nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes that's the point as I see it, the article is explaining the limitation, a couple of millimetres, not 12. I'm familiar with (steel) wheels of 100 mm PCD being fitted by mistake to 4" PCD (101.6 mm) (but not with the silly bloody bolts that VW use though but wheel studs).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's what the (article in the) link was suggesting (not that I'd ever heard of wobble bolts before that I can remember).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. With the lights on try pushing the light switch in towards the dash - the Owner's Manual is often your friend but you do have to read it and refer to it when required. If you don't have your copy of the printed paper version, or in addition, you can download a pdf version from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Normally you're best to post in the section for your model and year for such enquiries. ETA: has now been moved. Hopefully a quick, easy, free repair in the warm and without getting your hands dirty, the only type of repair and work on a car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. From the 2015 Owner's Manual - fuse "11 Headlight cleaning system", pdf copy of manuals from the following link if you've not got your paper printed copy. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I expected that to be the case. Compared with areed's head even after being skimmed yours is a lot better for corrosion.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you have access to a scan tool? ETA: Perhaps a good (landscape) photo of your engine bay are particularly the battery and connections and the earth to body might help to pick something out.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you know how often over the car's 24 years the coolant was changed as the corrosion protection element of the coolant goes before the antifreeze element does and often the coolant is not changed if the antifreeze part passes perhaps a once in a year, or longer, test, if ever tested.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good news about not having stop/start (potentially dodged a few bullets there). I would have suggested and go along with the good advice you have been given to just remove the fuse and see what happens, that way if you want the alarm system back hopefully you can just put the fuse back in. You could store it in a slot for spare fuses in the box that way you know you have a spare fuse of that amperage that at least worked last time it was used. Always check and cross-reference any information you get from any source me especially, I have a bad memory and get things wrong. In the table example you've posted (I didn't follow the hyperlink) it has "Fuse position 46 Anti-theft alarm system 15 Amperes (A)" yet the photo you put up has a 20 amp fuse in the marked 46 position. Just in case you don't have the correct Owner's Manual for your car you can get a pdf copy from the following link but note what I put before about the diagram for my wife's 2015 Fabia. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Nothing wrong with Halfords for 12v car batteries but I've found before they used different battery numbers to others and when I fitted a Halfords own battery to my neighbour's car it had an extra layer of foot bar which my neighbour didn't want me to remove so I had to adapt (file elongate the hole in the clamping plate) for a not so nice fit and the battery number was different and battery slightly smaller than I'd have suggested but my neighbour had used the Halford look up system correctly. If you wanted to fit the battery yourself you could try Tayna who normally deliver the next day if you order before 6.30 pm but I've no idea at the moment, I'd ring and confirm if I was in a hurry for the battery what with the recent cold snap for stock levels, strikes and this end of year Xmas and New Year stuff. Unless you're not going to have the car in a few years and will be using it regularly on reasonable distance journeys with no excessive battery use for plug-ins I'd not suggest going for a minimum requirement battery, a better battery will generally give better performance but that doesn't always mean it's reflected in the retail price, a good battery is a good battery regardless of selling price. Breezy-Pete is a good person to help you with other electrical issues too but you'd help yourself and others if you put up more information about your model, for your current issues and perhaps future issues. Good luck, new batteries in the remote(s) and car will help rather than hinder with any electrical issues and a good base to begin from.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Car 12v batteries are probably the most oversold car part, the RAC seem to try to sell you one if you have a flat tyre. I'm big on where appropriate battery charger recharging rather than just hoping just driving will do the trick but better still where appropriate preventative battery charger charging. But in your case I think replacing the battery for new is a good measure given the history of the car. If your car is electric power steering then that will be affected by a battery in low state of charge. As the extreme heat isn't good for the battery neither is the extreme cold. I've no idea if the steering also has a switch issue but a battery in good state of health and charge will help rather than hinder electric power steering. Passenger side items might be wires or connectors or other but a good battery in a good state of health and charge with help rather than hinder. I'm not sure what the fuse actually controls, good on you for consulting the the Owner's Manual but unfortunately these are not as good as they could or should be, my wife's gives an incorrect diagram and I've seen others here put the fuses aren't as straight forwardly labelled as they should be. I'd not advise you to remove the alarm fuse for insurance reasons, instead synchronise the remotes and as soon as possible/convenient replace the batteries and synchronise the remotes again, it's seconds of light work. Now if you have a stop/start car that will have a stop/start battery and we enter a quick world of more fun. On your details you can enter more about the model of your car, see mine for example, a diesel will normally have a 'bigger' battery than a petrol for example.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You thrown a curve ball in by saying you have another minor electrical problem because that might be relevant. Without that I'd start with batteries, the car 12v battery wants to be in a good state of charge and the battery(s) in your remote control(s) need to be good, check these batteries. Personally as it's no cost, quick and easy (and no dirt on the hands) I would synchronise of the remote control(s) whether I changed the battery(s) or not in case one of the VW computer programs has got it's knickers in a twist. The Owner's Manual isn't plaain English on this (no surprise really) to synchronise you push any button on the remote and then within one minute unlock the door using the keyblade, not exactly hard work to try. The stupid car thinks you are are trying to steal it but it should have been OK as long as you got the keyblade in the ignition lock and switch the ignition on within 15 seconds after opening the door. If you have let your car 12v battery run down then this might not help with the alarm but it might be your alarm battery, cheaper and easier to try is as I've put. Have a look in your Owner's Manual for fuse allocation - but don't dismiss your car 12v car battery being low just because it starts and the lights seem bright enough especially if yours is a stop/start model, this summer's extreme heat of 30c and 40c wasn't good for batteries or charging systems and if issues haven't already shown they could well now the cold is here. Of course the other minor electrical issue might relate to your alarm issue or be separate or both possibly be related to the battery(ies) - what is this other minor electrical issue?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. UP on those eBay links if you want to you could save screen space and virtual ink by ending the link at the end of the itm (item) number, i.e. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225262586674 and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232532901817

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes, most likely. Charging it sooner and fully might have given better results and even longer battery life than you got but you done better than would be expected already - and we're all older and wiser now (well older at least). I think you might be a convert to the importance of the 12v battery to a car especially modern cars and especially with the likes of VW products. Some say all you need do is drive the car for charging the battery, which is fine if you have shares in 12v car battery manufacturing. 😄 Your original battery was originally on a brand new car so should last the longest but given your past achievements and new experience and knowledge I bet you can get even longer out of your new battery. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unless that's where the gauge normally shows for charged that's no where near ready for mating up to the car, bit more effort and patience required, no wham-bam-thank-you-mam, it's not teenage years stuff now.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Take multimeter showings with a pinch of salt, a mate asked me to take my optimistic multimeter over to compare against his old two and new one he just bought that showed lower than the two existing, all four showed different figures mine was near but above his original two and all three reasonable close but his new one was lower by a margin. Looks very nice and very good intentions for you by Mrs Gaz - but you can get more on an oval plate and that looks far too health for what it is . 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look here for your model and year (assuming the information is correct, always double/treble check). - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/superb/ Bloody silly fashion for oversized wheels, a car like a Superb could be on 15" depending on its brakes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Let the 'fun' begin, sooner you than me but I am sure you will enjoy it (for the most part). Be interesting to see which new parts are better than factory and which are not as good. The hose was a lucky find. If you can get a silicone set with proper s/s clips all the better. Good time to thoroughly clean out and service the whole 'water' cooling/heating system too. A can of GT85 would probably help with some further disassembly of mechanical and electrical. Check all new parts before taking out of the packaging if possible, check the label for correct parts and code numbers. I have had parts sent from the manufacturer and not realised or found out they were wrong or faulty until fitted and test/used. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes thanks, behind the green scrapper but it's not my car so it doesn't matter what I'd prefer. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Garages can be colder and damper inside than the outside, that no way to treat an old friend like Stanley! If it's +5c in the garage that's reasonable for the battery and charger, keep going slow and steady. I think it could take and hold the full charge, as much as it would be for a 9 year old battery that's been left to discharge anyway and even if it's lost a lot of it's cranking ability it could continue to start the Juke. It's surprising how much abuse some batteries seem to be able to take. Sure if it left as it was at some stage you might be charging it again but if you get to it before it gets too low you might see year(s) rather weeks or months out of John the battery. Just get it fully charged and not overcharged rather than just partially charge, judgement call with old standard charger as the new "smart" ones with drop to a maintenance once the battery is fully charged meaning you don't need to worry about leaving it and it overcharging. As you've show yours I'll show my old charger, well from the 1990s (or perhaps late 80s I forget), and well it's not mine but a photo from the almost world wide intraweb, it's still going strong and used very recently, well it might not be as strong as it was but it's still going.. Prove the doubters wrong, make Stanley and John proud.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would prefer 14" wheels on the Fabia, it's not a heavy car (for a VW at least), I still think of 70 as low profile. 😄 185/60r15 on my wife's car, set to Eco tyre pressure was good to lower rolling resistance but you could notice it in the driving and as passenger, standard 30 psi seems better to us. Ride obviously also depends on the particular tyres, age, wear, etc.. But I'm sure a VW would have made improvements over a 2015 car as German engineering quality has it, IIRC 'S' was poverty spec for 2015. I had a 1999 MX-5 1.6, only one the Dealership had even seen leave on steel wheels, they rusted the first winter, but as the chap there said don't change until towards the end of the three year warranty as the replacement rusted just as quick, the only fault, I expect the steel wheels were British made. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The frozen motor not being able to work probably saved the fuse. All's well that ends well.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best to check the battery, even if it's not the problem it could be a problem and a contributing problem.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Keeping on a low rate of charge, (2, 3 4 amps) there's no rush but it might take a couple of days. Switch it off after it's picked up a bit and let it rest for 30 minutes or thereabouts or how you feel and switch back on to charge. You might try this again later or not depending on how you feel. I give the battery about 75% chance (or more) but it depends on how you do, 😄 do you keep patience in stock. If it's stop/start and EFB battery you're not supposed to go above 14.8v charge and not overcharge it, and some would say you need an appropriate charger but keep your eye on things and all will end well as you're going. I've been charging my neighbours batteries for decades now but some have now got these stop/start things with the computer programs and EFB batteries. I charged a very old battery that was being used for garage lighting for a neighbour as he just leaves it lying on the sub-zero garage floor. It had a dry cell too but he had some of the right water. I didn't use my 30+ year old 4 amp charger but my 20+ year old "smart" charger/maintainer, it got the battery to just about full charge but the cranking power was still low so we tried his 12 amp charger/analyser as I was using it to check the battery I put the 12 amp charger to "Recondition mode", it killed the battery the charge decreased to below 12v. I get the **** taken out of me (which is fine, sometimes good) for putting it's best to do a long low slow charge and off the car in my stable (and warm at the moment) conditions. IIRC batteries like +5c to +20c and for charging they don't like 30c and even more 40c so that extreme summer weather would have weaken batteries that now fall over in the cold weather. My wife's Fabia Mk3 had a new AGM battery about 18 months ago and although she does a lot of short journeys last few weeks she's been getting in 2 or three longer shopping runs. No signs or inclination that the battery needed charging but I wanted prevention and not cure and to try out my new (£23.49) smart charger as it does AGM and operates down to -20C. Only -2c but the 18 month old AGM battery on the car with no signs of at all of battery being a bit low - took 17 hours in total to fully recharge. I'm changing to 95% you can do it, I've had two failures so nothing's a 100% but you might be better than me, I'm no expert. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Washer fluid frozen?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I found the Owner's Manual drawing for the fusebox in the engine bay didn't match what was in my wife's car when sorting the wiper arm stalk. According to to our 2015 Owner's Manual the fusebox in the cabin for a RHD car has top row far right fuse as fuse "22 Front- and rear windscreen wiper system" and bottom row about middle of row fuse "46 Front and rear window washer, operating lever under the steering wheel" - very unhelpfully they don't give amp rating or colour.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've no idea about equipment level and options/extras on 2018-20, I've a 2016 catalogue and that's it but if you can source the catalogue on the net all the various tables are there, or others might be along with the information. Personally I'd not buy a car made during the Covid and chip shortages period - others which such cars may know better and disagree as it's only my personal view - and I'd look at earlier models with 4-cylinders to avoid the later regulations. I'm not against 3-cylinders and have owned a few from and in 90s and start of this century but apart from one unusual one they were Japanese with (real) good built quality engines. toot does VW's history with 3-cylinders go back beyond very recent years?