ApertureS

It sounds like you have the front radar but not the front camera - in which case the only way is a replacement windscreen. If you do have the front assistance camera then it depends what type, 2Q0 can’t have traffic sign retrofitted, but can have lane assist. 3Q0 can have both. You can check the camera type with your vcds.

What switch have you tested and how do you know it’s working? if you’re talking about the tailgate external boot handle/button. There is a 99% chance that this is faulty so I’m not sure how you could have tested it? If you’re in the U.K. I sell genuine used boot handles for £25 posted.

Have you traced any of the wiring further than the boot? id say 1 plug went to a 13 pin tow car electrics loom and the other 2 some kind of module maybe. But it’s only a guess without a proper trace of the wiring.

You cannot push and rotate these calipers. People will probably come along and suggest the ‘manual’ way of using a ratchet and socket to back them off, this can cause binding issues and premature wear. The only correct way to do it is using a diagnostic tool sorry.

It is not lower, sportline is an aesthetic based trim level with no change directly to suspension, brakes or engine. sportline doesn’t mean it’s a sport model, you can equally have it in a 2.0 150bhp tdi or a 280bhp 4x4 tsi. Its just the trim package. onto differences you’ll have things like black trim, carbon interior trim, flat bottom wheel, 50/50 seats, electric tailgate normally, after that I’d guess it’s whatever optional extras have been spec’d

The car maintains the battery at different levels depending on the driving state in the moment as well as other factors. You keep using very non specific terms like ‘voltage were normal for the system’ , how do you know what is and isn’t normal for the system and what the car wants? It could be perfectly within the cars tolerances. alternators have came a long way from being used to simply pump out as much current as possible and a good alternator will vary its output from 12v-15v in some cases all to support better emissions, more power, regenerative braking, better battery life, micro hybrid systems and more. if the start stop isn’t working there can be a variety of reasons and these need looking into using a diagnostic computer to see any faults or live data. im still none the wiser as to what’s actually wrong with your battery other than you think something is wrong based on what?

As high as you’d hope isnt a specification? Voltage on idle and doing short journies aren’t a correlation? Im still a bit confused what the technical reason is you think the battery is faulty

Why would you fit the old D version that often fails opposed to the revised F version which doesn’t fail prematurely?

Brembo is part of your problem. absolute rubbish when fitted aftermarket - brembo calipers and such are brilliant, but pads are outsourced and generally the cheapest rubbish with a nice name tag. personally I’d fit something like ATE or TRW. or for aftermarket upgraded pads Ferrodo or EBC also the rear brakes on the mqb platform do next to none of the braking so fitting the upgraded rears won’t give you too much benefit sorry

Copper grease does not belong anywhere near a car nor has it done for the last 20 years since a massive range of metals are now in use and not just steel and iron, this means galvanic corrosion is more of a problem now than ever. Copper-ease/slip/seize (it’s not a grease) on the hub will simply dry out as heat cycles happen and leave the metal there as a thick layer causing further seizing. copper-ease on the threads will have the same issue + cause torquing issues. the manual makes clear to use clean dry threads but a thin layer of grease on the conical head is allowed. Not only that, myself and many other mechanics hate the stuff as it simply makes a mess everywhere. instead clean the hub and the wheel spigot and apply a thin layer of ceramic grease, the same for the wheel bolt conical faces. Ceramic grease is an actual grease, has high heat resistance and also is insulating to galvanic corrosion.

Just so you’re aware, genuine parts come with a 2 year guarantee

What do you mean by voltage is showing low in local use?

Neither of them are genuine cameras. the ‘mib high’ one doesn’t even look close to a genuine camera. the ‘mib low’ one wiring isn’t the correct colour and isn’t a genuine loom. Pictures aren’t quality enough to see if the camera is genuine. anywhere offering ‘high’ and ‘low’ cameras is not offering a genuine product as the octavia, superb, kodiaq and such genuine cameras don’t come in 2 types, just a single genuine type for both factory fit and retrofit. the only second type of camera is the KA6 reverse camera for area view cars which wasn’t available for your age car anyway.

S3 brakes are no different to Vw golf gti and superb 272/280 brakes. if you have the smaller superb brakes, the difference is almost none in the front. Slightly bigger discs. The rear is the main difference with vented discs instead of solid. What do you mean feels hairy under braking at speed? If you can specify the type of issue we can come to a solution. if it’s heat soak then grooved discs with ducting and larger wheels is a solution. if the brakes aren’t good at stopping then better quality pads are required. fitting bigger doesn’t always mean better

Even if the subframe is refitted using the alignment tool, wheel alignment is always needed as a tiny movement in the subframe translates to a big movement in the steering geometry. Officially the anti roll bar bushes can’t be had separate and need to be ordered complete with the entire anti roll bar but some companies sell bushes now.

A locksmith could theoretically pick the drivers door lock allowing you to climb through to the boot area to get the key, that will be the least destructive way of getting in. Unless you have a second key to access the car with.

For your car: 3G0845011ACNVB - heated glass, without lane assist camera - retails roughly £1000 3G0845011BBNVB - heated glass with lane assist camera prep - retails roughly £900 (Weird how the lane prep glass is cheaper) This is the prices for genuine glass, of course aftermarket glass is also a cheaper option and you have the choice of with/without lane assist prep which can also be retrofitted at the same time if not already fitted. If you wanted to discuss it being fitted any further please drop me a message on my signature below or private message me if you wanted to consider doing it yourself please continue to ask questions here as it can assist others too thanks

They won’t be too far different, if you wanted to let me know your registration I can work it out. When you say costs, did you mean you want the price for it fitted?

Good odds that it is a seized shroud on the water pump! But will need to go to a garage for further diagnosis in person. When was the timing belt last done and what’s the current mileage?

When you say main console do you mean the radio or do you mean the instrument cluster? Can you post a picture of this green bar you are talking about as there are many possibilities including dead pixels?

A lifetime warranty will be against manufacturing defects. The cracking you are experiencing is one of 2 causes; Environmental factors - such as strong car cleaning chemicals Rubber quality - newer tyres are often made using different process including a harder/softer compound more prone to cracking but with the benefit of noise reduction and better fuel efficency. Either way, goodyear will say something very similar to the above and kick you out the door. My Pirelli P7's after 3 years were cracked to pieces and from a MOT point of view, unless cords are exposed, its not a fail.

Just saying ‘the battery tests okay’ is not massively helpful as many will now skip over the battery without wondering it if it truly okay. what kind of test was done? When was the test done? What equipment was used? What were the specific results of the test? An example could be the battery tests okay - with a multimeter - at 13.8V - 5 seconds after the car has been switched off. it doesn’t test the battery properly nor paint a complete picture of the batteries health so is a false diagnosis. If a good test has been done and the battery is still dying then a current drain test is next using a non invasive method - if you do the old school method of pulling fuses and putting an ammeter in place the vehicle will be constantly woken/activated by different canbus modules. An inductive current clamp or thermal imager is the only correct way to accurately monitor any current draws but before that the battery, charging and driving style need to be confirmed as good.

Bit of a jump to condemn the bcm without further diagnosis no? The lights are on different circuits and the dash and door ones have a power supply, ground and linbus. Have you confirmed all 3 of these are working first?

Your mechanic should deal with it no? Unless i'm missing something. If a working genuine part was broken by the mechanic, a working genuine part should be refitted. Not an aftermarket faulty replacement? And surely if the mechanic either broke or replaced a part, they should be looking into the fault?

Because the car needs a minimum amount to register on the ultra sonic sensor. above the maximum will fill to the very top of the container leaving no airgap and the ultrasonic sensor won’t register any fill. 1 gallon is about 4.5 litres so put in 4.5 litres. But that being said, your car isn’t due for a top up so there’s no need to until you get a warning to top up.