nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's seems very good value to me. To save some necks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's a great outcome. Of course, as always, the better-half was right and has been proven so, again. 😊

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If your friend is the type to have everything then hopefully the charger is appropriate for a stop/start EFB battery on it's arse and the voltmeter a good accurate reliable one, in which case don't fall out with them. My advice is that you have the opportunity to recharge your (tight-fisted VW) EFB factory battery on a long low and slow recharge, rejuvenate or whatever else the charger might call it, 7 stages at least to keep up with the Joneses. My wife's 18-month old AGM battery wasn't anywhere near showing any signs on the car of being low and had longer journeys that usual the previous two weeks before I finally was able to get hold of it to do a preventative (my hassle battery charger recharge, first time ever in 45 years of car ownership but we've never owned a VW before). It took 17 hours mostly in freezing fog in the balmy temperature of -1.7c when I checked. Personally I'd be really ****ed off not to get the battery back to use but I'd happily keep the AGM battery and pass on VW's not so finest. Do bear in mind even if the EFB battery shows full charge , after say 2-3 hours of rest, better still with some load to take off any surface charge left, that doesn't tell you how much of the original cranking power is still left in the battery to start the engine. Ask your friend to lend you his battery analyser (and why didn't he offer it before, some sort of friend, don't they trust you with it 😄) you could also test on your car. Good luck, and what's your friend's phone number?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Mini, not E-Type.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry my intention wasn't to say having it on maintain was bad and couldn't or shouldn't be done rather that for the 'average' owner that intends to use the car regularly it's better to cycle the use of the car and battery. I think you have just about knocked the ball out of the park with providing "appropriate". Running the engine for an hour on idle to keep a battery charged is totally beyond me as is only driving a car every 6 months but it's different strokes for different folks and each to their own. Why didn't you just disconnect the battery, security, insurance, drive in a garden, I've only got hard (luck) standing. You can thank me I've got my troll as I dread to think what he'd make of this - but as its you and not me it might well pass easily . 😆

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Blimey it must be something in the water here. I have found with old cars you can not rely on anything being as factory or to factory standard, if you tell me the pan can not be painted gloss I will take your word for it. I am not sure everyone with the excitement of playing around with sexy toys and their cars would rush to get to the ground and under the car to wipe off possibly dirty gritty oil with all the other possibly contaminants that might be there (dog hairs perhaps 😉 ) but I'm sure R_Blue keep our reminders to mind. The inaccuracies and unreliability might not be as wide as a nuclear cloud drifting across, its only going to give a rough idea to one point anyway. Your eyes would swivel in your head looking at some oil temperature gauges under some car use. It's more often just another thing to worry about that wasn't a worry before. Whoever needs or wants all the extra stuff that most owners do without then that is their choice. Obviously they have much more storage space than I, obviously. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes I should perhaps the 20w and 50 of 20w50 multigrade oil I was being more descriptive than technical and the SAE but for those really interested, the site is out of date but the principles apply. - https://www.kewengineering.co.uk/Auto_oils/oil_viscosity_explained.htm

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You shouldn't need a new battery but you might it depends on the use of the vehicle and if yours is still an EFB one from factory or previous owner(s), garage/Dealership swaps ot use and abuse.. If you're getting a new battery get an AGM* and get a good quality one, varooom is good with such advice. * ETA: I'm not sure now that it's always best to go from EFB to AGM, depends on circumstances

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @numskull just in case I didn't make myself clear to you. If you recharge the battery with a battery charger now and in future when appropriate, rather than trying to make up too larger battery deficit by just driving as many think, and use the battery charger maintainer when appropriate you could get a lot more life from the battery. Or you can go by the same as VW put in their Owner's Manuals and perhaps the advice of the RAC man. My troll has very selective reading and understanding of my posts but whilst he's bothering me he's not bothering others, I accept it for all my bad deeds in past lives. 🤣 Troll- la-lol. 🤣 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Wow, what wind-chill factor have you got where you're driving or the car is parked! At 4 years you'd hope the antifreeze element of the coolant was still working, you can test it anyway, with traditional coolant it used to be the antifreeze part that lasted longer than the other parts but as VW keep changing their minds on which coolants they insist on you'll have to look on the plastic expansion er, vessel(?), to see which G?? (?) yours might be, for its specs.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best you could do then and old cars are often hibernated for many months but the battery is designed to be cycled so normal use is helpful. As I put I've yet to discover how to test these batteries best and don't know where to find the info, I might contact some manufactures once the Xmas and New Year madness is well passed.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 12.4 is fine for AGM. That I don't know about and hope someone else can tell us. Also it may depend on how the 350 was arrived at, tester set for AGM / stop-start and I don't know whatever might be significant to the testing and result.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I wasn't thinking of the weight/(multi)grade but the quality, properties and additives package of the oil. Bear in mind both the 20w and 50 are in ranges so one oil called 20W could be a different weight grade to another and same for the 50. The better oils will more consistently remain at whatever weight/grade they are and for longer. As an example, it was said, no proof, a certain 10w-60 would with use drop into the 50 range. A 60 might be used instead of a 50 by those that put greater stress on the engine and or for hotter weather use. The old British cars I had specified 20w-50 but I used to use a 15w-50 "Motorsport" version and would have used a 10w-50 or 5w-50 had they been about and good quality because I used my cars through winter and they all always sit outside as I do not have a garage. I think R-Blue for now at least should stay with whatever oil weight/(multi)grade Skoda specified for his location. You would know better than me but with the laser thermometers you also have to allow for (sorry I forget the word) but the reading being from shiny metal such as a painted pan and or covered in oil, plus you always need to test the accuracy of any test equipment before conducting the test, I have seen some quote some very strange figures from using an infrared thermometer. When I was lent one I found it to be a bit inconsistent with its readings but that might have been my use or it was unreliable or a combination of both. Over here the position or placement of the front number plate can make a difference to cooling. On a tour one chap had the number plate in a good place but had fitted the tour's rally plaque at the front partially blocking the hole to the radiator on a fibreglass Cobra replica. The fibreglass body combined with a 7 litre American V8 engine and hot summer weather already did not help with cooling and the oil cooler was not best positioned. But just moving the rally plaque helped to calm the driver's temperature gauge anxiety. Some people do not drive their cars enough to really know or understand the car and how to drive it.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Drain the oil out as hot/warm as possible/sensible. When it gets to the drips pour say around 250ml of fresh clean new warmed oil in and let it drain straight out as a mini flush. Synthetic oils generally handle the heat (as in your climb) and the cold better and protect for longer so unless the synthetic oils is more than twice the price of the ELF Evolution or Castrol GTX 20W50 LPG as you are changing it once instead of twice overall it is costing you no more money. Like all oils some synthetics are better than others but as with many items there are diminishing returns as you go up in quality and price but if you are prepared to buy in advance you may be able to take advantage of lower prices at certain times or circumstances.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think you might be better using a better and more suitable oil for your use and do thorough ('hot' and long drains rather than 'cold' and quick) oil and filter changes every 10,000 km same or lot less cost and less work and probably more effective for use and maintenance. Yes but the engine will not be brand new, reliably warranted, easy to install and maintain, fit and forget for very many years, reliable performance improvement including perhaps some fuel economy. But I understand about the cost, you have to consider the benefits and how long you keep the car and how much you use it. Redone the figures for tyre size. 3rd - 3,000 / 61 kph - (1,987 / 40 kph) 4th - 3,000 / 83 kph - (2,195 / 61 kph) 5th - 3,000 / 109 kph - (2,320 / 83 kph) 3rd - 5,000 / 103 kph - (3,312 / 67 kph) 4th - 5,000 / 140 kph - (3,658 / 103 kph) 5th - 5,000 / ---------- - (3,867 / 140 kph) Also discovered graphs lower down the page where I had never ventured before.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. With those results you might want to think about keeping the battery and changing the car! 🤣 If you recharge the battery with a battery charger now and in future when appropriate, rather than trying to make up too larger battery deficit by just driving as many think, and use the battery charger maintainer when appropriate you could get a lot more life from the battery. You will need to abuse the battery a lot more and perhaps nearer the end of your membership cover for the year, or future year(s). Follow the RAC advice and you should be OK battery wise for your upcoming trip. Good luck and enjoy your trip.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Up to you if you want to believe me and or check further but I have twice had incandescent bulbs that worked intermittently and a plastic blade fuse. Swap the fuses with ones of the same amperage on items you definitely know are working as a double check. And yes check the battery after it has rested as you are better to recharge it before the battery gets too low and causes all sorts of computer and computer program issues and warnings even if the car starts and the lights look bright enough and often just driving the car the will not sufficiently recharge the car an appropriate battery might be needed. Just see the threads for such multiple now the bad weather is finally here after an extreme summer weather (in some parts of the UK at least) that was not good for batteries and charging systems. Prevention is better than cure, frost and battery. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The RAC are very keen to sell batteries, too keen, and are expensive but if you have the cover, up to you if you want to breakdown at your own inconvenience, many batteries given sufficient charge (time and patience) can be recovered and made to last longer or a lot longer - but not if they're been flogged too near to death or too many times. You are breaking down at the same time as many others with battery neglect so it depends on how popular or not your battery is and the RAC van stock levels. Don't worry you will be one of very many now, the RAC man will tell you that, 'ow's your c/heating? 😁 More info here, good luck. - https://www.rac.co.uk/batteryfittingservice#:~:text=The RAC battery fitting service,you – usually within 30 minutes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great stuff I love an easy inexpensive fix, especially if it keeps your hands clean and from too much farting about on cars, not very technically sexy but a lot of that is ego stuff. Start very simple and move on if needed, in which case I'm lost. If you read and refer to the Owner's Manual you'll know a lot more about your car than many long term owners. See if there any stuff in the next two videos you don't yet know or have forgotten about. Skoda Fabia Mk3: Tips & Handy Features Part 1 Skoda Fabia Mk3: Tips & Handy Features Part 2

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @R_Blue my post wasn't meant to be entirely serious, other than pets getting feed rubbish food that means they do not always have good coats and skin and shed a lot. I'd no idea what slobs and litterers you have, fur/hair even from poorly feed animals squashes down to next to nothing to take very little waste bin space. I think protecting your own health is pretty important but there are limits but as with car problems health problems need proper diagnosis from the experts I can one-thousand-percent tell you that from personal experience. Separately, only yesterday my wife told me of her friend's husband who had collapsed they thought with Anaphylactic shock and was under hospital care. He as a young lad had seen his father suffer the same thing from mushrooms so all his life he would not touch mushrooms and so neither does his own daughter. He was tested for food allergies and from what my wife was told it was practically all foods - but not including mushrooms! That night my wife went to an Xmas meal and for decades she has got a sniffy or running nose from eating or drinking but now it's from first thing when she gets up in the morning. An ex-dentist was at the meal and noticed the use of tissues and said it was not uncommon and to deep breath menthol before even getting out of bed. She has not had the opportunity to to get any to try. So get tested, it might be dog hairs and other crap your residents think of as city life or it might be something else or that and something else. Yeah and do you get your money back if it doesn't work after a nebular explosion. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good to know. Unfortunately VW/Skoda fitted EFB to the Fabia Mk3, at least from my wife's car and what I've seen, or remember, from here. Just my luck when I changed the battery on my wife's car 18months ago it was more expensive than now as there was a rash of VW/Skoda owners with failing batteries so I read here. I broke my own rule and changed the battery well before needed to cover my own more important rules of not farting about with a (second) car and making sure my wife has no hassles so doesn't pass on the hassles to me. -1.7c now and still showing 12.8V. I can't sleep as I'm so worried about the battery charger and someone stealing it. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for your reply. A lot of people think that, some even know it but bear in mind the battery is just like a bank account you have to make sure the outgoings don't entirely depleted what saved and put in otherwise things don't go so well. I was thinking very occasional charging rather periodic, of course it might step up a bit as the battery and charging system and car age, when you change the battery only that is new. You've got flashing lights and the battery is struggling to start, perhaps it still would have had it been charged fully with an appropriate battery charger but too late to know now unless you were monitoring the battery during driving. Fair enough, but your dad's car is at least 14 year old when the electricery was less complicated and (VW particularly) computer programs were less complex, intertwined and invasive, his car might have less eclectic bits on it and no start/stop. Some only seem to expect a few years out of a car battery now so you've done well to get over 5 in that respect - however your dad got 14.5 years so perhaps you should let him drive your car - only joking. 😄 Again thanks for your replies, have a good 'un, cheers. ETA: the charger/maintainer still shows 12.8v after nearly 7 hours, perhaps the display has frozen the weather has gone down to -1c now but at least the charger is still there (feels colder than -1c though).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Not to me. 😄 Have you done any full battery recharges with an appropriate battery charger or just driving the car as you do so many miles? I'm all for getting as much out of the battery as possible but some do seem to drive them into the ground, and without ceremony. 🙂 Personally I don't run a battery too low and never would attempt to on a modern VW (or other German marques) because of their evil computer programs, particular VW. You are covered more than most as you can clear any stored or building codes but for those without they can gang up. Personally any electronics I'm wary of when it gets cold as they often don't like it but I feared to question the glorious VCDS as it usually has very loyal supporters. Do you know for sure if 20 minutes is long enough and everything turns off, I know some posters have used cheap or second hand monitoring systems that record the car's electrical activity when used and parked up, I've no idea how long a 2017 VW would be awake or doing stuff with itself after being parked but would be curious as my wife has a 2015 VW product (I know different marque, model and year, just interested). I got the new charger/maintainer on my wife's car on it's return about 5.30pm today to our hard (luck) standing, only about -0.5c outside then so well within the -20c operating temperature (and this summer we had 40.2C so just above its +40c operating), set it to 12v winter and 5 hours later it's still showing 12.8v , -0.1c now so it's warmed up outside. When it's finished it will show "FUL" and go to maintain mode so I and others can sleep easy knowing the battery will come to harm. I just hope no one steals my new charger/maintainer.

I do not know about Amsoil but the British blend I used in my road-only old banger is sold as "Classic Sport High Performance 20w50" with - " Intended for use in arduous applications such as sustained fast road use, track and motorsport. Suitable for operating at 125°C with peak temperatures up to 150°C." - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/classic-sport-high-performance-20w50/

toot, I'm not a fan of space savers especially as most (all?) cars now have oversized wheels and tyres so often the spacer saver tyre is so narrow compared to the standard wheels I think often they're barely suitable to get you to the next place of safety let alone home or as some do use them for a lot longer after fitting. I would remove a space saver from a boot as the extra room in the boots I had was of much more use that a tyre to get me a short distance and removing it and the wheel changing kit also saved a bit of weight for me to have a bigger snack. Many years back now I sold a 25 year old unused spare wheel and tyre once and latter the person bought the car off me (and really done it up well and used and showed it). And you have reminded me I still have a, full sized, spare in the shed, 3.5" steel wheel with a very good 145/80 r13 tyre, must get shot of that. I had a Mk2 MX-5 when they were new, the 1.6 so only about 100hp that had a space saver that I fitted and even on the front just driving normally through town at 30mph and less I could feel the difference on breaking and I had the standard steel wheels on that (the only MX-5 the Dealership had ever seen remain on its steel wheels, that rusted first winter but had a 3-year warranty so I didn't care) and normally sized tyres. The tyres were Yoko and too good for fun so I swapped them (in the days when I could afford to do such) for tyres with less dry grip but more wet grip. You might like this, forget the editing of facts, I don't know if the spare wheel was put on this or remained on the Laser, the car was in much better condition than when I passed it on and another turn of the odometer since with certainly the last I heard and saw it, before Covid, in daily use still and kept to show standard. - https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/influx/features/legend-ford-capri/