UndertheRadar

No. It was under warranty so we didn’t strip it last time. Both times it cracks badly in either direction when nearing the limit of turn. So say the last half turn in either direction. sounds like when a bearing fails for example, and cracks when turning. Had to remove links to even tell it was in the rack. Stands out a mile inside the car, but needed a scope to tell it was coming from the rack from engine bay.

Sorry. Can an admin delete one of the double posts please. wifi dropped as I was posting and it posted twice when it came back on again. 😞

Has anyone else had a rack failure? Im assuming it’s just my usual horrendous luck with cars, but my rack is making noises again, not even a year after they replaced it the last time. Waiting to see if they’ll replace it again as it hasn’t even done 5k since it was fitted. My mates convinced someone doesn’t like me and has a voodoo doll they’ve used to curse me.

Has anyone else had a rack failure? Im assuming it’s just my usual horrendous luck with cars, but my rack is making noises again, not even a year after they replaced it the last time. Waiting to see if they’ll replace it again as it hasn’t even done 5k since it was fitted. My mates convinced someone doesn’t like me and has a voodoo doll they’ve used to curse me.

I would say no as I didn’t notice any difference when lifting one or the other. The alloy arms are listed as a lighter version of the same arm when upgrading for the track to try and save weight where possible. Not sure it’ll make a big difference in a passenger car with variable loads at any given time. Camber was fine, but the alignment need reigned in quite significantly after fitting to correct it. They do have another similar arm but it designed with offset bushes to adjust caster. Should be a TRC1071 arm. I went with the H&R bars due to them claiming no grease needed due to the bushes they use. Only time will tell if this is true or not.

Contact Bilstein and ask them the question directly for a definitive response.

Recently changed mine from the OEM bridgestones to pilot sport 5’s and adjusted them to 245. They are noticeably quieter and seem smoother on the road.

Just by way of an update on this. Anyone thinking of going down the same route to upgrade suspension and roll. everything so far is going well apart from the new OEM front drop links, which have started to pack in very quickly. obviously not up to the extra work load being asked of them from the bar being quite a lot stiffer. I’ve ordered super pro trc4301 links and will report back once they arrive and I’ve had a chance to fit them.

The ARB will show under different circumstances. Going up or coming down off speed ramps etc. Sounds more like a rubber creaking. the arms sounds like a metal creaking and appears during slow speed manoeuvres or when crawling in traffic, just before you would come to a stop. The first time I heard it, it sounded like the low brake pad warning, and eventually almost like metal on metal when pads are done. Just not as high pitched as a worn pad. I uprated the roll bar at the same time (wasn’t making a noise) only to avoid further hassle removing some of the new items when pulling out the cradle. Basically, I had ramp time (a rare thing indeed) and did everything.

Mine was driving me nuts and my OCD decided it had, had enough of it. The only thing I would do differently if I had the cradle out again (roll bar) is for an alignment kit. Racingline do one that looks like it might cut out all the faffing about when doing the wheel alignment, and save a load of ramp time. The arms are definitely the source of the creaking/grinding and well worth the cost in mental health benefits alone.

The entire arm was replaced as it wasn’t that much more expensive to buy the entire arm compared to buying the bushes and the ball joint separately. Also the fact that on quite a few occasions, the OEM arms can allow the replacement bush to flex/move after being pressed in. The arm must distort slightly during fitment. This requires a new arm anyway. With all the time wasted messing about pressing, it’s just handier and quicker to replace the arms. it’s personal preference though, as I’ve seen the bushes you refer to giving great results as well. I actually was initially going to try that route until I found the ones I used and for the reasons above just went that route.

I only have the front arms on hand at the minute. They are super pro TRC1070. The rest I don’t remember or was ordered trade on my friends account. I may have some part numbers on some of the receipts from the items I ordered directly but I’ll have to look tomorrow when I get the chance. It’s all fitted to a 272. my heads just not straight enough to look tonight as my TBI has been getting steadily worse since last Christmas and cognitive function this evening is horrendous.

If you’re only doing the arms then it’s a DIY and you could set the alignment by line of sight if you’re not too far from tyre centre to get it done. It will need adjusted as mine was WAY off when the new arms went in. The new arms were £230 or thereabouts plus postage depending on where you are. Everything to N.I from the mainland is like a million pounds to send these days, if they’ll even send it at all. A lot of mainland delivery is free.

It was a concern while looking into replacements. Superpro claimed no difference in NVH levels, which is something i’m always sceptical about until I can test myself. I have to say though, since fitting them, I have genuinely not noticed any difference at all in NVH levels. (So far) the car is driving quieter and smoother than ever, which has even been noticed by passengers. I’ll just have to drive it and see what longevity is like, but so far there are no negatives at all. obviously, if I do come across any, I will report back to help others avoid any pitfalls if attempting the same fix for issues of their own.

I’ve seen some others reporting a noise from the front end during slow traffic through town etc or slowing for lights, parking etc. I have over the last while replaced a few bits to help sort my suspension to a state I’m more happy with than the factory offering. When the front shocks were replaced along with top mounts and new bearings, it removed the usual rumble noise. however it still left the creaking/grinding noise that myself and others have mentioned. from around 10k the dealers have been greasing as usual to remedy the noise, which always came back. Now the warranty is up and it’s not an issue, the cause has been found in the lower arms. The bushes allowed enough flex/travel to actually rub the arm. I’ve replaced both front arms with Superpro TRC1070 items and the front end is now absolutely silent. Pics for reference

From the start: Bilstein B6 damptronic (DCC) shocks front and rear. Bilstein front top mounts. ordered direct from bilstein. original springs were perfect and reused. If I was doing it again I would still pick the OEM spring as it now rides perfectly without lowering, and allows comfort and handling equally, without compromising one or the other. OEM bearings for front top mounts front drop links rear drop links ordered from TPS which is who supplies dealer parts. Front lower super pro arms TRC 1070 ordered from Progressive parts front and rear H&R anti roll bars (set to stiff.) ordered from H&R directly.

I don’t remember off the top of my head now, sorry. The mounts were ordered directly from Bilstein and the bearings came from Dealer parts department (technically TPS). I only replaced the fronts as the rears are completely different and were like new given the reasonably low mileage. I found the new front lower arms to be fantastic upgrade, if your suffering from any knocks or creaks as well.

I fitted the bilstein top mounts along with a new OEM bearing at the same time when replacing the B6’s in my own, to save any hassle. The B6 will make a fantastic difference to the overall handling and drive of the car.

Most likely coming in past the seal on the tail light.

Fitted pilot sport 5’s to mine recently which seem to be quieter and slightly smoother than the s001’s that came off it. Time will tell how they last and drive. I did change them to 245/40/19 so that may have also been a factor, but it definitely gave me a much larger selection of available tyres to choose from than the 235 OEM fitment.

DCC or non DCC suspension? I replaced the terrible Monroe shocks with Bilstein B6 damptronic’s on my DCC equipped car, as have several others. I refitted the original springs as they were in perfect condition and I had no interest in lowering the car. These completely transformed the drive and comfort of the car and removed the bangs and uncontrolled knocks and bounce that you are describing. I then recently replaced the bottom front arms with superpro upgraded items to remove the roll from the bushes (which had actually allowed the arm to rub) and completely annihilated the creaking and grinding these factory bushes cause. At the same time I installed H&R front and rear roll bars. The car now drives unbelievably well. Actually not only retains the factory comfort levels but improves apon them in a way that can only be described as transformative. The car glides over road undulations that would have felt like a crater before, without even noticing they are there. The handling in corners is on a level with my wife’s ST250 and no longer try’s to push wide on roundabouts and tight bends. The handling and ride comfort now feel controlled and safe. I’m no longer concerned about manhole covers or the front end washing out on me, especially in the wet, and winter driving in the dark is going to be so much more relaxed than it ever could have been before. This isint so I can drive around like an R plater on coke either, it’s genuinely nice to just know everything is controlled and safe on leisurely drives and day trips out with my family, without having it ruined by what felt like the front end collapsing when driving over the slightest thing at all.

Pic for reference when fitting roll bars. New bottom arms from super pro fitted at same time.

I ordered them from Caffyns Skoda and seat parts online. Very nice to deal with and no issues. wheels are handy to clean and keep over the winter months. Just had to try a bit harder for a touch up in Matt for the odd stone chip, but otherwise have been great when the snow did arrive, and no problems with sourcing 18” winter tyres.

I recently fitted the lower super pro front arms and the front and rear H&R roll bars to mine. Used the H&R for the same reason you mentioned. No noise from the bushes and made a good difference to roll and turn in. only time will tell if the bushes work long term to remove squeaking issues permanently or not.

Rarely had anything that didn’t come off after using quick detailer, a course clay bar and a glass scraper. Some tree sap sets like bloody concrete on glass. Definitely needed the glass scraper and a lube (glass cleaner, qd, snow foam etc)