Former

Sorry Derek I've no idea where they were made, could be China for all I know, the eBay posting didn't say and there wasn't anything in the packaging that I noticed. I did notice picking the parcel up from the hall floor that it felt reassuringly heavy. As my back is playing up again this week I make no apologises for whinging about the need for these tools because of the stupid idea of not having wheel studs, but bolts, I never experience this until this car (that I can remember) with any other cars we've had or with friends and neighbours cars.

That confused me. 😁 When I read it I thought you meant the camera, digital video monitoring?, Google gave me Doctor of Veterinary Medicine for DVM search, then I clicked on DVM electronics images of Fluke handheld meters and finally it clicked, photos at top of thread. 😆 I'm not so keen on those, a permanent display tends to get ignored and sometimes difficult to see in daylight (like "smart" phone and other portable device screens), garish bright colours, gives something else to distract from driving and worry about. VW should provide this information on the dash something you can scroll the thumbwheel to see like oil temperature. A mate has a permanently installed DVM into the dash, can't see it in sunlight, didn't stop him leaving the heated windscreen on and draining the battery at the start of his journey in France. 😄 He wired it so that the tell-tale light operated instead when he put his lights on! And he's altering the wiring on his mate's kitcar so that it has a fusebox(!), I asked if he thought that was wise, I dread to think how it'll be as his car has a spiders web of wiring from the add-ins on it. I did mention how well fibreglass burns.

If you mean the lime green thing isn't it some sort of plastic/'rubber' seal or marker to denote which part it's on if there's a choice (another option with a different colour ring on it), have you felt it with your fingers to see if it feels like a soft pliable O-ring sort of feel? On a quick Google search P04F0 for VW comes up as EVAP system sensor circuit so if that's a sensor it might be something to do with that or someone messing with it. To be sure codes are correct you do need an appropriate scan tool VW and to your model and year of vehicle and have that program on the scan tool fully up to date. HTH.

Just out of curiosity I weighted the "alignment tool(s)" I mentioned on 20th August, 174g, (each) (148 mm long) and the magnet stuck. And referencing my last post, by coincidence this afternoon whilst waiting in my neighbour's car flicking to BBC World Service on the 'radio' I heard the 'World Business Report' program which was about 'Why's Europe's car industry stuck in neutral?' and in particular VW related to what I put in my last post via VW's dieselgate (my description) it's leads to VW's electric cars distraction and the Chinese electric cars and government. I will add this was in addition to other matters they discussed including one of VW's top guys being in trouble for possibly being accused of possibly trying to con the US market (my description) (all are innocent until proven guilty). - BBC World Service, 'World Business Report', 'Why's Europe's car industry stuck in neutral?' - "We start in Germany, where perhaps the biggest warnings yet about the pressure on Europe's car industry have come from one of the continent's biggest firms. Volkswagen - VW - has warned it could close factories for the first time in its history as it comes under increasing financial pressure. Also today the boss of one of the world's biggest delivery firms warns of disruption to global trade, And, fancy an AI dating - wingman?" - https://www.bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/w3ct607g

Don't worry he's only for me, you will have to find another if you really want another one. Personally I think what you had in the very first photo of this thread is the best compromise but I am biased as I don't like remote locking fobs, I like keyblades only, in mechanical locks. With my wife's previous car the folding blade of the remote fob broke and my wife insisted on a replacement and on the 2015 Fabia the remote fob just stopped operating and using the "emergency" keyblade in the hidden door lock set off the car's alarm, replacements were expensive and required further installation work or procedure that had to be paid for. I could have got the part and work done for a lot less on the Fabia but as I have seen even good quality professional have a rare problem with getting the VW computer programs to accept the new parts I wasn't risking it as if there was a rare event and much more expensive parts and work were required it would be on VWŠkoda to resolve, I have limited faith in computer programs, particularly from car manufacturers, bad enough in other products. To me It is just adding complications to possible go wrong. Even a mate's Honda S2000, one of the most reliable cars going the (UK added) alarm went wrong after about 13 years, that was the only thing to play up on the car until about 18 years of age when a hazard switch had to be replaced.

You still want to fully or as very much possible ("fully") charge the battery to get the best out of it. If you can borrow a multimeter I think it's best to check the battery at the the battery terminal posts as many hours as possible after driving the car or charging the battery with the bonnet up and car locked(?) (I think that's possible I forget) and car left for about half a hour for the computers and other stuff to settle, might be more on a 2021 car I don't know. Then allow say 0.2v or 0.3v for parked up use. This gives an idea of the battery, then if it can be repeated many hours later without the car being used it will give an idea of any drop in the battery. Best not to let the battery so low that the start/stop doesn't work other than in circumstances as explained in the Owner's Manual. Good luck.

Yes but he's been replaced for me by the not so new guy and it's getting very old and very wearing, I am sure if he lived in the UK and we meet face to face. he would be far more restricted in what he would say or put but probably whinge about not being able to do so to "all and sundry". 😁 "Enough already" (which I thought was Irish) of the man, I leave you to your remote key.

The (UK) English is very complicated with some spoken words sounding exactly the same but meaning different things and spelt differently, or a word could have different spellings and mean exactly the same. Then there are the very many spoken local and regional accents and dialects in England only. The language continually develops and changes, Shakespeare and the language he used though respected isn't as so widely admired and used in the UK as it may seem to Americans and others outside the UK, there are even doubts about what he actually wrote and if he actually existed. Not everyone in the UK lives in London or went to Oxbridge type universities or universities at all. Younger generations often use spoken words like "somethink" (or sumfink) instead of something that doesn't make them wrong as the idea is to communicate, the English language is made of of words from all over the world, after all language is just something made up by people, like many other things.

Don't be confused by my troll who has only turned up to have a go at me via you and not to meaningfully contribute. I don't expect you to know all about the UK and the English language which is why I advised you of the meaning of the word you originally used before you edited to the full version. I am sure by now you have looked up the UK English meaning and use of the shortened word. I have never suggested that you are bigoted with your use. You may or may not know of the recent troubles in the UK, those of us that actually live in the UK will obviously stand more chance of knowing more about this and I can absolutely without any doubt assure you that the word you used was, and AFAIK still is, used as a racist slur in the UK from what is called "casual racism" particularly with the older generation but also institutions and without any casualness by those brought up with ignorant prejudice and far right racist thugs and organisations. With your interest in language, in the UK one of the most popular English foods is "a curry" with take-away "Indian" curries being very popular but the "Indian" take-away "curry house(s)" (restaurants) are actually IIRC 80%(?) actually Bangladeshi. Sorry I don't know what you mean. I was only trying to help you I can't know your intentions but having exchanged a few posts and know your age and what you've put on this site advise you in a direct and positive manner that you picked up on if not initially fully understood or perhaps even liked but you picked up on it. I perhaps wasn't in the best mood having already had to put up with more trolling from my personal troll elsewhere on the site. I can only speculate why he so persistently trolls me, for a long time now, but I know he wouldn't want me to crash and die as then he would have to find someone else to pick on. 😁 Such a shame as he very often has very good information and advice to give and only occasionally turns nasty on other posters.

As far as I am concerned you can use whatever words you like as long as you're not breaking any laws or site rules. America being invasive in many ways has introduced many American terms and words that have become common use in the UK possibly including bull****. Other American terms and worlds can be more confusing on a UK English language site because they do mean something different in the UK to USA.

The Chinese government are helping Chinese companies with warehouses (or part area in them) to be stacked with very cheap Chinese goods, some of it utter crap but no doubt other bits reasonable or good. Perhaps these seem (and actually are) very good for some purchasers in the short and medium term but possibly not so in the longer term, as America has found out. Possibly the two sets I bought were from China or Chinese made, so difficult to know for sure now. For a few decades I and others had many issues with Chinese made parts for "classic" cars with the suppliers and many purchasers racing to the bottom with purchase price and very frequently quality. So much so that alternative good quality parts, at higher purchase prices started to disappear and unavailable. Each to their own, buy as you please, I can't see how you can go too far wrong with these items (unless they snap or scratch the wheel bolt holes) but at £1.17 including P&P even at UK postage I do wonder how the item was made and got from China to here and be able to be sold at that retail cost.

If you really feel you have no safe place to charge the battery (this isn't a lithium battery) in your house then the best thing for you is to replace the battery with a good quality new battery. It is also best to 'code' the new battery and will certainly be required if changing from EFB to AGM battery. You might have some drain on the battery from some item drawing power whilst the car is parked up, above and beyond the unusual factory stuff, do you have any items added to the car not from factory, a dash and/or rear camera, etc.? For months you have been getting a message that tells you the battery is low enough for the computer to disable the start/stop so your driving is insufficient to charge the battery enough to resolve this, once the battery is low and recharged enough the battery is worn more and more, a downward spiral which gets harder and harder to reasonably recover the battery from. There certainly have, I have put many here and elsewhere on Briskoda. I can post loads of info for you or you can search on here by using the 'Search' box at the top right of the page and using the drown down arrow in it to click on 'This Forum' for Mk3 Fabias. If your car is under warranty have you checked with the Dealership, also for any (admitted) VWŠkoda recalls (there was one for earlier cars relating to battery issue CU97). As a 2021 car is there any chance it might go back to covid production building times, have you had any other electrical issues? I don't know Bletchley now (I used to live in Wolvertun, Brad'l, New Brad'l (Bradville) but that was many decades back) but wonder if you could if required on a new battery use a solar charger at home, or work, There are lots of variables and bear in mind your plug-in digital meter reading is with you sitting in the car not when parked and locked up with whatever electrics are drawing power at either times. The following VW figures would refer to the battery out of the car sitting on a bench. - Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V Ring charger figures - 12.7v - 100% 12.5v - 90% 12.4v - 80% 12.3V - 70% 12.2v - 60% 12.1v - 50% 11.9v - 40% 11.8v - 30% 11.6v - 20% 11.3v - 10% HTH.

This is a UK English language site, the shortened version of the word is a very offensive bigoted racist slur in the UK also used by very violent extreme right thugs and organisations.

Edited - now a redundant post.

The VW battery info stuff was about VW stats, and probably being able to blame the battery manufacturers for some VW balls-ups that stuff is redundant now and not on the batteries. Yeap the 'coding' is basic just getting the capacity (ah) correct or at leas very close, battery manufacturer means nothing now, serial number was a joke as seen from factory below my wife's battery and others that have reported on here were all "1111111111" so just changing the last digit was enough to show a new battery, most important was the type of battery, EFB or AGM (know as "fleece/Fleece" to VW. varoom made the attached pdf freely available to those that want it for VCDS battery 'coding'. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

That sounds like you bought the same Varta(?) (Tosch) labelled battery as I put on my wife's 2015 Fabia, did you 'code' it to the car for AGM? Some find it hard to believe how draining frequent short journeys can be on the battery but they also possibly can't understand why their home electric bills are so high, I think a coin (not card) slot-meter for the car's battery would teach some particularly pampered children not used to paying for such stuff. 😁 I don't now have access to my former neighbour's TopDon scanner and Ring charger and analyser but from experience of decades of living around old people I know that a creaking gate can hang for a very long time or whatever the saying is, I'd take the SOH numbers as a guide only a comparison from previous readings, set to the correct battery spec of course. Keeping the battery from getting too low in charge and if required occasional preventative recharging of the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer (following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and for the charger maintainer) if the car isn't getting sufficient driving use will keep its health reasonable for as long as possible. Even with the PITA VW systems I've found I have very, very little to do very occasionally and it's clean hands work with the tools doing all the stuff in whatever weather whilst I do any other than the what is to me loathsome PITA farting about with a car. I've no idea how long the battery will last on my wife's Fabia but my aim is to so it go with the car and do as little as practically possible to both until then, but they will be more than nothing of course. As I used to use various "classic" cars as my daily use and for work use vehicles for 30+ years having a car that started was very important, if it would start then very often (certainly not always) what other problems with the car I could limp it home and worry about it in the warm and dry, as batteries used to be called starter batteries these were always important to me and that they were in good condition and connection to help start, get home, and diagnosis some issues.

Your experience was just about the same as with my wife's insurance renewal with perhaps the difference that after the quote from going to a popular comparison site getting back to that site via TopCashback Compare got her £45 back from TopCashback too. Again quality of the insurer and the policy are more important to me than absolute lowest policy price should a claim ever need to be made and obviously you can never know when that might be.

Be interesting to see how that compares with your 2010 Golf (especially if start/stop). Yes you hope VW have things have been calculated correctly, IIRC (which is often doubtful) I've read AGM batteries are fine at 80%(?) but then real life use can vary things a lot sometimes. From what I've read, seen and experienced it's rare to have a bad new battery but on the other hand there's VW, my wife's 2015 Fabia was subject to "recall campaign(?)" 97CU which was to quote Briskoda member vgnils - " I looked into this the other day in erWin. This is what it says: "Technical background - For Škoda vehicles of a certain production period the energy management of the vehicle battery has been optimised. Remedy - On the affected vehicles the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed (see criterions)."". In the 2024 Karoq Owner's Manual it has - so it appears a month was being too generous, and they give advice on charging amperage and to fully charge the battery. -

Post deleted to save boring others and myself.

I'm not impressed with CTeks based on my mate owing a couple of them and their high prices but I'm surprised by this, was it the CTEK, mains power supply or Disco 3 or 4 that caused this do you know? A mate had an early Land Rover Disco in 1990 and when we went to the 20th anniversary LR Monthly magazine (?) big meet at Billing Aquadrome, just up the road from me, we went out in the LR demo Camel Disco and the LR man had a show of hands for who had what LR model, as he finished listed them off he turned to my mate and said my mate hadn't put his hand up and my mate said he'd not listed his model of the Disco V8 to which the LR chap shaked my mate's hand saying he was the first Disco V8 owner he'd meet. It was about 13 months old, under LR cover when it wouldn't start, the reason a speak of crud on the battery post terminal and/or battery post clamp, luckily in those days the breakdown employees where incentivised to sell a new battery unnecessarily. Crud cleaned off and IIRC the battery remained on the Disco for a number of years later when the Disco was sold on.

On a very modern VW like a Škoda even with a new battery leaving it for a month or a few months will do the battery some harm, even if the battery is new it's still just a power store that depletes and given enough it will effect its life if only a little. A reason why I fully charge a brand new battery before I fit it to the car, hopefully it doesn't take much to get it fully charged (and if it is fully charged great it only takes seconds). If left for a month or a few months the car may well start, and start well, and the lights seem bright enough but the battery has been affected by being left on the car without a battery charger maintainer connected. Left long enough a used battery may not fully recharge, it will charge but not to full on the charger. I've had this twice this year with neighbour's cars, one was a less than 3 year old car, the other older but without start/stop, this one even though the battery had the "water" (electrolyte) level in each cell were fine and I was able to do a quick visual check on the plates in each cell and they seemed fine. The batteries did recharge, but not to full, and where usable on the cars, still just parked up but I'd not trust either on a a very modern VW car like a Škoda.

It might be on 'Škoda Recall Campaigns'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns You can also check for more major recalls on the bottom of the 'Check the MOT history of a vehicle' result page. - https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Hi, welcome. All of those things need sorting by the Škoda main dealer you bought the car from the burning smell particularly doesn't sound good you want that looked at (and sorted) ASAP. The (to me PITA) lane "assist" I don't know on your car but a green symbol usually means you have the system turned on, AFAIK on amber lines means you have crossed a line or the computers think you have, or you are close to a white line or other object or the computer thinks you are, never fully trust these systems they can be unreliable and often like a very nervous passenger or very inexperienced driver only these systems when switched on actually start grabbing at the wheel and interfering with your driving. You have certainly done the right thing by reading the Owner's Manual but yes some of the information is a little confusing, I never bother with the Škoda videos as the few I've seen don't seem that instructive to me. It is very important on modern cars that the car battery is in a good state of charge (and health) as the computers don't like a battery that is in a low state of charge and that can be well before the engine takes a bit more effort to start or any warning messages or lights so I would suggest you get the Dealership to check and report on your battery and replace if required. If the battery isn't replaced then I suggest you have an appropriate battery charger maintainer, read the instructions in the Owner's Manual and fully recharge the battery when required or better still do a preventive full recharge when required. Just one example of a charger, low and slow is best so 4-amp (or less). - Ring RSC 904 - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC904 A 2020 car may be low milage from the periods of covid lock down which didn't help car (or their batteries) but if your Karoq continued to be little used and/or lots of short and/or infrequent journeys then sat with the Dealership there could be other items suffering from this lack of use that need sorting and only appear with more use of the car. Whatever the mileage and use it needs the full time and/or mileage servicing and maintenance, a low mileage car needs proportionately more servicing and maintenance in some respects than average or high mileage. And servicing now is quite limited, basically an engine oil and filter change and a look for chargeable work and maintenance of some items far too stretched or missing IMO. Do not expect that the Dealership has fully checked the car properly and make sure it is up to date with any recalls and software updates. To conclude, for info on the lane "assist" and lots more info about the Karoq you are best looking at and asking in the 'Skoda Karoq' forum, you'll also get a more cheery attitude as I'm not a VW fan but hopefully all there will also be honest and know about any issues with the car and (some?) Dealerships. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/364-skoda-karoq/ More details on your name badge(?) might also help, as an example mine.- HTH. Good luck.

More information is needed as it could be for a few different reasons, a video of not starting might help or info on if it's a cranking or engine starting issue. I forget have you serviced the car, for this things like engine air filter, spark plugs, (oil & filter) checked the electrics from battery onwards, ETA: including ignition system, that all connections and wires are clean, secure and protected and that parts are fully working properly, then on to fuel supply (and perhaps quality?) from tank to cylinders.

-What to consider if the brake drums might be worn and there are crap old car parts around. Don't start a pile on. Yeap that table answers R_U_AFA's question which I didn't know and couldn't find on a quick search so asked for, and you have provided it. All's well that ends well.