ApertureS

you dont think they would take that into account.... if the cameras are well before and well after the roadworks it doesnt take a genius to add up the time in both 70 zones doing 70 and the time in the 50 zone doing 50 to give the minimum amount of time it would take between point A and point B. Any time between the cameras that is lower than that is speeding in any or all of the sections, pretty simple

I’m currently looking at investing in the tool and offering them to the community at a reduced price - just trying to weigh up the viability of it and if anyone would be interested?

What do you mean change the location?

Not personally had to change a wheel bearing on the MQB platform so id say they are generally good quality and not a normal failure point

Where are you based so i can know if i can collect the boot mat? Also, estate or hatch?

Yeah they don’t go back In easily that’s for sure, I managed to get mine back in with a lot of gentle wiggling and pressure. If not, cut them off? Can’t see it going very far without them

So the reason for this is your vehicle is on the crossover year so there are 2 options basically...

That was your first mistake, euro's hardly supply the correct anything for any application! Whats the registration for the vehicle you are trying to get the filter for, id be interested to look into it myself and see if its a supplier issue or eurocarparts issue.

Use a second hand unit for a fraction of the price - if it’s a like for like; any garage can do it, if it’s an OEM upgrade you are after then it can be done by a specialist for still a damn sight less than 3k - wouldn’t expect to pay more than £1000 for this

Yes that’s an adblue injector but yours may be located down the back of the engine visible from the top. You also may not be able to fully remove from the car as it will have coolant lines connected to it also

It sounds like the classic water pump shroud seizing. you’ll need a timing belt and water pump replacing if it found to be that. But the symptoms you describe all match up. the reason it happens under load is the engine is fairly good at self regulating it’s own temperature without any flow needed at low load and revs, whereas at higher loads it needs the water pump to assist with moving the coolant a bit faster to cool the engine a bit. There is a metal sleeve over the water pump that moves up and down to regulate coolant flow and this seizes in the open or (mainly) closed position also - don’t open the coolant cap on a hot car!!! You risk 100+ degree water exploding out the reservoir all over you.

Why would you get rid of the fully functioning radio with all the car features and fit an aftermarket radio that has no car control features? The aux is on the blue plug, I believe usb is on the yellow 4 pin plug but it goes through a box at the usb port first so probably not compatible with whatever radio you fit. and one of the single pin plugs possibly blue or black is for dab

With main dealer Skoda servicing you will only get oil, oil filter, sometimes pollen filter. Other than that, everything else is an additional cost extra! all other filters, gearbox, differential, brake fluid - all cost extra and although Skoda have intervals for their work, they are only recommendations

Possibly a sticking rear caliper is the route I would be going down.

We don’t know what kit you have? When do you want it to come on?

you will have to make some coding changes so it accepts the right video type also. why arent you going down the route of a genuine camera either?

It wont work with the standard radio. Its not made to accept a standard RCA input sorry

How sure are you for the plug thing? As looking on the parts diagram you have the old style handle 5E0827566 up till 25/05/2014 then after that it changes to 5E0827566B/3V0827566 which are both identical (these are standard handles without cameras) there is nothing of mention about different setups with different plugs that I can see

Its no different to any other car really? bumper off, crash bar off, undo the 2 hardlines, remove condenser from radiator pack. reverse the procedure

What is a £30 code reader going to do in this situation to help? Its not going to throw up fault B0111 - change the heater blow resistor or B0112 - there is a burnt out wire on the heater fan connector. A code reader is only as good as the person using it and a lot of systems and faults aren’t able to self diagnose let alone tell you what to replace. the most you might get out of this is a short to positive blower motor code. Which doesn’t help with a huge amount without further diagnosis still. the difference is you have a £30 code reader to recoup the cost on, they have £100,000s worth of tools, building, staff and training to recoup the cost on

If you drop me a private message with your vehicle details I can supply a quote. as nicky said above, if you have the old style handle there is no genuine retrofit for that sorry. There are aftermarket options I believe but they wouldn’t be something I would fit sorry. drop me a message with your details and I can tell you what you can have.

Personally I would steer well clear of the chinese 'self coding' cameras as a first point, some people like them, personally I dont and ive seen many go wrong. Secondly, If you wanted to do it yourself there are forum guides available but you will need the parts, a good diagnostic tool, and (although the difference will barely noticed) to do it properly you need a calibration tool and ODIS to clear the basic setting fault code and set the guide line positions. Unless of course, you wanted a trip to north london then its something I offer fully fitted using genuine parts and have done for quite a few people on the forum now

Normally I am the first one to slate any and all dealerships but... You cant have your cake and eat it. You either want them to simply supply and fit a part (if you knew what part it was) - no liability on them for a wrong diagnosis and your problem if it doesn't work. Or you want them to do a end to end process that carries a guarantee where they listen to your symptoms, carry out a proper diagnosis, find the fault, located the faulty part or whatever else and then replace it, test the system again, return the car to you. You speak to someone and tell them your fan only works on settings 2 and 3, the person you speak to generally has 0 technical knowledge and is just there to book you in, and even if they did, there are many possible causes however unlikely some may be. If they quote you for what they 'think' it may be, say, a fan resistor at £30 and an hour to fit so lets say £130 all in, and it actually turns out your heater resistor has melted the wiring loom and the heater box itself at a cost of £1000's, well then you are going to complain because you were told it was only £130. You aren't telling them the problem, you are telling them your problem, which is just the symptoms you experience, you then have to pay them to find the actual problem. Which is more than reasonable.

Luckily theres a bit more of a financial incentive now... the huge price increase in R134A and R1234yf means that collecting the gas is often a bit more beneficial than just venting it.

Okay lets cover all basis - 1.4 TSI - Belt, Tensioner, Idler pulley, Seals, Bolts 1.5 TSI - Belt, Tensioner, Idler pulley, Seals, Bolts 1.5 TSI ACT - Belt, Tensioner, Idler pulley, Seals, Bolts, Possibly water pump needs removing but not replacing - Fairly expensive job due to specialized tools 1.5 TDI - Never actually done one so I cant give you any input on that 1.6 TDI - Belt, Tensioner, Idlers, Water pump, Bolts 2.0 TDI - Belt, Tensioner, Idlers, Water pump, Bolts 2.0 TSI - Timing Chain That should cover everything I hope (except 1.0, 1.2 and 1.8 engines)