nta16

About the same as the same as when you was parked up before but it depends on what electric consumption your car is using at the time and whether any significant load was left running, or drain, over night. You want to use the OBD to compare against the last OBD reading for consistency as the phone charger might always show a different result to your OBD being different devices. Personally I prefer a reasonable quality multimeter directly on to the battery terminal posts if you want to know the battery voltage at that point, but you would have to had taken a reading this way when the battery was first installed to know the difference. Depends on what electric consumption your car is using at the time and whether any significant load was left running, or drain, over night but I would consider 12.0v bad. My wife's AGM battery arrived in the post at 12.4v which is fine for the battery but I personally prefer to install the battery at 100% charge, though it isn't necessary, which will show something like 12 point 7, 8 or even 9 on a multimeter (after its surface charge has been lost). Hopefully you are fully sorted by now. As my wife does lots of short journeys I found I have done more preventative charges of the AGM battery fitted June 2021 with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer than I expected, not many but more than I expected. Cheers.

"More effective power consumption and charging capacity: Thanks to surface-active carbon additives – EFB+ version only." - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-services/servicing-and-parts/spare-parts-and-oil/battery.html I missed that bit first time of looking, press the drop arrow on "The benefits of our EFB and EFB+ batteries at a glance:".

You were showing 12.3v when parked up so if it shows around that in the morning that's fine, you have to consider what's being used by the car when you are sitting in it parked up (0.2v- 0.3v?) and by the Carista running its checks, sometimes accuracy of testing equipment. Also you were showing 12.2v at new battery installation. You can leave the Carista plugged in to se live data and even drive with it but don't leave it plugged in like that for longer than necessary and not as a habit. Computes and their programming aren't always (never?) perfect and can have brain-farts for various reasons as we all know whilst it matters a lot less if the Carista get messed up it matters a lot more if the VW programing or car parts do. Have the following pdf. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

Really sepulchrave, you've bothered again, you really do flatter and honour us poor humble misguided children with your attention. 😉 I never realised you were also a Certified Lubrication Specialist and scientist why you've been shy about mentioning this before I can't understanding given your expertise in all other matters. Please tell us about the oil only being 100% oil and nothing else, any old oil will do so I can't understand VW engineers ever bothering with their numbers, but engineers do love numbers, them being scientific like. 😉 If the OP and I want to change the oil in the gearbox why do you care, I put what I PERSONALLY do not that I'm a Certified Lubrication Specialist or a scientist or an engineer, and it's not like a scientist or gawd forbid an engineer has ever got something wrong or misunderstood. Do you need to visit Specsavers, you seem to have misread or misunderstood what I'd put, but possibly just lazy skim-reading and usual shorthand standard reply, I deserve no more. Prey do tell us enlighten us to what the lifetime of the gearbox is according to VW, engineers, no less, seems to be only until the warranty runs out and then any problem would probably be because of the car owner, perhaps putting in a non-VW light bulb in a sidelight. I offered alternatives to consider other than changing the gearbox oil and stated that changing the gearbox oil wouldn't help under a number of circumstances. You know changing the oil won't ever help so - if the OP drains the oil he will see and feel it's pristine, he'll feel a little foolish and tip it back into the gearbox, get a refund on the oil he's bought, return here and praise you as he should and admonish me for suggesting or forcing him to bother trying to change the oil with my ritual magic beliefs. I will throw a few chicken bones southwards at midnight in your honour. :deepbowing:

ETA: I forgot to put checking the oil level and topping up if required is a very good first step. If you have the car level and the gearbox oil cold and some runs or drips out when you remove the level/filler plug as I've often found I take it as being full or perhaps even over-full at that point. And one 1 litre bottle might be enough even for a refill but do you really want to be short on parts and materials once you've start a job.

My personal experience is that changing the gearbox oil as a preventative and improvement measure does help, obviously it can't do much when things have gone too far for that other perhaps buy a little more time. As put if you have problems it might be other gearbox causes, or other than the gearbox, or in addition to the gearbox. From Millers Oils data base for 2006 Fabia 1.4 TDI (51kw) XF Premium MTF 75w - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/8374-XF-Premium-MTF-75w-5.pdf (my preference for the effort as I only want to fart about on cars as little as possible and my time is much more valuable than any VW car, get it on some special offer somewhere) - EE Performance MTF 75w - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/8327-EE-Performance-MTF-75w-1.pdf If you want to go Yankee-doddle-dandy, from Opie Oils database, and it gives a second number if you're worried about that, and it has a VW number if you want to follow VW dictates. - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-85488-valvoline-gear-oil-75w-80.aspx?variantid=134455 Or you could buy any cheap basic GL-4, 75w-80 you can find. Or you could take it easy on the gearbox and gear changes and nurse it along for as long as possible, might be a good while if you're lucky. Do check any information you get from a bloke on the internet and cross reference any information from any source, all databases have errors and omissions including oil blenders and oil suppliers and car manufacturers. Get two 1 litre bottles, as you probably already know how much goes in also depends on how much you get out, if the oil in the gearbox is warm or hot you usually get more out and less old residue left in to dilute any effects the new fresh oil might be able to give. I tip a little warmed fresh new oil in at the end of the drain as a little flush for last gearbox dregs its reasonably possible to get out. Good luck let us know how you get on and perhaps a further follow-up in 6-months or a year, or when the box gets worse.

Grease will hold road and other debris, silicone is considered by some as not good on paint. Lubricate hinges and lots of other stuff with GT85 it has PTFE instead of grease (forget WD-40 Multi-Use use GT85 instead. GT85 was formerly a British company now owned by an American company called WD-40 Company.

Thanks for your initial report back here, and your answer post to me. Well that looks current and unusually for Amazon a very good price, I wonder why Castrol are selling the newer stock off cheaper, to your benefit though. So, do you still have the 2011 Octavia, if so you might want to add the Fabia details too as putting yours is a 2020, Fabia Mk3, 1.0 TSI 95 (and spec level) might speed up future answers for you. https://www.amazon.co.uk/stores/Castrol/page/96F8C9B4-D7AF-404D-BF7B-838FEE0BAD08?ref_=ast_bln Castrol EDGE 0W-20 LL IV - https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge.html#tab_0w-20-ll-iv WEPP-CPVU6J.pdf Cheers.

Which Castrol Edge 0W-20?

Why the argument continues is another matter but it began because a couple of posters, one with good intentions the other I'm not so sure about, don't want other viewers or posters to follow this example of suspension set up.

I am not a big fan of Haynes manuals and have no idea what is included in the Felicia 1996-2000 (UK) version but all data bases have error and omissions including in my limited experience factory workshop manuals. I also have no idea what, if any, other languages this is/was published in paper or digital. - https://haynes.com/en-gb/skoda/felicia/1995-2000-13-petrol-304858

A couple of quick ideas, - You could test the horn(s) by disconnecting from car wiring and making live and earth connections directly from 12v battery to horn(s) and if done a few times on and off this may "clear the throat" of the horn(s) if the car and/or horn(s) are not used a lot or for a long time. Be aware that there can be a fair bit of power and sparks perhaps and of course sudden loud noise possibly. All done at your own responsibility of course. If you can get someone to press the horn(s) button whilst you take a voltage reading at the horn(s) this might tell you if full electric power is getting through to the horn or end of the horn wire connections.

You would probably better looking at or posting on the 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/ If the car and horn(s) have not been used a lot and/or for a long time checking all the electrical connections are clean, secure and protected may be a first step. Starts at the horn(s) connects make be the easiest route but it depends on where they are located and how they are fixed to the car.

I share your frustrations with the way the way VW go about these things and info in Owner's Manual which gets less and less as the years go on. You can use Castrol if you want my wife's 2015 Owner's' Manuals (and other stuff) folder thing has a Castrol Edge badge stitched and glued on it so I guess VW/Skoda/UK has some commercial contract with Castrol so that's what the official Dealerships use but you can use other appropriate oils if you want. The Owner's Manual should tell you what VW dictate for VW number (50? ??) is required for your engine. Again the following link tells you a lot about oil specs including VW's dictates. - https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/197/What-is-the-Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/461 Not necessarily for your engine but just one example only of one 1.0 engine from the 7/2020 Owner's Manual.- Next thing you need to know is quaintly needed (I don't know) but if you're used to doing your own servicing you'll know dry fill capacities are higher than real world cold drain and refills. It would have helped if you put your car was a 2020 sooner, it would perhaps help if you change your profile to add/replace the car details as currently you show Octavia tfsi 2.0, 2011. and then if the Fabia is your first Skoda what's the Octavia about?

UK - fishtailing, hairpin bends/turns (a u-turn is to turn the vehicle to face the opposite direction). I have no idea now but there might have been a derogatory term about people from another country in the deleted post which instead of with the other mentioned factor might have caused the deletion.

Hi, welcome. you have posted in the Forum Support section you really want another relevant forum probably best to start at the 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013' forum, I'll 'Report' your post here and see if it can be transferred there. Good luck.

I saw the post but can not remember all that was in it, or the details, but I did notice that you had put something like - [not the same as I am putting now but with the same key words] - before the rebuild driving on the public road and something something something dangerous. I have no real idea if that was the reason the post was removed but I had thought I think I know what you actually meant but it didn't necessarily read that way in the post and a poor choice of words and/or description - but it might have been something else a lot less noticeable to me, or both things, I can't know for sure.

I saw the post but can not remember all that was in it, or the details, other than you reporting that the rebuild made a great improvement on the handling of the car and performance of suspension. Perhaps it was you putting something about previously to the rebuild a perception of danger whilst driving on a public road - but I don't know, I didn't 'Report' it and I am not a Moderator, or site owner, so could not remove the post but I did think the choice of word or description was unwise.

You might be better asking on the appropriate Fabia forum as they are more active.

Personally for short journeys and 3k-miles a year I would go for a 0w-40 or 0W-30 and change it, and filter, at least once a year if you want to keep the car long term. The 0w oils tend to be better oils as it takes a fraction more effort and recipes to get them to 0w. If you are coming from a 2011 car then you will want more use of an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and/or disconnecting the battery if the car is sitting around unused for weeks, see the Owner's Manual. VW are differ with their oils, in the Owner's Manual they say what VW command number is required but not what mulitigrade or quantity. Lots of oil info here, only one manufacture's info of course. -https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/197/What-is-the-Penrite-Knowledge-Centre/461

That is a sign and warning that the battery needs charging. Best is not to wait for any warning messages or lights but rather when required charge the battery in some way. The use of an appropriate charger maintainer and fully charging the battery will give you peace of mind that the battery is full rather than assuming so with any drive of the car. That might be an error to rely on that, a battery that is low may start the car and the lights seem bright enough. It is better not to let the battery get too low as and low too often as it is more difficult for the battery to fully recover again. There are a lot of very complex computer programs on the car, the computers run on 5v so if the battery gets too low all sorts of unexpected warnings and lights might appear perhaps worrying your mother when possibly all that is required to get rid of them is to (fully) charge the battery. If you want you can do what others have done and disconnect the grey connector at the negative battery terminal clamp and this will disable the stop/start An AGM battery is compatible but needs 'coding' in. I and others have put loads of information on this forum and site about the battery (and its importance), on checking the state of charge of the battery and charging the battery but if you have any more questions on it or the stop/start just ask, someone will usually reply, often with others replying.

Did you find out why there's so much water got on to it?

Another thing is the £6k a total with monthly payments and the interest, regardless of the amount it may be less expensive to borrow the money from elsewhere at less interest and pay a one annual premium. At £6k I'd think any thoughts of "stage 1" or any other mods should be a few years away as they will add to the premium, where as further driver training may reduce premiums and add to the car's and driver's performance.

You must have something different in your set of MoT regulations over there than in England. Here some car owners and buyers think that if a car has a MoT pass then it must be good and fine until the next annual MoT test so I often point out that a (genuine) MoT pass only means the car passed the statutory minimum legal requirement at that one moment in time, to one (hopefully trained and qualified) person's opinion, it doesn't mean the car is good or as good as it should or could be and that the car could potentially fail another test the moment the first test has finished. But a minimum requirement is that the car is roadworthy and if there is something dangerous on or about the car then there is plenty in the MoT test to fail it and unless it was a dodgy MoT it would be failed and the driver told he couldn't drive it on the road until it was put right. No genuine tester would take any chances over anything dangerous, and the word dangerous can appear in a MoT fail sheet with as many items that meet the criteria. Many places only do MoT tests to pick up the work that can follow from even a "PASS" without any "advisories" let alone a "PASS" with "advisories" or a "FAIL". Cars over 40 years old do not need to take a MoT test but if they do they must "PASS" to be allowed to be used on the roads again though much of the modern MoT doesn't and/or can't apply you can fail by just having a bulb not illuminating, empty windscreen washer bottle, etc..

I'm not saying it's impossible that an MoT tester over here is an engineer but I believe generally they are mechanics or perhaps technicians, AFAIK they have to be qualified but you can easily get variances as to their qualified opinion of a condition of something on or about the car which another qualified MoT tester may give a different conclusion to. Bearing mind all results only apply to that one point in time and conditions can change. I was told by one mechanic that my wife's one year old Skoda replacement front dampers would fail the upcoming MoT test so when I got the Skoda Dealership to get in replacement front dampers under warranty and complete an MoT at no charge they reported back to my wife that the new replacement damper were not fitted as they were not required because the Dealership MoT tester (they decline my idea of taking the car elsewhere to get the MoT done) stated they did not require replacement dampers as the one fitted only had "slight misting" and that was normal and acceptable for those dampers. It was not even recorded as an Advisory on the MoT which I had learnt might be the case elsewhere. Qualified people work on personal opinions too, hopefully based on their training and experience.