rum4mo

Just remember that BCM stands for Body Control Module in VW Group and others world, it is the BMS term that best suits that dongle and its lead, I'm not trying to be pedantic, just making sure that term is not used incorrectly in case it causes amusement or red face at dealership! No warning lights will come on if it is left disconnected, I only discovered that my wife's VW dealership had disconnected it and forgotten to reconnect it when they did some warranty work (replacing the upper gearbox end mounting) - and I became aware that stop/start was not working - ever. If leaving these cars unsupported while replacing the battery, you will get some warning lights on when next starting the car, driving it a short way should extinguish them, also maybe check the functioning of the electric windows, at least older cars "lost" the top/bottom stored values so needed the windows wound fully down and held for a few seconds and the same when wound fully up - though maybe not now an issue with these later cars, I don't know and would probably always support my car's systems if removing the battery.

Yes of course, just shows how little I use my mobile phone for "other things" like mapsme and what3words etc, I was just willing to believe that position was done by triangulation from multiple cell masts so never really thought about it. I only use stand alone satnav.

Yes, with VCDS the "fleece" option is the one to go for, some other scan tools like Carista only seem to offer "AGM" - when and if my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI needs a new battery I'll be able to check out by changing to "AGM" from "EFB" what that equates when reading the settings using VCDS. Unfortunately, I seem to have misread the probably urgent need for me to set the wheels in motion concerning that Polo's EFB battery, while taking the worst scenario situation, I checked up on Tayna battery site and discovered that the slightly bigger AGM battery was cheaper than the "same size" one, so I ordered in a new battery plate and battery insulator - and now as that Polo approaches its 6th birthday in mid August, the battery heath is still "very good"! The way you re-code these batteries in more modern cars is very easy, for my good old 2011 Audi S4, the setup was a bit different, both VW Group and BMW seemed to have a "wonderful" way of doing things back in the early days of "car needs battery coding" - they used the official part number, that system was later drummed out by the aftermarket trade as it was far too restrictive, so DIYer owners like me have had to do a bit of leg work making sure that we know the VW Group P/N of many AGM batteries so that we can help out friends by replacing their either smaller AGM batteries or same size EFB batteries with AGM versions! Thank goodness that way of doing things was forced to change, still it passes the time and keeps the brain working for someone that has become retired!

Satellite phone - as in mobile phone that uses satellites for reception, most of us only have cell phones as mobile phones and they need to be in "line of sight" of a cell mast.

So, you have bought a just over 3 year old Fabia with 12K miles on the clock from a dealer/trader a month ago and it is becoming troublesome - did it not can with some form of warranty that you can use, or at least it should be fit for purpose being as it is being troublesome a month after buying it. Which engine and output power has it got in it?

One of the things that happens to these motors is that the built in positional feedback system which is just a carbon coated track and a metal wiper, tends to get "dirty" and that leads to the controller getting confused when it asks for a position change and the feedback value does not change, so the system starts to "hunt". On auto climate control systems, demanding a change from HI to LO and LO to HI many times can temporarily clean up the track and get the system back working, but to fix it for longer would need either to take the motor apart and clean it up or replace it with a new one. HOT air in HOT weather finally drove me to sort out the temperature flap motor on my old Passat, I just bought a NOS part via ebay - buying the exact same part number as I had removed from my car.

All I can offer is, and this is not based on the actual noise on your recording but based on the fact that you are hearing it when driving on a light throttle at a steady speed - under these conditions, the EVAP valve will be getting pulsed to clear out any vapour gathering in the petrol tank - my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS used to make a lot of "peeping" noises that I got sorted by demanding that VW dump the plastic ribbed EVAP hose and fit the later smooth bored rubber hose - that worked.

BTW, ATS have/had a deal on Groupon, £35.99 for a vac out and refill with R134A - I used that last year for my wife's 2015 Polo, but failed to follow that up with going over the car with a fridge gas sniffer while the charge load was "normal" - so again this summer, I've found the standing gas pressure is basically zero, time to repeat that and see if it is an evaporator problem or a condenser problem!

Sorry but I can't hear anything out of the ordinary.

I'd not bother using a "recon" or desulphate charging program on an AGM battery, that stuff is intended for wet/liquid batteries, the trouble seems to be that many CTEK chargers have a "normal" and an "AGM" program, when you read their bumf, the "normal" is to be used with wet including EFB and normal AGM, the AGM program is for specialised AGM batteries only. It has taken me a while to wise up to that I must confess. Colder weather will always result in lower battery health as they are just mini chemical factories, so carrying out battery testing at -10C will always give you poor results when compared with testing at 25C - both temperatures given being battery as well as ambient temperature. Using a smart charger in recod program, CTEK for example on an older poorly EFB does seem to liven them up quite a bit, I do that once a year with the EFB in my wife's 2015 Polo and it is still claiming to be in very good condition when tested using my CTEK battery tester - though I only tend to test it at its annual service time in late July/early August. I tend to stick with recharging with a CTEK charger on recon program over night, remove the charger at 08:00ish, and carry out a test after 8 hours has passed. Edit:- for anyone who is curious or concerned about what is actually happening battery charge wise while driving, maybe consider visiting ebay and buying a cheap (£5) plug-in DVM, regardless of its overall accuracy, it will give you an idea of what the charging level is and when the charging IS and IS NOT happening - these DVMs are have a "ciggy lighter" plug built into them, so easy to live with.

That sounds like being a completely different issue, the OP was only having an issue with the key fob's tx/rx remote talking to the car, your problem sounds like being an issue with the immob chip in either the key or the car, do you have 2 keys and is it only one of them that will not work? If you only have one key then maybe time to get a second while getting this fault sorting out.

To me this sounds more like, the overall alignment is out a bit, you took it back to a place which sounds a lot like KwikFit, who tend to now have proper alignment benches, they checked its toing, which is still okay, but the machine spews out all the other alignment settings. I did that to my older daughter's previous 2009 Ibiza SC, it was only the toing I was getting reset as I had replaced the TREs and track rods - and I did not know that they had a Hunter bench, I did go away slightly concerned by the well out of spec castor readings, but I reckoned that the steering wheel had not been moved about as the machine's menu would have demanded, so the castor result would be meaningless. In reality, a bit silly it seems to me having an alignment bench and using it only for toe setting/checking at a tyre place, which then results with the customer being handed a full alignment results sheet with most settings/measurements in red ie out of spec - and being told "everything is good" at the least I would have expected that place to comment on all these other measurements and give advice as to what to do next, even although they were being asked to carry out a simple toe check, some/most times customers do not know what else might be wrong or needing resolved. I got the impression that the KwikFit I went to - it was local, would not get involved with trying to sort out anything except toe errors, a bit of a waste of a Hunter bench, maybe operator training will happen later on and some correction of alignment where possible will get offered, though with these cars, short of moving the lower crossmember around there is not much else that can be done expect for replacing damaged parts.

I always just stick with whatever the manufacturer recommends when it comes to service items, the " 4 years" term will correspond with many engine starts for each 100 miles travelled and shorter journeys whereas the 40,000 miles will corresponds with fewer engine starts per 100 miles travelled and so longer journeys.

Depends on where you are located in Scotland and how far you are willing to travel. AVW in Edinburgh removed CP for me a few years ago, they have all the necessary VW Group equipment and licenses to do that sort of thing, so I'd reckon it would include these later ways of enabling retro fits/functions. I'm sure that there will be other VW Group Indies that have invested in all the necessary kit like AVW have done, it just makes sense.

The clutch pressure plate or "cover" might have suffered a failure like a crack/split in the diaphragm - although that would lead to the clutch slipping if you were hard on it, like "booting it" when in 4th gear at low road speeds.

@hetty1, I think that you have missed a trick there, as with most things, there are no "free lunches", saving money by getting repair and servicing work done outside of any marque's dealership circle will always end up saving you money if nothing else goes wrong, but when it does you will be on your own basically, I've never ever been in doubt about this and know I run the risk of missing out on out of warranty monitory help, but it suits me.

Sorry for not posting to this thread earlier, but I don't think that removing the plug to any spark plugs and then refitting them will have caused this. The reason why you are getting this warning I can't say, maybe the charge level was low in the battery when you next tried to start it.

I wonder if now you should buy one of these cheap DVM that plug into the "ciggy lighter" socket, and then keep an eye on the voltage while driving, typically (though that is if the battery is already charged up to its preferred roughly 70% level - my guess), while accelerating and in normal use, the voltage will be quite low maybe round about 12.4V but when you are braking or on the overrun it should or could depending on present battery charge state, turn the charging voltage up to at least 14.5V sometimes even more for a short time. Now if you find that it is never or not very often making use of the wasted engine power or momentum to charge the battery up, then I'd think that the charge control system dongle or that area of the car' controller needs recoding or replaced. Once you have that info you could approach Skoda with it, okay the cheap plug in DVM is not an officially approved diagnostic tool and it will not be 100% accurate, but it will be easily accurate enough and give consistent readings so you can still use that to gauge the car's charge control system performance. I'd think that Skoda has a well tested way of dealing with these issues:- during visit 1 check battery and recharge and sent customer away, if visit 2 happens now understand customer just can't be fobbed off so try something else - easiest one will be to replace the battery (at the customer's expense), if visit 3 happens you have a persistent customer that wants to pay for more - or maybe even start digging deeper and sort it out even if it means having to charge Skoda UK for your warranty support. I'd be resisting "replace the battery at the customer's expense" option as they have tested that battery and it seems to still be fit for use.

Take a look at your car's battery, it normally quotes the CCC rating in DIN and EN and others maybe SAE. CCC is Cold Cranking Current in amps, and that measurement can be used to make an rough assessment of that battery's health I'd guess that your car battery is a 59Ah EFB with a CCA of 320A DIN / 640A EN, so the test is just showing that your battery is still okay.

Yup, Panasonic, although for some reason I thought they were Sony! Anyway, from the opening posting, I was getting the impression that "the car not recognising this key" was an immobiliser issue and so nothing to do with the coin cell in the key which just talks to to remote central locking module in the car. Sorry if I'm wrong, so if it is only a remote central locking issue, then yes the first thing to do is check the coin sell voltage or just replace it with a new Panasonic battery.

In reality, for a standard manufacturer supplied spare wheel, the tyre width will decrease and the aspect ratio will increase quite a bit, as the plan is just to retain the same rolling radius and cheaply provide a safe temporary spare wheel.

In my and other's experience, these TPMS will throw up a false warning once in "a blue moon", once the system has tripped the warning light it will stay on even if that event was false. I think that all you can do is to stop or get off the road ASAP and check all the tyres, if they look and feel okay to a kick, reset the TPMS and continue your journey, if air is escaping the TPMS warning will come back on then you will know that you more than likely have a slow puncture. It is alarming and annoying when that warning goes off, but better having it than not having it I think.

I could be wrong, but I thought that all main dealerships of all major car marques kept a small bit of "slack" in their workshop loading, maybe even paid to operate like that, to be able to attend to this sort of "in warranty" breakdown situation, okay that would not stop the owner being carless for maybe a day while they sourced parts, but it would mean they got better/quicker attention than just any old "walk in breakdown". The paying for this repair will initially be the only way that you get your car back quickly, after that, time to get tough/rough with VW Group and after a rejection letter to your letter requesting a refund, time to use other means, but make sure you issue them a letter and get a letter back. Edit:- in this case that Skoda main dealer is not helping you as a customer as you are not their customer, but they should be helping you as a Skoda owner!

I'd be talking to the dealership that you bought it from, which will be your Ford dealer, it will be them that provided the used car warranty and them that you have an issue with for that car failing so soon after you bought it. Does that warranty provide a loan car, I'd doubt it, but no harm in contacting them about this asap as you were in no position to truck it or drive it back to them. Edit:- I'm assuming that any extra Skoda warranty that that car had, if in deed it still had when sold, would have run out or is soon to run out, otherwise Trust Ford would not need to have given you a used car warranty.

That sounds a bit strange for an engine of this age - my Audi S4 has the similar vertical oil filter, but a cartridge element inside a plastic case, and the plan for removing that filter is to slacken off the plastic casing a couple of turns and that allows the retained oil to drain down into the sump, meaning that that oil filter assembly, after it initially fills up after a filter change, holds at least most of its oil until it gets slackened on replacement.. I thought that with these chain driven camshaft 1.2TSI engines, they had a non return valve below the filter and it was when people left the old seal in the engine side when fitting a new filter, that that non return valve stayed open and caused issues.