VRT24

We don't get such a message flash up. You say that lane assist has its box ticked on the infotainment screen, but is it also ticked in the maxidot display as well? I think I read somewhere that there was a software glitch that caused a system to not work right and an indicator was differing status indications between infotainment and maxidot. Anyway glad you are getting it to another dealer so that hopefully they can confirm that you are not getting the steering wheel resistance/vibration and, more importantly, fix it!

Does your car have the SOS / breakdown / info buttons up by the rear view mirror? If so is the SOS button showing a green light when the ignition is on? Often the early signs of problems with the eSIM are losing the SOS service - but the car should flag warning messages up if that is happening. If you do have the SOS etc. buttons, and the green light is on, then the eSIM is connected. Does the satnav show roadworks / traffic delays on routes you put in - if it does, then the car is connecting ok. On my Infotainment (not Amundsen) there is a small globe like symbol in with the symbols on the top row (things like mobile phone info if connected) and it goes whiteish when the system has connected to the web. If yours has this info line, what's the globe show?

There have been posts about problems with the eSIM which seem to relate to recent builds - don't know if yours has built in SIM, but it sounds like you'll have to get it to the dealers. Without knowing the Amundsen system myself, if you can it might be worth trying to get it to connect to your mobile phone if you set that up as a wifi hotspot. If the car can connect to your mobile then i may be something else and not an eSIM fault.

You are spending in the region of £20k on a car and are arguing over an extra £300! Even considering rejecting the car! Do you think you can repeat the purchase with the cheaper spare at the same or better money? Would be surprised. I suspect you cut a very good deal on the purchase and hence why the dealer a) won't absorb the increase and b) is happy to cancel as they will no doubt find it more profitable to have it in stock to sell at a better price than the deal with you. Pay the money and get the car you wanted to enjoy now.

Blimey... what's one of those then!!😂

Well it seems we are one of the lucky ones - absolutely no issues with the wipers on our new Karoq.

I would not have bought/paid for/driven away the car without knowing its full service history. Doesn't instill confidence in the selling dealer if they seem happy to fob you off with comments that 'its online for you to access' - why haven't they done that for you? Surely that is in their interest to make the vehicle more saleable. The fact they have not done this would ring alarm bells for me - where will you stand if the online service record shows no services have been done? Plus I would not be over confident with an 'independant garage' doing Skoda recall / software update work as, unless they are a one-marque specialist for Skodas, it is unlikely they will have full access to Skoda's computer systems/database in order to do that. For example, there have been much publicised issues with the 1.5TSI engine resulting in key software updates being needed to cure - not in the remit of a jack-of-all-trades garage. As others have said - speak to a Skoda dealership ASAP, and if they should be reluctant to help you then put a call into Skoda UK customer service.

What settings are showing on the infotainment under Driver Assistance Settings? Are there two options (ALG and LA) or just the one? Sounds like neither (if you have both) are on - ALG as I understand it is meant to keep you in a lane (not meandering from side to side) whilst LA would vibrate the steering wheel if you cross a lane marking without indicating. Pic (from a post on this forum albeit for a Superb) shows older options settings screen with ALG and newer without it. Hope this helps.

Ok. Do do a follow up post once the mechanic does the adjustments, as it will be helpful for others to know if this could be a fix for their boot rattles. Seems rattles do crop up from time to time!

Did you do the adjustments and was it sucessful?

If you mean how do I release the back seats from inside the boot/luggage area - if yours is a new Karoq with Varioflex seats, then don't bother hunting for a way to release them from in the boot. The lever in the boot shown in the owners manual is only for non-Varioflex seating. For Varioflex seating, the only release mechanism is the loop that comes out from the join between the seat backs and their squabs (bits you sit on). See this for details -

OP says 'hasnt got lane assist'.

I believe that the radar/sensors that look for road markings for lane assist also cover other functions. If they become obscured or what they are seeing isn't clear to them, then they will flag up a 'not ready' type warning on the dash. So it could be the snow was causing a problem and that just stopping and restarting gave the radar/sensors time to get back 'online'. When we first got our Koraq, I noticed a warning pop up on the dash when first starting, and was concerned it was a possible fault. Eventually found out that it was one of the front radar/sensors that covered some safety function or another (can't remember which) but it was merely flagging up that the function was not active for about 30 seconds whilst things warmed up/adjusted themselves. Guess it was to stop us relying on whatever function it was only to crash because it was offline! So I would only worry in your case if it starts happening more often and when there is no snow.

Just seen Sanqhar's photo. Assuming the bump stops could be adjusted, I'd move both sides equally so as not to result in unequal pressure between the two sides of the tailgate. If there is no adjusting the bump stops, then the locking catch/mechanism needs to be adjusted to pull the tailgate tighter to the car/bump stops. That I would leave to the dealer in all honesty.

Glad the old broom ploy worked for you! I can't get to our Karoq at present and hence can't advise on tailgate locking mechanism/catch adjustment. In theory, you are forcing tailgate away from car body wiith the broom which would indicate that the bump stops (assuming there are any) are not extended sufficiently to maintain pressure on the lock catch when it's connecting to the 'hoop' on the car. The tailgate seals probably provide a degree of pressure, but not enough when you hit a bump and cause the tailgate to move. Unless someone else here can help more re adjustment of bump stops or whatever else is involved, I'd video the noise with and without interaction of the broom and show it to your dealer so they can't say 'can't replicate any noise/rattle sir'.

Its possible that the tailgate latching mechanism isn't keeping the tailgate as tight up against the body in its closed position as it should, and therefore moves slightly when going over bumps/holes etc.. The way I discovered that (on another car) was to sit in the back seat with a short broomhandle and, as the wife drove over bumps, I applied pressure to the tailgate with the broom as if trying to push it open from the inside. Loh and behold no rattles - that showed to me that the locking catch mechanism needed adjusting. It may be worth you trying this to eliminate that possible source of rattling - just don't let the neighbours see you being driven around by the wife with you in the back seat manhandling a broom!!

Tailgate? Seen reference on a forum about wiring loom going in/out being loose and generating a knocking sound.

Our Edition has space-saver spare and non-variable floor. The 3 net pack supplied with the car was 57A8676137EY - black rather than grey. Your best way of establishing which set would fit your Sportline is to contact a dealer for the part number. I've found Skoda Parts Ireland (Burns Car Sales) very useful - send them an email and they'll get back to you in a few days. Their prices are also very good although the DPD courier shipping cost means you would probably need to 'build' your order up to get the best value.

Here's our Karoq after the detailer gave it his new car detail and ceramic coating. He only did ceramic finishing to the faces of the wheels, so when the warm weather returns next year I'll have them off to clean and coat the barrels, but as its not a daily driver the cleaning process shouldn't be too bad then - besides I love the smell of VP Dragon's Breath!

Fair dos - but why then can't a charger be connected directly to both the battery terminals? The dealer was the one who told me about the negative connection to the negative block behind the battery as I was asking whether I could put my charger fly leads onto the terminal clamp bolts (the same as I have on another car) without causing any probs.

I agree - I'd be reluctant to try disconnecting the SS sensor. Haven't given our under bonnet area anything more than a cursory glance since we took delivery, so haven't investigated the battery negative terminal set-up fully. But it would look as though the bit you have marked would be it - I think all it does is decide if charge being generated needs to go into the battery or not, so logically it would be the final 'switch' in the circuit going back to the negative terminal. As to switching SS off religiously, I would think that would only stop the engine shutting down (when SS conditions would support) but the sensor would still be active in determining whether or not to charge the battery - and presumably it would still be seeking to only allow a charge to c.12.5V level. I'd leave SS on and see what happens. If the battery is on the way out, then I'd think the SS system would rarely kick in as it would be trying to keep the battery charged up, and if it does start operating then that would indicate things are relatively OK. I can't give examples from our car as its petrol and as yours is diesel then the SS set up parameters probably are not identical - for example the SS on ours will start working after just a few minutes / half a mile distance and that may not be how things should happen on the diesel. The car does have control - provided the charger is not connected directly to the negative terminal. As it says in the manual, you should connect the negative lead to the point behind the battery which should therefore mean the circuit passes through the 'gizmo'/SS sensor/call it what you will, and that will then enable it to control the level of charge it lets the battery reach before disconnecting the charging circuit. If you connect the charger directly to positive and negative battery terminals, then the state of charge is only controlled by the charger.

We also have the USB-C by the RVM, and it too is not permanently live. I've looked high and low in manuals and the infotainment but can't find an option that turns the socket to permanently live. So it looks like the parking mode on the dashcam will not be available

Post #7 perhaps explains the 'gizmo' better - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/465186-battery-charging/

I'm assuming you are charging it with the battery still in situ rather than out of the car. If in situ, then I believe that it won't go above 12.5V after charging because of the S/S system. It is so there is some 'space' for any regenerative charge to be stored, controlled by some electronic gizmo connected to the battery - and is why you shouldn't charge the battery using the terminals direct, bypassing this gizmo. Re the battery indicator 'window' - on lead acids these are not particularly scientific, they tend to just be an indicator of the electrolyte level and are a green ball that floats on it (often shining a torch over the 'window' makes it more apparent that it is a green ball you are seeing). As the electrolyte level falls, the ball disappears down the float tube and gives the impression of a darkening the 'window'. If your window is green, then that is probably the green ball and if so means the electrolyte level is OK.

AmazonBasics Double Braided Nylon USB Type-C to Micro-B: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics Unfortunately though, its only free delivery if you spend £20+ (unless you pay for Amazon Prime).