

Just to make it clear, when these systems are not running, the system pressure will equalise round the system, there is no "Hi side" and "Lo side" when the system is not running - when running, the Hi side is the compressor output side and the Lo side the compressor suction side, so when empty or after being emptied/recovered, a vacuum is applied to both sides maybe even, if configured that way, to both sides at the same time to speed up pulling a vacuum - ie connecting both ports to a vacuum pump via the recovery/filling machine.

When I started to write that previous reply, I had written "typically" silver for removal and black for fitting, but then dumped that and just copied what I already recorded when I used my kit. Have a look at both versions to see which one is the bigger inner diameter and which is the smaller - I'd think that that detail will be correct and the colours might have been swopped. The only issue that I have is, I'd reckon a big factory in China made all of these cheap kits and I can't see them swopping the colour/finish, though maybe I'm wrong there. From the way that I wrote the "how to use this kit" back when I had used it, it looks a lot like both the "back blocks" were finished in black - whereas your kit, hopefully sensibly has a black one and a silver one. For interest and to tie that down, I'll try to remember to check if the 2 back blocks are or are not the same colour tomorrow as that kit is out of reach right now while both cars are in the garage - and update this reply. Edit:- for me, having used one of these kits, I'm a bit concerned that you found that the split clamp part ended up wedged in between the hub flange and the hub carrier body - that just should not have been possible if the correct parts were used for fitting the new hub/bearing into the hub carrier/knuckle. Edit:- having checked your picture of a typical Gen 2 bearing kit in your other thread on this task, I see that in that kit, both back blocks are black, so no point in me checking mine now, so I as said, I'd think that it is back to what I copied into the previous reply - ie the split front blocks with the larger inner diameter for removing and the split front block with the smaller inner diameter for fitting the bearing assembly - regardless of colour/finish.

Which parts of your kit did you use to get the first new bearing assembly fitted?

Does this clarify anything:- "There are 2 small one piece rear blocks, one smaller than the other, the smaller one with the section machined off to avoid contacting the ABS wheel speed sensor is only to be used when pulling the old bearing out front the front and the bigger diameter rear block is for pulling the new bearing in as it fits against rear face of the hub carrier, ie is bigger than the hole that the hub bearing passes through. There are 2 split blocks, a larger inner diameter (SILVER) one – which is used for removal as it clears the diameter of the main bearing bore and the snap ring, though if that breaks up on removal it is not an issue – during removal, this split block is fitted behind the hub with the recessed area facing the hub carrier and is forced back against the hub carrier body and the bearing is forced out through it as the rear smaller small block passes through the hole in the hub carrier – and a smaller inner diameter (BLACK) one – which is used to fit new bearing as it fits behind the undercut just behind the flange of the hub with its recess facing the bearing, so that forces the bearing in from that point/area as that smaller split block is pulled in until it almost touched the hub carrier as the bearing gets pulled home due to the rear bigger small block being a bigger diameter than the rear of the hole in the hub carrier." That was taken from comments that I made while using one of these kits.

I'd think that the re-gas that you got would have done the minimum by law to check for leaks, and just regassed it - but there is a small leak and you now using that AC system in this current heat wave is lifting the fridge gas pressure up enough to force it out of that small leak where ever it is, though I hate to say this, if you are getting a "different" smell inside the car, it might just have an evaporator leak - that part is inside the passenger cabin and is quite expensive for ant repair place to get access to! My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, does have a leak in its AC system, I've paid to have it recharged maybe 4 years in a row - hot weather only exists up here in Scotland for a few weeks a year, so getting it recharged at the start of the hot period typically had it staying working for 3 months! For the past maybe 3 years I've not done that as and the pessimist in me "says it is a leak in the evaporator" - I've bought the evaporator and new O-ring seals, but not got round to that job yet. Cooler weather tomorrow hopefully up here in Scotland - or using it tomorrow in rush hour traffic will be - challenging!! Edit:- if you have a fully VAG compliant scan tool, then you can find the AC stored fault code which should be "low pressure" - or any other AC fault codes that might assist you or a fixer to sort this out - but I'd reckon that it will have lost its fridge gas charge, or at least enough of it - through a system leak.

In general, at least my experience of dealing with VW Group parts departments, they will not accept your request to order in something that was not fitted originally to your car - probably to protect themselves and the brand from any issues that might arise. So, to avoid getting into that situation, I've always done my own "due diligence" and just asked them to order in from the part number that I've supplied without handing over any vehicle info, I've always known that if the part that I've got them to order in was not suitable then it was my fault and so I'd not be able to return it for some refund. Once I ordered in a pair of new TREs for my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V part numbers sourced from a knock off copy of EKTA found on ebay - just a pity I didn't check the suitability of the parts selected - they were for a non-Powered Steering model, I did get a small amount of money back after handling charges, I only made that mistake once!

From memory I didn’t hear any “click - that is it”. Maybe get some confidence from how the calliper looks relative to the disc on re-assembly.

The 2 hammer method should be safe to use and shock that taper free, failing that refit the nut upside down and use a ball joint separator - the scissors type and not the “pickle fork” if you want to reuse the TRE.

"wet belts" is a very rude topic🙁. I still have to make contact with my mate that got that job done on his 2019 DADA VW T-Roc, so I'll get the final details when me next meet up. After I gave him "chapter and verse" about the wet belt in his daughter in law's Pug 205 that they had bought used a year earlier, he soon tried trading it in, no one was interested in taking it in at its age/mileage (6 years old) against another used car, so he finally managed to get small money for it by selling it to a truck garage owner who normally needed to set aside one or two days a week to replacing "wet belts".

Easymanuals.co.uk could be a good source of what you want/need at not much money, they are just copies that have been grabbed from erWin in the past, I've bought one for each of my VW Group cars and they are very handy to have once you learn how to use them. Edit:- these captive "bolts" will have been pressed into the swivel castings just like wheel hub studs are pressed into the hubs - they will have male splines in the casting contact area to prevent rotation.

If you are buying new lower swivels, with a car at this age, I'd be buying aftermarket and normally you'd get a kit complete for each side with the swivel, lower nuts and top nut. Edit:- maybe check the Halfords site for prices for the lower swivels, they source these parts from ECP but the price can be less.

I edited my previous posting TRE nuts N 903 213 02 Lower swivel nuts N 103 320 02 RHS lower swivel 6R0 407 366 B (has captive bolt/studs) LHS lower swivel 6R0 407 365 B (has captive bolt/studs)

I'd always make the effort to use genuine parts as the thread size/grade for car aircraft etc fasteners is tighter than that for general use. Edit:- they are listed as M10 but the "bolts" should be captive and part of the swivels, the TREs are listed as being M12.

Maybe a different engine, but still from the same family, my wife has a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with the same design of belt and drive, I considered that 7.5 years would be a good point along with a mileage of 45,000 miles, but actually left it to 10 years and just over 50,000 miles(I think) before getting the belt replaced by a local German cars specialist. My mate, with a 2019 VW T-Roc 1.5TSI DADA, got his belt changed a few months ago and used a local to him German cars specialist, I had warned him that it would probably cost around £1500 if using a VAG Indie and a lot more if using any VW Group dealership's workshop, he reckoned that it was going to be around £800, which does seem cheap to me for these engines with inlet and exhaust adjustable camshaft pulleys which need to get set up using a specialist kit of bits - my wife's 2015 1.2TSI while being from the same engine family, only has adjustable inlet cambelt pulley so seems to be less demanding when it comes to belt changing, so should end up being cheaper.

Well, my wife has a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI and its fuel cap does not spring back when closed. My older daughter has a 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra and its fuel cap does spring back slightly when closed. So on that simple sample of 2 cars of differing ages, it just could be that VW Group did make a change to the design of these fuel caps at some point in time so early ones do not spring back and later ones do spring back slightly after being closed.

The first area that I'd check is the track rods as when there is wear on the inner end of them, you will feel/hear a knocking when you rock the steering wheel with the engine off. I'll check my wife's 2015 59,000miles VW Polo 1.2TSI later and update this posting.

Yes I had it "in my head" that it could be M8 - maybe I had checked the "size" of the nut - but, in some cases like this, the nut is made a "useful" size for what its intended purpose is going to be and not conforming with normal sizing. The "AF" size of the Audi jump post nut, from memory, is way bigger than you might expect just going by its internal thread size, which from memory is M6. The other reason that I've questioned the thread size is, on the Polo/Fabia etc, this earthing post is a main car body primary earthing point - on cars that have a remote jump post, that junction is can end up just being a node for full time use as a "running supply" loads and very short time use as a jumping point, so that could explain why remote jump post terminal sizes are smaller than main car body primary earthing point terminal sizes.

I will drill out the thread on the Audi one and re-tap it, but I need to know the thread size on the existing dome nut first - should or could have taken that body earth dome nut off while I was replacing the battery tray for a longer one - which I needed to do to be able to fit the "next size up" AGM battery - but I got caught with needing to "personalise" that new longer battery tray a bit more than I had hoped for, so the time had gone and this extra task had been forgotten about - maybe later this year.

I think that it is a good idea to check the battery's capacity once a year so that you can track its "wear out" and so try to avoid ending up sticking with a battery that is well passed its useful lifetime. I've got a CTEK battery tester and so far I've believed the readings it gives me at service time, the replacing of the original EFB at the 10 years point was more down to me already having a "one size up" AGM waiting for its time in the car, than the original EFB battery reaching the "wear out" point in its life, although I had been given the "replace battery" for a few years before that, but auto stop/start, when left to do its thing, did still operate, and that original EFB never caused any known issues over its 10 years 56,000 miles of use in a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT.

I'd think that it was lose of feedback voltage that causes these flap motors to make noises, and some like that one, has managed to split open its casing when it lost positional feedback, the short stub/axle on the back of that cog will need to engage in a hole so that it is stable when being moved.

I had a cunning plan to overcome this long term, short term I just cleaned the paint off that dome nut and applied petroleum jelly to stop corrosion, then I managed to buy a -VE remote jump post from an Audi via eBay, but I think that the thread size is smaller than the, in my case VW Polo 6C size - these remote jump posts are galvanised and so should be a reliable place to use for periodic "top ups" - maybe one day I'll check the thread size as so far I've not been able to find that dome nut in the parts listing.