ApertureS

Kufatec in my opinion is overpriced rubbish.... they put a huge pricetag on things for no reason and a lot of what they sell including their looms ive seen be poor quality. The coding dongles i do not trust as you dont actually know what they are coding and making changes to. carsystems.eu ive not dealt with personally and you havent linked exactly what youre buying? Buy the genuine retrofit kit from skoda for around £300, you will need to code it ideally with SVM and ODIS but it can be done with VCDS/Obd11. You wont be able to calibrate the camera and will be left with a fault code though, just so you are aware.

Internal battery failure of the dashcam sounds more likely. When the car restarts voltage will drop for a second, if the dashcam battery is charged then this will take over the shortfall for a few seconds. When you turn the car off, does the dashcam immediately switch off?

The smaller one is for an independent system - it is the speaker for the SOS/emergency call system.

Not at all, wiring looms are built for individual vehicles. There are no 'extra' plugs on any looms and if a new loom is required it is ordered against the VIN number to be exactly as required for that vehicle.

Not a chance will the wiring be there, VW group havent ever done a single harnesses. All harnesses in this century are ordered against a VIN number and are made to order for that specific car.

What light units did you use for this? Got a link?

I’ve never had to swap the airbag pins over and would assume this only applies to cars with ACC controls in the steering wheel, not the stalk. My guess would be your adapter harness is possibly wired incorrectly, what fault codes are present when the acc is inop?

Kessy cannot be turned off, why would you want to? easy entry is the tailgate ‘kick’ sensor to open the tailgate. i read it wrong, this is easy open, easy entry is moving the drivers seat back and forward when ignition is on and off. if you’re going through the trouble of accessing the fuse box for the fuses, just get a hardwire kit and fit the dashcam properly to a ignition live fuse.

Such a pointless retrofit if you’re only going to half do it. You have lots of fault codes left over and a passenger temperature control that does nothing. the worst part is, he removed most of the dashboard to run some wires, well at that point you may as well change the heater box and loom for the full climatronic version as you’re over half way there

Are you pressing the button in the centre console? as that’s the only way to activate it. You should also get a small diagram on the dash of the type of space you are going into whether it’s parallel or bay. Read the handbook before attempting it it only controls steering, not braking or gears.

I think he meant the tailgate struts. even if it was suspension dampers you can’t just fit DCC struts in place of standard, there is a massive amount of work required to do it.

You need to replace the struts, fit a module, create a custom wiring loom, boot latch and additional motor, interior trim and button and all the additional coding, dataset and calibration. all in for new genuine parts it’s around £1000 before labour is added.

No coding required. unbolt and replace, align new one, sorted.

This will not work! 2 reasons - when you put the handbrake on/off you retract the motor a couple of rotations, enough to release the pads, a few mm of movement. when it’s done electronically with a diagnostic tool it can rotate 10-30 times to fully retract the screw piston. you aren’t going to be able to move the piston back anywhere near what you need to if you do it with your method. The second issue is, it doesn’t take much for the car to decide to put the handbrake on for a number of reasons, either crushing your hand or popping the piston out and making a mess of everything. unwinding the piston manually is also a bad idea that many DIY people do, the car now doesn’t fully know where handbrake on and off positions are and you either get too much binding and wear the motor out, or too little clamping force and the handbrake doesn’t do much. I never get why so many people try to cut corners with brakes

To swap the heater for dual zone you need to remove the entire dashboard, drop the steering column, remove the support bar, drain the coolant and AC, replace the entire heater box and loom for it. Refit all and code the new system. not a quick job at all

The BCM is awake even when the car is locked 😛 Stays awake through most things as it is the controller for the central locking, if it was asleep, you wouldnt be able to unlock the car.

kW is the computer calculated level of how much power the engine is producing.

Please be more specific, what have you tested with a multimeter, how have you tested it, what is the values of the test? The way this system work is there is no 'unlock/lock' for the boot. There is simply 2 boot latching releasing methods - the key fob middle button that works all the time, and the external boot handle when pressed sends a 12v signal to the BCM, this then checks if the car is in a locked or unlocked state, if its in an unlocked state, it sends 12v to the boot latch to release it. So if the key fob is releasing the boot latch, then the boot latch and wiring to it is working no problem. The only part that is going to be faulty is the wiring to the external boot button or the external boot button itself. Thats why im a bit confused when you say youve tested it but wont say how or what the outcome is.

Hi there, There is an entire thread with a handy and easy to use map which shows current VCDS owners and their forum contact details

Sorry to say but not the case. The way the current monitor works is it monitors the return path to the battery. You can put the negative of a charger wherever you want on the car as long as its NOT the negative battery terminal. (and the location is rated for the correct current draw of course). Anywhere but the negative battery terminal is after the current monitor - including cigarette lighter, engine block and such. The positive can go on any direct connection the positive side of the battery so the 12v socket is acceptable for this.

what was the exact fault code you have got? And just to be pedantic, a diagnostic computer wont find faults and cant fully diagnose a fault, it will give you a fault code that the car has stored based on a problem. But chances of a fuse being the issue are slim and even if the fuse is blown, further investigation will be required into what caused it to blow.

How much???? 1300 is a stupid amount. If I do the job for people using all genuine parts including water pump, thermostat, cotton reel tube, coolant, bolts - I charge the following: £500 parts and £320 labour. And if they want the coolant bottle replaced with a non silikat bag one its an extra £30. So all in its £820 or £850 using genuine parts. Cheaper if they want aftermarket.

How are you connecting the charger? we need to know specifically where you are putting the positive and negative connectors.

Th This is normally caused by a fault with the temperature sensor in the wheel. Have you checked live data to see if you have an accurate temperature? Did you replace the wheel and steering controls together? Or are the steering controls from a separate setup? Is the clockspring genuine? Are there errors in any other modules?

They are not the camera. that is just the rain and light sensor. a camera is noticeable by a triangle in the top centre of the screen with a solid black border around it, roughly 2 inches in size.