rum4mo

So, correct me if I've got the wrong end of your stick, so if looking for better performance overall, people should always plan to retro fit the basic 256mm brakes? That does not sound like a good plan, braking system weight will always increase when you increase the size of discs and callipers, so no surprise there unless you look into buying lighter weight bigger brake kits.

Okay, I've only ever checked any of the smart controllers using VCDS, though, when I cast my mind back, the main reason that I bought VW Group cars with the auto version of HVAC, was for its inbuilt self diagnostics ability - then bought VCDS and never used the auto controller to check for faults or adapt flaps.

I have not ever taken too much notice of how things work, but, the centre vents can be controlled individually by manually opening or closing them, so I think only the vents and directions that can't be manually controlled, are the only ones that get controlled from the auto HVAC control panel - ie like the "feet" ones and the "face" ones. My lack of knowledge about this is that typically, outside mid summer period, the 2 centre vents stay closed and the 2 outer ones get directed to the side windows.

I'd think that there is also the possibility when when Jo Public (the customer) is engages with someone that is quoting "what the computer said" it is just too easy for them, the customer, to do an auto translate into something they, the customer, either understands or has heard mentioned elsewhere so "power switching" or "power management" both become PSU - of course in the same way, the "technical" side of the desk might have tried and failed to dumb down "what the computer said" in a bid to make the average customer understand it.

I would very much doubt that, every car marque and model version CAN be different depending on the design detail in the area of that calliper. I've always saved myself pain and time wasting by buying the correct part.

Preferably replace the bolts as they are "one time use only" as the "+90 degrees" is taking the bolts into their yield/stretch zone - and you don't want to do that more than once. Possibly debatable if the 40Nm +90 degrees on the bottom bolt will be giving it much stretch - but as you asked, replacing them will be the better plan. I'm guessing that your buffer/bump stop has biodegraded as that material does seem to do very quickly, I've always replaced both sides doing that means you don't need to revisit this bump stop breaking issue again.

I agree, at 4 years old and just under 30K miles, my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS's old plugs looked "as good as new" but I did replace them and the air filter as recommended by VW Group for these engines.

@Chris67, yes I agree with you on its likely location, all I know that on the 2000 VW B5 Passat, it was dash out or remove LHS wing and cut an access hole, which did not sound like a plan. I get the impression from random exposure to VW Group matters, that you can access it after removing the glovebox - though someone on this forum must have needed to replace that flap motor by now. Does Google not return some "handy" guides if not for Fabia, maybe Polo 9N3 or Ibiza 6L?

I'm not aware of anyone reporting bonded mounting bushes issues/failures on any MK1s onwards.

I'm sure that you checked the rear coil springs while the dampers were being changed - did you?

You should check the oil level before running it again, just in case fuel has been getting into the engine oil and raised its level enough to cause the engine to run from the fuel-oil mix getting into the combustion chamber.

Maybe not the answer that you asked for but, from my experience of buying a Lambda sensor for a relatively "recent" model of car, I'd just buy from a VW Group dealership, they would get you the correct part and at a similar price if you bought the genuine but not VW Group branded same part elsewhere. CCP (contact via facebook is best) will get you the correct part at a good price and it will be a VW Group part. Before posting this, I looked up the NGK website as their NTK brand covers these sensors and is or was a VW group factory supplier, and these 1.2TSI 16V engines do not exist in their catalogue! I found the same when checking up on the NTK part number years ago for a BBY engine, which I only found listed under SEAT, but this time this 1.2TSI 16V is not listed under any VW Group marque. Was I correct in that this engine is a 16V and so its code is CJZC or CJZD ? I think that the second sensor will be easier to deal with as it is out in the open so access is better, it is down stream so not subject to so much heat, also if it is the same as earlier cars, there will be a plastic box mounted on the body quite close to where the sensor is mounted on the exhaust, so the sensor lead will be quite short so handier than feeding it around the engine - that plastic box houses the plug<>socket for that sensor. Edit:- just a thought, you have not run over something and damaged its cable?

I think that all you can do while under warranty, is to remove the pollen filter and see if anything falls out - after that if you find nothing you really will need to suffer the inconvenience, time wasting and annoyance associated with dealing a with any main dealership.

Was that meant as a joke? This material that is in these enclosures/bags has got nothing to do with moisture in this application!

First I don't have a TDI engine in either of our cars, or a Skoda, but, it does seem that 2 versions at least, of these tanks with silicate enclosures in them were used, the original ones had the "tea bags" that could it seems burst, the later ones had a proper enclosure within the structure of the tank and it seems that they were robust enough. It seems that some coolants, maybe only G13 needed these "silicate booster packs" in them to allow for extended protection to the aluminium parts, VW Group's latest factory fill coolant is now G12Evo and these tanks with "Mit Silikat" are no longer fitted to new cars at any VW Group factories. Tanks changed in maybe 01/01/19 and the coolant was changed to G12Evo in 01/0820 - so why the difference in dates if this silicate boosting pack was only needed for G13? For me, VW Group should have made good strong and sound details about these changes available to at least some serious motoring publications as it stands it all sounds a bit like smoke and mirrors being handed out when these questions are being asked. Cars fitted with Mit Silikat tanks can end up with partially choked heater cores, and need to hand over £1000 to get the systems flushed out, heater core and header tank replaced and new coolant added, not clever and it seems money taken without any embarrassment ! Also for 2.0TDI engines built over a certain period in time, there is the possibility of ending up with the same heater core choking, but this time being due to casting sand being left in the engine castings, and with time it can move around the cooling systems and settle down in the heater core - same sort of price to repair! Both well documented VW Group design and manufacturing defects so not wear and tear and not user's fault!

Absolutely, no quick "new callipers, pads and discs" if you have that 256mm set up, still same as mk1 in that area for mk3 cars.

I'm guessing, just guessing that your 1.2TSI 88PS Fabia currently has 256mm front brakes with FSIII callipers, all Polos same platform with the 1.2TSI 110PS engine got 288mm front brakes with a different calliper type, and most Ibiza same platform eventually got 288mm front discs. I don't know what Fabia with 1.2TSI 110PS were fitted with, but I'd hope that they also got 288mm front discs. It might depend if your new insurer is fussy/interested enough to bother to require you to improve your front brakes.

You just need to get a non branded set of round black bolt covers to avoid these silver/grey summer ones getting wiped/ripped off by the snow/slush/ice? Like on VW Polo etc that have a hole in the centre to place a hook on to remove when they are recessed? Or a set of chemi blackened bolts and security bolt? Certainly getting them powder coated should avoid what quickly happened to the first steel wheels I bought for my wife's 2002 Polo, the paint disappeared very quickly and they rusted badly, but I covered that up by buying a cheap set of Golf trims for them - easier to clean in winter!

I suppose the next thing will be if you get approval with just flattening the beams, do you really want to drive a lot in darkness with just a flattened beam, or would you prefer to be have the usual kerbside extended cone of light, which is meant to be there and provide a bit more safety for walkers etc.

You will not be able to swop the pattern of these lights from RHD to LHD, all you do is to flatten the beam which is what most people do or should do before driving "on the other side of the road" - I would think that doing that is only okay for remaining UK reg'd, the minute that you re-reg in a LHD country, you will have to get these headlights replaced and the rear lights replaced as well, or fit a new separate rear fog light both to comply with local laws.

Traction control fault after getting hubs swopped over sounds a lot like an ABS issue, ie a hub without the ABS ring in it or the hub replacement ended up messing up exactly where the ABS ring is now wrt the ABS sensor, a full car scan would inform you about any of that being an issue as. Edit:- also give the brake lights a check to make sure that they are all working as that can or used to cause some faults to appear, an outside shot but free and easy to carry out.

I think that maybe someone has spilt oil down into there when adding engine oil, so I'd just dry off any spilt oil and check it again to see if it appears again. Is there any traces of oil escaping from the dipstick holder top or the oil filler cap?

The thing is, in the great scheme of things, this is a once only replacement within your period of ownership of this car, so I would have done both sides and tried to bin all the parts that I had removed, doing it that way means that this should be the last time you need to do this work, especially if you clean up all the brakes every year or every other year.

I edited my last post by the way!

The Billon dollar question - that seems to be a trade secret so you will not get a true answer to that one! Edit:- always remember that what you load into your car is made out of 2 "parts", the basic spirit is common for all brands who get supplied by a single refinery, that is essential to keep the supply chain sensible, where the brands add their "identity" is at the tanker filling stands at the refineries, as that is where the additive package is added to the spirit, each has their own "brew".