nta16

Sorry I don't know what year a Mk3 facelift is but with my wife's 2015 as with a lot of other very useful information it's the Owner's Manual, under luggage compartment, fixing nets. You need to read and consult the Owner's Manual even for simple jobs you've been doing for decades to be sure you doing them as VW require. Tea now for me but I can post pics after if you need them, or you can find stuff here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Could the airbox be from another vehicle. If you have any papers for work done on the engine or cylinder head it might say if it was converted (hardened valve seat fitted) - if it was required anyway. Otherwise you can get additives that cover lead replacement and ethanol (and even with octane enhancement). Valvemaster range from the MG Owners Club and Millers VSPe Power Plus Multi Shot from Millers Oils and possibly others that I don't know about. Not unusual to find that only one or two people kept any history, you're lucky if you get the original Owner's Handbook and spare keys that came with the car new as these are the types of things that owners mislaid. If you have a Haynes workshop manual for the range and it doesn't match with what is in the Owner's Handbook (subject to that being correct for your car) always suspect the Haynes has it wrong as that is most likely. And the Haynes wont give you the useful information the original Owner's Handbook does but do bear in mind that was written over 30 years ago and oils and some parts have improved a lot since then (some modern made parts though are now crap). MoT history might give you some idea of what was being done to or with the car at the times but there can be a lot of personal opinion with Mot testers and the same advisories can come and go over the years. More important of course is how the car is now, if the car has been used since 2021 even more reason to carry out a staggered fully 36k-mile service/checks to build from a good base and datum point, if you do the work you know for certain what was done and when and how.

For Mk3 Superb Estate or Fabia Mk3 as you're in the Fabia Mk3 section.

Would the VW Polo because it carries the name badge have additional noise insulation as they never worry too much about their name badge cars' weights?

Borg & Beck are First Line, neither are always the finest parts available. - http://www.firstlineltd.com/ Sometimes they do the same part under both brands, not this time. - BCM123 - https://webcat.borgandbeck.com/PartDetails/BCM123/#partInfoBCM123

22k-miles in 6 years is low overall mileage which isn't always the very good thing some think it is, obviously it depends and I've no idea it could make your car marvellous. Lower mileage can often be more wear on some aspects of the car than higher mileage thus needing more servicing and maintenance and not less as many think but again I can't know with your car and 22k-miles isn't much unless the car has had a owners or users that are very hard on cars. I can think of no good reason why your 110 should much louder than my wife's 90 and even with poor insulation it wouldn't be enormously loud I'd guess, at least to me as my last car was very old and noisy and without soundproofing (but I did later put on sound deadening pads). Record the sound also with the bonnet up and inside the cabin with and without bonnet up. Comparing with another same model is a good idea but I don't think it's necessary as I'm not a VW fan and often moan about the engine bay noises but I'd never say the engine and cabin noises are bad if anything they're pretty good. What gearbox do you have? Have you got the rear seats down and parcel shelf out? You could check to see if it's missed any (admitted) Recalls here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Perhaps ring the local Skoda Dealer and see if there are any more secretive items they check for your particular VIN. If you've been in an old van or lorry with the engine in the cabin you'd certainly know what loud is. 😄

Databases have errors and omissions even those from the parts or car manufacturers, these errors and omissions are copied and repeated and when databases are merged often more errors and omissions are added. Then parts get superseded and rationalised bringing in slight or complete mismatches and more errors and omissions. With tens or hundreds of thousands of parts on computer systems updates and corrections aren't kept up or even bothered with often. Then a new system is bought in . . . and guess wot 'appens. 😄

True but that's potentially instead of damaging their tyres. You may remember I think of a 70 profile tyre as the low profile option so most wheel and tyres on modern cars to me are too big, over-wide and too low profile for their needs, it's just fashion. There's been nothing to say the OP's mum is that sort of a bad driver. I saw an Audi, fashionable wheels and tyres on, hit and ride over kerb where I was about to walk let his mate's out and as I walked passed I heard hissing as the tyre deflated. I had no sympathy as there were plenty of places he could have parked on the road and he approached the kerb at greater speed than needed or sensible for the unnecessary manoeuvre - but obviously he had to as he was the driver of a black Audi.

I'm not a fan of these over complex computer programs. If the fault has gone good but I'd not rely on that. My number one thing and I presumed you'd seen it is car battery too low in charge for the computer programs, that's not any signs of trouble with starting the car or lights not bright enough or even warning lights and messages. Sometimes driving the car and/or less use of the very many electric items on a 2019 car can take the battery back over the computer satisfying threshold but much more driving or a session on a suitable battery charger is often needed to stop another reoccurrence too soon. Test your battery at its terminal posts a good few hours after the engine was last run if you get less than say 12.2V or 12.3V (allowing say about 0.2V drop if the car's computers are still active whilst the car is a rest) then either a good run without using much of the electrics on the car or better still a full top up charger with an appropriate charger maintainer. Other thing is that all electric connections are secure, battery post clamps and main earth connections on (also helps if they're clean too). My wife's car registered misfires after I disconnected and reconnected the previous battery, never had any since. I also think if you have a scan tool or code reader that delete the error codes fully that can help, less for you and the car to be concerned over. Let us know how you get on.

Not if the wheels are the same size, width, offset, same (stupid) wheel bolt hole spacing, it's just appearance. 15" Mato was standard fit to my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 SE and optional on the 'S' trim level. It sounds like your mum had an accident rather than is really that bad at parking kerbside, if she really is that bad then you might want to notify SpecSavers or the DVLA, but if not no need to waste on wider tyres. Have you tried scrap yards or vehicle dismantler and auto recyclers (I assume, might be wrong, they can sell wheels).

Not as on my wife's 2015 1.2TSI 90 hatch. Engine bay gives lots of different noises at different times but I think that's the computer programs doing their thing (interfering) often. What is the history of the car, how many engine oil & filter changes, spark plugs, engine air filter, and any much more important work on brakes, steering and suspension, all three include tyres. How many miles on the engine? Are you sure it's not wheel bearing or tyre noise? Have you checked the tyres? Is the noise only at the revs the turbo would be active? Are you sure it's not exhaust, has the exhaust or car been chav'd /"improved" at all? Exhaust shield loose? Can you do a video / audio of the noise? That's me out of ideas.

If the battery doesn't get a little warm from charging then it might not be charging enough, but if you only want to the battery to start the car and get the car on to whatever's taking it away you only need sufficient for that. 8v wasn't that low compared with the last two batteries I saw but some modern chargers need fooling if the battery is below 10.5V, others at 7-something volts IIRC (which is always doubtful). I think you might be a bit over-cautious with the charger's maximum voltage for the job in hand but I'm sure you'll get there, I'd be low and slow on the amps and have some reserve in the battery in case for whatever reason the car doesn't start well or there's a shuffle to load it or they turn up a day or two late for collection, Sod's Law always seems to apply when least convenient.

The following video seems good for giving general background info to P0111 but you could try clearing all error codes and see what returns and which might be first to return. Different scan tools can give different readings. Intake Air Temperature Sensor P0111 / P0112 / P0113 | How to Test and Replace - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0c3gzm9464 ETA: Bob, I don't know 2019 cars (far, far too modern for me) do I take it that it's a 1.0 3-cylinder(estate) engine code does it for those with more knowledge.

From my neighbour's Ring RSC612 (12 amp battery charger / tester). - An article of t'web, selling sum'at so 'oo knows. -"Fact is, AGM batteries must be charged and maintained differently to standard lead-acid batteries. A simple rule of thumb: AGM batteries hold a higher voltage and therefore need to be charged and maintained at a higher voltage." - https://theshopmag.com/features/how-get-most-out-agm-batteries/ With the following I am not suggesting anyone needs to or should follow what I done, perhaps I'm a maverick that likes to live dangerously. I topped-up fully charged the new AGM bought before fitting it to my wife's Fabia Mk3, I used one or both (I forget) of my 20+ and 30+ year old standard chargers, perhaps by doing this I might have shorted the life of the battery from 10 to 9 years or 4 to 5 as VW would have it, who knows, only time will tell. That if the car's alternator doesn't play up or the battery isn't abused by the owner and users. The internet and the answers you can get is very democratic all answers there to suit everyone The Donald luvs it. 😄

As I know you don't believe me on such things there's loads of info on the internet about this. Why are you bothered about the health of the battery going in the scrap car. If you want to put some charge in the old battery using your charger then do so I'm sure you know enough not to do any damage that would matter for the very short time of the car being collected. I will dare to suggest that in my experience of old, flat/"dead" batteries using a 2, 3 or 4-amp or slow charge setting will be better than something like 12 amp on normal or quick charge which always seems to kill them if they're already in poor health - but that's just my totally unprofessional, non-expert (in any way) experience over a number of years with neighbours' and friends' car batteries. Then for your new battery in your new to you car buy yourself a 3 or 4-amp charger and maintainer suited to AGM they're not expensive I've seen people report success using £15 battery charger and maintainer from Aldi - only in case you accidentally drain your new battery too low for the computers or yourself as otherwise of course the car's alternator means you never need a battery charger. 😉

Always worth a look at the sensor and its connection and wiring just in case it's something obvious. Also check the engine air filter and its housing box to make sure they're not badly contaminated or full of whatever. You don't say what year (or other details) about your car so if the air filter hasn't been changed (VWSkoda put at a silly 6 years/ 60k-miles) then a new fresh good quality filter may help and often helps the engine regardless, stops some muck getting into the engine and expensive exhaust bits. Let us know how you get on. Example of car details to possible help with future posts or threads. -

Obviously coolant in oil isn't the only sign of HGF, difficult to start is another hence not wanting to confuse that with a weak battery, but having no milky mess on the underside of oil cap also hopefully means the car wasn't used or engine running only for short periods of time. I wasn't sure if I could see the, at the time ubiquitous, glass sunroof in the photos, yes the aerial was there, a much better location than the rear window as the heater was in the rear window it would cause radio interference when both were on. If you have the Driver's Handbook / Owner's Manual have a good read of that and refer to it frequently, I can't remember how thorough or comprehensive they were by that time and if they gave details of not only operating the car but also maintenance and servicing illustrations and instructions. Workshop manuals and the likes of Haynes don't cover the necessary information that the Driver's Handbooks do. If you have any paperwork and bills and receipts for the car put them in strict reverse chronological order and see what might still be relevant for condition and running of the car. Some people keep a receipt for a paint touch-up can from decades ago but loose the paperwork for the important stuff. With a very low mileage car a bill for a part from decades ago may still be relevant as the part may still be on the car which can be a good thing or not so good thing depending on the item, something like 20+ year old tyres generally are not good. Finding stuff left in the car can sometimes be interesting, amazing what some people leave.

Thing is the engine isn't really serviced at these oil changes and inspection services let alone servicing the whole car so I doubt many places look at an engine air filter if they're not scheduled to change it, I might be wrong about this I'll have to have a look at the lie tick sheets for my wife's car to check. I think it's ridiculous to leave it 6-years/60k-miles before changing the engine air filter but these German engineers must know what they're doing as German engineering is so good. My wife's filter was changed with changing the spark plugs which makes sense given the design of the air filter airbox removal and additional fun of the what's involved with the plugs.

That's a festoon bulb, whether it's the correct one or correct wattage I don't know. It might be a 239 in old English or C5W in other speak (C I can't think what, 5 I guess for 5 watts and W for white light) but do check and not just go on what someone tells you on the interweb-thingy, especially if 'es old and poor mental faculties . Plenty of cheap crap LEDs about but I and others have found Classic Car LEDs to be a good company to deal with and good products, check with them which products might work, personally I'd not go for the very bright white light as it tends to bleach out the area negating its intended use, warm white might not look as bright but will be bright. Old, quaint idea I know bit I'd phone them to make the situation clear and get proper advice or product, saves time in the medium and long term. Classic Car LEDs. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/

That could be for many reasons which is why it's best to be methodical and start with the basics and at the start of the basics. If you want to improve this you could consider how old the petrol is, whether it is E10 or E5, or if the previous owner used any additives. Then have a look (replace) the engine air filter and clean the housing on the inside and inside of all hoses/trunking to/from it it if required. Taking the air filter out IIRC and you should be able to see if the carb plate is in a right state or not or any blockages from storage or static lack of use of the car. TBH I'd not bother with the grille lights I've never found front spots or fog lights to be of much use. Brings me on to another thing I'd forgot, I always advise that you don't think about dealing with cosmetic changes or upgrades or improvements (unless the item needs to be replaced anyway) until at least 12 months of year round use of the car on reasonable length journeys through the range of driving environments and conditions. Otherwise you could be spending money on items that might be needed for more pressing and important items in the future plus as I put until you have fully driven the car in various circumstances you wont know what the car really needs and what you want with the car or what you get used to. What you think you want when first getting the car may change or disappear with using the car. Plus many improvements and upgrades can turn out to be the opposite or not the most effective way to make the upgrades or improvements you may want. A good battery in good condition and state of charge is always good but can be very necessary if you have electrical or starting issues as a good battery will help with diagnosing and sorting the issue whereas a poor and/or low battery will hinder and even perhaps cover what the actual cause is or that the issue has been resolved and the battery is now the issue. Good tyres can be a big improvement and upgrade for braking, steering, road holding ride comfort and noise. Memory is a funny thing, I remembered my Rapid as having a very variable wiper settings on the intermittent but when I looked at a Rapid at the NEC Classic Motor Show the three(?) switches weren't there. Has yours got the radio aerial in the rear window? Check you oil for coolant, and if you find it necessary after driving the car perhaps get a tester pipe kit as I remember head gasket failures weren't uncommon.

On my wife's 16 year old Cortina Mk3 (2000E) the ignition key lock was broken from an attempt to steal the car from the previous owner, it had the hook from a car seat cover left in permanently as the key, we of course immediately improved the car's security by removing it from the lock.

I'd not either, they're just bling to me and to me don't look good when secured with a cable-tie even if it is colour coded. Are black wheels still gansta, I've no idea of fashion or what der yuf, anyone under 45, think looks good. Black is nice and easy to slap a bit of paint on if required to stop and rust from chips or dents. You could paint the wheels before putting them on the car to make them more durable, obviously you don't want to trap any existing rust under the paint. I've never painted any wheels and can't remember what Smoothrite is like but the old Hammerite was the type of stuff that seemed susceptible to chipping. I'd just throw on some of that chip resistant stuff like they use on the car sills. Now, what colour tyres are you going for . . . I'll get me coat.

🤣 Thanks. Yes Dual Spark ignition, that's far too easy and I was being lazy assuming D was for diesel, I wasn't sure if the Honda Jazz even came in a diesel and wouldn't have guessed they'd have a twin spark. TBH I never really notice Jazz as, was it, 20 years back I thought it was large for a small car as I'm more used to the size of Civic from the the 1970s. I'm all for timely fluidly changes using good quality items but there's more to an engine service than just an oil and filter change and and even a full engine service isn't a whole car service. Some wouldn't bother doing anything to the car if they were doing your mileage. 16k-miles a year is a bit different from 275m in 4 months for mpg comparison, nothing wrong with saving petrol but the best way to do that is not to have a car. Every little helps, as Tesco tells us, but it's all a bit ridiculous when all general modern cars are so big and heavy with over big wheels full of fancy extras that get only occasional use, five seats and only the driver in the car, all a bit robbing Peter to pay Paul. I done decades of pleasure driving so there was little point me worrying too much about mpg but I can understand it for others. As I put before it'd be interesting to see what the Fife journeys bring and the mpg over the next four months, good luck with it. ETA: just noticed this 😄

Looks good, a quick wash and polish or wax for now just to protect it and if you clean the large black and glass areas (and reflective number plates the car will look cleaner and shinier if if you don't touch the paintwork at all. I used AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel, applied with a 25mm cube of clean used sponge (many over products are available). Clean black rubber seals last in case they shed their blackness. Clean from top to bottom, gutters, air vents, door handles, mirror overs, fuel cap, boot spoiler, front grille bumpers. For the tyres I use Armor All Tire Foam, spray and walk away, the way all cleaning should be. Don't fall into the standard "classic" car owner mindset of the carb needs fiddling with, yes it may need adjustment but it is on the end of the adjustment list for the engine and as I put before the engine is not the most important component, system or part on the car. Check and adjust as required in the order of valves (tappets), CB points, spark plugs, timing and carb mixture in that order, if you adjust any item in the chain then you need to check/adjust all items that follow. We've cover the ignition parts, personally after checking, charging or replacing the battery on an old car new to me for ignition I'd put in new spark plugs as they so inexpensive and to be sure of their condition and I'd take a good look at and check the HT lead set too as again good quality sets are so inexpensive now or you can make up your own sets, Just because parts like spark plugs and HT leads are working doesn't mean they're working well I always expected my "classics" to run well and not be the stereotypical slow, unreliable, poor handling old car that unfortunately many "classics" are because of the owners. As I put before between using or running the car so you get to know it, how to drive it and what it is capable of and what niggles need sorting first, I'd do a staged full 36k-mile service/check. 30+ years of getting "classics" has given me a very little knowledge (what and when I remember) but also a lot of expensive experience, avoid the expensive bit and make use of my experience for free with the advice I've given. And keep on top of the servicing and maintenance, it's not really that much once you have the car reasonably sorted. I noticed it has the lights in the grille which I thought I had on one of my three Estelles but they're not on any of the photos I still have, they were an option IIRC. It might be my memory or because it's a later car than my three but I don't remember the dash being like that. I do remember all the storage space available, the front boot and the very useful out of sight behind the rear seats. I expect you've seen the Hubnut and others videos of driving Estelles, the Hubnut vid particularly is how you can drive them and have fun on interesting roads, get into the driving and away from carb-fiddling as soon as you can. Enjoy.

Just thought - you'd might(?) / probably(?) need the chipped key to turn the ignition on and get the alarm off.