ApertureS

HSD cable and a tonne of connectors arrived today. Never made a HSD connector before, just spent the last 45 minutes terminating one end. Anyone that plans on doing this, buy the cables made by a company! They are hard Also something to note - the cameras need a 'long' HSD connector, This comes in waterproof form, So ive got a waterproof connector for the front, but had to order another one for the rear. These are easier to fit also as they are solder connections, not 0.08mm crimps!!!! A lot of other connectors arrived also for this and the other projects, as I use them ill document them.

Am I right in thinking the heated steering button on the wheel does not work and you still need to go via the infotainment?

Come on man, please answer the questions asked or we are not gonna be able to help. 6 questions asked, 2.5 answered, you’ve gotta help us to help you.

Stalks remain the same, you are just changing the clockspring. you need clockspring 5q0953569C not sure about the loom as the kufatek wiring that is long only needs to go to the fuse box so could be cut short and recrimped I guess.

Did you take a backup before starting? What did you change? - specifics. What software did you use? Where was the TPMS dataset from? What is the TPMS control module part number and where is it from? Any fault codes? Please supply all this for us to understand where you may of made mistakes

Please dont go pulling fuses! Doing this on a car nowadays will never find a drain, as you pull/refit fuses you put modules to sleep/wake other modules up and youll never find the drain as modules will be doing a lot of things. This used to work on older cars but you wouldnt stand a chance on newer cars. The only way that is can correctly be done now is an inductive current clamp. Put the car to sleep by rolling door latches with the doors open and lock the car, give yourself access to the fuse box. You need to current clamp each fuses wire to see which is pulling a current and then you can trace that wire to the component/module to investigate further. You can narrow it down further by clamping entire fuse boxes first or just a bank of fuses to cut the hunting down but thats a bit more advanced Regarding the battery coding - no matter what you do here, this wont and cant cause a current drain, the battery adaptation is for start/stop, micro hybrid and charging.

I mean, if i dropped a bolt into the engine bay I would be finding it rather than forgetting it. that way, you know its not gone anywhere that will cause damage such as fall out and puncture a tyre or be in the engine somewhere it shouldnt and cause further damage. And plus, surely its easier to fish out a bolt than it is to boot up the computer, come on the forum, wait for a reply, find the bolt size, go to a hardware shop, buy a new bolt, fit new bolt?

The splitter is only required if your car already has MOST in use for canton or tv tuner.

If any of the 6 different adjustments loose their calibration, then memory will be lost for the entire seat, bit of a pain really!

The fault codes are for the lumbar support is missing its calibration. Moving the seat forward and backwards wont fix that Try moving the lumbar to its extreme positions in all directions, then hold the button at each end stop for a few seconds. If that doesnt work it can be done with a diagnostic tool, if not, it needs the software update listed above.

Most of the parts turned up today for the Areaview retrofit on a pre facelift car!

A lot of parts turned up for the areaview. The wings mirrors were hard to source without brand new ones at £1200 for both! So the best i could find was lhd ones (one without dimming). First i stripped and cleaned the mirros (including the stupid paint pen on the face of one) then I ran 2 new wires for the dimming on the non dimming one (awaiting plug). Next I have to extend the blind spot connectors, on the FL the blind spot LED is in the elbow of the mirror on the cover, and not wanting to buy 2 new mirror glasses at £300 each, I will extend the blind spot wires to the mirror glass. The centre console button cluster arrived, the difference between this and the one with no camera symbol - absolutely nothing except the little picture - you could use the old one just fine. The part number for this one is 3V2 927 132 R IHA (with electric tailgate and self park) The camera for the front has arrived and I can now get dimensions for this and start making a 3d printed bracket - 5Q0980546A is the part number. The rear camera is 8W8827566C and the version I have bought seems to be a dodgy version as the lens sticks out the camera body way too far, not an issue but the lens washer wont do anything. For now, this will do, if it all works, ill replace the camera with another one. The door wiring is a big issue, there are 4 methods to doing this: 1 - pin the 5 HSD wires to normal terminals and run them through the door plugs like normal wires. 2 - purchase new door connectors and the complete interior and door looms as skoda dont sell the data cables on their own 3 - purchase new door connectors and get the data cables new from a passat as VW sell the data cables on their own. 4 - purchase used loom sections from a breakers car and use these - i found a passat with the wiring complete. Why did I go for number 4 and not make the cables myself? Well the rosenberger HSD connectors that go in the plugs arent standard Fakra connectors and cant be purchased in quantities less than 10,000.... Part number time: Left mirror RHD - 3V2857507F Right mirror RHD - 3V2857508F Door connector - 3Q0972702 Body connector - 3Q0972701 HSD cables - Estate only! Mirror to door connector - 3G0971158C Left door to module - 3G0971158AE Right door to module - 3G0971158AC For the rear camera I will be making my own HSD cable as the standard one comes in 3 pieces at £80 each! Ill do in 2 pieces with a join just after the tailgate The front camera cable I will be making my own again, it comes in 3 pieces and at £80 each, no thanks. Ill need one waterproof connector at the camera and then a join just inside the car, then to the module. Cables and connectors will be arriving tomorrow for me to make the HSD cables. The mirror covers are also different for areaview as the entire mirror is chunkier. Stay tuned to find out what is different on LHD and RHD mirrors - I really hope these dont bite me in the ass, As I cant return them.

Any idea what extra coding? And are any other features missing from the BCM change?

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/retrofitting-heated-steering-wheel.396953/ https://www.seatcupra.net/forums/threads/how-to-retrofit-a-heated-steering-wheel-to-a-mk3-leon.470860/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/515572-how-to-retrofit-a-heated-steering-wheel-to-a-mk3-octavia/ 3 seperate threads with guides for you

1. Yes you can just replace the steering controls, no coding or anything needed. 2. My gateway is as follows, I believe a 3Q0 gateway is the only requirement, not the older 5Q0 Software version 5304 Hardware version 518 VW/Audi part number 3Q0907530G Hardware part number 3Q0907530C 3. I believe your MIB2 is compatible but the only difference is, you cant have maps on both VC and 5F at the same time, you need to enable a adaptation to turn on a 'swap screen' button. 4. Dont think this comes into it at all, but mine is as follows; Software version 0253 Hardware version H36 VW/Audi part number 5Q0937084CQ Hardware part number 5Q0937084CG

It doesnt youre right, but the parking heater will assist with that

I personally love the lane assist and adaptive cruise control. i also really enjoy the canton sound system as I really like my music. Electric tailgate with easy open comes in handy all the time when my hands are full too. and the heated windscreen and seats is used so much in the winter! No need to scrape anything, just sit in the warm car.

Put the mirror select switch to ‘L’ and it will drop when you put the car in reverse.

You’d first have to look at the fault codes and post them here for us to have an idea. next would be looking at live data for wheel speed sensors and seeing if one is doing something odd. the tpms and esp light together I understand but the diesel emissions light id take a guess is a different fault.

I will do my best! im sure people will want step by step guides for webasto, areaview and DCC. Although for all 3 of these retrofits even with second hand parts, you’ll be spending £1000 or more on parts alone. Not the lightest retrofit to carry out 😛

The tdi engines need the vent procedure run after doing the coolant drain/refill. This is due to the fact there are lots of water pumps and they won’t all be active all the time so the system will have air locks. yes it’s a pain in the ass but it’s the correct way to do it to avoid any issues

The control panel does not have component protection - but it will need coding

Huh? Im a bit confused, the fuel gauge will go up and down as you use it and fill it up? what do you mean false readings? what is it you want from this? Help fixing something? Let people know? People come to the forum to discuss and also get help, to do either of these things you’ll need to give us more than 1 sentence please.

Wont be going in before January, gonna wait for the weather to warm slightly! What questions did you have and I’ll do my best to answer them for you?

At this point probably, but I’m well underway now! the only thing I wish I started with was a sportline 280 estate with a sunroof - as retrofitting the pano roof and 4wd system is a pain in the ass (but not impossible)