rum4mo

I can see the logic in it getting connected to ODIS and so to Skoda mothership, that would be sensible so that the service records are also updated on Skoda's database. The issue with trying to change from flexible servicing to fixed servicing could be causing a problem just because the service person does not frequently get this request and so has forgotten the procedure - remember they will just be "one click monkeys" anything requiring a bit more effort will be a tech's job.

If you have checked it with VCDS did it not offer a code that could point to one or the other, and what were Rosstech's suggestions for this code being logged. Yes the BXW engines tended to get quite noisy! One thing about removing the charge pipe, at least with the 1.2TSI 16V engines, VW Group official workshop manual points out that the sealing O-ring at both ends of that pipe should never be reused, and I discovered that I had ended up causing slight oil mist creeping out of the TB end onto the charge pipe body, so after reading about "never reuse the O-rings", I got my local VW garage to order a pair in, I cleaned the charge pipe ends up with brake cleaner, fitted the new O-rings after applying a slight "wipe" of new engine oil over the surfaces to aid seating/sealing - and the TB end of that pipe is again moist with oil! The fact that these O-rings needed to be ordered in and not held in stock means that not many people are bothering/needing to take that charge pipe off - I only initially removed it at 4 years and 30K miles, to make my life easier when replacing the spark plugs, there was no sign of oil mist on that TB end of that pipe before that!

My wife has a 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - so the later 16V belt driven cam shaft version of the 1.2TSI, I removed the turbo charge pipe when replacing the plugs and there was some oil in that pipe, so like you I wiped it clean. I don't think that you will ever avoid any oil ending up working its way through to the inlet manifold on of these engines, I would not expect that you will notice any oil usage between services, well not enough to require you to top up the engine oil level.

Good news, so I'll stick to my original plan to fit TT/R32 solid rear mounting bushes when the time comes! I did the same thing on my wife's last Polo a 2002 1.4 16V 75PS, well in that case got Ibiza Cupra solid rear mounting bushes though it had the older "consoles" set up.

Yes, I had read your other thread first, so just commented about that in this thread as I noticed it in that video

Something about this rings a bell, but well established VW Group Indies taking on this work, by now will have bought in all the required tooling, as many 12TSI 16V and similar 1.4TSI 16V petrol engined VW Group cars will have passed through their workshops for this work to be done. General all marques workshops might not yet have geared up for this work, so that could have been a fair comment/warning you were given.

I've just checked online on the UK based website that I bought my "B" version plugs from, and while they still quote the original "A" pack and plug numbers, further down the page it quotes that it has been revised to the "B" version.

My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and it came from the factory fitted with NGK PZKER7A8EGS which it seems is known when in a trade pack of 4 plugs as NGK 94968 When I replaced them, at the 4 year point I think that this plug had been revised into PZKER7BEGS which when sold in a trade pack of 4 plugs is called NGK 93231 - though it does seem strange that an "improved" version of plug results in it going from a trade pack reference 94968 down to 93231 - but maybe such is life! Finally, I would think, if all the above is true, that if you tried to buy in NGK 94968 you would get supplied NGK 93231. I hope that helps, I used a Google search to find out what "NGK 94968" was in terms of the actual spark plug product type number, the facts about the newer version or alternative version comes from using a VW Group parts listing which showed that the VW Group part number also changed to reflect the change in the NGK product type version numbering, and what I ordered was what the latest NGK website said was correct for that car - from my online sparkplug supplier, I did not receive aftermarket NGK labelled spark plugs, but genuine VW Group same plugs. Bother your 90PS engine and my wife's 110PS engine use the same spark plugs.

Your has not got a remote CD player has it, in my wife's 2015 VW Polo, I used to heard what I considered to be the glove box mounted CD player performing a quick maybe tracking arm re-cal - though either now I'm not listening for it or it has stopped doing that for some reason, maybe even an "within warranty" software update. Edit:- the windscreen washer action in the first vid clip does not look to be what you want from them.

VW Group have changed the washer spray designs a few times over the years, after the later "mist/fan" spray heads there were the "3 jets" which you could make out the 3 small jets on the spray heads, then a better "fan" spray head, VW Group introduced these changes at different times across the marques and within each marque's models. Lots and lots of people have changed the type of spray heads over to improve things, so far I have not found the need on the 2011 S4 or the 2015 Polo, nor have I worked out which variant is in each car.

Good, maybe chat to your supplier of the previous ones in case they can organise a refund and maybe that would force the manufacturer to improve their design or at least dimensioning/tolerancing.

There is tool available to remove and replace these bushes, some quite cheap versions on ebay, I seem to remember buying one for when I finally need to replace these bushes, probably with the Golf R32/TT ones.

If it has the original 1.2TSI 8V engine, check the cam chest purging valve to make sure that it has not got a snapped off stub where it is inserted into the engine top.

SEATs tend to be same, ie at least with RHD cars, the bonnet release is on the passenger side, VW and Audi have them on the driver's side for RHD cars.

No in this weather the cooling fan would not normally be running, I agree with what @TerFarsaid, ie in colder weather when the engine is not being asked to do a lot of work, it will not not be dumping enough waste heat into the coolant to keep up with what you are removing to heat the cabin.

I think that I bit the bullet and spent a bit of time making quite a few "repair washers" to have ready for the next time, beans tins for me too!

Normally only a person or workshop that has fully licensed VW Group diagnostic tooling can carry out this task properly as the car needs to be connected to, in your case, Skoda mothership, if that replacement unit is second hand and not reported stolen then it can be re-assigned to your car.

Yes, it seems like quite a "reasonable" proportion of people with EFB and using their cars for short journeys have ended up needing to replace their EFB, I think that with longer and frequent journeys even these EFBs along with Stop/Start can last lot longer, I'm keeping an eye on the EFB in my wife's 2015 Polo and hopefully find the point when it needs changing before it lets us down. There was also a quality/life issue with some brands over a manufacturing period, I seem to remember that that Polo has an Exide EFB.

Oh, that is not good, so the sensor is in the reservoir, bother that!

I've never ever had any trouble with a VW Group car brake fluid level sensor, but I'd think that it is just a float switch. So, if that is correct, after disconnecting the connector, remove the cover-sensor assembly and connect a DVM across the connector pins and see if moving the float fully up and fully down changes the state of the circuit through the sensor contacts, if it doesn't then you need a new cover-sensor.

I don't think that the inspection period changes, but maybe you didn't mean that it does, so normally Inspection is carried out every other year. With variable servicing, it all depends on how you use the car as the oil change warning could appear after 15Kms or up to 30Kms. Fixed servicing just changes things so that the oil change warning comes at 15Kms or 12months (or maybe even 375 days), many people like to keep the oil change period to a maximum of 15Kms and 365days especially as the car gets older. You know the old saying "oil is the life blood of your engine", maybe not essential but a reasonable way of doing things to help look after your engine. Edit:- my guess at 375days could be wrong, 372days maybe as said earlier!

Oh! Not much good if that outer shell can not stay down in the arm! I don't have an answer though, the usual tool that DIYers buy is for the original or upgraded Golf mounting bush, and it draws the complete original bush assembly down into the arm.

I'd think that your best plan now is, at or before its 4th birthday, get your local dealership to carry out a year 4 service, inspection and brake fluid change, and maybe helpful to include a full wheels off brake service, and maybe even an AC service including gas charge check and pollen filter. Then, if it suits your expected usage, request they change the service scheduling from variable to fixed.

As far as I have read, that charger that you bought from Halfords is a safe smart charger, battery maintenance unit, so it will charge the battery safely while it is connected to the car, and fully charge it and eventually just restart trickle charging when the battery voltage has dropped by a certain level. So like my CTEK chargers, fit and forget if that car is in a garage with power. The reference to the battery only being re-charged up to roughly 75% is how the car looks after its battery, ie attempting to never waste energy/fuel/emissions by keeping it fully charged up - but for my money, getting it fully charged up with a smart charger is a better way to look after these EFB batteries. If the correct/smart VW Group battery post covers have been fitted to that car, the -VE post cover should try to get the message across that always connect to the local body earth post, this originally would mean while carrying out a jump start with another battery, but more recently it also covers any connecting from another power source to a car battery that has a bolted on battery management system dongle. Obviously the +VE post cover will not have any pictorial advice because connecting directly to that post is still the way to do things. Edit:- from my experience of only 2 cars that have stop/start and EFB batteries, the car that has been used most regularly prior to movement restrictions, and never used for extremely short journeys, and is now 5.5 years old, has a battery in much more health than the car that is 1.75 years old and was left relatively used for the first 4 months of its life. So despite what is claimed for EFB batteries, if the car is not used regularly then the battery will age quicker. Also due to lack of use, as soon as I return either of our cars to the garage, they are re-connected to their CTEK smart charger-battery maintenance units - maybe overkill, but it seems to work for me. AGM batteries seem to live a lot longer, my own car is almost 10 years old, but low mileage and spends most of its life sleeping in the garage - and its original AGM battery is still okay but will get replaced this year to try to avoid letting me down when away from home. The second car that has stop/start and an EFB battery is my daughter's and I think that she still connects it up to a CTEK charger/battery maintenance unit "now and again" while lockdown is in place, it will get used once or twice a week to go into work and maybe once a week when necessary, for food shopping - but she can not get that car into their garage so using a charger is only getting done as and when she feels it is necessary.

What lots of people do in this situation is to tap/hammer the rear drums. If you chose to try this, make sure that you have the car in gear and the front wheels blocked so that it can not move on your sloping driveway. Let handbrake lever OFF, find a length of wood that you can reach through the wheels if possible and strike the end of the wood with a hammer a few times aiming to rest the wood on the outer edge of the drum if possible, that should shock the shoes to release. That is exactly what the AA etc would do to get you going - but as said already, these brakes, probably all of them, need to be serviced, so in the case of the rear brakes, drums off and swept surface cleaned back to shiny or slightly grey finish - it will currently have some black areas, all dust removed and shoes and linkage checked that all is still free to move. Lub where appropriate. Edit:- you might even be lucky enough to hear the shoes releasing when tapping the drums hard.