fr1nklyn

Yes, yes, they say the same for the water pump 🤣

Which means I’ll try to do while still under warranty 😅

Thanks for the info @chrisgreen ! I’ll check it next time I visit the local dealer. But the price doesn’t look very nice 😕 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/3v9061163-double-sided-boot-mat-skoda-35837.html I’m also unsure what would be the case in which I would use the carpet side? 🤔

You did well to order aftermarket boot liner - the OEM one is from something like thin plastic and looks cheap. I ordered one when I purchased the car, expecting to get rubber liner like on my previous car Octavia 3.

Did the second service today on 20k: Oil change All filters Haldex oil w/o filter cleaning, I’ll do it on the next service Brake fluid (maybe it was a bit early for this) And finally cleaned it inside and outside.

@GreenGeorge 2023 should be with G12Evo coolant which is purple. Unless it has done 100k miles for less than 2 years, it should be with the factory coolant. I’m not sure are the water pumps still failing on the Facelift S3, but if the car history doesn’t include it, most likely it wasn’t changed. Of course there is always a chance that someone has topped up the wrong coolant, but there is no easy way to find this out. Ask the dealer how much does it cost to change the coolant for the peace of mind or negotiate it in the final price. There are 10-12 liters if I recall correctly with many circles and it requires diagnostics.. changing it is a pain in the neck 😆

Traffic is just horrible in the capital. I get 8-10L/100km from 2.0 TDI 200hp.. :/

I used oil pump extractor but this is what I have. You can also use turkey baster or similar tool, whatever you have. You can't suck everything as some of it goes down the pistons which is the purpose of it. No, you don't add any oil in the chamber. The injector cleaner you put in the spark plug holes will contaminate the engine oil. This is why you have to change the oil soon after the procedure. The insulting moment on the petrol engine was starting the engine after the procedure. Some more deposits and debris were softened after I put the spark plugs and tried to start the engine. Which ended up on staining the electrodes and the car couldn't start. I had to remove the plugs and torch the electrodes to burn the soot a little. Then I was able to start the engine after several attempts. Finally I changed the oil and put new spark plugs. But this shouldn't be an issue on a diesel since it ignites the fuel through compression and glow plugs are mainly used for preheating the combustion chambers.

@gidi19 Suck the remaining liquid before and put an old towel over the plug holes before turning the engine. Then you crank the engine several times, put plugs back and try to start the engine. It won’t be easy to turn it on initially. For me it took 5-10 minutes. You try for 5 seconds and then let the starter cooldown for 10-20 seconds. Once started, there will be smoke. Drive it easily until it cleans out 1-2 kms and then change the oil.

How often, I don’t know. I guess it depends on the driving conditions. On the petrol engine it takes 20-30 minutes to remove the plugs, add injector cleaner, rotate the engine and finally crank it without fuel pump fuze. You have to repeat it once or twice every 12 hours. At the end you need to remove the remaining injector cleaner with oil pump or turkey baster. It’s not a lot of work but it takes time. A weekend is enough.

Here is the Hyundai/KIA TSB for excessive oil consumption, skip to page 4 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10205426-0001.pdf I've also used the instructions in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTEwZgXhzRs As most of the folks having this issue recommend, I used the Berryman's B12 Chemtool and not the official Hyundai/KIA injector cleaner.

Nope, hers is used for daily work commute of 5-10 km. Stuck rings are a side effect of the direct injection due to increased carbon deposits. Often happening when the car is mainly used for short distances, gently driven and with long-life service intervals. First two perfectly apply for my wife’s car, and even though I was changing the oil every 10k km, the oil consumption increased over time until it started to use more oil between oil changes than the amount used for the actual service.. 😅 There is official procedure which KIA/Hyundai have for such cases. I can share it, if someone is interested.

If I had such oil consumption from burning and not leak or turbo, I would try piston soak. Won't harm and it's cheap. If the piston rings are stuck, that would unstuck them. Of course, if the oil rings are worn out, nothing could help, unfortunately. My wife is driving the famous KIA/Hyundai oil burner 1.6 GDI engine, and at 160k km, it was burning 1L per 2000 km(~1200 miles). After the piston soak, it now burns 1L per 10k km(6-7000 miles). Yes, it still burns oil, but it's a great improvement. What I would be very careful on a diesel is, how to unscrew the glow plugs since very often they've never been changed..

I had similar symptoms on Octavia 3 few years ago and turned out to be worn inner CV joint. I didn’t go with an OEM part because the joint isn’t sold separately but with the whole axle.

Hi Darko, greetings from Bulgaria! The forum is very helpful and I am sure you will find a lot of useful stuff here ;) I’ve also changed my Octavia 3 for Superb 3 and I am pleased with it so far. Happy reading!

+1 for ATE Ceramic brake pads - I use them from 5 years on Audi A4, Octavia 3 and am about to use it on current Superb 3 when needed. I think ATE recommended ceramic pads with solid non-vented discs. I've always used them with solid discs/rotos. I'm not sure from where I got that impression because their site doesn't make this very clear https://www.ate-brakes.com/products/disc-brakes/ate-ceramic-brake-pads/

Ahh same here, I would require filter cleaning as well on 30k km. I cleaned it on my ex-car Octavia 3 and also changed the o-rings and bolts(the maintenance) for the pump. But I think you can change them every other time.

Thanks mate!

Sorry to step in like that, but I’m wondering few things which I believe will be helpful for others as well. If you or someone else know the answers, share them here. 1/ If the common failure point is a sensor, that means the more often oil servicing won’t prevent it. Of course, that’s not true for mechanical parts. 2/ Do you or someone else know, is the K2 sensor updated in after certain year or the gearbox is identical in 2017 and 2024 Superb? 3/ I guess that since you’re there, it’s good to change the K1 sensor as well? 4/ What would be the best source to buy the sensors? I see there are some available on eBay, e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404588236912?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Uf4kdw5MRfK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=co51Dma8SCe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY 5/ Looks pretty straight-forward if you are good at soldering. Could it be done if you have VCDS to le-learn/reset the gearbox after sensors change?

If the AdBlue system wasn’t working the issue would be fixed. Non-working AB system would mean increased emissions than claimed, leading to another diesel scandal 💨 And this for cars produced after 2015 🙂

Thanks @varaderoguy!

Does anybody know is the issue resolved in the EA288 Evo engines? I had this noise on my Octavia 2016 TDI184 (CUNA engine) but I haven't heard it so far on my Superb 2023 TDI200 (DTUA engine code). The Superb is relatively new so I'm wondering is this about to happen or Evo engines have different vacuum pump where this is issue is resolved?

@freddyuk Please share the German discount parts supplier. It may help to someone else.

Hi Richie, the standard shocks on S3 suck from the factory - I had found almost no difference between my S3 Scout when it was new and my Octavia 3 Scout on 160k kms. Only the DCC in Sport mode is not shaking that much. Some members here say that Bilstein B6 improve this behavior and also make the ride a bit stiffer. I would go the same way when my warranty expires.

Ahh of course no It says to be added directly in the Adblue tank, but I add it in the Adblue bottle before filling the tank. Here is what I'm using https://xenum.com/downloads/tds-msds-nr/en/xenum_ADMAX_TDS_EN.pdf