nta16

Hi, welcome. Have a look at your Owner's Manual for info on this and lots more, even very simple job you've been doing for decades it's still best to refer to the Owner's Manual as the German car manufacturers love to make simple stuff more complex to show how 'clever' they are. Using a key blade (or what is a key to an old person like me) gets you into my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia (after removing the cover on the driver's door and putting the key blade in upside down and turn the lock the opposite way to instinct) but then you have to be quick to get the key blade into the ignition lock otherwise the alarm goes off. ETA: - and turn the ignition on as the alarm will sound until then, I've just checked. Your Fabia probably doesn't have the hidden lock cover and have a lock designed for a r/h/s door. Look at your Owner's Manual, if you don't have the paper printed copy you can download a free VWSkoda pdf copy from the following link, enter VIN or scroll down the page and select model and (part) year. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you have future threads and questions it can often be useful to have more details about your particular Mk2 to help with more specific answers and information. Cheers.

Look at it this way as you didn't pay the higher initial cost for the Jazz you have more money to spread over time with the Fabia. You can't really compare a 1.2DSi with a 1.4 petrol but given you'd try 20mph in 5th in the diesel I can't think you're taking too much advantage of the petrol engine and driving that much quicker without realising it but then hopefully you're not labouring the petrol engine too much either. I can't think of any answers that would be of use or acceptable, or perhaps you wouldn't dislike, hopefully your runs to Fife might help a little if only for a while. In the future many more diesels and petrol car owners will find perhaps similar issues to you but perhaps not to your extreme. Yesterday day I drove my wife's Fabia and noticed it was doing infinity miles per gallon, fuel gauge needle was on 1/1 yet the car had done 65 miles since filling the tank, today the needle is two-clicks lower, it was great whilst it lasted. 😊

Depending on the insurance provider and policy they might say "computer says No", four odd tyres fine, put on some well oversized 19" alloys with over wide rubber band tyres fine just pay a little extra. Luckily my wife and I are old so get lower premiums so don't have to accept restrictive insurance policies but I know some may have to or want to to pay a lower premium. Good luck let us know how you get on with wheels and insurance.

Sorry my mind must have been on another thread with 1.2 TSI or as often just dislodged. In that case, if it's yourself with the relative that's a mechanic did he go over it fully to check it, or I'd have thought I'd suggested once you were confident in the car to take it for a good blowout to check out the whole car's systems and components and loosen and blowout any built up muck, sometimes it takes more than one run if the runs are still not long or involved enough. People who are used to higher mpg driving often don't drive the car far enough or "hard" enough on blowout runs and this doesn't mean driving stupidly or too fast just getting the right roads at the right time where the revs can be held higher, steering wheel, clutch, brakes and suspension get some exercise. Good for not eating petrol on acceleration but possibly not so good for the brakes condition if the car is static standing exposed in the open the majority of its time, disc brakes being more exposed and car and brakes not getting any or much extended exercise. Yes and I think we're been through the idea of some more extended and blowout runs before for the whole car as well as the engine. Why did you get rid of the Jazz, and not buy another one to replace it?

Nothing wrong with steel wheels, I prefer them, and more suited to our third-world roads. If it was factory standard then there's nothing wrong with that size tyre, it only seems skinny because the fashion for decades has been to fit overwide, bigger wheels with wider lower profile tyres. The ride comfort of your tyre will be to do with the quality of design, materials and build of the tyre new and the age, wear, storage (parking), use/abuse and maintenance after. Tyres get hard with age and/or lack of use. Living in Northampton and having travelled around Northamptonshire for work and driven for pleasure on most of the fabulous country roads in the county for decades I know the state of them, since we had to subsidise wealthy bankers pensions and the more recent financial series of crises. A recent new Fabia owner with a Skoda Approved purchase had four different tyres on the car, that usually doesn't help with what the tyres do - braking, steering, suspension, road holding, ride comfort and noises. Check your four tyres for matching make and model of tyre, similar tread depths, ages (date of manufacture is on the tyre) assuming they correspond reasonably to when they where actually fitted to the car - for at least the two tyres on the same axle. Tyre pressures, especially if well out of spec and/or variance to each other can make a big difference. In the real rural bits of the county having "skinny" tyres could offer more advantages, even more so than in the towns. If you're replacing one tyre think about the tyre still on the other side of the axle, and perhaps the two on the other axle. Buying tyres in fours or twos is generally best and having the best set on the most suitable axle.

30mpg does sound a little disappointing and as you've probably noticed I'm not particularly a fan of the VW 1.2 TSI engine (was never keen on the old VW 4-cylinders, sounded badger's-arse rough to me) or VW products and a VW (or Skoda) engine or car isn't a Honda engine or car - but - you're not doing a fair comparison. At 275 miles per 4 months that'd be about 825 miles per year, so, 62.5k-miles would be nearly 76 years of Skoda current use. 😄 I'd not imagine your 62.5k-miles of Jazz use was at 14mph average and only over the cooler months. IIRC your car Fabia had a "full" service history when you got it did you check the work had actually done and what that work actually involved. The Skoda Servicing & Maintenance sheet I have has 6-years/60k-miles(!) for engine air filter change, 4-years/40k-miles spark plugs (cambelt 5-years/50k-miles) and of course 1-year/10k-miles "Oil & Inspection Service" - it's all not a lot for the engine so if any was missed and then lots of intermittent very short journeys use it might not be optimal for mpg, Skoda 1.2 TSI or even Honda Jazz (probably to a lesser extent(?). When I used Ultimate 97 (infrequently) it used to make the exhaust noisier on my car but that was before the introduction of E10 and with later use I didn't notice, perhaps the car and/or BP Ultimate had changed in the meantime. Plus how big and heavy are your driving boots. 🙃 Be interesting to see how the next tankful goes and if everything is ticket-boo with your car's serving history and work done and how well your car is running. I don't know how long my neighbour's car had been dragging its brakes but as it never really goes any where it'd be difficult to tell on the mpg (275m would be years of use now).

I will ask for your post to be moved to the Octavia Mk II section as it will be seen more there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ As well as reading the Owner's Manual you may find helpful information in this set of videos. -

Say's it all doesn't it 'Skoda Approved' 😄 should certainly have you checking what (little) a full Skoda service history might be, many owners think an annual, or less often, change of engine oil and filter is a full service when it's not even a full engine service let alone a full whole car service and a lot can happen to a car in 3-4 years. To me they'd be steel wheels that go over the brakes, correct offset/inset, (stupid) wheel bolt holes in the right place and amount. Alloy wheels are just a fashion thing, same as the oversized larger and wider wheels and skinnier and wider tyres than the car actually needs. You'd have to get a copy of the relevant 2019 brochure to see what wheel options where offered on the car and then find out if your wife's insurer is ambiguous about what they mean by manufacturer options - to specific trim level only(?) (S, SE, SEL). As an example only, with my wife's 'SE' the lowest rent wheel was a 15" alloy (with options up to 17", for those that like that sort of thing) but the 'S' started at 15" steel wheels with option of two 15" alloy wheels. As we're old we don't have to be confined to restrictive insurance policies but I realise some others have to, or chose to. Personally I'd prefer my wife's Fabia had 14" steel wheels.

My wife's 90hp hatch has 15" alloys and 185/60 R15 88H not running at the higher eco tyre pressure and I'd sooner have 14" (steel) wheels with more tyre sidewall rubber but most would consider 15" fine (if not "filling the wheel arch"). If you buy the correct 15" wheels and they fit I should think the shocks and springs would thank you and there'd be no more than standard fitting and checks for the tyres. One note most don't like - depends on your insurance (or provider) but changing wheels from factory fitted can be seen as a "modification" even if going to a more sensible size, others don't care but might want to know. Changing from four odd tyres to a matching set of four smaller new tyres (depending on quality) may well improve braking, steering, suspension, road holding, handling and ride comfort and noise. @Carlstonmay well soon be along with fuller details. Four odd tyres, you did check the/any previous servicing had actually been done on the car?

Yes and you can report car faults and if enough owners get the same fault or it's considered a safety issue the companies are forced to sort the issue. In the UK the car manufacturers and their lobbyist are far too close to Government and Parliamentarians (not quite as powerful and influential as the gambling and sugar concerns though).

Sorry I wasn't sure which and what info is open or very closed source. I suppose if the information is paid for by independants then it won't be too open source. I've got a link to a load of USA BL TSBs from the 1970s and it's surprisingly some still have relevance to cars surviving from that time (liss plastic engine parts then).

@varooom and others may be able to help with TSBs or whatever VW call them and perhaps access to erWin but I don't know. I can't stand blatant lies from employees, even worse when it's from the company owners, even if the management or owners of the business tell employees to lie to customers (customers: often something nasty they stepped in and need to scrape of the soles of their boots or shoes) they could tell you honestly that it's company policy to keep this information within the business.

Mike Brewer is only a minor niche celebrity he would be unknown to more 99.9999999% of people. Like you, I and absolutely everyone in the whole world he is a mere mortal. I have never understood any type of hero worship or celebrity, if you want to celebrate anyone then it should be doctors, nurses, firefighters, police, care workers and essential workers as they are the people you really need in life, Entertainers are good but not of much use in real crisis. It was Ed China and Ant Anstead (now still 'Elvis'?) that done the mechanics and one of the reason's Ed China left was because the mechanical side was getting less and less for more entertainment. Give how long the show is it cannot show you much, just doing one job on a vehicle might take hours without the requirements of filming. Lots of work is done off camera it would always have to be that way. Ed China although very tall is very down to earth, when not performing at a show he just walks about like a mere mortal, unlike some others, than Richard Hammond really fancies himself and thinks he is a lot more than he really is and as for Jeremy Clarkson when you see him you realise they can stack **** that high, he really is loathsome full of self-importance and feels very self-entitled, good entertainer but like us all with flaws as a person just that he seems to really embrace some of his flaws, he is one of these celebrities/ "heroes" that asks for some sort of (generous) payment to do 'free' work for charity, but then many do.

That might prove how strong our local accents are, local-yokels. 😄 No way. Having a car on TV involves hours of waiting around doing nothing, some journalist have no proper respect for other people's property, unless it's a commercial move being featured is more about the owners ego. Which can be a laugh as they and or their vehicle might only be a very fleeting appearance, perhaps even in the very background or often not used in the show at all. My mate with the Westie was asked to arrange some "classic" cars from the club at a sprint circuit a reasonable drive away, I told him I would not waste my time and suggested he did not bother either as he wanted to promote the club. I told him he would be lucky if they got the club's name right and the club cars would only be as background for the show's featured car and that was if the any of the shooting in the show which it might not. The event was cancelled a few weeks before as the star was said to be ill and never took place later. There are plenty of companies that specialise in providing vehicles for films, TV and advertising. Mike Brewer is the Patron of the club I am in so I will not put about that show specifically but generally, certainly now at least, I would not say things are fake, in the past many shows had set up bits that could be called fake perhaps back then. Now and in the past much of the work actually done is not mentioned or shown giving a much over-simplified impression to the general public of what is needed and done . Costings are usually still 'optimistic' even now. I was not driving the Midget at all hard in the video and a standard 1275cc, or 1098cc, would look like it was going the same, I think the noisy exhaust makes it seem like it is going quicker perhaps than it actually is, the cars we were behind in the video were not going fast and I only overtook one lorry and the camera was off then. With some of the changes over the years the car was not as nippy as it was years before after first fully sorting it and even then most even modest modern family cars were quicker and faster, but without giving the same feelings. One thing to remember is whilst your Foreman is light by modern standards the Midget is lighter still so will pick up road speed quicker and the reasonably flat torque curve the Midget had.

Try cleaning the bulb, bulb holder and wires connection plugs with electrical contact cleaner and a brush and see how that goes.

I might as complete my ideas on getting and old car ("classic") that is new to you. Well before sorting the engine fully number one priority is brakes, then steering and suspension, all three include the tyres, then on to safety electrics, lights, wiper, blower, horn and glass, windows mirrors and reflective number plates, see and be seen. In between using or running the car I'd do a staged full 36k-mile service/check flushing and changing brake fluid, coolant, gear oils. Much of servicing ,maintenance and some repairs mainly boil down to clean and lubricate, including dissy and points if you keep the originals You'll get gradual improvements from the regular driving over reasonable distance journeys and the staggered servicing but the overall improvement will be probably very noticeable. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

The tyre size of 165/80r13 has a few possible reasonable alternatives but by far the best would be from a real enthusiast (and bit of a character) of Blockley tyres, plenty of good quality rubber, full 80 profile, period tread look and suitable for road or casual sport use and with a (genuine) 1,000-mile money back guarantee. "if these Blockley tyres are not the best that a customer has driven on, then drive 1,000 or so miles on them and we will refund. Every one of these tyres is inspected and checked for dynamic balance - the small painted yellow circle on the side wall can be aligned with the valve stem by the tyre fitter so they know the optimum place to put it. We perform this additional inspection process as part of supplying the best possible no-compromise product." You just drive them steady for the first thirty miles and then however you like the next 970 miles. I've no connection with the company and nothing to gain or lose whatever you buy. Blockley were going to be my next tyre purchase on my "classic" before its sudden departure. Modern tyres in these sort of sizes can be disappointing without out the grip or even reasonable wear of the same make and model of tyre only a few years previously. - https://www.blockleytyre.com/product/165hr13 There's a few ugly rim weights on the front wheel, do you know what the manufacture date is on the tyres (four digits, first two are the number week of the year, second two the year, three digits and a triangle on its side they're last century and IIRC pre-1990s three digits only). For wear of the bottom part of the dissy I was more thinking of plates, bob-weights, and perhaps vacuums units. I've no memory of what dissy is fitted to the Estelle and some might have been change to other dissys, but for old Lucas you can still get separate NOS vacuum units, springs, weights, plates, bodies, etc., rebuild of existing. I have heard other good reports about Lumenition electronic ignition units, there are two types, Magnettronic and Optronic, I've had neither of these but have had an Aldon (Pertronix) Ignitor and a NOS earlier BL version of the Lumenition Optronic and both worked well but are now expensive compared to (if available) a fully electronic dissy like CSI or 123-ignition. If you're going electronic then get rid of the points, otherwise IMO there's little point (pun intended) the more good quality electronics ignition you go to the better as far as I'm concerned, cheap and/or low-quality is a real gamble if you want reliability and not have to carry spares "just in case". The prevention of fit 'n' forget is better. Such a low mileage car needs a good service, of the whole car, then proper regular use, on reasonable length journeys, not just short test runs, and that will iron out any initial wrinkles and get the car running better. For the engine old cars particularly love clean engine air filter, engine oil & filter change, spark plugs and CB points setting. No point doing too much fiddling with the carb until the engine is reasonably well set as carb setting is end of the set up list and may need redoing if you adjust settings in the list before the carb. Mk2 Escort would have given you a very reasonable idea of RWD, if you can remember it. You shouldn't really experience the pendulum / fishtail / tankslapper of the rear engine unless you make a mistake, as I once did when not concentrating on what I was doing leaving a dual-carriageway on the exit slip road and suddenly saw a stationary car and over reacted with a sharp right then left turn of the steering wheel, lesson learnt.

Thanks for reporting back. Sorry nothing worked and thank you for educating me about the two presses. I did wonder if your remote might be at fault and wondered about suggesting you change the car setting so both remotes open all doors at first press. this does mean all the door locks get equal exercise and perhaps(?) less(?) chance of a less-used lock(s) not operating in the future and not knowing about the fault until you can't open the door (depends how much you use rear doors and boot). My wife tried the driver's door only setting with second press for all doors and didn't like so reset to all doors on first push. A neighbour's Picanto boot lock mechanism broke and what a disproportionately awkward job that was to get into, test and repair with my small chubby hands, a cable-tie permanent repair was made once I'd worked out what should have been where. I find not having a 'valet' setting so I my wife can open the boot without me having to remove the key from the ignition a bit of a pain but I expect there's a computer setting to get passed that, which I don't have access to. Being old I find all remote locking an unnecessary pain, I always used the keyblade on my wife's previous car but if you do that with the Fabia the alarm goes off unless you're quick to get the ignition on. 😀

@wesacosado bear in mind the electronic kits only deal with the top ignition part of the distributor the mechanical bottom part can still be worn but a good top kit can improve starting and running whereas a cheap crap kit can be unreliable and suddenly stop working. Also some cheap rotor arms and dissy caps can be a very false economy. If(?) you can get and can afford a good fully electronic dissy for the car that will be fit 'n' forget for tuning and much of the maintenance and give biggest improvements for reliable better starting and running performance. Good quality and condition HT leads, not necessarily expensive ones, can make a good improvement too, just because existing parts are working doesn't mean they're working at their best or are not way beyond their optimum. First thing for ignition (after the car's battery being in good state of charge and condition for starting) is the spark plugs, first ignition part I'd replace (after charging or if required changing the battery and checking battery and main leads and earths and their connections). If you are only used to front-wheel drive cars then take care to slowly build up driving faster in the 120L (needle dial speed doesn't matter, too fast can be at very low speeds as it depends on circumstances) and what you learn this spring and summer remember to appropriate for autumn and winter driving. They're a fun car to drive and don't need to be driven like an elderly aunt going to Sunday service, unless you want to. Get some decent (standard or near enough size) tyres on them and the handling can be very good indeed.

Yes the F40 was the only Fezza I'd be interested in a ride in, more my style of driver's car still a total waste of time on British roads or most roads anywhere I'd guess. I saw my mate with that car only yesterday and he reminded that the car was very untidy at the time with the duck tape at the nose cone edge and mess of wires under the dash, all sorted soon after the vid with new modern fuse boxes added too. A new aluminium topbox will be filled to the (extended) luggage rack soon as he prepares to take it over to the Historic Circuit of Laon, in France, again. The video was very hurried except for the driving, mostly I wasn't going above 40mph with an odd stretch of 50 or 60 and the engine does not really pick up until 4,000 revs and I doubt I ever got to that let alone above it. The car's sound had to be dubbed on from a video my mate made from inside the car, with the hood up, coincidentally on his way to Loan the previous year, as there was far too much wind noise on the actual recording. If yo look you will se the acceleration noises do not tie in with how the car is actually going. At one point you can see the brake lights on yet the sound is of the car still accelerating. The exhaust silencer has also been repacked since both videos as it previously blow out the original insulation. Not included was when my baseball cap got blown off, went about 4m straight up to drop back and land on the dual-carriageway road just as a motorbike approached it and steered round it, good repossesses by him. That is why I accelerated at the change of traffic lights as they changed to get to the nearby roundabout to get back to my cap before it became roadkill or another motorbike to swerve round it not knowing what it is. The video was made with a cheap second-hand Go-Pro copy and free or cheap editing software and was only the second after the Midget where my neighbour done the voice-over himself. I have no idea what the subtitles would make of his accent, Google is not yet clever enough to deal with English accents. Very few in England have the "Queen's English" you hear in international films, there are so many accents here and even people from only 30 miles away may not fully understand every word or phrase let alone regional accents. Yes that was mine for 15 years until last August. The condition was good but far from excellent, a mate who bought it had it highly polished in short order, replaced the failed (wrong rubber) seals in the concentric slave clutch with some special seals and sorted some other jobs that were on my list to do. He also found how poor the replacement hood was that I bought and had fitted by the manufacturer and how difficult it is to raised in all but the warm sun. I also sold him the hood I had bought and had arranged to have fitted by an upholsterer (which is now an expensive job). I expect he will bring the car round once he has fitted the new hood in the hotter weather. I have not seen the car since well before Xmas and if I remember correctly the engine was still out as the gearbox was away seeing what could be done with it to stop the leaking - it was supplied, modified and fitted by 'the conversion specialists' otherwise known by me as f...ing lying con-men but very highly regarded by many others including a famous car TV personality. I hope my mate has also had the stainless steel silencer repacked as that was far too noisy, the baffles inside go a bit but not fully and the noise goes up , another job I had lined up after my other mate's success with his on the Westie. HP values are ego figures, highest does not mean best for overall running, a flat high torque curve is better. Apart from after the second rolling road session when I was getting improved parts and all the servicing was paying off all subsequent sessions the figures reduced because of a change of rollers, changing in UK fuel and as the car was aged and wore. Last rolling road session, with real figures given by a proper Austin/BMC/BL A and B-series engine builder and tuner rather than some that extend the figures for egos, running on 95 octane E5 (could have higher if set for and using 99 octane E0 as I often did) - 80.62 hp at 5,442. Torque 86.28 lbft at 3,297 and reasonably level from 3,200-4,400. Book claim when new would have been 64hp and 72 lbft. Depends on your budget, the kit versions could be put together using second hand components and parts but the factory built ZEi 130 and SEiGHTs were at the time European compliant and with everything new build, they were quite expensive compared to an ordinary mass-market car. My mate's 130 in the video is I believe a 'clubman' version built for road and track use, it has 14" instead of the 15" wheels my 130 had. mine also had a heater his not, his a side exhaust mine under the car, his quick-release bonnet clips, mine four keylocks and his engine bay is a lot more congested than mine was, perhaps his as a slightly earlier car than mine Westfield were still finding out what they could fit where or perhaps more items were need for track compliance. That was true but the Westfield made parts were another matter, Westfield was very strict about getting those, the ducted nosecones of the factory cars were not allowed to be sold for kitcar use. If you made any part and offered it to others Westfield would threaten to sue (as Caterham did with them that caused the Westfield improvements). On my mate's car is an update roll-over bar with a inset wind-deflector which he made himself (Fezza fabric). He also made the extendable luggage rack, fitted a heated-windscreen and his brother made the micro-adjusting tracking parts. The Westfield "7s" sit high up compared with the Westfield 11s, copies of the Lotus 11, which started the Westfield company, the Wikki on Westfield, like so much on the internet generally about many subjects, is very short on information and has errors.

For fault codes, which are often only a pointer in the right direction rather than the full diagnostics solution, you could perhaps see if there is someone local to you with a VCDS or suitable machine to see what information it can give. It's also good to have a second independent reading you can see done in front of your eyes and see the readout and have recorded report. Here is a list of Briskoda members that may be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) The car could have something like a turbo actuator fault plus need a regen. The regen does take more than most people realise and a lot more if you are only used to driving the car steadily and over shorter journeys, and you don't want a low tank of fuel. It may or may not be a crap car, and being an older modern diesel it may or may not be suited to your driving and usage - it could be a good car just with common and easily resolved problems, or not, over the internet no one is going to be able to confirm (at least this early on). You'd probably not want to do as these guys did and certainly not until you know for sure what the actual problems are and this may not be necessary if other issues are resolved. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6nIjAglvLw Personally I'd try to find someone on that list above to at least do a full scan and report and then based on that information consider whether to go for a proper blowout run, or IF I could bounce the car back (despite consumer laws this might not be possible in the real world) or whether to get the repairs and keep the car or sell it on. I've had dealings with the English motor trade for decades so know how things are in real life as opposed to the ideals, theories and laws, if you are dealing with totally dishonest, or totally incompetent or lazy, people it's difficult to get anywhere useful with them. That doesn't necessarily mean you shouldn't try though, you know your situation I don't.

Hi welcome. You would possibly be best to take it to somewhere that can do a full diagnostics and/or specialises in VWs. There are plenty of possibilities to causes and repairs, some might be easy. More information is needed as the codes are quite generalised, what is the mileage of the car, do you know any fairly recent history of the car, its previous usage, servicing and maintenance history.

There are other videos of the 220 and other cars but of course people use different titles for their own videos. I did once have a passenger ride in an F40, the dash looked like it was cover in a cheap carpet I rather liked that. Driver went at silly speeds and really you couldn't tell, it was silly to do so really, lower speeds and more interesting roads would have been better. Here. The car's sound had to be dubbed on and does not match the images but all was done on very cheap second hand equipment and free or very cheap editing programs as the returns from YouTube are tiny and although the shooting took very little time the editing takes ages. Not just high performance cars, if you wanted a quick take-off in something like a V8 Westie you would start in 2nd gear, none of these fancy launch controls, silly on a road car all about track use. Always funny to see a Fezza owner that does not really know his car and not able to move his car because he has messed up the launch settings and not know how to disable them to crawl the car away. 🙂

@tootyou won't like it but when I put Shell V-Power (wotever) diesel in my wife's GM product somewhere between 8 and 16 years ago there was a definite visible difference, from thick black sh1te cloud to thinner grey/silver cloud. I have no evidence other than that of my own eyes and I've no idea if the new 'improved' Shell V-Power diesel of current time is as good.

Bear in mind Esso labelled E5 might be E0. Now we have E10 the differences are in the amount of E and the difference in the octane so there could be more variation with a variety of cars and variety of states of tune. There is no way my wife can say if the Tesco E5 99 gives more to the gallon as whilst most of her (very short) journeys are the same her journeys overall aren't regimented and can happen in different circumstances, she won't drive up the M6 for a 100 miles at 50mph as I once did to test mpg about 10-14 years ago (would that still be possible now?). And there are far too much electronics and computer interference on her standard Fabia to tell if it feels any better, though she thinks it might be going better that's probably placebo, sounds as rough as always to me. Like a lot of things in the end it probably boils down to belief over any facts or figures presented from either directions or sources.