Former

I don't know but think it unlikely the ignition and door keys weren't the same from factory. For synchronising from 2007 Octavia 'Owner's Manual' (it was the same but different wording).

sorry wrong book

Have a look in the 'Owner's Manual' for synchronising and lots more useful info, even what's needed when putting the battery in the fob varies with models/years sometimes. If you've not got the paper printed copy you can get a free pdf VWSkoda download from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Despite what some men might tell you it's not sissy to read instruction manuals and is a very good idea with cars, load of info you need is in them. PS It's very easy and quick to do.

I saw my mate and my old 1973 (year) Midget yesterday, he has it looking and going better than I did, I notice when the bonnet was lifted that he had put DoT 5 silicone fluid in the brakes and clutch systems. He said he did not clean the brake system (clutch system was apart and new piping) he just did the usual (Gunson) Eezibleed with the new silicone fluid pushing out and replacing the old DoT 4. No problems with brakes or clutch. Still no problems from putting DoT 5 silicone in his 1970 (year) "classic" 25+ years ago. Both cars use similar brake parts as the Foreman.

Roy, you might be better posting in the 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)' section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ Or, just my non-technical, non-expert guesses . Anything to do with damp or moisture perhaps on wires or connector(s) perhaps or (from my looking for Topdon error code) loose, damp or aged relay perhaps. Is your Topdon a code reader or scan tool and is it suited to VW and fully Updated. Ross-Tech 01314 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01314 Do you mean traction/stability control?

The noise at the start was just before the starter motor but I couldn't say what it was, on listening again it sounds different to first time I listened and Tony Hadley was distracting me after (I'm of that age), If you don't get a good amount of charge into the battery when it's low you can have it going over and under the threshold with use so it's just enough and then not enough. Driving the car the alternator will be helping the battery so any reading taken then could be higher than after the car has been parked up for a few hours so a better test is to try starting the engine then and see if it's fine. Even if you had a fully charged brand new battery you might still have fault(s) with that shifter and you'd said the engine sounds very throaty so there might be a fault or faults there all may be easily solvable but if the Dealership, if required, isn't sorting them that's no god to you. I think you're going to have to get a bit more forceful with them and press your rights as a buyer. If you're in a a motoring organisation you could perhaps ask them, or if you have the car through finance contact them, the Dealerships make their profit from finance they have to keep on the straight and narrow with finance now. You may have a very good car but if not you want to return it, get shot or get it fully sorted ASAP as you don't want to put good money after bad. I can tell you from expensive personal experiences that you want to cut any losses a lot sooner than later.

For reference a new battery fully charged can be anything from 12.7V to 12.9V, Skoda like you to keep above 12.3V.

One thing that never helps is if the car battery is too low for the computer programs, doesn't matter if the exterior lights seem bright and the engine starts battery could still be too low. However, there was a graunch I think at the very start of the video was that anything to do with starting the engine. Couldn't tell as the music was on, and the air-con blower on, are you a heavy battery electric consumer. Even if not causing the faults low battery might be contributing to the mayhem. If you have a scan tool suitable to VW cars then you could see what codes might be on the car and perhaps live data. Take a reading of the car battery at it's posts with a multimeter, about a couple hours or more after it's been parked up, if you get about below 12.1V (allowing 0.2V below 12.3V as being used by woken/not asleep stuff) then consider driving the car with minimal electric battery consumption or better still top up the battery charge with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer. Fully recharged would be best not using a quick charger so it will take many hours but can be done in stages if needed. Before taking a reading you could check that the battery terminal post clamps are tight and that the earth lead to body is tight and per haps put up a landscape photo of the battery, and its fittings, to see if the battery has been swapped and a good one fitted. Battery is relatively easy, quick and very low cost to check (and charge up) so worth getting out of the way.

Hi, welcome. I've just posted for a 2015 car same as my wife's, I'm not sure if it'll be the same for your car but have a look, a guide I put up from my wife's 2015. Windscreen wipers don't turn off / come on by themselves (Fabia Mk3)

As my wife's car is also a 2015 have a look at a guide I put up and see if it might apply to your issue. - Windscreen wipers don't turn off / come on by themselves (Fabia Mk3) -

I'd not be in a rush to buy modern made rubber hoses as they can sometimes be low, very low or abysmal quality. If you can get a set of preformed silicone hoses then yes, I'd take off a few of the easy to get at hoses that just requires the coolant level to be dropped a bit and inspect them internally and externally and if they look good they'd stay for me. Obviously if you see any of the others damaged or aged externally they may need changing at greater priority. Unless there's a particular problem with trapped air on the Estelles I'd not worry about a vacuum bled I've just read and followed what's in various Handbooks for old cars (called "classics") and never had any problems. Others have used other systems and had issues mainly I think by not reading the instructions and requirements in the Handbooks and I've never had to leave the cap off or pump a main hose just draining (or syphoning if partial) and steady refills following the book (or "bible" as others joked when I always suggested its use). Same with brakes and hydraulic clutch flushes and bleeds I just use gravity (or push-pedal if in more of a hurry) and one-man-one-jar method and never had problems whereas those using other methods seem to get issues - I suspect because they're in more of a rush. I must admit the idea of drawing the air and fluid up to the highest point did appeal but I never bothered as I'd still got the jars and hoses. It's not that I'm any good at mechanics, the very opposite, but allow lots and lots of time to myself and don't need to prove how fast I can do the job to impress others, but I have made stupid mistakes by being careless, easily resolved but reminded me that I was not as thorough as I thought I was or used to be. I generally loathe working on my own car, or my wife's, but I'm a cheaper idiot than many of the professionals and specialist I've paid lots of money to previously. Most servicing and maintenance boils down to cleaning and lubricating, if you take your time and care you can often do a thorough job with good results. These are very simple cars generally you don't need any special equipment think how basic things might have been for owners in other countries. I used garden hose and buckets for flush, back-flush and flush again, off-cut hose and bungs or cloths and my lungs to evacuate residue from various parts of the cooling/heating system once down to open-ended areas (careful not to hyperventilated). If you want to use a vacuum for emptying, and containing to inspected and safe disposal fine but unless you know different it should not be for worry of bleeding.

No problem. There is so much more info in the Owner's Manual than most realise Sometimes it isn't well written (Skoda) but I've solved problems for others by just following what's in the handbook of various makes and models of cars.

If you find the engine number it might confirm if the engine is the original. If it has a stamped plate with the engine number it can be transferred but often will have the wrong. Another reason for not going strictly by even the Owner's Handbook if you think you're setting the original engine and it's been swapped out with a different engine with different settings. And of course how things were set for a new engine in 1990 will be different to now as it's used and patrols and oils are different. Not being used sine 2021 it could have a lot of airborne debris in the engine bay, you've took the air filter out so that should give you a clue when compared against a brand new one, the rough idle might be a minor clean and/or tweak of the carb but I'd still do a service of the engine and set up before the carb (as it's last in the chain) even if the engine oil looks clean on the dipstick. I also like to do a whole coolant/heating system clean, flush, back-flush, flush and refill, including engine block drain and heating matrix as soon as practical as unnecessary engine heat can cause other issues or upset other systems from best running. Also to see the state of the coolant from the rad, engine block and matrix which can give clues to how well things might be internally. When convenient, like when installing new parts or summer warmer drier weather, I do a more thorough cleaning to include removing the rad, hoses, stat, and matrix and individual flushing off the car. I only do it once then just thorough coolant changes. On the MGs replacing heaterbox seals can mean the heat actually makes it to the cabin and the cabin gets hot (or warmish for MGBs in winter) too hot for Spridgets. Check the coolant system pressure cap as IIRC they could go and make you think it might be HGF.

Sorry I don't know what year a Mk3 facelift is but with my wife's 2015 as with a lot of other very useful information it's the Owner's Manual, under luggage compartment, fixing nets. You need to read and consult the Owner's Manual even for simple jobs you've been doing for decades to be sure you doing them as VW require. Tea now for me but I can post pics after if you need them, or you can find stuff here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Could the airbox be from another vehicle. If you have any papers for work done on the engine or cylinder head it might say if it was converted (hardened valve seat fitted) - if it was required anyway. Otherwise you can get additives that cover lead replacement and ethanol (and even with octane enhancement). Valvemaster range from the MG Owners Club and Millers VSPe Power Plus Multi Shot from Millers Oils and possibly others that I don't know about. Not unusual to find that only one or two people kept any history, you're lucky if you get the original Owner's Handbook and spare keys that came with the car new as these are the types of things that owners mislaid. If you have a Haynes workshop manual for the range and it doesn't match with what is in the Owner's Handbook (subject to that being correct for your car) always suspect the Haynes has it wrong as that is most likely. And the Haynes wont give you the useful information the original Owner's Handbook does but do bear in mind that was written over 30 years ago and oils and some parts have improved a lot since then (some modern made parts though are now crap). MoT history might give you some idea of what was being done to or with the car at the times but there can be a lot of personal opinion with Mot testers and the same advisories can come and go over the years. More important of course is how the car is now, if the car has been used since 2021 even more reason to carry out a staggered fully 36k-mile service/checks to build from a good base and datum point, if you do the work you know for certain what was done and when and how.

For Mk3 Superb Estate or Fabia Mk3 as you're in the Fabia Mk3 section.

Would the VW Polo because it carries the name badge have additional noise insulation as they never worry too much about their name badge cars' weights?

Borg & Beck are First Line, neither are always the finest parts available. - http://www.firstlineltd.com/ Sometimes they do the same part under both brands, not this time. - BCM123 - https://webcat.borgandbeck.com/PartDetails/BCM123/#partInfoBCM123

22k-miles in 6 years is low overall mileage which isn't always the very good thing some think it is, obviously it depends and I've no idea it could make your car marvellous. Lower mileage can often be more wear on some aspects of the car than higher mileage thus needing more servicing and maintenance and not less as many think but again I can't know with your car and 22k-miles isn't much unless the car has had a owners or users that are very hard on cars. I can think of no good reason why your 110 should much louder than my wife's 90 and even with poor insulation it wouldn't be enormously loud I'd guess, at least to me as my last car was very old and noisy and without soundproofing (but I did later put on sound deadening pads). Record the sound also with the bonnet up and inside the cabin with and without bonnet up. Comparing with another same model is a good idea but I don't think it's necessary as I'm not a VW fan and often moan about the engine bay noises but I'd never say the engine and cabin noises are bad if anything they're pretty good. What gearbox do you have? Have you got the rear seats down and parcel shelf out? You could check to see if it's missed any (admitted) Recalls here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Perhaps ring the local Skoda Dealer and see if there are any more secretive items they check for your particular VIN. If you've been in an old van or lorry with the engine in the cabin you'd certainly know what loud is. 😄

Databases have errors and omissions even those from the parts or car manufacturers, these errors and omissions are copied and repeated and when databases are merged often more errors and omissions are added. Then parts get superseded and rationalised bringing in slight or complete mismatches and more errors and omissions. With tens or hundreds of thousands of parts on computer systems updates and corrections aren't kept up or even bothered with often. Then a new system is bought in . . . and guess wot 'appens. 😄

True but that's potentially instead of damaging their tyres. You may remember I think of a 70 profile tyre as the low profile option so most wheel and tyres on modern cars to me are too big, over-wide and too low profile for their needs, it's just fashion. There's been nothing to say the OP's mum is that sort of a bad driver. I saw an Audi, fashionable wheels and tyres on, hit and ride over kerb where I was about to walk let his mate's out and as I walked passed I heard hissing as the tyre deflated. I had no sympathy as there were plenty of places he could have parked on the road and he approached the kerb at greater speed than needed or sensible for the unnecessary manoeuvre - but obviously he had to as he was the driver of a black Audi.

I'm not a fan of these over complex computer programs. If the fault has gone good but I'd not rely on that. My number one thing and I presumed you'd seen it is car battery too low in charge for the computer programs, that's not any signs of trouble with starting the car or lights not bright enough or even warning lights and messages. Sometimes driving the car and/or less use of the very many electric items on a 2019 car can take the battery back over the computer satisfying threshold but much more driving or a session on a suitable battery charger is often needed to stop another reoccurrence too soon. Test your battery at its terminal posts a good few hours after the engine was last run if you get less than say 12.2V or 12.3V (allowing say about 0.2V drop if the car's computers are still active whilst the car is a rest) then either a good run without using much of the electrics on the car or better still a full top up charger with an appropriate charger maintainer. Other thing is that all electric connections are secure, battery post clamps and main earth connections on (also helps if they're clean too). My wife's car registered misfires after I disconnected and reconnected the previous battery, never had any since. I also think if you have a scan tool or code reader that delete the error codes fully that can help, less for you and the car to be concerned over. Let us know how you get on.

Not if the wheels are the same size, width, offset, same (stupid) wheel bolt hole spacing, it's just appearance. 15" Mato was standard fit to my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 SE and optional on the 'S' trim level. It sounds like your mum had an accident rather than is really that bad at parking kerbside, if she really is that bad then you might want to notify SpecSavers or the DVLA, but if not no need to waste on wider tyres. Have you tried scrap yards or vehicle dismantler and auto recyclers (I assume, might be wrong, they can sell wheels).

Not as on my wife's 2015 1.2TSI 90 hatch. Engine bay gives lots of different noises at different times but I think that's the computer programs doing their thing (interfering) often. What is the history of the car, how many engine oil & filter changes, spark plugs, engine air filter, and any much more important work on brakes, steering and suspension, all three include tyres. How many miles on the engine? Are you sure it's not wheel bearing or tyre noise? Have you checked the tyres? Is the noise only at the revs the turbo would be active? Are you sure it's not exhaust, has the exhaust or car been chav'd /"improved" at all? Exhaust shield loose? Can you do a video / audio of the noise? That's me out of ideas.

If the battery doesn't get a little warm from charging then it might not be charging enough, but if you only want to the battery to start the car and get the car on to whatever's taking it away you only need sufficient for that. 8v wasn't that low compared with the last two batteries I saw but some modern chargers need fooling if the battery is below 10.5V, others at 7-something volts IIRC (which is always doubtful). I think you might be a bit over-cautious with the charger's maximum voltage for the job in hand but I'm sure you'll get there, I'd be low and slow on the amps and have some reserve in the battery in case for whatever reason the car doesn't start well or there's a shuffle to load it or they turn up a day or two late for collection, Sod's Law always seems to apply when least convenient.