ApertureS

Erm… it has a massive effect on the car when the oil starts tracking up the wiring loom requiring a complete new engine bay harness. I wouldn’t be leaving it and get it sorted asap

T25 and T45 Most have the half tray only so no rear screws to deal with.

It always angers me to see the difference between a service and an extended scope service! For the nearly £100 price difference you get the following…. Wheels removed and brakes checked - I mean this is one of the first things that should be done on any vehicle a mechanic will be driving even if it’s not in for a service… it takes all of 2 minutes (without having to remove the wheels) Check/adjust drive belts - I’d love to find a Skoda tech and ask to see their drive belt tension checking tool - and adjustable tensioners haven’t been on vag cars for the last 25 years almost. Check/replenish manual gear oil - seen as most cars are dsg this is fairly moot and even then will very likely be a cursory glance at the gearbox for any leaks and a box tick. Seen as gearbox oil doesn’t just disappear either, offering to replenish it is all well and good when you’ve got a leak that needs fixing. check of final drive oil - will most likely be exactly the same as above and not include the haldex coupling which is arguably more prone to failure check suspension system - again, a glance at the underside which should be part of even the most basic service and if you’re lucky (and hopeful) a little pull, push and wobble to check for worn out suspension parts. check heating/air con - I very much doubt this is a full air con check involving pressure/weight testing or such (as they charge extra for this is a separate ‘aircon service’) and checking the operation of the heating again is a very basic check that should be part of every service lubricate door mechanisms - a lovely spray of white grease that within a few weeks will be blasted completely in dirt, but it is a visual to the customer that ‘we have done stuff to your car’ when in reality it doesn’t do much bar make a mess (except the bonnet latch which is fair to grease) that’s my rant over…. In a nutshell the ‘extended scope’ is the bare minimum that should be done on any service and charging £100 on top for it is an absolute con. in my opinion - a service should include all checks no matter what level and an oil and filter change. After this the additional service parts required either through time/mileage/request/dirty should be charged accordingly. That way you know a full check has been done and you know exactly what parts have been changed on your car.

Being a 2023 plate it cant be set up to close from the button sadly and your only option is the 2 tailgate buttons or the key fob when close to the tailgate. Your best option is to disable the button by removing the wire from below the button and securing it with heat shrink to prevent it touching anything. This would completely disable the button but also make it usable in the future by repinning it. If you wanted to do it yourself and had the relevant tools or wanted to instruct a local garage to do it, the wire that needs depinning from the 10 pin plug under the button assembly is the brown with green trace wire - it would just need to be removed and taped/heat shrinked to prevent any contact. If you wanted to visit me in north london id do it free of charge for you as it would only take 10 minutes max. Your final option that could be done is a separate button could be added to the center console area that would emulate the tailgate external handle button allowing you to open and close the tailgate from inside the vehicle from a button location of your choosing. The only downside to this is the safety aspect of making sure that the tailgate area is clear of any fingers or other things that may get trapped in it.

Not a good sign and as much as i dont like to condemn big expensive parts as a whole. I dont think ive seen any repair companies offer a repair specifically for the mechatronics plug - that being said, it may be possible! But i thought it was fitted with a potting compound that it 'meant' to be leak free. If no repair option is about, then a new mechatronic unit is required sadly.

What do you mean reckons?? Could he not fully diagnose it to be 100% sure of the failure? Out of interest why did it need a wheel bearing? Did they check it and diagnose it as faulty, if so - what was actually faulty about it?

Which lights do you currently have? there are: low line high line Full LED If you are moving upwards then you’ll need coding and new wiring mostly. low to high means that you’ll now have more bulbs on the tailgate so would need wiring and coding high to led means adding new wires to the bcm and custom coding.

Second this, brilliant tool! although they can be had for £2 on AliExpress

Todays work is underway! Gonna be in pieces for an estimate of 4-5 days with the amount of work going on!

Have you got anything to back that up? as i dont think thats the case at all.

There doesn’t need to be anything in the plug, there’s lots of lighting circuits that can be used! The camera doesn’t detect a Towbar connection; it’s just a reverse camera. Especially when you can have a car specced with a tow bar and no camera

Whether 7 or 13 pin plug, it could very easily know that something is detected by a basic continuity test across a lighting circuit

Battery is toast… (or engine is seized) and I’m going with you know it’s not the second option 😂 The plates will be cracked or sulfated in the battery meaning it’s true storage capacity and output capacity is massively reduced enough to pull the voltage down that low

Why are we focusing so much on checking wheel speed sensor resistances? Do as I suggested in my first post - you need to be checking at the abs module for power, a load tested ground and canbus voltages. Checking specific components (and not fully) on the abs system is not going to help you find a non connection to a module sorry.

I have the mib2.5 and it’s in the radio submenus No cut out or button on any pillar trim

Only on models with a lower spec radio, on higher spec radios it’s done through the infotainment system

Why are you replacing nox and adblue sensors and components for a DPF fault - they aren’t at all related? As the fault code states - the DPF filter is not doing its job effectively so there are 2 things it can be: -too much soot is going through the DPF and it can’t handle it -DPF is damaged or too full of ash and needs replacing At this point with the money you have spent on parts you would have been better off paying someone very clued up for a full and comprehensive diagnosis. Have live data been checked for ash and soot levels? DPF Back pressure? Turbo seals? Oil quality and type? Boost pressure? Any boost leaks? Air filter? Fuel quality? Injector spray pattern? Fuel pressure? Compression test? Substrate on DPF damaged? Exhaust restrictor valve working properly? Coked up inlet ports? These are just a few things that need to be checked as they can all cause a poor burn and produce excess soot that is blocking the DPF too quickly.

Very good thread and guide. the only thing id note is the main screw for the steering wheel. Don’t put fresh loctite on it! The correct method is to mark the face of it with a centre punch and refit with no fresh loctite. The screw is good for 5 reuses (a centre punch per reuse) and only after that does it need replacing. and have you got a link to the codable cheaper lin adapter?

They should all dim, you can pop it off and see if the small 2 pin white connector is in the mirror housing. But it sounds like someone has fitted a cheaper mirror glass instead of the £300 dimming ones.

Obdeleven can’t upload datasets so it’s not possible with that. only 2 software that allow dataset uploads is VCP and ODIS. (Never used obd11 so feel free to correct me if I’m wrong)

(Ignore the fact it says superb) it is for an octavia as the picture shows 😂

This is all I could find sorry. Couldn’t find anything for the vrs badge

Do you mean latch? Or do you mean button to release it? The latch is the actual locking part that connects the tailgate to the car body.

If it’s a new cluster there is no requesting anything. Just use odis to disable cp and immo service mode.

Where did you buy it? was it brand new? have you checked for any updated part numbers? has the fault been diagnosed as a boot latch - if so how? How sure it’s not a coincidence?