ApertureS

Why was your heater locked in the first place? what is the condition that’s causing it? No flame? No fuel? Blocked air? It should give you a cause. Please give the exact fault code as well.

That is a lot of words about a law that you’ve not been able to quote? If you made the statement why not just quote the statute and section? Not once did I say I would or wouldn’t do things a certain way - Never did I say I would fit lower rated tyres - just asked you to cite your sources if you’re going to give people legal advice. fitting a different brand of oil filter or air filter is also technically an undeclared modification, fitting a different brand of tyre is also an undeclared modification from factory specification. I don’t remember the last time I even saw a tyre below a V speed rating for sale (in larger sizes like 17’’ up) which is rated for up to 149mph which 99% of cars won’t even get to 60% of their tolerance. It was a simple question of you made a statement quoting a law, so state the law. edit: something else to add - no vehicle is ‘plated’ with tyre sizes. A sticker in the door jam or fuel cap is not a plate. A ‘plated’ label is a legally required plate attached to the chassis which contains legally required information such as vin, load ratings and other vehicle data. A tyre pressure sticker comes in lots of different flavours and most do not state any tyre weight or speed sizes.

All ambient lights are LIN modules with a power, ground, lin wire. controlled by the bcm, so would need a custom lin decoder

never heard of that law before?

Thread lock isnt amazing under heat, it softens up. It still works, but less so. You also have the added risk with stretch bolts of simply the head snapping off the bolt leaving just the threads. Personally id replace them, can be done in about 30 minutes really, top timing cover and one at a time whilst you rotate engine. N10546403 is the part number and you need either 5 or 10 depending if you have twin camshaft control or single. Roughly £1 each. A cheap 1/4 US PRO torque wrench can be had on ebay for £15. Couple of £ for a tube of loctite. You could quite easily do it yourself for £30 if you wanted.

From the manual

Common problem. normally caused by a timing belt being done and people don’t replace the bolts like they are meant to - sounds like your garage of choice has done the same. get replacement bolts and refit with medium loctite, no further issues

Take your pick of any of these. I believe either 6 or 8mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295491898983?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=egiIUv6sSZO&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=eJG-MHlgQw-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

A check by eye won’t be enough. a smoke test of the car is required to find pin holes, poor connections, one way valve failed, pcv fault, EGR leaks

It means the garage has probably just throw a pump on it based on a fault code rather than actually diagnose if the pump is faulty, check all parts of the systems and go from there. Unless you had the fault code and paid them to simply change the pump rather than diagnose the fault?

Did you calibrate the tailgate struts after replacing them so they know their end stop positions? Why did you change the latch and button? were they swapped for genuine parts? also in the tailgate module there are relays but can’t be changed, something is causing them to activate, in live data for the tailgate module there is something along the lines of ‘last reason for tailgate inhibit’

No customs charges for EU or U.K., they’re not just U.K. based so nothing to worry about there.

C version has been obsolete for a while now so if you have found one it’s most likely either; used or a fake copy as vw don’t and haven’t had them new for a while. take a look at LLLparts, it’s about £70 last I checked

Something that is always worth noting, and from experience: The rust you can see wont be all the rust. You can guarantee there is more rust under the paint spreading outwards. A touch up pen may work for now or a few years. But sooner or later it will bubble up sadly.

Brembo pads and discs (aftermarket) have got to be some of the worst ive fitted. Nothing but problems and squeaking from them. I prefer either TRW, Pagid or ATE.

Are you sure it isn’t coolant as this can have a orange/pink/rusty colour to it?

Same system as the superb so won’t make much difference but wrong forum section 😛 this is the default screen when there is no fault yes, so nothing to worry about. After setting pressures you press set, it confirms and the screen will look the exact same, if there were low pressures it turns orange.

It’s in the very first post of this thread

The 659 is the software part number - ignore this as there any many software variants that tried to fix various issues. just focus on the 643 number older versions are a false economy as they will very likely fail very quickly

That is a bit overkill for what’s required. OE wiring uses 0.5mm wire for runs up to and sometimes over 10 meters long at 10amp, a 0.5mm cable is more than sufficient for an amp or two from a dash cam. voltage drop in a day to day car is negligible and really doesn’t come into it much as the cable lengths are so short compared to housing or national power lines.

You’re being taken for a ride sorry! There is no way they can give a timescale of the life of the battery and also, the battery hose is only fitted on batteries mounted inside the cabin to prevent enclosed space gas build up, anything outside the cabin does not require a vent hose and is just an open hole.

The number is the wire thickness, yes. The wire at pin 1 is the power, pin 2 is the ground. The little box at the top of the red wire relates to a location that is found along the bottom of the page. Disabling canton means coding out the amplifier and running new wires from the back of the headunit to your new amplifier. I wouldnt recommend taking your amp input from the already pre filtered outputs of the canton amp.

I am very much with J.R. here, a battery doesnt leak acid unless its cracked, boiling over due to over voltage. Even then, it wont spray out and cover things to the side and almost a foot away from it. Very weird that your mechanic is blaming 2 components on battery acid corrosion... Id be looking elsewhere for a mechanic who isnt just guessing. Basic checks need confirming; does the actuator move by hand? what is the resistance across the actuator controller whether electric or vacuum electric? any voltage to the actuator? is the boost sensor reading okay? is the turbo spinning freely? are there any boost leaks?

Either way round is fine. Just isolate any open connectors from the elements

How have you connected the canbus wiring? Have you checked for power and ground at the camera? if you can’t get comms with the camera it will either have no power or the signal isn’t wired to the correct place