ApertureS

06.01.21 build date so it will be the 5C cluster, the one you have ordered is correct.

The car won’t know what to do with the added wiring until it’s coded correctly so that’s correct that nothing will change until the coding is fully complete.

This is where a load test comes In handy. a simple resistance check would have shown 0 ohms resistance as its only pushing a very small current through the system and would be signed off as okay. The trick is to connect a (fused) H7 55W bulb to the circuit and power it from the battery and via this ground wire. That way a much higher amperage is being pulled which would strain the circuit and a measured voltage drop would tell you the resistance is way too high when the circuit is loaded up. a single strand of wire still connected would pass the first test but fail the second

Its drying as we speak, hopefully satin black is okay to match the rest of the grill.

Youre right about a camera, but not a dashcam

Bonus points for anyone that can work out what im up to here....

The year its registered doesnt help with the build date necessarily, youll need to provide a VIN so i can find the build date and tell you if its compatible.

I have no idea what you mean by this, what is the build date of your car? or if you dont have it, what is the VIN? You need to know if you have 5A or 5C immobiliser which will vary the instrument cluster required.

Saying power and plug are okay doesn’t help much, what actual checks were done for the power supply and what was the outcome of this test. as In, what pins were checked using what tool and what was the output reading in what state was the car. was the ground load tested and on what pins? Regarding the canbus - you’re looking into that too much without doing the basics and the above checks first. If there was a short to ground or to the other can wire you’d have no comms with a lot of other modules or it would be running in 1 wire mode. For the canbus all you need to check is that at the ABS module you have a voltage on both wires and when added up they come to 4.8-5.1V or so.

If its anything like the superb, the mounts are not there but can be purchased. As well as the brackets, you need threaded rivnuts and the bolts to go with it. Then cut the headliner and the trim pieces need fitting around it.

First thing will always be check for: power at the module plug a good ground that is load tested not just resistance check then look for your voltages on the canbus wires If all of this tests okay, then you are looking at a failed ABS module.

Fair enough. there aren’t many switched lives left on cars nowadays, it’s all permanent with canbus controlled wake up. You could change the 12v socket to ignition only and use that in the boot if you wanted?

Why not get a dual dashcam that has front and rear capabilities then you just need to run the video feed to the rear camera - no additional powers and grounds.

Hi there, there is an entire thread dedicated to this here: It depends on what module you have in the car but if it’s correct I’m in north London and I offer it.

Have you checked the camera is plugged in? what type of camera? If it has power and ground? Low or high line? can you connect to 6C on diagnostic? youve coded for a lowline camera - it may be high or it may be a knock off or not connected.

There are different ones depending on spec and age. If you supply your vin number I can find the part number for you.

1 - only on hybrid vehicles 2 - suitable for your needs 3 - in tailgate 4 - not suitable as only a very small ground 5 - suitable for your needs

There are a few ground points In the boot, they are on either side and behind the trim so the only way to access them would be to remove the side panels. The actual spare wheel well does not have one as there are no wires there that would need grounding sorry.

The master cylinder is the same, the manual take off has a rubber hose on it to the master cylinder for the clutch pedal. Whereas the DSG has the same take off but it has been crimped shut with an ultrasonic machine. The heat is causing the thin plastic at the ultrasonic joint to open up and dump the brake fluid out.

Look at a marine rubber grease, won’t wash off and it’s safe for rubber

Don’t forget the heated steering wheel button located on the wheel is defunc and will not work. also if you get a wheel with the travel assist button, this also will not work

Depends on year - but for the most part, yes. They will use either 3Q0 or 2Q0 radars with very similar, if not identical datasets.

I’ve dropped you a private message

Watered down cv grease??? 2 things - cv grease is contained in that boot, it shouldn’t leak out if it at all. And it should not be full of water, this indicates a failed boot and if water is in there, the grease can’t do its job. The driveshaft is a solid bar with a connection to each cv joint and then to hub/gearbox. The one place it can’t pop out is in the middle?

I don’t know if a disconnect will clear the errors. The proper way is to plug a diagnostic tool into the car and clear the fault codes. there is also a software update for the door modules i believe that resolves this issue.