Former

This is overridden by the program of locking the car, I checked twice that the (manually) switched on map lights went out when the car was locked using the remote keyfob. The computer programs do have their uses and can get somethings right - but too many uses and too few useful in my miserable, moany, old-farts opinion. The battery will discharge a bit but hopefully not enough to cause any issues and it won't have anything to do with the map lights so OldKaroq can continue with peace of mind and sound sleep. 😌

Assuming the site has correct info it shows 2019 Fabias as - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/ Bolt Pattern (PCD): 5x100 Center Bore / Hub Bore: 57.1 mm Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 Which is the same as my wife's 2015 Fabia. If you're getting an actual spare 'get-you-home' wheel (and) kit then I recommend also adding in to it two of these wheel alignment guide tool, mount hanger bolts/studs to make roadside, or at home, wheel changes easier and less injurious to your back (cos of them bl**dy stupid wheel bolts instead of studs). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334375280678 Don't let your daughter be like most drivers and have the spare below correct inflation for use (or flat) by having her check its pressure regularly same as for the other four tyres.

Just checked with my wife's 2015 Fabia and can confirm previous findings. the map lights will remain on after opening the car again as their switches are locked on, requiring only a push of each switch to turn them off again.

The following isn't to say too late now but to help for the future. You put you turn the start/stop off and that it was noticeable that the starting hasn't It hasn't turned over as quickly just recently - that was your warning, don't wait for lights or messages, and don't take too much notice of the battery "magic eye" or ball (I think they only work on one out of the six cells anyway?) putting the battery on a long, low. slow charge with an appropriate battery charger maintainer then may have recovered it enough for a bit more more useful life. Appropriate use of an appropriate charger maintainer for preventive charges previously may have extended the useful battery life even further and when necessary could extend the useful life of the new battery, bear in mind the alternator and car are no longer new as they originally were for the previous battery. I go with best to 'code' the battery just to be sure but don't panic about it being done absolutely at point of new battery installation. I would fit the new battery and immediately fully charge it (won't take long if the new battery is well charged, ready to fit doesn't always /usually(?) mean fully charged) with an appropriate battery charger maintainer reading and following the advice in the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger instructions that way the car's computer program can see the battery has ben charged to full so might then know, even if not told by 'coding' that the battery is new, that the battery is fully charged and not on its arse as before. After you fitted and fully charged the new battery start the car, with the engine running turn the steering wheel to full lock both ways, put the lights and air-con on, to my mind this will tell the computers the car can cope with the electrical load so battery (alternator) are up to snuff so it can rest it's little mind. I might be wrong with this and it's unnecessary but it's all quick, easy, virtually free of cost and you're out of the elements and not getting your hands dirty so best type of car work to try. Another bit of info you also might or might not be interested in, to save virtual space and virtual ink you can put direct hyperlink to eBay items by just putting up to the end of the item (itm) number, e.g. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254879881479 Terminal type looks OK to me, see "Compare terminal type" here. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/tutorials/how-to-choose-a-car-battery The Hankook 60AH SE56010 is 560 CCA (EN) according to their catalogue (page 21). - https://cdn.hankook-atlasbx.com/PRD/CUSTOMER/20210817/4e4fbc9f-6367-4134-ba7c-a3e33e1e31ca/HANKOOK_GLOBAL_C.pdf Moll batteries IIRC(?) were rated at CCA EN(?). CCA and EN Ratings on Car Batteries Explained - https://growenergy.com.au/news/15616-cca-en-ratings-car-batteries VAarta Blue Dynamic EFB 12v 60Ah (560500064) (027 EFB) is 640 CCA (EN) - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Varta N60 Blue Dynamic EFB 560 500 064 Data Sheet.pdf HTH.

The possibles are sensor(s} error/fault and/or part(s)s fault((s) and/or programing errors. Any VWSkoda program updates on your model/VIN? In that case does the VCDS do live recordings graphs of the temperature sensors, intake-air temperature seems a good one to look at along with perhaps coolant sensors, air pressure Could be a single thing or perhaps combination that the computer programs are trying to correct for (or perhaps messing up). Have a look at and note your oil temperature reading when your your "water" temperature gauge needle(?) just gets to 90 and again later look at and note your oil temperature reading as the "water" needle remains at 90. At over 100,00-miles you will want things like sensors and throttle body reasonably clean physically and electronically for the computer programs to be functioning well from the info given to them. IIRC with my neighbour's DIY/semi-professional/professional scan tool there were 638(?) data points for the engine on my wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI. Again I am out of ideas - and sorry for repeating stuff as I didn't read the old posts before.

Sorry missed that jumping from page 1 to 2 - there is a pin shown for Moscow though! Unfortunately none showing in Poland.

My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 had a VWSkoda UK Recall done in August 2018, 97CU - AFAIK "Technical background - For Škoda vehicles of a certain production period the energy management of the vehicle battery has been optimised. Remedy - On the affected vehicles the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed (see criterions)." I (prematurely to save hassle) fitted an AGM battery to my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 in December 2021 and a Biskoda member 'coded'; it for me and since then I've found it best to do preventative fully recharging with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, and more often than I'd expected, as the car does only short journeys most days. I find Halfords to be usually expensive for car batteries plus they sometimes have their own numbering system for the batteries that doesn't match other numbering systems and from what I've read on this site their 'coding' practices seem variable and unreliable. Many EFB batteries that I've noticed have a 4 year warranty and AGM 5 years but a good battery is a good battery regardless of numbers (Ah, cranking, warranty). I and others on here use Tayna for car batteries - many other suppliers are available though, the choice is always with you. -https://www.tayna.co.uk/ A friend has a couple of identical Ctek expensive chargers yet they vary a little to each other in use and performance so I'm personally not impressed with Ctek as I know others that get perfectly good performance from the likes of Lidl £15 "smart" start/stop chargers and maintainers. I personal went for a £23 Ring (4-amp) "smart" charger and maintainer and have found it fine in use on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 and neighbours cars (with and with out start/stop batteries). Model now changed to Ring 900, probably available from other than Ring at lower price). - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html

Another idea - is this with higher electrical loads like air-con on, turning steering wheel, others, does your start/stop always work when it should or do you get messages or warning lights - have you checked the state of charge of your battery at the battery terminal posts a good few hours after last driving the car? For checking the checking the throttle body setting you might find someone on the following list near you able to help you with this or a report, some for free or beer tokens others perhaps as part of a professional service so at some other charge. -Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Many apologises, I'm not the best at reading posts at the best of times but yesterday (now) for some reason I got out of bed not knowing my arse from my elbow and it remained all day, I hope it's the start of a cold or just an off-day. Thanks for reporting back and well done on finding the problem and solving it.

More rubbish now deleted.

Hi welcome. A load of rubbish, even worse than usual - now deleted.

@simonba you may have already done so but in case not, have you checked the Owner';s Manual.

If it wasn't easy I would not be able to do it, I'm no mechanic (although like most of us I can sometimes do a better job than some professional mechanics). Your car and gearbox may well be different from my wife's 2015 Fabia but the principles would be the same if yours is a 5-speed manual (not DSG). The PITA was the plastic cover under the engine, I had to put the car on breeze blocks (95mm high) to lift it the car so I could reasonably comfortably get under there and remove all the torx screws (T25 IIRC) that hold the cover on. Once the plastic cover is removed there was enough room to get at the gearbox fill/level and drain plugs. On this gearbox (PED 02T) the fill and drain plugs weren't at a big difference in their level on the box and the fill plug was a bit of play to get a tool at and undo, not difficult just a bit awkward as Sod's Law whatever I had available wasn't ideal length but could be done. IIRC the plug fitting was something annoying like a H7 not in my tools so borrowed. When I had a look to see what tools I would need and check I could loosen the fill plug and remove it (cold box and oil) I took the fill plug out a little and had a fair run of oil which suggested to me that perhaps the box was overfilled when fitted/delivered to factory I don't know if that is the case or the case for all but the car needs to be level for refilling (unless you lift the car higher one side and overfill again). Filling was best done for with the help of my (reluctant) "glamorous assistant" hold a funnel with a length hose attached in the engine bay to slowly pour the fresh oil in for refill whilst I laid under the car making sure the other end of the hose remained at the edge of the filler hole and to shout stop when the oil overflowed out of the filler hole. Of course you could use other methods. As I couldn't turn the gears in the gearbox to check oil fill level again I put the fill plug back in and went for a quick short drive leaving the plastic cover off and breeze blocks in place. I had a mug of tea and done some better stuff than farting about with cars (that's a lot of other things for me) to make sure gearbox and oil are cold to check level, look for leaks before I put the plastic cover back on and tidy up, clean the tools and put them away. I always take a lot of time on these jobs I never go at any pace other than slowly, I couldn't care less about any macho rubbish about how quick someone else can do the job (the usually exaggerate and don't allow for setting everything up, checking work and putting everything away anyway). I also allow time for teas and pees and getting distracted by doing more interesting stuff. I used to get neighbours ask what I was doing but they soon learnt that if I was working on our cars I was best left alone (yet I don't mind working on neighbours cars and stopping for a chat as I volunteer for those jobs). There, much more than you needed or wanted to know, and without telling you much. 😄

@dorix thanks for reporting back. So often is the battery, despite many still not accepting the possibility, but it also shows it is best always to start with the basics before moving on, in fact you usually cannot successfully carry out further diagnostics without first checking the basics. Some unscrupulous tradesmen rely on the basics not being checked to make money out of stuff owners could do for themselves (if the owner wants to that is). Nice easy fix is to fully recharge the battery but if you have left it too late then a new battery and something learnt for the future to prevent it happening again. Goods luck. .

Well, you left me guessing. Short posts are great but only if they convey the information, as is obvious I don't do ****ter or FaceAche style of posts and being old easily confused. Perhaps you and I just don't gel, no one's fault it's just how things can be, I can bow out, wish you the best and leave you to more suitable others. Perhaps you want to ignore the basics and go on to the sexy 'coding' stuff , or if you've made a mistake with 'coding' I'll know nothing about it or be able to help you but others can, in which case you may want to have a look at and perhaps post in 'Diagnostics & VCDS'. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ If not - Bulb has been checked - how? Has the bulb been put in another part of the light cluster or in the light cluster on the other side where the bulbs there are known to work? ...and the answer to above is? Is the bottom nearside light position for rear side light only? .... answer to above is - yes, no and maybe, depends on 'function and 'coding'. Is that position on the RHS light cluster also for rear fog light? ... answer to above is - yes it can be if 'coded' for such Is the bulb in that position (on LHS) marked up for W5W (5w, capless (501) or P21/5 (21w/5w, offset bayonet (380) or other? ... and the answer to above is? Have you checked live and earth at the LHS bottom bulb holder part of the LHS cluster? ... and the answer to the above is?

Talk about turnaround - Volvo and SAAB when they actually truly used to design and build them were very good cars a league above the likes of VAG products how sad you have to put up with their inferior products in your country in place of your previously own products. Hopefully you might be too young to know the previous large difference in design and build quality between them. to be too disheartened by the modern offerings. The Skoda manuals on their website for manuals shows they have gone from downloadable pdfs of the original paper printed copies to digital versions that tell you even less than the previous versions and VW hold back information other manufacturers freely give like capacities and oil mutigrades to instead insist on their number systems which they (like other) change overtime as things progress and VW change specifications (a cynic might suggest for previous mistakes). Digital versions of the printed paper manuals do have some advantages and some disadvantages and it is often best to have copies of digital files (such as a paper printed book that does not rely on battery power and can be easily viewed in daylight and on sunny days). VWSkoda Owner's Manuals website with free downloadable pdf versions of printed paper version of the Owner's Manual for earlier cars (when the website is working). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Modern public car owners want information immediately when they want it and not a second before so Google for video for things like how find the fuel filling flap so things like preparation and looking in an index or at paper printed pages is far too slow and requires a small amount of thought which they do not have the time for. For many reasons it is to the car manufacturers advantage that the customers do only the driving and less and less of that. Many years back the set up of the public buying and owning a car was outdated and not the best business model for car manufacturers but that is a whole new other topic . . . 🙃

AfAIK in the UK the LHS fog light isn't usually enable from factory. So if the bulb is a P21/5 (21w/5w, offset bayonet (380 have you put the bulb in opposite way round with the offset pins on the wrong side?

Well some engineers and mechanics will tell you that it is a waste of time and money to change the transmission oil as it will last the life of the car, that is correct it is just a matter of if you believe that the oil, and the additive package with the oil, remain good enough throughout that whole time of the car. Personally, and there is evidence, I see/believe that that fresh oil will be better as it will be overall less worn (for want of a better word) but people, as with other matters, can have strong believe on this either way and debating oil beliefs is endless. VW makes no recommendations for the change so to me a reasonable idea would be say 5 years or 100,000 km but 6 years or 120,000 km would also be fine or perhaps sooner or later than both figures as it depends on a number of variables with use and style of driving. I personally have changed transmission oil oils on a number of vehicles I have owned and driven and felt a benefit but some say it is placebo (i am fooling myself) or I believe the marketing of oil companies (well I am far too old and jaded for that now). I never intended doing anything on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 and for personal reasons only started when it was 5.5 years old and had 38k-miles (61,000km) with a gearbox oil change. I have also changed the coolant but think that could have waited until the car was 10 years old, but hopefully we would have shot of it by then. If you change the oil you want to check first that you get the right oil and that you can get at and loosen the fill/level plug - you don't want to take the drain plug out and then find you cannot get the fill plug out. Best to get the transmission oil hot or warm (usual cautions here) and remove the fill plug to ease flow and volume and leave to drain for as long as practical to get as much of the old oil out so as much fresh new oil can go in. There will always be some residue of old oil left in you are just trying to reduce this amount of residue. I personally at the end of the drain pour some warmed (solar gain or oil bottle in hot water) fresh new oil into the transmission with the drain plug still out to act as a sort of little end flush/rinse and again let that fully drain for as long as practical. I have no idea what a "longlife" service is other than perhaps a delayed engine oil change, most Dealership/garage servicing is just an engine oil & filter change and a look for other chargeable work and does not cover the whole car really, the engine is not one of the most important things on a car that needs attention though it does need attention. Priorities are BRAKES, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, etc.) and windows and mirrors (see and be seen). Long post, but I hope that helps.

I'm a big fan of direct wiring from the car's battery (clamp) posts for testing items, one or both, for clean live and earth (subject to testing this supply before use) - you can get those probes that do this too but I could never get my head around them. For my Midget I had a long twin lead and a load of various terminal tails for direct connects as much as possible and a bulb, switch and fuse on one where it could be used for a yes / no / and an idea of how bright that inline test bulb gets. But nothing beats using all of the actual parts in situ for testing or confirming where you can. Slightly easier wiring on a 1973 MG Midget than a modern car or jet fighter though. 😄 Time before last when I had to fit a rear bulb to my wife's 2015 Fabia I forgot my own advice and only thought about testing the bulb or its fitted operation until I'd finished fitting the (one) screw and stood back, called my wife out to test this brake light and guess what - of course Sod's Law applied the new bulb didn't illuminate. 7 year old shed stock, duff new bulb (when bought) and I'd given away or fitted to my neighbours' cars all of the rest of my stock of that bulb and I had to got to Halfords and could only get 25% longer life. Do as i say not as I do. 😄

No worries, you replied honestly, I was in the wrong. And there's no problem with disagreeing, debating, arguing or agreeing to disagree, all best dome without falling out or at least being able to move on from it and perhaps being able to accept or perhaps agree something else after, and personally I think if there can be a bit of good humour either way or better still both ways it's some positive at least. I have plenty of car experiences and a little knowledge, much of it often forgotten or I mix up and I wish I could be smart at explaining most times I'm not but I am working at a level just above someone new to things so can often understand what might not be known and cover things that others who know more might miss or have forgotten about because it's so obvious to them. Even then i sometimes forget my own basic advices and someone adds what i've missed on the basics. My hobbyhorse is the car's (nominal) 12v battery and how important it is for the battery not to be allowed to get into a low or very low state of charge particularly on a modern car and with stop/start and that preventative use of an appropriate battery charger when required will help the expensive battery to a longer and better performing life and help prevent all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and car issues even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. A good state of charge also helps with diagnostics off starting or electrical issues whereas a low state of charge could hinder or even prevent proper diagnosis. Oh, and the other thing I bang on about is that it's not illegal in anyway for men to read instructions before use, during use and as help with issues, in particular the Owner's Manual, reading it can help prevent having to go to a mechanic or garage for some car issues, and prevent issues. That's me totally depleted of modern car knowledge . . . opinions, I'm endless, my mate said everyone's entitled to my opinion - whether they want it or not. 😄 Cheers.

Ok, need to review and check what's' been checked and how I've had internment bulbs and even fuse so it can be a case of checking and rechecking what's been checked and recheck results. I've know new bulbs not work straight out of the packaging (and one be intermittent), standard modern made bulbs can be of very low quality I always suggest going for the X2 (double lifespan) or special order pick up next day or so X3 life (treble lifespan) from Halfords or elsewhere. So please bear with me. Car - Skoda Octavia Mk3 2014 Tdi Elegance - nearside rear light bottom bulb doesn't illuminate. First what is the LHS (nearside) bottom bulb supposed to light up for sidelight or fog light - if fog light the foglight only illuminates on the RHS from factory - if suidelight carry on with questions below. Put your headlights on and the rear fog light on to check positioning of fog light. Have the ignition on and check position of rear brake light by getting someoine to press the pedal or wedge it with a stick (against drivers seat and move seat to a forward position to press the pedal enough, have something to stop the end of the stick damaging the seat hardback book, cutting board, ect.). Bulb has been checked - how? Has the bulb been put in another part of the light cluster or in the light cluster on the other side where the bulbs there are known to work? Is the bottom nearside light position for rear sidelight only? Is that position on the RHS light cluster also for rear fog light? Is the bulb in that position (on LHS) marked up for W5W (5w, capless (501) or P21/5 (21w/5w, offset bayonet (380) or other? Have you checked live and earth at the LHS bottom bulb holder part of the LHS cluster? Whatever test equipment you are using did you check it was working properly before using the tester for testing?

I use waterless wash and wax (and a couple of microfibre clothes (which have to be washed (but fabric conditioner not used) at some point so not entirely waterless) over the rear window, (wiper arm and blade if fitted) high level brake lights, rear lights and number plate. Rarely can I be arsed to clean the paint on the hatch door of my wife's Fabia as I had enough farting about cleaning cars to last me my lifetime. I also clean the front and wing lights, front number plate too - and sometimes the door glasses and door mirrors too, rarely the body paintwork. See and be seen. None of this takes long and can be done in whatever stages whenever wanted or needed, just doing the front and rear lights and number plates makes the car look cleaner if that sort of thing is of the slightest worry.

Yeah sorry about that I can see it, considered it but still went with it given the handle which I thought/hoped was ironic, I put my hands up it was a mistake which I couldn't edit with a strike-thorough on text left to show the mistake. Which is another point, i make lots of mistakes but no longer worry about it now given how forums go. At one time I used to start all my posts with I'm not a mechanic or expert in anything on every post but that annoyed some and It was suggested that it wasn't needed on these forums. I do sometimes struggle with words, spellings and meanings so throw in non-specific words that annoy the more technical but as long as most get the jist of what I mean I don't worry. Yeah that fine but also others reduce the wheel size, increasing the size of the sidewall because of our 3rd-world roads and for more comfort. Buying your bigger wheels s/h gives you more scope perhaps to recover some of the cost by selling back o IF you find the same as some others - which of course you might not and like the wheels and tyres, and the combination of which tyres to wheels, and the way they ride, only you can know that for yourself. There's lots of info on this forum and on the site generally and from those that the the subject and express it a lot better than me. You can always ask questions but it's difficult to ask about you're not aware of or not fully aware of so I tend to give wider answers than the quick specific answers as I take it if anyone just wants the quick short answer they won't bother with what I put which is far enough and they may weell already know what I've added and more and better about it but often that can't be known and I consider the very many viewers only as well as the posters. I unusually suggest with many things that the poster also look at the forum for their particular model as other owners may have already taken the same route or know about it if questions are posted on that forum. Good luck, whatever you decide and do a report back after an appropriate time of use can help others looking at the same sort of thing. Cheers.

Yes they were coping some motorsports cars of the time I think same way as had their road cars with seat very low so many of them could barely see over the dash out of fashion rather than sporting need on a car already overweight (like the some/most of the VW offererings) and then installing loads of other weight for mods and must been seen-with fittings. Just because it was something on a car in a magazine didn't always mean it was strictly, or loosely, road legal, note than cover doesn't look like it's on a UK road (perhaps I'm wrong) start of the "show" number plates, plates with wrong character spacing to try to say something, wrong, fonts, and colours and types and plate that "couldn't" be picked up on cameras. 😄 Not all but many were just youngsters rebelling, with the use of their parents money often, and the attitudes of the boys and girls expressed in the magazine weren't the highest. Some had fabulous cars many didn't. My mate was on a suppliers stand at the NEC for a Max Power show and he said it was rammed all prices for parking and programs and everything else were higher than other shows (particularly the old-farts "classic" car shows there) yet the show goes were happy with the costs, he said many in their early middle and late 20s spending their patents money happily, He said their was a stall selling gold necklace chain off the reel. 😆 Took me ages to work out what "pink or brown" might mean and I daren't ask.

Sorry, mate, didn't think you'd be so thin skinned using such a handle I thought you'd have more self awareness, irony, humour. You'll note Carlston has also given you info and hints on 16" wheels. On the forum(s) you'll find I do give lots of advice and next paragraph some for you, if you want it, you may not and that's fair enough but please don't take offence (I can't know what you know or not on a subject) - but if you want take the gate and whole garden too, if you want to, and you can dress yourself and your car however you want I don't mind. Being old does mean I've driven a few cars over the decades so at least have some experience as well as been through (and seen return) loads of fashions, though the fashion for oversized wheels and tyres has continued for a few decades now, and I've no idea of male or female dressing fashions. 😄 Tyres are a very important and complex component on the car, over one or two sizes their grip and handling has less to do with their size and much more to do with their design, build, compounds, make and model, Sizes are nominal so all comparisons about sizes are slightly general, some tyres are wider than others of the same size and some will fit the wheel differently to another of the same size. Comparisons sites and calculators only take you so far and should be used as a general guide and all sources of information generally have errors and omissions including manufacturers and bloke on the internet like me and others so always check any information if possible with one or two other reliable sources. Written by a sometimes very macho man but I'm glad to say generally I'm not because of all the negatives it brings with it - and low heels wearer even tho' Im short. 😄