fr1nklyn

I feel your pain Dooge! My commute is 3-4 km in one direction in week days with a diesel and longer journeys in weekends. Front grill covers were usually used for diesel cars in colder countries in the past, or hand made ones made from cardboard 😂 Something similar to this one should do the job better than under bonnet insulation https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/octavia-iii/octavia-iii-winter-grille-cover-in-great-oem-design-ki-r-glossy-black

+1 for the Hankook Ventus Prime 3 - I was very pleased with them. Now driving Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance 2 and I regret.. I plan to buy Hankook Kinergy 4S2 for my wife’s car which is driven mainly in the city where we rarely have snowy roads.

If the noise isn't regular, it's not a wheel bearing.

Hi @krisman1993, it’s hard to hear the sound on this video. Maybe if you can record the transition from not having the noise to when it starts to be heard, that would help. Did the noise started after tires swap or any repair? Or maybe after some light offroad trip? Has the noise increased over time? A common fault on the MQB platform are the wheel bearings, but could be anything else, from engine undercover if it’s been hit and loose, to tires, even the DSG transmission which is unlikely on this mileage and so on. If it’s a worn wheel bearing the noise from it usually stops or gets louder on left or right turn, depending on which side the issue is.

Thanks @Carlston! O2 Scout springs are really cheaper than O3 Scout ones, and there is more choice. In autodoc, almost all O3 results for 5Q0511115AN show springs with diameter 118mm, where O2 results for 1K0511115CT show springs with 120mm diameter. Do you think this may be an issue? Can you help me with the choice for the front springs as well?

I've done some research on the higher and stiffer shock absorbers and coil springs which Skoda offers on Scout models and found their aftermarket analogues: * Front Shocks: Bilstein B4 #22-274182 * Front Springs: ??? * Rear Shocks: Bilstein B4 #19-274195 * Rear Springs: SACHS 992 103 (analogue of OEM #5Q0511115AM) My queries are: 1/ What are the higher and stiffer front springs OEM numbers? 2/ Are there good aftermarket alternatives for the same? 3/ Is there better rear spring alternative of SACHS 992 103? 4/ It seems that these Bilstein B4s are the same for regular and Scout versions, so I'm keen to know how they are behaving compared to the stock ones? (Scout's +30mm height comes from 15mm higher springs and 15mm higher tires) 5/ Many VW Golf Alltrack owners in US are lowering their cars with Golf R suspension(not what I want) and are swapping the upper OEM rear spring pads with the ones from Audi TT because they seem to be thicker. Have someone tried them on their car? My car reached 100k miles with the factory suspension and is softer, bouncing and sagging. I'm looking to replace it in the near future. Thanks a lot in advance! 🙏

That was my theory as well. But then why the aligner didn’t tightened them?! Really can’t tell.. I have to do alignment once again as advised by the garage which fitted the diff and its module, but the car tracks straight now and have no issues so far, so I want to enjoy the moment 😂

Last update from my side, hopefully I got my car back, no more noises from the diff or suspension, and no ESP lights on the dash anymore. Recap: * The tapered roller bearing in the diff was worn out. The rest of the bearings had no signs of wear. * I believe that each bearing in the diff has its part number, so if somebody else is in this situation, remove it first and check your P/N. Mine was LM503349. * The AWD module( 0CQ 907 554 H ) had issues with its sealing which caused water to enter inside partially damage it. Thankfully was repaired by electronics workshop and sealed back with new durable silicon. * While the shop was soldering my module, I called the local Skoda dealer for the price of a new one and they said it's superseded by new version with OEM number 0CQ 907 554 J. (I won't share the price they gave me, because it's not correct, you can google the part number and see the prices around you) * During the initial alignment, 6 of the alignment bolts in rear were left loose.. which means all of them(not sure how this could happen). This caused metal suspension noises. * All the bolts are tight now, diff and its control module are on the car and everything seems to be fine now - no noises or errors from the AWD module in VCDS.

@captain uncertainSounds great. I also had to change the rear coupling(original one on 100k miles was knackered).

Ok, I called the skoda dealer today, 0CQ 907 554 H is superseded by 0CQ 907 554 J and is ~€550. Mine is already sent for repair but if the guys who are about to do it said it’s not possible, I will buy one. That price isn’t that bad for a brand new module. Hopefully I will understand soon what’s the case with the suspension noise

Thanks @toot, yes I have even done an extra mile with maintenance of the car - much more often than needed( as cheaper preventive action 😞 * Changed the diff oil on 100k km(60k miles) * Haldex oil on every 50k km(30k or 2-3 years) together with the DSG oil(wet clutch DQ250) * I even clean the pump, its filter and housing when doing the haldex oil + changed the 2x oil rings and 2x bolts of the pump which are sold as a service kit But the AWD control module itself is not serviceable - it’s a simple metal box with a chip inside, which if not sealed properly from the factory, does such issues.. 😕 There is a place in my city Sofia where some guys repair ABS modules. They said to send my AWD module to them to check can it be repaired or not. 0CQ 907 554 H is my module P/N. And I found that it’s superseded by newer version 0CQ 907 554 J. If someone has access to such data and can confirm this, would be really great 🙏

Yes, I was sleeping I guess.. The AWD module, not ABS.. the one with p/n 0CQ 907 554 H I was wondering why no similar issues appeared in google when I searched for it

Yes, it should be fine

Hello Jassi, Any full synthetic oil meeting VW standards 504.00 or 507.00 will be fine for your engine. These are usually 0w30 or 5w30 oils. 0w30 meeting those standards are a bit more expensive but for the cold climate should be slightly preferred over the 5w30. Change it every 12-15k km or once a year if possible

An update from my side: - A friend of mine left the car to the local garage and they read the errors first( I forgot to mention that car also had shown ESP error on the dash last time I drove it) - The error appeared to be triggered by communication issue with the ABS module which seem to be caused by water inside the module.. Neither diff repair shop or local garage had water cleaned the diff, but honestly speaking this car has seen a lot of snow, water and mud.. I bought Scout for this after all I’m going with it for skiing and mountains for camping. - The noise from the suspension will be tracked in the next couple of days, but as you guys suspected initially, it seems that something is loose, or got loose during the alignment. - I’m attaching pics from the wet ABS module chip.. I will call different places which repair such modules and provide some warranty.

I think something was already loose when I left the local garage but found it out on the next day while driving to the alignment garage. And the got more loose/broken after the alignment or after I drove the car longer and harder. I didn’t want to drive the car a lot before an alignment is done. I couldn’t watch them because I had to be inside the car and turn steering wheel until tires reach some green arrows and values on a screen in front of the car.

I really would like this to be the cause..

I'm not that brave and skilled, otherwise I would do it myself. Also AFAIK, changing the diff bearings requires some adjustment to specific gaps' requirements. I think the local garage which removed and placed back the diff made a mistake somewhere, and I'll send the car back to them. Unfortunately that will happen after 2 weeks, because I have to travel today. I don't trust the car and will travel with my wife's Hyundai..

I think yes, but it's intermittent and initially I was focused to notice any noises like the one from the diff bearing which was changed. I think they had dropped the whole rear cradle because the suspension alignment required a lot of adjustment. And I'm sure the rear had almost perfect alignment because I checked it with the front less than an year ago when front bushings were changed. I'm not sure I can check that inner joints are tight? 😅 My DIY skills are on a level to change the oil, pads and rotors I'm pretty sure there is fresh oil in both otherwise none should be inside and horrible noises will be noticed? The shipping company required oils to be removed from the diff before sending it to the Diff Rebuild Workshop. Then the same was send back to the local garage with no oils once a tapered roller bearing was changed - AFAIK same as in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRV3e54nKZg because I had send it to them before the rebuild and once the rebuild was done, they confirmed the same bearing was worn out on my car. The differential noise which sounded similar to bad wheel bearing but louder has gone after the rebuild. So I suspect that something hasn't been fitted properly because I hear metal noises from time to time over bumps. Like something is loose.. Also when I cornering on uneven roads, the car is moved to the left and right similar to the experience when shocks absorbers are shots. I think this experience got worse after the alignment, which is strange.. I was inside the case during the alignment and was looking at the screen showing the measurements before and after the suspension alignment, and I'm pretty sure I left the shop with all four wheels/sides in green.

Btw it says that DSR is part of the ESP feature, so maybe if I disable the ESP it will also disable the DSR? I thought that my shocks/springs may need replacement as I’m still driving with the factory ones on 95k miles. But I would notice this before the repair.. I will get out to drive it again. 😔

It says “rear rubber shaft coupling” on the bill and it’s €265.. I didn’t know about this option, thanks. I will check it out.

I did MOT(was expired till the car was in the garage) and also alignment on a Hutson machine. Both sides on the rear were unaligned as expected. Something isn't right unfortunately.. 😞 Intermittently car feels unstable and shakes too much inside while cornering on uneven roads. I've been moved to the left and right couple of times like I'm in a boat.. It happened 2-3 times while driving. The suspension hasn't been stiffer before I left it for repair, but I feel it much more unstable now.. Or I have driven my wife's Hyundai i30 too much in the last couple of weeks 🙃 I'm now unsure should I take a trip with the car or not.. 😞 It can't be checked during the weekend.

Yes, I think it's called drive shaft coupling. And in the diff only that roller bearing I wrote about earlier.

Hey guys an update from my side, I picked my car after the diff bearing was changed, new diff and haldex oils, new drive shaft coupling as well and the noise is gone! 🥳 That coupling made the bill a bit more than I expected but I know from the forum that it’s a common think to fail on these cars. I need to do an alignment and then I will do some more miles and step it hard, but so far there is no noise till 90kmph. Before the rebuild, the noise was appearing after 30-40kmph. I want to do alignment before driving it with 130-150. The only think I’m a bit concerned is a low noise intermittently when I go over bumps, but could be in my head.. I don’t trust the car yet and drove from the local garage with windows closed and no music in order to listen for anything wrong.. 🤣

@J.R. @Username_Login Sorry guys - you're absolutely right - I mixed them: Haldex 0,9L and Diff 1,1L. Where Haldex requires topping up after priming the pump