nta16

You have the car, clips and panel so would know better than I as I'm only guessing really. If you say there's a full flange rather than tangs then that's it as I can't find the clips to look at on a Google search. Someone with access to ETKA may be able to put up an image showing the clips which may or may not show detail of the clip but at least there would be a part number to do more search on,, clips just brings up panel or other clips. This is why I'd try a Dealership parts department. I got a plastic "emergency" lock cover and another time a plastic seat handle from our (very) local Dealership for a lower price and quicker than ordering elsewhere. They can show you and even print off the relevant parts diagram.

@Dieselgate what did you decide to do about servicing in the end?

If the panel is difficult to get out then perhaps going to the Skoda Dealership parts department looking at the parts drawing and see what these clips parts look like and if they secure to anything out of sight, find the cost and availability of the clips and buy as required. Or as I put I might try to carefully prise the clip part out of the panel. Looks like possible this clip might have been glued already, image not high enough resolution for my eyes to tell. Good luck.

Never fully trust parts lists from such companies, they list parts for the various specs of the model and no doubt will contain errors. I don't know if the whole Karoq range have the same dampers and/or which other Skoda (or VW other brand) models may have those dampers. If there's a 'sports' version or other variant in a model range it may have different dampers to the others perhaps. The parts companies might note this type of thing. Easiest way is to Just start a new thread on there. On changing your front dampers to B6 if you can or do, if you notice difference then it could be the B6s to factory swap, the dampers being new, the dampers being new B6s, also depends on how bad or not your present front dampers are and same for the rear dampers wear. Then there might be a difference between B6 and factory dampers on the road even if the rear dampers were also new. I don't know how noticeable the difference would be having two or four B6s fitted (against 2 or 4 new factory) unless you were pushing things, or heavily loaded as seems the B6s speciality. The B6s may well give reliable service for longer than the factory dampers based on the experience with my wife's Fabia. You perhaps also need a Karoq Edition owner that has fitted two B6s to the front and drives and loads the car in the same way as you but even then it can be subjective. Depending on its age and model of your wife's BMW M Sport it could have a very complex suspension system (as you might discover if you need to do anything on it or the wheels or tyres) you should expect more from that suspension, if you haven't already you may find you pay for that complexity sometime in the future. Passats from what the owners have told me are particularly comfortable riding cars, saloons are lower and with a reasonable length wheelbase, Passat and BMW M Sport are different kettles of fish to modern SUV (or whatever the Karoq is classed as or called). See how you get on with the Karoq forum.

Use an appropriate charger and maintainer and follow the instruction in the car's Owner's Manual (especially if you have stop/start) and the instructions for the charger maintainer. Get it on charge ASAP (after checking terminals and connections) and use as low amps charge for as long as possible to fully charge the battery (as much as possible before tomorrow's visit), quick and fast won't be as good. If the battery is at a good charge and in good condition it won't take as long to get to full and you can leave it on maintain. If battery terminal and/or main earth connections are poor and/or the battery is in a very low state of charge (and perhaps condition) and you sort these things you might not need the auto-electrician but if it's other, as well or instead of, you will anyway or a full run of diagnosis and perhaps wires and connections wiggling (and perhaps heating and cooling). Or it might be pump or its relay or something left field perhaps. Good luck, let us know how you get on and what the final resolve is.

If you still have the broken bits you could try superglueing all back together or possibly(?) it looks like to me in your image that the whole clip piece might(?) come out of the inner boot panel(?) and possibly available as a replacement part/fitting(?). But I've no idea as I've never seen one. You might be able to prise them out using a suitable plastic tool or implement or careful use of a screwdriver and cloth so as not to scratch the plastic panel pattern. Or it might be easier to remove the whole plastic panel and see wot's wot - but again I don't know. For future car stuff photos, if taken in landscape they usually offer more frame information than in portrait (depends on shot of course) - possibly two clips in frame with landscape, a broken clip and other not broken, if possible.

In case the auto-electrician has yet to turn up. Generic codes relating possibly to fuel, clicking possibly the relay. A VW specific scan tool tool may give more info and if higher level more. Don't rely on the scan tool to always give the exact answer rather as a pointer to the area of issue and (another) diagnostic tool. Always check the basics though, are you battery terminals clean and battery terminal clamps clean and secure on the battery terminals, main and minor earth connections and wires clean, protected and secure. Any electric issues (if it is) and diagnostics best to have the car battery fully charged and not low or very low in charge.

Yeap, I can imagine that, on the Bilstein UK page presently the B6 drop down selections have Superb 2015-22 (not 2023) that's why I suggested contacting Bilstein UK, I realise they may not know of other similar VW models or apply the B6 to those models, or they might already be listed to those models, I didn't look as I don't know what those models are. I've been ordering some parts for customers, businesses and myself since the mid-1970s, car parts only for myself in more recent decades, using paper catalogue and previously microfiche, some wit the exact same manufactured part for the manufacture's different brands or same part for a different manufacturer(s) and all at different retail prices. The catalogues and other databases all had errors and omissions and these errors and omissions amplified as databases were taken over and combined and things aren't perfect still just because it's more digital and computers, manufacturers websites are often with errors, omissions and out of date.

Ian, as noted it's not against any law to read and refer to the Owner's Manual as they can give you a lot of information about your car and can sometimes save you a lot of time, effort and expense. Also sometimes the Skoda Dealerships sell items and parts at a reasonable or good price so it's worth asking there, I've no idea about that item though. @NottsIan just for info, might interest you or it might not, the eBay links can be shortened to just the end of the item (itm) number, as examples from above. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355381054670 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305364198984

As this is the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum that's what initially lead me to assume (always dangerous) that B6 might be some sort 'sport' (whatever that might mean) damper - I thought now I'd do a quick check on Bilstein UK website, and this is what it has. - "The BILSTEIN B6 shock absorber is the perfect solution if you require more dampening power and efficiency in your suspension setup, including under heavier loads; but don't require a full all-out sports model. BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are fully road-tested for road handling capability and endurance. The benefits of BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are: Increased power reserves and service life, even when pulling transporters and trailers or during frequent journeys with loads Optimum adhesion and enhanced lane change stability in both day to day and extreme situations Marked improvement in safety and sportiness without additional spring changes such as lowering your vehicle BILSTEIN gas pressure technology BILSTEIN mono-tube/Upside-Down technology, made in Germany Road-tested by BILSTEIN and fine-tuned No German TUV registration required" https://www.bilsteinsuspensionstore.co.uk/info-b6-suspensions @Vlady on that page the "Choose your Car" menu doesn't include Karoq, that could be for a few reasons (including their site not being up to date, errors and omissions) and whether the other models listed would fit and be suitable I've no idea, unless you've seen Bilstein B6 Karoq dampers available elsewhere (or even then) you might need to check with Bilstein. If the B6 aren't available for your Karoq that's an end to that particular path.

Do you know please how that price plus conversion and P&P works out compared to getting it from a Skoda Dealership (as I've found sometimes the Dealership prices can be good or reasonable for genuine part)?

Ian, you might get more, and more specific, replies (or find the subject already covered) in the Karoq forum, you could try a search or a post there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ HTH. Good luck.

@Carlston I totally agree with your post particular the "when fitting aftermarket shock absorbers that are similar to the factory fitted ones" and the "if the ride height hasn't changed". Same as the insurance company I've no idea what dampers are fitted to a Karoq or how similar or not B4 and B6 are to them, if they're equivalent then they can just be replaced as a repair anyway. Vlady's OP was about an upgrade to a PCP car not using OEM and if that would affect anything plus I was suggesting a change of wheel size. Perhaps the word upgrade is the problem, as relating to modification, I did try to cover this. If the B6 are similar/equivalent then there's no need to contact the insurance but I did put to check all information including from me. I've no idea what's in the PCP contract again if the B6 are similar/equivalent you'd imagine the PCP provider would be happy that newer dampers were on their vehicle if they have it back - well, in reality they'd not really know (even perhaps if told) or care at the end and it and would make no real odds to car's value to them. I wasn't against anything you put or disagreeing if the B6 dampers are similar/equivalent just that as Vlady's been reading about how much ride improvement with B6 on Superbs a bit more checking all round for their model and situation wouldn't hurt. I wasn't prepared to put do as you please as the insurance and PCP are unlikely to find out unless it's on a computer record or they have to do an inspection, if someone is concerned they need to do proper checks, anyone can, including you and I, say and advise on what usually or generally happens - again if the B6 are similar/equivalent I can't see an issue against OEM but it's not me or me with a PCP contract. In answer to Vlady's other questions do you know please - will the B6 improve the riding quality as much as it does with the Superb will they be better over small potholes and speed humps will it matter at all about leaving the rear factory dampers?

@A845-ALY did you get this sorted in the end, was it a new sensor required?

@PeterPan99 did you get it sorted, yellow catch-thing out and fluid tested and/or changed?

What did you decide in the end?

@Vlady I told you not to trust some bloke on the internet (me). 😄 If the Bilstein B6 are just an upgrade in performance and durability because they are better built that's just an alternative replacement part but if they are a different design rate(s) of damping compared to factory dampers that may well be another matter, you'd have to check, I've no idea. Ignoring the colour difference in the photos of B4 and B6 examples Carlston has posted for you they look significantly different to me. Just because one or more people have contacted one of more insurance companies I can assure you that doesn't mean your insurance or PCP will give the same answer, you could try to persuade them that other insurance companies accept this (but, and with full respect to Carlston, at the moment you have no real proof of this as its just hearsay) and if they decline you ask whoever you talk to go and check for sure. Or if they accept you should get written conformation, a good insurance or PCP company should be able provide written conformation (yes or no) easily. I apologise, I thought I would have made the following suggestion at the start as I often do but see I didn't. You might get more responses and more direct information by posting your question in the Karoq forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ I'm not sure how much changing dampers might improve going over small potholes and especially speed bumps compared to factory dampers (when new) or a change of wheel size if possible or better dampers would improve the ride overall. Dampers of different rate(s) may be better or not as good overall, or better or not as good, over small potholes and speed bumps. Plus as with many things, like tyre selection, different people have different perceptions, expectations and driving styles. Yes you can, certainly with 'factory' replacement dampers but whether that is the best or a good idea overall if fitting the B6, again I'd suggest asking Karoq owners who had done it. Many/some(?) may have just opted for a downsize on the wheels if that was possible. On my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia we had to change the front dampers as a "distress purchase" (MoT find) after only 6 years and 41k-miles use, and I've seen other Fabia Mk3 owners on here with the same issue, when I know one 20+ year old Toyota and another 25+ year old Toyota that are still on factory fitted from new dampers, suggesting to me that the early Mk3 Fabias at least had poorer quality dampers fitted at the factory. Very little about modern cars seems to be as simple and straightforward as you'd hope but so much is expected by us as customers (or consumers for some) from the vehicles, customer wants and fashions don't always relate to what is sensible or practical but that's another long subject.

Just about everything over here is done over the internet or phone and all is about self declaration on the application forms. Not many use insurance agents or brokers face-to-face and the car is never seen let alone inspected and never has AFAIK. They would be hard pushed to get photos showing today's newspapers as it's generally only the old that still buy printed paper newspapers (and the local paper is weekly not daily). On Agreed Value' for the likes of classic cars it depends on the insurer, my last insurer just wanted 2 recent photos and a declaration form filled in every two years for a value up to £15k above that it was a valuation from say a owners club specialist. Very high valve classics I expect would included more. Very high value new modern cars AFAIK don't involve any more than the cheapest new car certainly not an inspection as all is on the manufacturers' computer system and once registered on state systems. Car parts and other companies use these systems so entering a registration plate (doesn't have to be your car) and you get the car details including the VIN missus three or four characters, certainly the engine number in full. I am sure many here fail to declare modifications and get away with it but if there is a serious accident or insurance claim then the car will be inspected and there might be repercussions from any non-declarations.

Any outcome or resolution?

What was the outcome, was it the relay clicking - or have you just learnt to live with it and no longer notice?

Don't you have other than German or European makes in Greece? I personally can't imagine a VW engine with three-cylinders as I found the Golf Mk2 (horrible lardy car) 1.6, 4 cylinder engine to be on the rough side but I've had several small cc, 3-cylinder Japanese cars with jewels of engines and one Merc (that VW previously couldn't commit to) with for the time an unusually good Merc product. Even so I find it strange that your mate didn't get reasonable mpg out of the 1.2, 3-cylinder engine around town but real world figures beat marketing ,sales and manufacturer's own test figures. In 2003 I had a new Suzuki Swift with a 1.0 3-cylinder engine that wasn't as smooth above 70 mph but would get 60mpg on a run. At the same time I had a 1974 (built just after the fuel 1973 crisis) Rover P6 3.5 V8 (manual) that would be about mid-20s mpg on a run but you don't own a V8 if you are going to worry too much about mpg. ETA: BTW it's illegal to be taking a photo with a phone whilst driving in the UK and "Even using a hands-free option can incur penalties if your driving is deemed to be dangerous" even though many do it, only last week as a pedestrian I saw a young man in a black Golf with dropped seat and a middle-aged man in a new Porsche two-seater, good job I don't own a phone with a camera. - https://www.met.police.uk/advice/advice-and-information/rs/road-safety/driving-mobile-device-use

As I often told my wife as the car stopped because I had let the fuel run out, a gauge is just a gauge not "an accurate", ladies being more sensible she then later insisted the needle was always at least at a certain position or we filled the tank regardless, no debate. Men (and I dare include myself in that category) often love figures more than real world logic. My wife's present VWSkoda can have the fuel gauge needle sit at full for very many miles, neither of us believe the VW-cheaters gauges (dieselgate :cough:), and her previous GM product car could sometimes take over 100 miles (160km) to move the needle off full, neither of us believe we were doing hundreds of miles per gallon. If we had a TC-6, TC-6P (or TC-6 anything) we might take it as a very good guide but we'd still use pencil and paper, litres and mileage since last fill and simple maths to work out an average mpg over that consumption to give us an idea of mpg which would have little meaning because of all the variances, but too much consumption might point to an issue of running - too little consumption probably an error in the simple maths. I could take a photo of perhaps the matrix showing 70 mpg or 25, 15(?) mpg means nothing either way really, like the fuel range left in the tank figure, figures with little real meaning. My wife will always get s more mpg than me (unless I'm on a fuel economy test) . Best way to save fuel is to walk, cycle or get a lift with someone else. We all sit in our 5 seater cars as lone drivers looking at others exactly the same going along or in the same queue. Yes save what you can where you can but just owning one car let alone driving it is very wasteful regardless of mpg figures. I have the lack of wealth from mpg to say all this. 😄

Thank you - but - remember what I put, don't just trust one thing on the internet and some bloke like me on the internet (especially me as I make loads of mistakes, misremember and forget lots, that's if I ever had it right in the first place). Check with the PCP and/or insurance company, allowing for who answers the phone isn't necessarily an expert in the subject. I'm not saying I'm wrong but very often I have been, many times, luckily I can't remember the very many and no longer care about most other times, a car is nothing, never worry too much about it, but people are irreplaceable, even me (sighs of relief over the land). 😀

Do bear in mind what I put about any information from any source. If you need to replace a part it is probably expected that whilst the vehicle is owned by the PCP company that you fit factory parts or perhaps OE/OEM equivalent and not upgraded parts - best to check with PCP owner. Owners that make modifications to their vehicles do need to notify their insurance so obviously best to check beforehand in case it's a no or increase in premium, depends on your insurance policy/insurer. Same could be so for changing wheel size with both but if the wheels are also specified for the model I would guess they are unlikely to decline, cheap insurance and you might have to pay an admin fee or use your charm and good looks to talk them out of any fee. Check your PCP contract and see who owns the car and when, and think what you would allow and trust someone, who is using your car that you own, to do. Also not all upgrades are improvements, but I have no idea about Bilstein B6, I have no qualms about mods to a car, I put Bilstein dampers and (lowered) Eibach springs ("BMW set up") and a sports exhaust and K&N element engine filter on when I took over my Fiat Cinquecento Sporting from my wife when she bought another car. But we both owned the car outright so could do as we pleased (once the car was out of warranty, it was a Fiat!).

Rooted - cable- ties/wraps, main part of a TVR tool kit. 😄