nta16

Sorry, wouldn't the principles still apply, I don't know much about German ideas and ways of doing things though I do remember the original VW Beetles were 6v (well, IIRC that is). 1989 136 stays into the Favorit so as it's also busier there you might be better asking there (assuming, always dangerous, that the alternator with separate regulator was in that model). - Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/

@Luck Not necessarily for the current things but other stuff, I don't know if you've seen the following or if the bits are still about but used factory can often be better than some new made parts new. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535958-felicia-pickup-spares-or-repair-offers-please/#comment-5977371

Not for the current things but other stuff, I don't know if you've seen the following or if the bits are still about but used factory can often be better than some new made parts new. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535958-felicia-pickup-spares-or-repair-offers-please/#comment-5977371

Hi, welcome. Quick Google search gave this for general stuff - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ3yMv0O70I For general principles (on Lucas but principles remain) (part one) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPmk2FXs_18 Part Two - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMgRfToSiLY HTH.

Hi, welcome. Does this fully cover - checked the battery terminals and terminal clamps for being clean and fully secure? checked the power and earth main cables and their connections for being clean, secure (and protected)? You might have already seen there's a relay on a board that doesn't like to work in colder weather, on IIRC 2018 models generally I think, and there are posts (and a thread?) on here where a member repaired this for himself and other where the Dealership has replaced the board. If you haven't already seen them have a look for them and a reads up of them. Just out of curiosity, wots dat den? (The Fabia pdf wiring diagram I have is over 2,700 pages with no index or jump links.)

Well done and thanks for reporting back. Sod's Law about being ill on Xmas Day. I've no idea about this part but generally be careful of who/where you order from but even good parts suppliers stock crap, p1ss-poor parts as regardless of the trusted parts manufacturers' label on the box or bag the part could be from the same actual manufacturer source. When you get the new part thoroughly inspect it for quality and fit, before fitting it and don't throw away the existing part until after many successful months of use of the new part in case you have to swap the old part back on the car. The chaps here will know about specific new parts quality. Good luck.

As VW took over (fully?) in 1991 a Škoda badged car is a VW regardless of the parts originality and design originality VW were free to improve the model (more), or change the model if they wanted, VW are responsible for the manufacturer as Škoda was then and is now one of their brands so to me it's a VWŠkoda and a product of VW (or VAG as they might have been then) the badge makes no odds to who the owner was and is. We owned Škodas when VW were involved with them and IIRC VW officially owners of Škoda and they made changes to the friendly back-street Dealers of the time imposing VW's will and ways, they made it clear they were the owner of their Škoda brand, I remember that. As you have an interest in history and politics you will know why in much a earlier time the Germans were interested in Škoda and probably the British Army bloke that rescued VW for it to survive and thrive into the 21st century. Nope that sweet FA to do with pick-up fuel consumption. IIRC venting was covered twice, now three times, by now three different posters, for fuel consumption the garage found a misfire and Luck is getting a new coil pack. Of course, this may or may not be the whole cause of any increased fuel consumption but reasonable correct measurement and calculation(s), in whatever format, MPG or l/100 km, is needed to confirm this unless other ways of checking or confirming are used. VW or (VW)Škoda pick-ups seem to be particularly in fashion over here for more affordable "classic" or modified or whatever they now call modified classics - but some things are different here to in Europe with regards parts and the general motor trade and statutory rules and regulations and to some extent the weather which can affect use or lack of use of these type of vehicles but of course many things are the same in UK as Europe, more in common than divides us.

Good to hear it was an easy straight forward job so nothing wasted trying it. I'd put a small bet on any garage that knows or has heard about the car just sez something like "that's how they are / can be" but perhaps not, no harm asking. After you've been to the garage if you want to know about how to possibly get some improvement at least which might help if not fully resolve the issue just repost here.

, especially when the part in question has nothing to do with VW. The float and entire instrument panel is development of Favorit made in CZ, not a VW part. If you don't have anything nice to say, then don't say anything. I'm sorry I thought it had been explained to me the complicated way the fuel gauge reading mech is (possibly by Thefelieciahacker) and it was you that pointed out and reminded me of when VW took over so by 2000 VW were years into ownership and running things so the cars were VW Škoda badged. I expect you have been told a million times about exaggerating. 😁 Lots of comments and advice are very repetitive to those on the forums for a long time but for those new(er) to the site they can be new. I don't hate VW but I certainly have some loathing for company given my knowledge and experience of them and I feel I can offer alternative and balance to the fan boy attitude of some and make my attitude clear so there's no mistake for those that haven't seen too many of my posts previously, posters and viewers only. I give VW and their products credit when and where it is due and will even defend the product in those cases in posts on this site. I've also tried to help with this issue, calculating MPG (as this is a UK car) (and considering Google and computer answers) for Luck and other viewers past, present and future. BUT - I take your point and will lay off a bit and might consider using 'VWŠkoda' more here (as I do on this Briskoda's other forums). It is not always correct but it is cute when said like this -

I am certainly no expert, in anything, but I would have thought any(?) turbo lag would be to do with the computer systems or programing more than or as much anything mechanical and at least if the driver is following the poor quality dashboard gear selection advice then when going from 1st to 2nd would be at too lower revs to notice anything. Some 1.0 litre, 3-cylinder owner/drivers have reported issues with jerkiness when pulling away in first or when in traffic or other times, some get used to it and adjust their driving if required, a few(?) have had faults in the car that could be sorted. When, for a very limited time, I drove a SEAT with the VW 1.0, 3-cylnder, 110PS, turbo engine with 6-speed manual gearbox I didn't notice any issues with the engine (other than it being even rougher than the 4-cylinder 1.2, 90PS but that's VW engines in my experience) or the turbo or the 6-speed gearbox, the dashboard advised gear selection particularly in 'Eco' driving 'mode' did have the engine lugging more than usual and even more silly for ecumenical mpg driving let alone engine life than with the 1.2 TSI, 5-speed which doesn't have electronic driving 'Mode' selection - other than the driver's brain, which can also select the correct gear for more economical mpg driving and help the engine to be (a little bit) more longer lasting, given a bit of driving experience and thought whilst driving.

Well done Steve and thank for the info detail on switching phones. You're a better man than I, farting about with cars at this time of the year. I'm not a fan of any type of phone in a car, when I was younger and even more silly than I am now in the 1980s I thought my mates car phone was clever but then when they became more popular, particularly with builders, wasted so much time saying "hello, can you hear me", "are you still there" was very annoying, things improved and now we're back to reception and phone issues, such is progress. Even when I had a handsfree kit, back at the start of the century, I keep the phone in the boot and not the holster as I wouldn't answer it if I was driving, I'm not and no one I know is that important. I have a mobile phone but it's rarely switched on and sits next to the landline phone anyway, and doesn't have Bluetooth, its 3G. 😄 ETA: I've just noticed a typo in a previous post of mine, I meant to put either a sarcastic smiley at the end or missed out the word not - "And instructions are always well written." I also meant to put as your Infotainment has the colour picture 'buttons' the I think (don't know) it might have the 'Owner's Manual' and Infotainment 'Operating Instructions' in the 'Car'(?) menu but how you read the instructions on the menu 'page(s)' and implement them on the Bluetooth/Phone 'page(s)' is beyond me. Perhaps you take photos of the instruction 'page(s) with your phone then not be able to see them because your phone battery dies or you can't see the screen in sunlight or daylight even . . . 😁 I'll be glad when this Xmas, New Year, January sales stuff is all over and I can get back to my normal level of grumpiness. One last thing, I'm guessing your Mk3 is a later one but if you want to you can add details of your car and location to your file that appears when someone presses the down arrow 'Author stats' top right of post. Cheers. Example -

You'd need someone with access to the relevant database for original part number, then the database might be incorrect even if from car or pump manufacturer and possibly the original pump and/or its number might have been updated and/or alternative parts and numbers can be used through the life of the model and may or may not fit your car. What I mean is, as you are so continue to, take care when ordering parts. It's always been great 'fun' ordering parts but the likes of the German car marques have so many complications (because that is their way). I don't know but am a bit surprised your pump doesn't have a part number which I thought might suggest it's already a replacement but I could be totally wrong about that. Good luck.

I don't know but wonder if in that case the pump wasn't the original(?). You might need your VIN for correct part if there were changes, I'd contact the VWŠkoda Dealership parts department for correct information and price on part as their prices are not always that much higher or even higher but it does depend on the parts. Otherwise I have these links but I've never got parts from any of them so can't comment on them. https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/ https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html https://skoda.7zap.com/en/europe/ https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ HTH.

Hi, welcome. Unless absolutely necessary don't be tempted to spend any money on changes, "improvements" and "upgraders" other than as part of necessary repairs and components, systems or parts replacement as the car is a 10 year old used car (and a VW product at that) as you may need that money for other work. Drive the car for a good while in different conditions and weather to get used to it and find what might need doing and what you like and dislike on the car and what you have or might get used to. Concentrate on brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres and safety electrics ( lights, horn, wiper, blower, etc.) and reflective number plates. Then it's on to whole car (not just engine) servicing and maintenance as required, or missed by previous owner(s). With particularly stop/start VW cars the state of charge and health of the 12v battery is very important so as not to upset the computer systems or they will throw up unexpected warnings, warning lights, unseen error codes and running issues. Even if the headlights seem bright enough and well, well, before the engine hesitates to start the battery could be low enough in charge to upset the computer systems, plenty of posts and threads for all models on Briskoda about this problem. Sometimes just driving the car isn't enough to sufficiently recharge the battery and an appropriate battery charger maintainer is needed following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and charger maintainer instructions. A very long low and slow recharge with a charger of 2-amps to 5-amps to take the battery to 100% charged is best even if it takes two or more sessions to do this. The low priced charger maintainers from the likes of Aldi or Lidl are fine for this. If you don't have the paper printed version of the car's 'Owner's Manual' then a free VWŠkoda pdf version is available from the Škoda Owner's Manuals website, reading it and referring to it can save you costly visits to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and you will know more about the car than some long term owners. HTH. Škoda Owner's Manuals website - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

@Trickiejohn looks like you might have posted in the wrong thread.

😄 It my hobby horse subject, that and the over-complex, intertwined computer programs and systems that German marques have had for decades but particularly VW's (IIRC decades old now) start/stop system throw in with the rest of computer controlled "aids" and "assists" and comfort features that put additional load on the battery and have the computer throw a wobbly and put up warnings, lights and amber triangle of doom if the battery drops too low for them. And this is when the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before the engine doesn't fire up straight away, this is when the battery is very low. This catches out many VW owners, the various model sections, threads and post on the site alone proves this. A timely reminder for some. - The forgotten need in summer. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506654-best-check-your-car-battery-now-why

Provided it is a gear rather than clutch issue then on the manual gearbox as put checking and as required adjusting the gear shift cables may be a good first step to try, then (shock, horror for some) changing the gearbox oil and to a better oil than VW use can help and make a noticeable difference, particularly in colder weather and/or when the engine and car hasn't fully warmed up (this can be the whole of some very short journeys that some owners make). Doing the cable adjustment and/or oil change may help a bit with any clutch issue but of course it won't resolve the clutch issue, poor quality clutches in a Fabia 1.0 TSI is a subject I've just posted to.

Yeap as I put it don't suit all and I can't know your circumstances and choices - but I also know you are not forced to have the car you have and if it's not suitable to you that you have a wide range of alternatives at the same purchase price point or below this for better cars but if you want or think you must soldier on with your Fabia then members in this forum and others can help you. Obviously a website and forum can't do anything about p1ss-poor parts other than if they're from the WW factory possibly help make them last a bit longer or a bit more tolerable. You've got your 2018, 3-cyinder VW engine, Fabia and if your keeping it then this website can help with that. As with all cars being proactive is usually better than being reactive, that is, doing stuff to help prevent or delay as much as possible the usual car and VW specific issues other owners often get. As I've put the 2018 Fabia ain't the 2010 Octavia and a 2018 Octavia won't be as good as a 2010 Octavia and anyway VW's glory days are well in the past now, but the Fabia still isn't a bad car, just could be better and not as good as some other possible choices. Make good with what you've got, read the car's 'Owner's Manual' and refer to it, and keep the car's battery in a good state of charge and health so as not to upset the computers then it's just a matter of carrying out the (minimum) servicing and maintenance VWŠkoda suggest and dealing with issues before they get bad and putting up with those that won't get too bad anyway, Good luck.

Well done Ian, a great idea of using an old plastic card. I'm sure there will be videos of that type of gaiter being removed that show the slots but it's finding them and they could be on other VW brands and models. That Hat Boy Harvey video I posted earlier shows the real world adjustment of the cables rather than the workshop manual versions where all things are super clean and unworn. In the real world the manufacturers usual have black parts against black or dark backgrounds so even seeing them is awkward then they might be covered in all sorts of debris making thing more difficult to plainly see until the area is cleaned up, with the lovely diesel engines there's even more muck and oil everywhere. Messing with internal combustion engines particularly tends to be a messy and mucky business (which some seem to enjoy, each to their own and whatever floats your boat but its just annoying to me. Good luck let us know how you get on. When the clutch was changed the cables might have been adjusted, or not required or not bothered with but if your adjustments don't give you enough improvement or you want more improvement there might be another hopefully reasonable easy and relatively low cost improvement I can suggest and recommend from my decades of experience with old cars and on my wife's 2016 Fabia with basic old clunky design 5-speed VW gearbox.

I would try easing up from the back round the sides forward as I think the two tags that go into slots are at the front. You can use a plastic trim tool or try a kitchen spatula with plastic or with care a screwdriver. Place them between the console plastic and the shiny black plastic of the gear lever gaiter trim. Usually these things are a bit fiddly and awkward to do rather than difficult, always just take your time and don't loose your patience, take care but you might need to apply a little force. Good luck.

I'm glad you've got the clutch sorted and found a decent garage. I'm totally lost at your statement that you and many others can't afford to change the car, you have a 2018 car which you seen to accept that potentially you need to spend £650 every few years to replace the clutch (this may not be the case if a reasonable quality clutch set has been fitted with reasonable quality work). Now the clutch is fixed the car is in a better state for sale. I'm sure whatever price a 2018 Fabia sells for would offer a wide range of alternative cars to purchase of various ages and conditions some of which will be much better value in ownership terms and not require as much servicing and repairs as VWs and those may even cost less to buy than the get for the Fabia. Entirely up to you what you do of course but if this Fabia is suitable to you, and you seem to like the brand as you're on your third at least, then having invested another £650 in it you could, as you have, keep the car but you could also consider that whatever money you have spent on the car is in the past and write that off and not throw further good money after bad at the car. The £650 has at least increased the sales potential and value of the car. I have neighbours that only do hundreds, dozens or none at all, miles per year on their cars and they would save money by selling their cars and having other transport to where ever they want to go, the economics and hassles of keeping the cars is ridiculous but they still keep them, some far too long before accepting reality. Some people very successfully go the bangernomics route, but this doesn't suit all, but some of these cars can be more reliable than say a 2018 Fabia. I've spent and wasted many, many thousands of pounds on car repairs and it took me far too long to learn to write off money spent on a car and get shot of it before wasting any more money on it perhaps the next owner(s) benefitted from the last, and previous, expenditure(s) where I could have but sometimes it's better to get shot of things that have become an annoyance or potential further future hassle and financial drain. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. You could get a torch and have a good look inside the cap and it's threads to see if there is anything in there causing this, difficult to see anything black against a black bit of plastic but you might see, and check all the threads inside look OK. Again you could also check the thread a top rim of the filler pipe. Also you could try a little lubricant inside the cap , blow and wipe any residue out. Personally I also recommend GT85 as it's a longer lasting lubricant and also a penetrating release fluid (read the instructions, hold upright and shake the can well before use). - https://gt85.co.uk/ I suspect you may need to replace the fuel cap and if so for such a part I would just get it from a Dealership, otherwise you could try (note I've not used any of these for parts) - Fisher Brothers, Skoda - https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/ 7zap - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/europe/ Škoda Parts - https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html LLL Parts - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB HTH.

Hi, welcome. As well as the various model sections on Briskoda if you have not already seen it there is a 'Diagnostics & VCDS' section where some members have various levels of experience and knowledge in different formats including OBDEleven. Good luck. 'Diagnostics & VCDS' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Yes it certainly seems the clutches you got on your Fabias weren't the best by a long way Yeah, there you go, 2010. 2017 and 2018 are different to 2010 even if you'd stuck to an Octavia. VWŠkoda seem generally better built in 2010 than say 2015 on then perhaps steps down at 2017, 2019, 2020/1 -on. with new bits being throw on the cars for various reasons. But standard clutches are nothing new and certainly for my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 the 5-speed gearbox seems to be an old clonker design going back basically decades so I'd not expect clutch issues other than poor parts quality (like the front dampers and clonking suspension). Perhaps you should follow Alasdair1's advice and insist on LUK or Sachs and hope their quality hasn't dropped since like many other brands, often when they're taken over or amalgamated in to a larger concern or they become nothing more than a former brand name on a box. Perhaps you might be better turning your back on the brand(s), personally I'd buy an older car from a Japanese or even perhaps Korean going for better manufacturer so parts last longer and less servicing work and (computer) systems to go wrong. Good luck.

Dealer will take it as a trade in if the roof is readily available but of course the replacement will lower the figure they offer. Getting any Land Rover Jaguar (TATA) parts has been a bit of an issue recently including roofs. Panoramic roofs are a great idea in principal but real world is a different matter, like motor sunroofs, drainage and keeping the run channels clear are often not as well thought out and attend to by car manufacturer and car owners. It's all very well having a sweetshop full of all these goodies with a car but things often get very sticky and gummed up. Modern made cars are for renting out only until the warranty runs out, and VW ain't Korean offering 7 years (unless in Australia perhaps IIRC).