ApertureS

You don’t need to dismantle the main screen, you are just running a wire behind it which can be done without taking it out. But if you still want to remove it, you need 4 radio removal keys and insert them in the 4 horizontal slots on the display, one in each corner

He replied with how it went down

Where did you see every 2 years/30k? Longline coolant can last up to 10 years and VW definitely don’t recommend it at 2 years for U.K. climates. A car in the 80s may of needed it every couple of years but newer coolant has new technology and will last easily until a water pump change when it will be replaced anyway.

There is no MOST connection on the display. The points with a most connection are; 5F unit glovebox Canton amplifier Instrument cluster TV tuner (not all are fitted in all cars) To remove the screen you need 4 removal keys but there is no need to remove it if you are looking for a MOST port. and just so you are aware when you swap the new instrument cluster in without any coding you will not be able to start the car as the immobiliser will not work.

The sensor/switch is built into the latch itself yeah would need replacing as a whole if that is the actual faulty part.

Vehicle status wont tell you anything about the engine management fault, it will need to be plugged in with a suitable diagnostic tool to find the fault code/description.

Drop me a PM or use the link in my signature to the facebook page to contact me

My advice would be to replace it with a genuine one then, with aftermarket you don’t know how it’s fitted or if it’s been coded or anything.

I mean if you wanted to i'm more than happy to do it for you, from the UK to Australia is around £20 for the postage one way. But you may be able to find someone who does smd soldering in AU cheaper?

I mean, a mass petition would of been not buying the car no? You purchased the car with that feature advertised so why buy it if you dont want it?

The battery monitor is on top of the negative terminal. First check its plugged in, then check wire continuity, if they are both okay, the negative terminal will need replacing.

For something like that all I could offer is to carry out the work then glue it shut for you?

Im looking at offering the following modification for people if anyone is interested. So the removable boot torch has nice white LED's for the torch part, but the actual boot light is an ugly dull yellow light not very fitting with a modern car as pictured below. Im looking to see if anyone would be interested in the following service; You post me your torch and once I receive it and inspect to make sure its undamaged and in fully working, I immediately send you out a replacement bright pure white LED torch. So a 1 for 1 swap without having to wait for the work to be done as I have some premade. Or if people want their specific one back or it is damaged I can happily do the work on their torch and send their exact one back to them - just means it will take a little longer. So you are probably wondering the outcome of this work and what it will look like afterwards, please see below; For those wondering cost, I was thinking £20 is reasonable, that will be the cost of the parts, my time to carry out the work and return postage included. So, what do we think? Would any of you be interested? (Will only be offered in the UK due to postage costs overseas)

There is a strong chance it is faulty - if your car has no ADAS features then the button is simply not there. The button is not a lane assist on/off button sorry, Although it can be used for that, it also controls blind spot, cruise control, predictive cruise control and a few other ADAS features.

Is it a genuine camera or some aftermarket stuff? Was it factory fitted or retrofitted? If the latter, who fitted it and how long ago?

3 things of note in the following; IDE06684-MAS05563 Lumbar support height adjustment-Norming never normed IDE06684-MAS05719 Lumbar support height adjustment-Maximum travel 5164 IDE06685-MAS01390 Lumbar support longitudinal position adjustment-Block 1 65535 IDE06685-MAS01391 Lumbar support longitudinal position adjustment-Block 2 33200 IDE06685-MAS02282 Lumbar support longitudinal position adjustment-Position 29996 The Block 1 and 2 are the max and min positions - these should be 0 unless youve already adapted them which i dont think so. The norming never normed means that it doesnt know its end stops - this needs correcting by clearing ALL adaptations for the module, running the norming routine and running each axis to its end stops and then holding the button for a few further seconds in each stop. The position is passed block 2 - this means that it can move past its defined end stop confirming the above. Basically you need to clear all adaptations, norm the Block 1 and 2 by moving all motors to end stop and then some, then finally run the ODIS routine if that doesnt resolve it.

If they all went bad together there would be no difference in balance so no fault logging - chances are a few are going wrong so skewing the data, hence the fault codes.

A balance issue generally relates to an injector leaking/blocked partially. Id be sending injectors away for testing before replacing any.

Hi there, Please make your post in english as per the forum rules. Even with google translate I am unable to understand what you are asking so i cannot offer any help sorry.

It is a cast iron part that goes through extreme heat cycles. There is absolutely nothing wrong with that - and the term rust generally implies penetrative corrosion - this is surface oxidization which is perfectly normal for cast iron and is not a defect or an issue. Replacing an entire turbo and it would look the exact same after a few months. And going down the legal route before even speaking to them nicely is just terrible practice and rude - that would be if there was an issue (which this isnt)

I wouldnt know it off the top of my head sorry. The method i would follow is using ODIS which will run through the correct procedure automatically sorry.

Ah okay, the 1.4 tsi EA211 is belt driven not chain driven

What about it would be a safety issue? The bulbs and latch for all interior lights are fed the same 12v source and the latch is what activates the tailgate light ground to complete the circuit.

The clips that hold the A pillar trim are technically 1 time use and should be replaced - albeit no on does, replace the clips and report back your findings

If youre only in hertfordshire feel free to get in touch if you need any work - im also in herts Regarding the rear washer - the pump is attached to the reservoir at the front of the car, the line runs to the back of the car, through the wiper motor (if its a hatchback) and out the nozzle in the pivot point of the arm. Im not sure why they would suggest a wiper motor unless its damaged and completely blocked and cant be unblocked.