nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Another point to be aware of from a 2006 to 2017 car is the battery state of charge, the more modern the more computer programs to get their knickers in a twist as the computers can play up with a car battery in a low state of charge even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough. This could work to your advantage if warning lights and messages are showing only because the battery is in a low state of charge but many think as the car starts and the lights seem bright enough that it can't be the battery. Conversely if the vehicles have been sitting around for a while then just driven very short show and park distances you may need to recharge the battery before plugging your scanner in to clear any error codes to see what codes remain after recharging and driving.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Ken, the Mikalor clamps are it, bit DIY but if they've lasted 13 years obviously a simple solution, often used and good enough. A bush and base clamping plates and bolts might have been more 'engineered' but I've no idea of space available for fixing. - https://www.jabbasport.com/products/jabbasport-rear-arb-fabia-vrs

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It looked to me that it might be the Mikalor Super Heavy Duty clamp but that only goes up to 80-85 (and W1 only). - https://mikalorcompany.com/hose-clamps-and-clips/high-pressure/super-heavy-duty-clamp Mikalor Supra might be an easier fit for the square shape than the Norma GBS but difficult to know until they're being fitted, Norma GBS I'd think would be stronger and longer lasting. Norma GBS datasheet pdf attached. I'd contact Jabba Sport and ask them what they last used or can suggest. - https://www.jabbasport.com/products/jabbasport-rear-arb-fabia-vrs NORMA-GBS-Datasheet-EN.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Those Mikalor are spot held where the hold can corrode and come apart, better maybe is the Norma GBS heavy duty W2 or W4 stainless steel with bent over locking ("Mechanically locked"). - https://www.normagroup.com/norma/en/products/norma-gbs/?open&ccm=020030 Just as an eBay UK seller example only (W2). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324657985550

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I agree, despite knowing car batteries are often changed far too prematurely and how to look after them (takes very, very little effort) and how to use and not abuse (far too much effort or different priorities for some) I changed the battery on my wife's Fabia Mk3 far too prematurely as I didn't want any hassle from the car battery and how my wife wants to use and abuse the battery and not to be summoned to sort out a breakdown from "battery failure" and explain why I'd allowed this to happen as car work is my job not hers and I know that. Different people have different priorities, my wife and I certainly as regards any car battery use, there's also the recharging of a battery that's been flattened many don't have the time or patience, despite it being vey easy work, to properly and fully recharge the battery - and of course batteries don't last forever.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Be interesting to know how you get on. I've edited a previous post as I'm not sure swapping to AGM is always a good move as there are more real world swings and roundabouts than I'd previously considered but I could be wrong at any stage or in any direction as I've been many times before and will be many times again.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. After years of being 'borrowed' by his son-in-law my elderly neighbour got his battery charger returned today, 8 amps and switchable normal fast charge, I'd just refitted his car battery after recharging it again for him, this time with my new RSC 804 charger/maintainer. It was one of these -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Is this why the the bolt holding the securing foot / bar clamp was at an angle (or perhaps a different physical size replacement battery from factory original). I found Halfords have a different battery number than Tayna for two Kias and an old Merc I've put batteries back into. With the Merc not only was the number different but the Halford battery had a second layer of plastic clamping foot bar on it which my neighbour didn't want me to remove so I spent 20 minutes getting the clamp to just about fit and securing bolt at an angle. First of the two Kias I used some texted rubber strip held on by bluetac (which is extremely strong but easy to remove) to pad out the gap to stop battery movement, on the second someone had already used some square rubber tubing that was effective for the purpose. Both Kias were Picantos but three years apart both with Halfords batteries which I guess were replacement sizes for the original factory ones. (36ah 330 CCA! and last for many years.) Do you know why you only got 4 years out of your previous battery?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Up to you but if you can I really suggest you find the time and if you can do it tonight that will at least give the battery x-hours charge before tomorrow's use, whilst the battery needs to be fully recharged putting more in will help as Tesco tell us. Number one cause of breakdown call out outs is battery (charging) issues and the vast majority are self inflicted by the driver, Sod's Law the breakdown rarely happens on a pleasant sunny day with the car in the pub's (other favoured places available) car park. Don't be tempted to do a quick charge particularly with a bigger charger unless you intend to change the battery sooner than latter, follow the advice in the Owner's Manual, if you don't have the paper printed copy you can download a pdf copy from the following link using your VIN from your V5C paper or other papers or using model and year the car was made. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you read the (whole) Owner's Manual and refer to it as required in future you will know more about your car than many long term owners. That was my point, but possibly best dealt with as another thread, why was it low, for how long, how much below min, etc., etc.. I've no idea what is taught now to learner drivers for passing the test as mine was done 45 years ago but for car use, servicing and maintenance the priorities are brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, blower, horn, etc.), and glass areas (see and be seen). Modern cars rely on the battery for most of these items - even if you can't start and drive the car you might want the hazard and other lights to be working. (ETA: forgot photo/image)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @benjman the 12v car battery is important to the car, if it is low but it still starts the car and the lights still seem to be bright the battery can still be low enough to cause all sorts computer / computer programs problems and your car battery is lower than that as it won't start the car. 11.9v is about 40% capacity, a new "12v" car battery fully will show 12.7v or more. Recharge your battery as low slow as you can, the battery only needs a 6 amp maximum charger but may take many hours to fully recharge and you do want it fully recharged. A higher quick charge won't be as good. Not fully recharging the battery will have you back with battery issues sooner. If your battery has the magic eye (green ball) take it with a pinch of salt, even if you tap the battery it might not give a true reading and it only relates to one of the 6 cells in your "12v" battery (6 x 2.1v = 12.6v). After charging my neighbour's (non-VW car) battery once the green ball disappeared to reappear after the next time I charged it, showed green yesterday with battery low at 12.2v (60% capacity), recharged the battery and after 17 hours of resting from being charged it showed 12.79v on my optimistic multimeter (the battery is 6 years old). Why was your low coolant warning bleeping? (If it wasn't because of low coolant then it might (or might not) be because the battery is low and messing with the sensor to computer/program.)

@Xhuy10nx have you tried resynchronising the windows as per the Owners Manual and fully recharged the battery rather than just a fast or quick charge or just driving the car to sort the battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you get the Pingi permanent bag type and put them on the dash place them indicator side down as the sun fades the bags - and don't like me reverse the colour code in your head (even though it's clearly displayed on the bag) and put them in the microwave dry as when you open the micro wave door little beads fall everywhere - didn't even have it for a week, I also learnt two were needed really.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. Well if it's the motor then good to get it replaced and dealer seems to have done well with their service, not something to be sneezed at.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @EmmaWil if you don't have the paper printed copy of the Owner's Manual you can get a pdf of it from the following link using your VIN, on your V5C keeper's paper and other paperwork and on the vehicle or look for the (part) year (it was built). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models ETA: if you read the Owner's Manual before or at the start of vehicle ownership and refer to it when required you will know more about your vehicle than many long term owners.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Saw a thread very recently on the same thing on here, sorry can't remember where, try the 'Search' and options top right of this page. Anything that upsets the computers and their programs and they will generally upset the car and you in expected and unexpected ways. Or in this case you could consider it a general electrical fault (from poorer design and build if you want). Others will not doubt be along to offer more help and solutions.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might also be weather related.* For things like door seals you could try putting something on the door/window rubbers which can generally help also as a form of lubricating. I use AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel or silicone oil, applied with a 35mm cube of sponge, or a silicone spray or GT-85. The GT85 can also be used for the jobs WD-40 is supposed to but the GT85 dies them better has PTFE and smells nice, use the WD-40 on garden tools left in the shed over winter. Or if you're a VW fanatic stuff like one from Krytox or as they used to recommend a product called Gummi Pflege, which I discovered was just German for Rubber Care. You could also consider lower tech (possibly more reliable) solutions like Pingi dehumidifier bags left in the car and a (clean) slightly moist bagged synthetic-chamois * Weather - yesterday I noticed my neighbour's car windows were covered on the inside with dense condensation like I've never seen in the 17 years it's been parked in the same spot, thought I'd investigate this morning between showers but when I looked out the window the car windows were completely clear. For the last few winters I've seen moss on our rear 'garden' path that wasn't there in the nearly 40 previous years and it was there earlier this winter and a different type of moss to before. Not everything is solved instantly at the push of a button as many (hopefully younger) modern car drivers seem to think.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. See classic's posy of 2 February and Xmans's of 3rd February, plus a battery in low state of charge (but the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warnings) can cause all sorts of odd problems so check the battery a couple of hours after the car has parked up, engine not running, and that battery and earth connections are all tight and in good condition. auotomass put about start/stop and Kizotina about having a/c on both of these might (or might not) relate to low battery charge. If the battery is low fully recharge it not just top it up and just driving it often isn't sufficient to fully recharge. As automass has found a scanner can introduce issues and worries, another computer program on top of all the ones in the car that can have faults, issues and brain-farts, as with everything best not to rely on just one source of information and get other conformation. You would hope higher level garage and certainly Dealership scan tools would have less errors and issues. The scanners need regular updating and certainly before use on the vehicle. I'm not sure that leaving any scanner connected all the time is a good idea, if only for the fact of automass's experience.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The gauge is biased to be at the reading of '90', I guess the idea is to give reassurance to most drivers who would worry at seeing needle movement and unsure what temperature is ok for what conditions, the same as removing numbers from gauges in the 1960s and 70s and then removing any other indication except 'C' and 'H' and perhaps blue and red sections at the extremes of the range. Whilst not disregarding the 'water' temperature gauge I prefer to use the oil temperature gauge to see when the engine is fully warmed and perhaps getting warmer when the water gauge remains nailed at '90'. (white dots in centre of gauge are for manufacturer's calibration testing, such as it was)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I missed the differences in the heat air-con system names. As you probably already know Haynes do tend to have occasional errors and omissions but I've no idea about with Fabia. With this age of car and newer an appropriate bidirectional scan tool is often needed to help sort things and speed up diagnosis hopefully the garage will have one and be able to identify the issue quickly. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you check your battery state of charge anyway? Always best to have the battery well or fully charged before fault finding on electrical or starting issues as this will help and a battery in low state of charge possibly hinder or prevent full diagnosis or resolve. Just in case, Radio and Television Investigation Service Problems with DAB radio reception. - "NOTE: Sorry, the tool currently only checks for BBC transmitter faults and known issues". - https://radioandtvhelp.co.uk/problems-with-digital-radio-dab-reception/#/DAB Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This type of thing is a get you out of trouble sort of device more for getting the car started than really charging the flat battery. One way to kill a dying battery is to charge it too high and fast though this (pdf attached) Streetwise unit shows it's 10amp and "Typical charge time will take approximately 15 minutes, but no more than 45 minutes" - so not instant as some may want. It seems a little bit Peter robbing Paul to me but it shows - . "it will show the recipient vehicle’s battery capacity in %." . "Please Note: If the display does not show any figure, the recipient vehicle’s battery is defined as dead, it cannot be recharged. Please call for the technician for new battery replacement." - You would have to ask the manufacturer what they define as dead, some modern chargers give up on a battery far too easily where an old charger will be able to revive that battery. . "the display will show the charging level going up. Charge until it shows over 20%." - 20% . "Press the button “O” position again, when the display keeps over 20% means it’s ready to start" - so when over 20% you can start but the battery will still need further charging and just driving the vehicle may not be enough to fully recharge the battery and a full recharge is needed otherwise you could soon be back to square one, repeatedly if the battery doesn't get a full recharge. It's a quick partial fix and good to perhaps get you out of trouble but it's not something you should need to use often, or at all for yourself with just if required using an appropriate charger/maintainer as prevention/preparation perhaps two or three times a year if required (start of winter, end of winter, perhaps as winter tyres are fitted and removed if used and just after extreme hot summer weather spell). https://www.streetwizeaccessories.com/files//85150602-97e8-408f-89b9-a7bb00f5afc6/SWCG Manual.pdf SWCG Manual.pdf

Bugger that for car-farting-about in foul weather, I'd just listen to FM, or long wave if I felt nostalgic - AM for whistles and fading, makes Gold sound more authentic for those that like vinyl scratches and jumps. 😄 Perhaps done when listening to a bit of Queen, I'm in love with my car. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at your Owner's Manual for advice on charging the battery and use an appropriate battery charger (+ maintainer). Car batteries are probably the most oversold car part, RAC will sell you one if you've got a flat tyre! - BUT - many driver's now so use, abuse and neglect the car's battery and it is so important to modern cars that often the best remedy is just to replace even if it's premature for the battery. I've revived a few "dead" car batteries but in the same way people tell you "the battery is good" when it isn't also a "dead" battery may be only dying and might be saverable. Main problem is that it usually involves two things many people don't have one or both of - time and patience. I put a charger maintainer on to the 18-month old AGM of my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 in December as a preventative measure, no signs (or warnings) what so ever that the battery was at all low from the car, it took 17 hours to fully recharge it (on the car, outside, at -3.5c at one point, 12v winter setting* - *usually used at ambient +5c and below, but check specs). I used the Ring RSC804 4 amp (that's all you need, up to 90Ah) Battery Charger & Maintainer, £23.49 - other chargers at other prices available.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 20+ years ago I bought a portable stereo (two attached speakers) DAB radio because the mains only single speaker stereo (plug in add on Aux Speaker) DAB needed a nearby electric socket or extension reel, second radio needed IIRC six 'C' cell batteries, volume set to halfway the batteries lasted 45 minutes - DAB was very power hungry, it might still be, which would relate to battery power consumption. My 1986 (back when all 'The Sun' readers in the UK took the **** out of Skoda) Estelle had the aerial in the heated rear window and that interfered with the radio when switched on (forget if AM or FM or both). Perhaps it is something to do with the radio then and you need someone like @varooom or @pab567 to say if this is a known fault and the remedy, putting the @ in front of their handles(?) gives them a "shout out" as I believe young people might (still?) say. PS - regardless now is a good time to check your car battery - and I've a third newer DAB portable radio, no where near as good sound quality because of the plastic case instead of veneer cabinet of the other two despite still costing a bit of an arm & leg (six 'C' cell). Is varooom here yet(?).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just been out to check, engine off, DAB radio on, sidelights on to see illuminated switches, heated rear screen on, plus I noticed the heated door mirrors setting had been left on (that's tomorrow's first discussion when we get in the car sorted). DAB radio worked fine, no difference when I turned the heated door mirrors or rear screen off. Have you checked the charge in your car battery with an appropriate battery tester tool or multimeter a couple of hours after the car was parked up? (ETA: no radio pic on your post that I can see but don't worry about that for now.)