ApertureS

Just no need, many other cars over here like Land Rover have a webasto/eberspatcher heater system. the climate isn’t on either end of the extremes to warrant it really. That being said I am looking at being the only U.K. spec petrol with a parking heater.

It’s not an option but will be added depending on spec and engine. most will have it and my tsi also has it.

Hi there and welcome. what country and what year is your vehicle? there are 2 kinds of auxiliary heater 1 is a electric heater element to assist with warming the cabin up before the engine gets up the temperature the other is a full coolant heater made to preheat the cabin and engine and uses fuel from the tank through a small ‘engine’ mounted in the wheel arch. if you are after the second option and in the U.K. it was sadly not an option at all. the tick box on the infotainment is for enabling the electric heater automatically when the interior air is colder than required

youll struggle to clean them, you can try taking them off and using vineger and a high pressure air line, but fan jets once blocked are hard to unblock

All engines will burn small amounts of oil. 1 litre of oil for 8000 miles is perfectly fine. And that is assuming the last service had the oil to the max level and not in the middle somewhere.

I wouldnt go with a cheap knock off. They are generally bad quality and fail easily. I know its a lot more expensive, but it will actually last if you get a genuine regulator.

Yup that’s normal:)

I dont even doubt this for a second. The windscreen companies make pennies on the job so they employ the cheapest idiots to do the work and then force them to rush the job. For mine they took 4 hours to fit a screen that should of taken max an hour. They then tried to cover the damage up with windscreen adhesive. Turns out they broke the a pillar trims, scuttle trims, took paint off both a pillars and the roof edge and also damaged the bonnet. Not to mention the windscreen being completely wonky. My advise to the OP, go over the windscreen area with a fine tooth comb, there will be more issues than youve mentioned. Make sure they put it all right. And inform your insurer as they are the ones paying the bill and wont pay it if you arent 100%

You are in for a roller coaster.... Dont let them repair it. You want it to go to a garage and the garage will carry out a suitable repair. If they do it, they will bodge it. Personally I would have a main dealer do it using their documented and approved repair techniques. I had a windscreen company cause over £5000 by the end of its worth of damage to my Superb. The cables run across both pillars and down to the footwells, they are part of the complete interior wiring loom so cant be purchased seperately so need repairing properly. Also, dont let them try and say its not their fault the cables shouldnt of been there, it is their fault and make sure you fight it.

The sticker in the boot will have a gearbox code so that’s a good start. If you can get a photo of that we can work with it. but as someone else suggested Erwin and a print out is 100% your best bet

Should be a small torx, flathead or Philips next to the fan outlet

Corrected thanks!

How much??? drop me a message, I should be able to sort you something much cheaper if you’re near london If it’s the radio control unit in the glovebox it shouldn’t be anywhere near that! if it’s the connectivity module behind the display it should not be anywhere near that also!

It lights up, no excuse there

Anyone got a video of their rear seat release from boot area in operation, i want to compare my retrofit.

So road tax or vehicle excise duty was a ‘emissions charge’ then they realised as more people get hybrid and electric cars with £0 road tax they are loosing a lot of money. so now it’s not ‘emissions’ dependent and we all have to pay into the road tax whether hybrid of petrol diesel

Don’t start throwing spanner’s in the works by mentioning haldex people... haldex is 4wd system and is completely independent of the gearbox. this has its own service procedure and items and periods. I doubt yours is 4wd seen as it’s 220 tsi

It will be a DQ250 with a 40,000 mile interval, there is no timescale on this. a service on this involves a filter, copper washer and an oil change. that is everything that’s needed to know. and last thing; main dealers are subsidised to make the price near enough impossible for independents to compete with so it’s normally worth a dealer doing it for £200 and change

It’s a specific type of dry clutch that it only due at 80k, his will be a wet clutch so 40k when you say filter strainer what are you referring to? There is no filter strainer on a DQ250 gearbox? you have a cartridge filter and that is all.

There is a lot of paperwork, DVLA would want to know and require a vehicle inspection. It would then not be inside the 'crash safe zone' so youre running a much higher risk for the rear passenger. Also insurance would be a pain. And not to mention, where do you expect their legs to go?

Damn 5 years ago 😂 if you’re looking for someone to do it, I offer it, I’m in north London if that’s any good?

Glow plugs can be very hit or miss so it’s probably best just in case one does break. glowplugs are a odd one, they are used for so much more than cold starts nowadays, emissions control is a big one and glowplugs are used to assist the dpf with regens and other post combustion processes.

4 locks... no, just no. that is a case of they can’t be bothered to do a proper diagnosis and instead throw a blanket over it. If that was in warranty you think Skoda CZ would pay out for 4 door locks without proof of exactly what would be the cause. take it elsewhere, I’ve had similar issues when a door module has been incorrectly coded after a latch was replaced. did you get a copy of the fault codes or anything

Glow plugs and spark plugs are not at all related and don’t do the same thing at all. as for changing them it goes 1 of 2 ways - easy and they just pop out - hard and they are seized in or snap, or strip threads. the chances of either happening are 50/50 so if you do attempt it yourself they should be 10Nm so literally hand tight and a tiny bit more. Same with coming out, if they’re seized, don’t keep trying

Most likely will be a flywheel starting to fall apart. replace clutch and flywheel together, I know it’s not the cheapest of parts but it’s worth it rather than doing a job twice