ApertureS

The ‘crunch’ noise you heard would be the ABS pump applying full pressure to the brakes very quickly as the manoeuvre braking thought you were about to collide with something

So ive looked at the above manual in a bit more detail and seeing the approved method from Webasto, ive decided to go for a hybrid of OE and Webasto in terms of piping. So ive ordered 2 meters of 19mm coolant piping, a handful of straight/90 degree fittings, some heat protect and some P clamps and then once it all turns up, we will see how it goes! The 3 points i plan on mounting the pipes are: On the bulkhead where the O2 cable connectors are, Behind the steering column on a short M6 thread and finally on the right chassis leg where a rivnut will be added. Ive got a week off work at the end of the month to put a big dent in all these retrofits again! Maybe even finish some of them. Also call me crazy.... but I have priced up and checked out the viability in the future of retrofitting a panoramic roof (Seen as i need the roof painted anyway, why not replace it!) Youd be suprised to know the OE fitting procedure for a roof panel is about 1 litre of 2-part structural adhesive, 400ml of 1-part adhesive, a smear of seam sealer and about 20 resistance spot welds. No full welding required anywhere! (Wouldnt be doing this anytime soon, gotta get all the above fitting and running first!)

If it’s anything like the U.K. MOT any hybrid is not subject to an emissions test. On many hybrids you can press the pedal to the floor to turn the engine on. But this isn’t suitable for an emissions test.

The Vega wheels come in 19 inch grey on the superb and 18 inch black on the octavia, make sure not to confuse the 2 and buy the wrong one

Id need a pattern to work to that doesnt exist sadly. I could mock something up in copper and get it remade in stainless/tig welded by someone possibly. Rubber will be the cheaper and easier method by far! Webasto sell the heater only, the rest is made by skoda suppliers/manufacturers. Looking at this manual for aftermarket webasto - it only lists left hand drive https://az666937.vo.msecnd.net/32/e2611f3b-4188-400d-86e5-7e4a9e72efac.pdf

This seems like a lot of going round in circles at this point…. why are we not physically checking voltage at the bolero and gateway, checking live data for voltage inside bolero and gateway, checking live data SoH and SoC for the battery at the gateway. The radio will be getting this warning from either seeing low voltage itself or from the gateway SoH, SoC or voltage reading. We need the live data to be able to tell…

Car in question - Seat Ibiza 1.4 TSI DSG 2010 - 85,000 miles So I had the pleasure of my girlfriends car making a nice clunk noise under acceleration. On further inspection the noise was from the gearbox even at idle albeit quieter. After jacking the car up and driving it through its gears, one of the clutch forks (visible outside the gearbox) could be seen moving side to side when in or out of gear. When force was applied to this the noise disappeared. This confirmed the fault with the clutch and possible further issues on gearbox input shaft failure. The next step was to order all associated parts - clutch, all bolts, all tools and read up on the repair procedure. Once all the parts were here we got to working, gearbox whipped out and oil drained (no signs of any metal fragments which is a good start) and no play on the input shafts from what i could feel. The old clutch pack was removed and inspected (LuK not genuine) so it is not the original and had a fair bit of meat left on the clutch packs so to me it wasnt the oldest thing. Next the clutch release bearings were inspected and although the smaller one was fine, the larger one had fallen apart and all the ball bearings were missing meaning this was running metal to metal and was full of rust! Point of failure detected. I then had to find the cause of failure - First thing to note were no shims were installed at all for clutch freeplay adjustment and also no pilot bearing was installed in the flywheel. The release bearings also didnt match the condition of the clutch assembly. Fault and cause have now been identified - clutch fitted by someone not knowing what they were doing and cutting corners. Solution - new clutch pack and set it up correctly! Whilst here we noticed a few more issues - a small coolant leak behind the supercharger and a split CV boot (a fair bit of grease had left and dirt had entered). These parts have been ordered, but thinking ahead, rather than struggle to get the supercharger out from behind the engine and as the coolant would be getting drained anyway, also it was a pain to get the box off the engine, let alone getting it back in! I took the decision to pull the engine completely which took around 15 minutes. (Anyone wondering why the AC rad and compressor are sitting like that - I didnt want to drain the AC system for the front end or engine removal so they were tucked to the side) The clutch has now been fitted and shimmed correctly - this is done with some fairly precise measuring (down to 0.01mm) and used a depth gauges, straight edge, vernier caliper, micrometer and torque wrench. As well as the maths and equations involved. Engine and gearbox now mated back together and refitted with new coolant pipe behind the supercharger. Just got to wait for the last few gaskets/bolts/CV boot kit to turn up now to get the rest of the car fitted back up. For anyone interested in price - A few garages quoted between £1200-1500 for the complete job. I have done the job (including buying the specific clutch removal/fitting/shimming tools) and replacing all TTY bolts and gaskets for £600. If anyone is interested in buying/renting the 0AM clutch fitting/removal/shimming tool for pre 2011 clutches, feel free to get in touch.

The reason this coolant system is sealed is like you said - it cools the HV battery and HV components - if this level drops then there is a good chance of there being a leak - this means external and risks frying HV components or internal and risk starting a lithium fire or HV charging the vehicle chassis (Although extremely unlikely considering the safety involved in a HV battery). Its sealed for this very reason and if the level drops and your average joe just keeps topping it up, then problems are to be expected. That and from a warranty point of view there is a clear indicator the cap hasnt been opened so no incorrect fluids have been added. If I had my way this should be done with the brake fluid cap as well. All to often when i worked in retail years ago people would come in just needing a 'brake fluid topup' and whereas my alarm bells are ringing about possible leaks and low pads, the customer and other colleagues just see it as low means top it up and forget about it.... (And you can be damn sure they 'knew exactly what they were doing' and wouldnt take any advice from me.)

Nope, wont make a difference

After this try a recalibration when the window is all the way up - hold the up button for 5 seconds do the window down all the way in one motion whilst holding down hold down for 5 more seconds once all the way down

Please describe what you mean by flush the system and flush air?

Have you got wind deflectors fitted? This happens because the anti trap mechanism feels an increased resistance so either something is stuck in the runners, the motor is on its way out or it’s out of alignment. first I’d check for wind deflectors and check all round the tracks for anything stuck in the runners and rubber seals.

Post your part numbers and coding for 08 HVAC

Spot on

To get it to display on the dash you need to enable heated steering wheel AND multi-stage heating

So today involved starting to fit the bits in the engine bay - this is where the real hard work is! We made a start on the following: -Webasto heater and parts -Wiring loom -Wheel arch wiring -DCC sensors -Front camera wiring So to start, the front bumper and wheel arches came out to give more access as well as one of the headlights. The webasto was test fitted in place and the wiring loom mocked up as photographed below Once mocked up, the main bay loom was detached and given some slack and all the tape was removed - the new wires were attached and ran inside the loom and it was all rewrapped. As the loom worked its way back towards the bulkhead we needed to sort out the next part, the OSF wheel arch wiring (getting this out was an awful job as the brake servo is extremely tight to the wiring!) A bit of wiggling and persaution and it came out and could be replaced and rewired. Whilst here the OSF level sensor was fitted with a M6 bolt and M6 nut. The part numbers are OSF 3Q0412522A and NSF 3Q0412521A Next up the HSD waterproof cable was ran from the centre lower grill, up and into the main loom and off to the fuse box area, meaning the bumper hopefully wont need to come off again as the cable is all tucked next to the battery for now. The webasto was then fully bolted up and the wiring and fuel line connection attached. Webasto fitting is almost complete now! All that is left is the long coolant pipes, the rigid metal pipes and 2 replacement pipes that intercept the heater matrix pipes. This is where we have serious issues now! So being the first to do something means you run into a lot of issues..... the issue being all countries that have webasto fitted or as an option (cold climates) are LHD! This meant a RHD rigid metal pipe was never created and simply does not exist. Here is a photo of the pipe in question: The pipe runs along the right hand chassis leg, across the bulkhead and to roughly the centre of the bulkhead - the difference between LHD and RHD, the steering column and rack side! The damn bulkhead bulge is in the way and this means 100% there is no way of fitting this rigid pipe. Ive checked every single MQB car for a RHD option and none exist. This leaves me with a few options now, the first is give up, which I wont be doing, the rest are as follows, but with the crux of - I wont be able to size/measure/fit anything until the subframe is dropped and the rack moved out the way. Modify the pipe to fit - means shortening the bracket that runs behind the column by around 1-2 inches, but this makes the pipe 1-2 inches short, this gap could be filled with a silicone hose or a welded pipe and that is still assuming the rest of it will fit the contours. Cut both ends off - this will leave me with both ends intact, each with a mounting point and the 2 hose attachments, it then means the centre piece will need to be custom made to go in front or behind the column using silicone piping. Dont use the pipe at all - Cut the quick connects off both ends of the car piping and use nylon joiners to create a fully silicone/rubber coolant pipe that would need heat shielding from the exhaust. None of these options are ideal as they dont meet the goal of fully OE but im thinking a mix of idea 1 and 2. The issue is once the subframe is down and if the pipe cant be created quickly or if i need to order more parts it means im without a car for a while... So for now, we will put a pin in this and as a worst case, mock something up when the subframe is down, and then come back to it at a later date 😞 For the amount of work so far, This being the only set back isnt the worst thing. Tomorrows job - finish the bay wiring and tuck it next to the ABS module until the dash is out, fit the remaining arch loom and DCC accelerometer sensors, terminate the engine bay fuses but dont fit the actual fuses yet.

It is either a micro quadlock female or MCP 1.5mm or MCP 2.8mm i cant remember exactly which of the top of my head!

No, the newer 2Q0 cameras are swap protected and it has still yet to be hacked. I have seen people claim to do it but they wanted £800!

No, there is no need. Software updates are there to fix issues - if there is an issue related to your car a TPI will be there for it and the update will be done by a SVM code. It is only done if the user has the specific symptoms/issues/complaints as not all cars will have the issue or require the update.

It is a knack to it, not necessarily a fault. Dont grab the handle to unlock the car as you are touching the lock and unlock sensors together. Instead just put your hand on the inside face of the door handle and pull the door handle to open, dont touch the outside face of the handle. To lock, shut the door and just touch the dimple on the outside of the door handle.

Newest version number does not always mean it is meant for your car! You should not take that number as gospel. Some updates have been put in place to fix/remove features in certain sale zones and as such you may loose features by updating to an unknown number. Your phone and macbook get updates that are applicable to your phone specifically, when your car is due a software update it will have a TPI, a letter in the post or a dashboard warning to let you know. Also of note - gateways come from different manufacturers, you cannot use the firmware interchangably although part numbers are exactly the same. You will brick the module if you did this.

Thought id get round to the job of terminating all the data connectors today under the OSF seat. This meant terminating 4x HSD connectors and 4x Fakra connectors as well as fitting the TV tuner and the 360 camera control module. For the 360 module i decided to extend the cut out that is under the TV tuner bracket and this allowed perfect fitment on top of the rear footwell duct. The TV tuner bracket was fitted back on top of it and the tuner fitted. The 3x fakra connectors were terminated and the wiring and MOST cabling ran. This all got ran under the seat, along the floor and up into the A pillar ready to continue on up and over the dash. (I am one double fakra connector short for the tv tuner as photoed, it has been ordered.) Whilst in the area the wiring for the ventilated seats was also started, this is simply a ground, power and a LIN signal back to the BCM. 3 wires started and ran into the a pillar area as well. Last job of the day just so i could sit down and rest my knees - pop out the old parking button assembly and fit the new one in the 360 camera logo. No functionality different, but the emblem is different (Sticking to every detail)

The wires themselves depends on what wire im after. For the standard dual colour wires in 0.35mm to 6.0mm the best supplier ive found is ALMsolutions. They offer most colours in most sizes with 1.0mm being the most common it has the most options. The 0.5mm has a huge amount of options too and seen as im yet to find a supplier offering the 0.35mm wire in dual colour for less than 100M per order, ive had to use 0.5mm in place of the 0.35mm in most places. The most common size for the general wiring is 0.35mm or 0.5mm For the fakra, BEVOTOP seems to be a good aliexpress supplier as ive had no issues with their connectors and wires for RG174 and RG58 depending on what I went for and its purpose. They are also a good fit for the vw/skoda components. Im a mechanic/electrician by trade so my roots are well set in the wiring side of things!

Take a peek 😛

Just a smidge of wiring for me this weekend.... Also unrelated but diagnosed my partners DQ200 clutch fault, thats gonna be a fun weekend job for me to look forward to!