rum4mo

Probably too late for you, but if you are handy with wiring and a multimeter, you could have checked the rear bumper cable, there is a common supply feed and a common supply return to all these sensors, and an output from each of them. So, if the supply or return wire is broken at any point either all or some or one sensor will stop working - ie the supply and return is daisy chained from the controller to the RHS sensor and so on.

I keep both our cars in the garage, and I have been "pampering" them both with a couple of CTEK 5Amp chargers, first charger started to default to a safe low setting of maybe 12.7V when it as well out of warranty, so after messing about with it for a while I gave up and grabbed another new CTEK 5Amp being sold online. From that experience of CTEK chargers, I've come to the conclusion that you should ignore the "you don't need to reselect the same program when next using it" - now I always cycle the program selector through all the options back to the one I want to use as I've had the second CTEK also ending up on a safe but constant output after being on for a while, switched off, then reconnected a day later, I eventually reverted the older CTEK to behave as it should by cycling through the program options. Nowadays, as my own car tends to snooze in the garage, I make a point of checking its "current" voltage and take corrective action is it is lower than it should be when in the final "pulsed top-up stage". I have performed a "recon" charge on my wife's 2015 Polo EFB and that improved it over a long period, possible I'll repeat that once a year and I tend to test my batteries at service time using a CTEK charger to try to avoid getting let down. I've only been let down, or allowed us to be let down once with a car battery, and that maybe 20 years ago with a Ford Fiesta, I started it up on a Saturday morning in winter (wife used it 5 days a week), and thought "that did not sound too good" but conveniently ignored it - she got to and from work on the Monday but the battery was dead after she stopped to shop locally, the AA jumped it and she got home - but that battery was completely dead again, well in terms of being fit enough to turn the engine over - so I learned a lesson that day and wife used my Passat V6 for the rest of that week, which suited her okay!

I am not judging your early intervention as a "cash scattering" event, I think that you have just done what was needed for this car when considering it is used as an essential household tool time was always going to run out for that EFB while you owned that car. I also kind of jumped the gun with my 2011 Audi S4, I've got a new Bosch 019 AGM S5 A13 (95Ah 850A) bought in mid December ready to fit in place of the original VW Group Varta battery - three reasons for buying that, firstly that car is now 10 years and I don't fancy being caught away from and needing to buy a battery of any brand at a distress purchase price to get me going again, and second we have a Costco card and they were running a 15% off (I think) promotion which brought the price down to or below the Tayna price, and thirdly, I had a bad feeling concerning short time what the effect of Brexit would have on the price of Varta/Bosch batteries - so all in all I considered it was buying time despite what annual testing of that battery tells me about its health.

I think that you will either find that Skoda filled in everything okay, or it will be as VW have done over a period in time, and that means the capacity and technology are correct, but the vendor is that good old VW Group default JCB - ie Johnson Controls and the serial number is 111111111111 - which is a bit silly as the BEM label carries all the info including the serial number, regardless if the full BEM codes are not needed on these cars.

That label looks as good as it gets nowadays. I plan to use Varta in the vendor field when reg'ng my new Bosch AGM, Varta produce these batteries, Bosch don't, just a branding on a Varta product for a third party. Edit:- you would be very disappointed if you checked that QR code as it does not offer anything other than what is already on that battery. Another Edit:- as far as serial number is concerned, I'd just change the last number, for be creative and change the last 6 numbers for today's date.

Thanks for that, I've added that one to my iPhone, and will check if it works with the Carista dongle - I'd think it will, the more the better, maybe not!

@FabiaGonzales, just to keep this topic complete and up to date, could you please tell us - or remind us, which scan tool app you used to recode that battery, thanks.

Another "amusing" thing to add into fridge systems used to be Penta(?), if was used in mainly big stationary systems to get rid of waxes formed when fridge systems still used dinosaur oils, now that could waken up anyone doing any repair work that involved a brazing torch, smart fridge guys tagged the system at the fill points so they were sort of protected. What really concerned me was running an area that had lots of big old contactors flashing/crashing away both in the temperature heaters/compressors/fans circuits, but also having big old power amplifiers for air cooled shakers in the same area, a horrible mixture, but as I said I kept the brake on the trend to go green long enough for better/safer F-Gases to become available.

Maybe better and cheaper to find a mobile air con operator.

Look closely at any DIYer refill cans and make sure that it is advertised as being R134A as there are a few about that are not willing to name their product in terms of being an F-Gas. Maybe I'm behind the times, but when I was involved with fridge gases, mobile HVAC systems were not included in much F-Gas restrictions mainly as (a) they will leak and (b) they spread their leaks around so never the owner's fault while not being the repair/regas outlet's problem as long as the system tested as being "good" prior to recharging. Fixed fridge plant had far higher regulations placed on them, I had some systems that used fridge gases/fluid only once, ie equipment being tested was fitted empty, flooded after attached to a test set up then emptied prior to removal, all fridge fluid was logged onto the site by me by weighing all new sealed delivery cylinders, empty delivery cylinders weighed prior to returning to supplier and the same for all recovery cylinders arriving under vacuum and leaving loaded with used fridge fluid - no funny/fancy/lazy accepting cylinder stamped weights and/or quoted delivered weights of fridge fluid/gas, a horrible burden to carry, but needs must At one time it looked to me that on temperature test chamber we were going to end up needing to being greener by moving to butane etc drop in replacements but I managed to keep things going until that danger passed and more suitable but less desirable greener fridge gases appeared - thankfully.

I don't know the relative costs, but Carista does work for 2015 6C Polo although that function/task is not mentioned (I think) - thought maybe Carista have updated their list of what it can do for each model. 2015 6C Polo electronics package should be the same as that for a 2016 Fabia.

Bad wording by your Skoda dealership or at least maybe the service reception person, in these cars the BMS is a sub unit of the CAN-Gateway controller, in some early cars it existed by itself. BCM does all the important controlling of power to areas and users and it also therefore forces certain areas or user to sleep to avoid unnecessary draining of the battery when the car ignition is off car locked or unlocked.

That is a strange thing, though when I've dug deeply into things/facts, I have a couple of CTEK smart chargers and while at least one of them has a dedicated AGM setting/program, when you read the owner's manual fully, this AGM setting is only for "other" types of AGM and not for AGM drop ins as most people tend to be using if changing from EFB to AGM. I still have a nagging feeling that I should get an ex-work mate to bring his 2018 Audi A6 TDI out to me so that I can have another look at the settings, his friendly all makes garage replaced his dying EFB VW Group battery for a Yuasa AGM but did nothing else, so after finding that out, I offered to make any other necessary changes - on his car like my 2011 Audi S4, there is no easy dropdown menu to be looked at that includes battery technology, as I said earlier the car gets that info from the battery's VW Group part number that has been inputted, now I did not think that Audi fitted EFB batteries to TDI cars, especially the bigger cars, but I might be wrong. So the options are that if I look at the channel that has the battery part number listed, I can work out from built up knowledge, if that car was set up at factory for EFB or AGM and alter to an AGM part number if necessary, I did alter the serial number though to alert the BMS that a new battery had been fitted. I do understand while there are "facts" there does seem to be, at least to the enquiring mind, a certain amount of smoke and mirrors - basically to protect the motor trade, most cars on their second battery get "moved on" soon after so nothing really matters to the owner changing the battery, but for the rest of us, why on try to maximise the new battery life if only to do, or try to do what is meant to be done.

Just remember that BCM stands for Body Control Module in VW Group and others world, it is the BMS term that best suits that dongle and its lead, I'm not trying to be pedantic, just making sure that term is not used incorrectly in case it causes amusement or red face at dealership! No warning lights will come on if it is left disconnected, I only discovered that my wife's VW dealership had disconnected it and forgotten to reconnect it when they did some warranty work (replacing the upper gearbox end mounting) - and I became aware that stop/start was not working - ever. If leaving these cars unsupported while replacing the battery, you will get some warning lights on when next starting the car, driving it a short way should extinguish them, also maybe check the functioning of the electric windows, at least older cars "lost" the top/bottom stored values so needed the windows wound fully down and held for a few seconds and the same when wound fully up - though maybe not now an issue with these later cars, I don't know and would probably always support my car's systems if removing the battery.

Yes of course, just shows how little I use my mobile phone for "other things" like mapsme and what3words etc, I was just willing to believe that position was done by triangulation from multiple cell masts so never really thought about it. I only use stand alone satnav.

Yes, with VCDS the "fleece" option is the one to go for, some other scan tools like Carista only seem to offer "AGM" - when and if my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI needs a new battery I'll be able to check out by changing to "AGM" from "EFB" what that equates when reading the settings using VCDS. Unfortunately, I seem to have misread the probably urgent need for me to set the wheels in motion concerning that Polo's EFB battery, while taking the worst scenario situation, I checked up on Tayna battery site and discovered that the slightly bigger AGM battery was cheaper than the "same size" one, so I ordered in a new battery plate and battery insulator - and now as that Polo approaches its 6th birthday in mid August, the battery heath is still "very good"! The way you re-code these batteries in more modern cars is very easy, for my good old 2011 Audi S4, the setup was a bit different, both VW Group and BMW seemed to have a "wonderful" way of doing things back in the early days of "car needs battery coding" - they used the official part number, that system was later drummed out by the aftermarket trade as it was far too restrictive, so DIYer owners like me have had to do a bit of leg work making sure that we know the VW Group P/N of many AGM batteries so that we can help out friends by replacing their either smaller AGM batteries or same size EFB batteries with AGM versions! Thank goodness that way of doing things was forced to change, still it passes the time and keeps the brain working for someone that has become retired!

Satellite phone - as in mobile phone that uses satellites for reception, most of us only have cell phones as mobile phones and they need to be in "line of sight" of a cell mast.

So, you have bought a just over 3 year old Fabia with 12K miles on the clock from a dealer/trader a month ago and it is becoming troublesome - did it not can with some form of warranty that you can use, or at least it should be fit for purpose being as it is being troublesome a month after buying it. Which engine and output power has it got in it?

One of the things that happens to these motors is that the built in positional feedback system which is just a carbon coated track and a metal wiper, tends to get "dirty" and that leads to the controller getting confused when it asks for a position change and the feedback value does not change, so the system starts to "hunt". On auto climate control systems, demanding a change from HI to LO and LO to HI many times can temporarily clean up the track and get the system back working, but to fix it for longer would need either to take the motor apart and clean it up or replace it with a new one. HOT air in HOT weather finally drove me to sort out the temperature flap motor on my old Passat, I just bought a NOS part via ebay - buying the exact same part number as I had removed from my car.

All I can offer is, and this is not based on the actual noise on your recording but based on the fact that you are hearing it when driving on a light throttle at a steady speed - under these conditions, the EVAP valve will be getting pulsed to clear out any vapour gathering in the petrol tank - my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS used to make a lot of "peeping" noises that I got sorted by demanding that VW dump the plastic ribbed EVAP hose and fit the later smooth bored rubber hose - that worked.

BTW, ATS have/had a deal on Groupon, £35.99 for a vac out and refill with R134A - I used that last year for my wife's 2015 Polo, but failed to follow that up with going over the car with a fridge gas sniffer while the charge load was "normal" - so again this summer, I've found the standing gas pressure is basically zero, time to repeat that and see if it is an evaporator problem or a condenser problem!

Sorry but I can't hear anything out of the ordinary.

I'd not bother using a "recon" or desulphate charging program on an AGM battery, that stuff is intended for wet/liquid batteries, the trouble seems to be that many CTEK chargers have a "normal" and an "AGM" program, when you read their bumf, the "normal" is to be used with wet including EFB and normal AGM, the AGM program is for specialised AGM batteries only. It has taken me a while to wise up to that I must confess. Colder weather will always result in lower battery health as they are just mini chemical factories, so carrying out battery testing at -10C will always give you poor results when compared with testing at 25C - both temperatures given being battery as well as ambient temperature. Using a smart charger in recod program, CTEK for example on an older poorly EFB does seem to liven them up quite a bit, I do that once a year with the EFB in my wife's 2015 Polo and it is still claiming to be in very good condition when tested using my CTEK battery tester - though I only tend to test it at its annual service time in late July/early August. I tend to stick with recharging with a CTEK charger on recon program over night, remove the charger at 08:00ish, and carry out a test after 8 hours has passed. Edit:- for anyone who is curious or concerned about what is actually happening battery charge wise while driving, maybe consider visiting ebay and buying a cheap (£5) plug-in DVM, regardless of its overall accuracy, it will give you an idea of what the charging level is and when the charging IS and IS NOT happening - these DVMs are have a "ciggy lighter" plug built into them, so easy to live with.

That sounds like being a completely different issue, the OP was only having an issue with the key fob's tx/rx remote talking to the car, your problem sounds like being an issue with the immob chip in either the key or the car, do you have 2 keys and is it only one of them that will not work? If you only have one key then maybe time to get a second while getting this fault sorting out.

To me this sounds more like, the overall alignment is out a bit, you took it back to a place which sounds a lot like KwikFit, who tend to now have proper alignment benches, they checked its toing, which is still okay, but the machine spews out all the other alignment settings. I did that to my older daughter's previous 2009 Ibiza SC, it was only the toing I was getting reset as I had replaced the TREs and track rods - and I did not know that they had a Hunter bench, I did go away slightly concerned by the well out of spec castor readings, but I reckoned that the steering wheel had not been moved about as the machine's menu would have demanded, so the castor result would be meaningless. In reality, a bit silly it seems to me having an alignment bench and using it only for toe setting/checking at a tyre place, which then results with the customer being handed a full alignment results sheet with most settings/measurements in red ie out of spec - and being told "everything is good" at the least I would have expected that place to comment on all these other measurements and give advice as to what to do next, even although they were being asked to carry out a simple toe check, some/most times customers do not know what else might be wrong or needing resolved. I got the impression that the KwikFit I went to - it was local, would not get involved with trying to sort out anything except toe errors, a bit of a waste of a Hunter bench, maybe operator training will happen later on and some correction of alignment where possible will get offered, though with these cars, short of moving the lower crossmember around there is not much else that can be done expect for replacing damaged parts.