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I tow either my garden trailer and my Caravan with a DSG Octy 3 very regularly, you don't need to do anything different

There are others who will be able to give a more accurate answer, but I believe yours being a 16 plate will be a 220. IIRC the 230 came out with the facelift, then the 245 came out in the last couple of years of production.

Apologies, I meant bolts, old habit from MG/Rover days, And to clarify I meant Bolts for alloy wheels, not Alloy Bolts which as you describe have a different seat

You will need Alloy wheel nuts for an alloy wheel, Skoda should sell them and are definitely worth the expense. If you use the steel wheel nuts, it will more than likely corrode your alloys. Also worth putting a slather of copper slip on the mating face between the wheel and the hub to stop the same issue. The corrosion is caused by air and water creating a chemical reaction in the alloy, the clear coat on the alloy should protect it, but steel wheel nuts can scratch or damage this mating face which is where the corrosion can happen. Also ensure that you don't over torque the nuts, stick to the torque settings and don't use a windy/battery gun

Are you sure you don't have ACC, AKAIK you only get the secondary cruise control stalk, with speed limiter if its ACC, normal CC has buttons on the wiper stalk! Do you also have lane assist and does that work? If so, the camera for ACC may need calibrating.

If the turbo is noisy and hot, it may as simple as a split or popped turbo hose, may be worth getting a local garage to check the car first. A simple inexpensive fix may resolve the issue. I had similar with a runabout Freelander, I changed a turbo hose (Split) and glow plugs (Burnt out), limp mode and engine warning light went out, and I ran it for another 2 years till I sold it on. Cost me under £50. Some people get rid of older cars because they cant be bothered to check for simple solutions, and some garages will only do a diagnostic, which wont always pick up basic mechanical issues.

I tend to agree, £10k for a 6YO 9oK miles car sounds a tadge expensive, for that price I would want 40-50K miles at that age. Might be worth putting the car registration into we buy any car or auto traders free car valuation to see what the expected market value is. I do know that MK3 Octavia's are holding their price very well at the moment.

Im sure someone will have an answer, although i found the mats from the dealership quite reasonably priced. Also worth trying in the Superb section

I love my FL Mk3 vRS estate, it does everything I want of a car. Its big, quick, comfy relatively economical and surprisingly gets some very admiring glances. I have had big Mercs, land rovers and many other marques as well, and although the general fit and finish is not quite as good in the Skoda, it isn't a million miles away. Its cheap to run and service (The main reason I went away from Mercedes (Over £500 for a minor service on a C250 C Class)) and I have to say my local dealership in Grimsby is excellent. It tows my caravan with ease and with bikes on the roof, it will also go like the absolute clappers as well as transport me comfortably and quietly when I have to travel to the office over 250 miles away. When I have to go and meet clients I never feel low rent getting out of it. It does have the odd rattle, my window switch pack in particular, i have had to put felt tape over the window lock button as at rattled like a skeleton having a w*** in a biscuit tin, but other than that mine has been excellent. Is it a 'Dream Car' probably not, but it is as much car as I would ever need (Until I can afford a toy).

My information is a few years old, from the days when I used to tinker and you didn't need laptops. These days I can just afford to buy a quick car

I would be very wary of heat insulating anything around the turbo or exhaust gas, Yes it will stop excess heat getting into the engine bay, but it wont allow heat to dissipate from those components, which will raise internal temperatures beyond engineering tolerance and cause premature component failure. Air intake side the most common way to keep the air cool is a front mounted intercooler. I know a few folks who have played with water injection, but it seems risky to me. Just my two pence

Cheaper to drive over here on holiday, and get it done!

Seek advice from Trading Standards in writing. CC. in Skoda UK and the Dealer Principle of the dealership. If you contact them in writing they are legally obliged to respond!

Funnily enough, I had the exact same rattle on my 2017 Superb L&K, i bet it was the switchpack then also.

Sounds like a wheel bearing to me Sorry just fully read the post... probably not

OK so I have bee trying to locate this buzzing noise for AGES! Generally only happens if I am listening to some music with a bassline, and not even at high volumes. Today 'Private Investigations' by Dire straights came on Radio 2 after pop master, there is an extended bassline, which allowed me to pin it down to the window switch pack (I had been previously investigating the door card and internals), specifically the window lock button. If i laid my finger on the lock button, the buzzing noise ceased (= a happy me). Who else has had this issue, and has anyone resolved it? Would it just be case of needing a new switchpack, or do they all rattle like an old pill tin. Or has anyone managed to fix their switchpack so that it doesn't rattle?

Yeah the Auto box on the standard 2l was woeful, and the Vitesse had a different steering rack, but I totally agree on the build quality, perfect examples of "That'll do" engineering. Still I enjoyed mine

I didnt know that, my old Superb hatch had one, and my estate vRS does, i assumed wrong. As Samuel L Jackson says in 'A Long Kiss Goodnight' "If you make an assumption, you make an ass out of you and umption!"

The Vitesse was probably the best of the bunch, especially in Lux spec. The standard models, although well equipped were pretty crap to drive. Set up for comfort rather than sportiness, they had a tendency to wallow. The Vitesse had different shocks, bushes and springs, which made it handle very respectably. There were more than a few surprised faces in 'hot hatches' when I used to breeze past in climate controlled luggzzurry. Interestingly the 800 was the only production car at the time with double wishbone front suspension like an F1 car, which is why with soft springs and shocks it was so comfy.

That is a definite indication that water is entering the oil system somehow. Normally given as evidence of head gasket failure. Check you coolant for emulsion as well, coolant should be absolutely clear (But pink/orange). Take to another dealer if you can.

Ahh the Japanese spec export cars, that were never sent. Worth a bob or two now.

The boot light pulls out to become a torch

A good size estate car, with a trailer or roof box for when you go away as a family! I used to have one in my Army days living in Germany, Mondeo Estate with roof box and 3 children under seven (Also a lot more economical and cheaper to insure. Other than that the Honda CRV is pretty good.

Simply Clever, have you found the ice scraper in the filler cap, or the bootlight/torch!

And Another of my older almost a classic cars, My Mk1 'Sterling' TWR special, with the 2.7 V6 and TWR suspension and bodykit (Only 150 ever made). Got reversed into and written off by a total barsteward.