UndertheRadar

Bilstein B6 damptronic if Skoda don’t cover them for you.

I have yellow stuff with BSD discs. No issues. Good pedal even from cold.

Sounds more like a faulty wiper stalk going by the symptoms.

Sent

I’ve a 2019 L&K that’s in extremely good condition and have been considering selling for a bit now. Not standard but extremely well done and maintained to a standard most cars never even come close to. 46k Haldex done twice so far and dsg done once. If interested I’ll send you some pics. Someone else asked about it recently and I lost track of who and which thread 😩.

When the latch starts to fail, it randomly opens and then doesn’t. The drive away locking starts messing about. Sometimes trying to lock everytime you hit 10 mph, which gets really annoying in traffic. Sometimes the outside handle becomes unresponsive and then sometimes the inside, and eventually both. It can also cause faults to show on the other doors along with short to ground and implausible signal. The door that’s messing about and not opening with the handle needs a new latch. Think they’re about £250 from TPS.

It needs a door latch. There’s a good chance it will eventually fail completely, and very likely in the locked position as I’ve seen many times.

Technically, you can set the system to show whatever interval you choose. You can even match the oil and inspection service to the exact same timeline so they both come up together. But I absolutely would not be running any engine that long between oil services. I have mine on fixed and, and it has had 6 month oil changes since I bought it. By that, I mean, it gets fresh oil and filter every 4k or so.

I set the pro up initially and used my phone for the adjustments for the first few weeks, while I got used to the settings and found one I liked. From then I tend to forget I even have it. Can’t remember the last time I even opened the app to be honest. The immobiliser function is all but useless. It’s a 30sec job to swop the connections over at the pedal and disable that function anyway. Mine has been set to sport plus on the max setting for quite a few years now. I’d say it’s a good sign. It just works very well and does the job it’s supposed to reliably and flawlessly. Otherwise I’d be shouting at it and that’d remind me I had one.

I have a DTUK Pro version fitted to mine for quite a few years now. No issues and to be honest, I constantly forget I have one until a thread here reminds me about it.

It dropped a bit. Maybe 5-10mm. The adaptive dampers already let it sit lower as standard. I think the total drop from a standard factory setup without adaptive is about 20mm. I’ve had no issues whatsoever. No more hitting bump stops over the slightest thing and has never been a problem when filled on journeys. It practically doesn’t dip at all when 4 up. No problems over speed bumps etc.

The Eibach pro kit works extremely well with those shocks. No rubbing even with 4up and the dog in the boot. Sits lovely and rides better than standard springs.

Did you authorise the stripping or did you just authorise the service campaign?

Considering selling my L&K 272 estate at the minute. Haven’t listed it yet as still looking for a replacement car. 2019 with 45k.

I can only comment on those that I have driven myself and mostly in Golf R and Audi S3 variants. These would be friends vehicles. The littco has no real noticeable lag in either of the versions you mentioned and picks up quickly. The power max I couldn’t see any noticeable lag either until you moved to the stage 2 unit, and then it was definitely perceptible but still manageable for low rev town usage if you adjusted your throttle inputs. Never tried the turbo technics unit but have driven a golf with the Revo V2 unit and no noticeable lag either. In a lot of cases the lag I noticed was more down to the dsg rather than the turbo units, until you started moving up the range to move into 500+ bhp capable units. All the vehicles I have driven with uprated units all also have pedal boxes to adjust throttle input settings which may very well be a factor. The Revo V2 is quite a bit more expensive and more than you need for the gains you are looking for. The S3 I drove was running around 550bhp, and isint used as a daily.

No. Refuses to recognise the update file via usb or sd. I’ll end up buying a token and updating it via my mates diagnostic in the workshop when I get a chance or more than likely, when I’m forced to. lol.

It does have the coin tray but I have mine cable tied up behind the dash out of the way completely and use the app if I need to adjust it. after the initial setup I’ve had no need to go near it though and forget it’s even there until something like this thread reminds me I have one. 😂

Another vote here for a pedal box. Makes the throttle response at low revs far more manageable. Completely removes the factory throttle lag when pulling away or needing a sharper response for overtaking etc. Will also work with a Map if you decide to go down that route, and can be changed to another car if you also decide to go for a 190 as well. I have a DTE pedal box pro on mine, which I can highly recommend. It’s fitted and tucked up behind the dash, and I use the phone app to change settings if required. im sure some of the others will have recommendations for which ever units they are using as well. Should give you some options to look at if you decide to try one.

Mine does it every now and then. I’ve put it down to a comms error when connecting at startup. If it happens when using CarPlay, it sometimes rectifies if I ask Siri to play all songs. Only ever had the entire system go blank once, and a reset corrected that as well. im assuming something doesn’t wake up as quickly as the other units in the entertainment system, and causes the problem. A reset by holding the power button until the screen goes blank, and then pressing the power button to bring the system back on again, seems to allow the unit to wake up and then connect properly. could be a software issue as well, as mine refused to allow updates via the USB or SD and just claimed no files found, so I gave up.

Have you tried holding the power button until the system resets? I’ve seen that fixing the no sound issue for a while.

Standard IS38 will hit your target all day long and remain reliable with a quality map and proper maintenance. if you want to remain OEM in looks, you could try the Revo ETR V2 but it’s an eye watering price. If around 400bhp is your end target, I would save the money and run the standard unit and put the cash into suspension or brake upgrades instead. But that’s just my personal opinion. Your definitely going to need to upgrade the shocks/springs and anti roll bars, along with the brakes at 400bhp.

I’ve seen the sealant running into the tubes, but the cover leaking into cylinder 1 and 4 is reasonably common. VAG in a lot of cases worded it as internal seepage and wouldn’t cover it under warranty. happened frequently on the 1.8 tsi as well. Normally caught on during a plug change or when it was bad enough to cause a misfire. These coil pack pullers are a lifesaver for removing those packs.

Just use a reliable tuner. Something like the Revo performance pack with stage 2 and the dsg map would take you happily to your target safely. this thread was most likely caused by using a cheap map or an unreliable source, which among other issues was very likely over fuelling for one. You could also source your bits separately. R600, DO88 intercooler and hard pipe kit, elbow, intake hose, etc and select your trusted map of choice. And if your still concerned about the IS38, then something like the power max from Garrett will cover you happily.

Did you check to see if the cam cover was leaking ?

Garrett power max is a solid upgrade and well tested.