nta16

VWŠkoda damper don't appear to be very long lasting, my mate's heavy Toyota still have factory fitted suspension and it's heading towards 30, an ex-neighbour has/had a Yaris closing out its second decade too. My wife's 2015 Mk3 front dampers only lasted 41k-miles and 6 years before they had to be replaced and the Dealership replacements were "misting" after only 11 months / 6-7k-miles of use. Pretty p1ss-poor quality and longevity from VWŠkoda.

I'm with the courts I don't fully trust VW. 😄 I was actually leaning towards 0w-30 if I was keeping the car, thinking 0w-20 was more of the faintly ridiculous nth degree of saving fuel in an overweight vehicle on oversized wheels and tyres, with often only one or two of the 4/5 seats occupied and offering cars that have so much power and speed. I like you like to drive in a spirited way occasionally which can often be less fuel efficient. And the internal combustion engine is such an ancient technology that for decades more and more systems have been bolted on to it to save less and less fuel, plus I've never had the impression the mainstream VW engines are anywhere near the front of the field for engine development. The 15k-miles for LL use might depend on how that mileage is achieved, nothing really simulates real time, real world use which is how customers help with product testing, certainly for a couple of English car brands I've owned anyway. 😄 But as you rightly put why go off anything anybody tells you particularly on the internet without checking and cross referencing so anyone that goes with VW as the manufacturer of the engine is starting at least from a reasonable point. I'm not a VW fan so biased against them. I'm also not with VWŠkoda for their 6 years / 60K-miles interval foe engine air filter changes, particularly for a diesel that needs all the help it can get to be a bit cleaner. DSG box I know nothing of and keep away from, I was never a fan of it when it come out decades back but I'm sure it's useful for some, dilutes the fun of spirited driving in my way of thinking, good for racetrack stuff no doubt. All that should get my opinions well discount for many here. 😄 Be interesting to see what the 0w-20 engines are like after 10-12 years use, they might still be near pristine and 0w-30 ones recycled.

ETA: Long Lasting is a bit of marketing con to me, what it's saying is this oil has been formula to be better soi that it allows more use, suggest what the oil recommend for 9,400/annual needn't be as good, a very good oil will offer better, wider, more protection for longer anyway whether they put LL or Long Life on the label. The engine, the way the car is used, its environment, will dictate the actual oil life. These sort of things seem to me to be more aim at fleet purchasers with side benefit of general public appeal. How far is this taken, just out of interest is the same oil filter specified for annua and flexible (9,400 and 20k?) oil changes does anyone know?

Uhm, VW have made and changed recommendations about oil and coolant in the past possibly to cover previous mistakes and compromises, German car engineering ain't all it's cracked up to be particularly this century. Who knows, what goes on there might land them up in court one day, whoops. 😄 Any 0w-30 or 0w-20 is going to be a good oil (other engine manufacturers are on 0w-16, 0w-12 and 0w-8) will be good oils there will be degrees of differences in protection and of course the oil want to be suited to the engine and its environment and use, so it's horses for courses. The 20 and 30 (of 0w-20 and 0w-30) is a range so one oil at 20 could be close to another oil at 30 especially in use and worn, so it's horse for course again. - (ETA: the 0w of course is same cold crank starting spec on both the oils.) - What is Oil Viscosity a.k.a. Oil Weight? - https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/what-is-viscosity.php The modern oils at this sort of level offer very good protection but if stop/start is used a lot, lots of frequent short journeys (as my wife's Fabia does) then a bit of extra protection might be the just in case belt, braces and bit of string reassurance and if you want to throw in extra bits of chewing gum on top why not. I saw something about GM now recommending a 'thicker' oil than 0w-20 for their engine, how much GM practices for engine building various from VW I don't know but at least they're dealing with the issue but then it's in the USA even VW had to deal with things and cough up in the USA. Europe and particularly UK are much easier touches. Personally I don't over worry about the VW dictates of yet another specification on top of the others already there, and these VAG engines aren't that special (VW 4-pots have always sounded rough to me and I'm used to driving 1960 and 70s BL engines until only a few years ago. I've used Millers oils for a few years now and favour them as they are a local oil blender and their oils seem good to me, I'm currently using Millers Oils EE Performance in my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI engine and 5-speed manual gearbox, the gearbox improvement was noticeable, engine I don't drive the car enough or now listen to all the various engine bay noises at various times. Yer pays yer money and take your choice.

Sorry I misunderstood I thought that mess was part of the fuse. even so the plastic on the fuse holder does not look right, more heat distortion or some some of acid type reaction than usual electric corrasion and crud but it's just an image on a screen to me. With modern VWŠkoda the part numbers are on individual parts including plastic bits, as there has been lots of plastic on German marques for a long time now, I don't know about a 1979 VWŠkoda but I'd be more surprised if there isn't than if there is, so I would remove the part and look on the underside for the part number. Have a look here for possible parts and numbers here. - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FEL (ETA: link is for European car as you've not put your location) HTH.

If you done a back-up then would you not be best to use that. Otherwise have a look in 'Audio, Electronics and Security' forum and if required put a shout out to pab5677 (put the @ symbol just before typing name) but you won't be able to PM him as you don't have enough posts yet. Example @nta16 = @nta16 Audio, Electronics and Security' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. Fuses are standard replacement items suitable for many vehicles so you don't need a part number just the correct size fuse - but - what caused that fuse to be in such a bad condition, if it was the car then that needs sorting before you replace the fuse. Fuses do actually melt rather than "blow" as many people think but that's the metal link that is designed to do so in a bad case you might see the plastic part marked/scorched and perhaps evidence on the fuse holder but I've never seen a fuse melted that bad, what on earth happened, why doesn't the fuse holder look worse, what state is the wiring and connection to it??? ETA: should there be a 40 amp fuse there?

You're using it in a preventative manner so good gong, at about £170(? IIRC?) it's a bit over the top for me but each to their own and if it does the job and you're happy and don't mind the initial cost then it's good. I thought there might be even more modules. Out of curiosity what battery (type, Ah) did VWŠkoda provide for this top of the range 2024 model?

How new or how much tread left on your front tyres, were the tyres on before Koni rebuild - but then you know you won't be settled unless you have alignment checked and if it's checked unless the place doing it is honest they find need for adjustment anyway.

Yeah, my wife's Fabia is (switchable) stop/start with (switchable) DRL and driver "aids" and "assists" and VW complex computer systems and programs, but no, thank gawd, not as much electronic and convenience gubbins as a 2024 car so the battery needs less preventative attention than your 2024 to get your battery life passed the VW 4 years (5 for my wife's car). Surely laptops you plug in the mains! 😁 With the laptops my wife has and had I've noticed a battery power indicator and warning by nothing about health but they were s/h old when she got them, I've no idea about the "smart" (they're not) phones, they don't like me and I don't like them. The dual gauge I pictured is "mechanical" rather than electric on water temp and oil pressure, oil pressure is responsive quickly moving around to a certain extent with temperatures and revs, coolant temperature usually less movement plus pinch of salt accuracy (factory tested at the two sets of dots only). 70s temp gauge is electric two wire as you put, sender and gauge so two points to stray with. As I used to tell me wife you treat them as gauges not "accuracies", having put that the fuel gauge and sender on my last "classic" was more accurate that her at the time brand new modern car (that the Fabia replaced. Before my driving time (late 70s) car batteries need charging and about 60 years later we're back to that. I seem to be the only one to remember (so perhaps on Fantasy Island) that in the 60s electric cars were "he future", and of course electric cars were about before the ancient petrol and diesel puffers we run about in now.

I've never had a charger with fast charge and wouldn't bother as it's not needed for my use. My wife's 2015 Fabia sometimes only does two 2 mile journeys a day including winter occasionally a few other 3 or 5 miles trips too but annual mileage is around 8k-miles a year. Some have told me the alternator and battery will easily deal with this and battery replenished by the car manufacturers and breakdown services tell us otherwise. I can only think the reason there's not a gauge for the battery is that the manufactures think most drivers would find it too confusing or worrying. It was the same with coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges in the 1970s and the reason the needle coolant gauges show a rock-steady 90c when in reality the temperature could be above or below this and fluctuating between. 60s - 70s -

Not all marques and models of cars have or need the big heavy batteries that VWŠkoda, admittedly newer cars with stop/start and all the driver "assist", "aid" and convenience will have bigger batteries so if you follow the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' of 0.1 amps to Ah 6 can be over. But I've found for batteries that are "dead" and possibly been that way for a good while going even lower in amps gets more into the battery that it retains for longer. For those I use my old 1.8 amps (semi-) "smart" (it ain't) charger from the 90s. Obvious it might depend on the state of the plates and take a couple of days or more to fully charge or as near as possible but I've had successes. A couple I'd not recommend for use on a German marque of more recent vintage but fine for more use simpler systems. I used to look after a couple of neighbours' car batteries where the cars weren't used or rarely used, they run and started easily on less than 40Ah batteries, smaller physical size battery so quicker to fill too, as they were Korean and Japanese cars they probably had much smaller and more efficient alternators than the German marques I've encountered - but of course being tactful on a VW site I couldn't possibly comment. 😁

type the symbol @ just in front of Ootohere - example @nta16 = @nta16

That a paid professional's job! 😄 I hope you was using a (manual) hand tool, the correct screwdriver with correct end on it (better than these with bit ends. If so it just a case of learning, I often overtighten, it's about being insecurity in your abilities rather than the fitting. Replace the scew when you get a chance or use a screwdriver that fits well to this damaged screw next time. Seeing it there can be a reminder not to overtighten. Only look at the side with the indent, ignore the other side, if you're not sure wipe the stick and try again. Clean oil can be very difficult to see, if taking from cold engine then if you don't worry about oil on your skin (and I don't blame anyone that does) angle the stick area on your finger and you can perhaps easier see or feel the oil line. Holding the stick against a white piece of paper is often better to your eyes than on a photo. Don't worry these dipsticks aren't good for seeing oil level when the oil is clean and fresh and withdrawing the stick from the tube can give runs so allow time between each look. As I put I think you will be happier taking some oil out and as I put that's finer because you can put some back in too. Another way if you want to, get the engine fully warmed and go for a long run driving "Italian tune-up" style for as much of it as you can and that will possibly drop the level and "blow out the pipes", does the car and driver good every now and then. 😄 (road safety at all times obviously)

Thanks for replies both. In one way it's good to know as I thought I was perhaps being a bit slow and/or not seeing what's under my nose or belly. I would much sooner have the "infinitely variable, Sir" windy windows at the front too and the one-touch bit doesn't bother me but the down-a bit, up-a-bit on the switch to get the window(s) where I want also annoys me, I feel like I've rung The Golden Shot. Another dream shattered . . . 😄

I posted just too later. Most Owner's Manuals have refill capacities but not (VW?) VWŠKoda. Some of their workshop manuals might but refill capacity depends on how much oil is taken out leaving how much residue of old oil and muck, there will always be some unless you take the engine apart. This is why I go with adding about two-thirds to start with and top up with small amounts for as long as it takes. And as with all databases including those from manufacturers there are errors and omissions, measuring what comes out isn't accurate, especially if you've spilt some no matter how much you've tried to avoid this. 😁 I'm more thorough than most about oil changes but still surprised by how much residue is in. Steering wheel dipsticks excluded (far too many of them) I thought they went back from excluding the metal dipsticks to including them again but I'm not familiar with too many newer cars (I'm sure an AI sensor system would save any worries).

Well done on doing this, and getting the help of a glamorous assistant (this I'm sure will fade if you ask too often). As the VWŠkoda Owner's Manual doesn't give a refill capacity, "Simply (not) Clever" I'd go on what Miller's Oil What Oil database has as a guide (after checking with other sources). 4.1 or 4.2 sounds a lot to me but I don't know the engine, as I put always easier to add more than subtract. The "Simply Clever" black dip stick is a pain to read from especially with new clean oil (but same for metal colour ones), I sometimes have to do several dips and wipes but soon the oil suspends the dirt and it gets easier to read. Your red mark is only just over the 'Max' so you could leave it but if it bothers you then suck the oil out to get it below the mark, you can always add it back in if you go too low. Once you have checked the oil a few times with the engine fully warmed and oil left to settle and a few times from cold you'll get to know the oil level. In my wife's car engine I don't see any (to me noticeable difference and as I put I don't mind it at 80-90% between the two marks anyway. With old engines I've found they like their own level with can be below 'max' on the dipstick with the engine and filling the oil to 'Max' it's soon lost. You want the oil fully warmed about 90c on the oil temperature gauge, yes the oil can cope below this but the same as all the driver "aids" and 2assists2 on the car they can't beat physics, all the traction stuff in the world can't beat the tyre to road contact (or lack of it), help yes beat no. For the cabin filter have a look at the leaflet in the Mann filter - never assume others have fitted a part correctly, always check and double/triple check with other (hopefully) reliable sources. - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue.html For engine air filter, some videos on line are better than others for details and ways of doing the work, I don't think the later 3-cylinder cars are as much of a PITA job to get the filter housing out of the car as with my wife' 4-pot, 1.2 but like all jobs you want to take your time with it and clean not just replace the filter. Personally I'd never leave the filter as long as the schedule, again it might be OK but it depends on the environment you drive and park the car in and as the car is is basically a giant air pump on wheels best the air going through isn't too contaminated. It's good you enjoyed your work and go the satisfaction of doing it yourself - as for additive, no-comment. 😄

I'm not sure why you started with the latch if it opened using the screwdriver hole but that's done and now you have switch so fit that and see how you go. You can check wiring at switch with a multimeter but if it's an intermittent fault it might be OK when you check but not later. Wires inside the black plastic trunking, at the opening of boot door that takes wires from bodywork to boot door, can often be fatigued, frayed, broken, you could look there for any visual evidence. Rust around the switch or rear number plate light might perhaps show water leak or corrosion in that area. Have a look at posts and threads here on failing boot switches. HTH.

That and jump starter packs are like having a dog and barking yourself, you should need them for yourself, if you're a mechanic or go out to broken down vehicles that's a different matter, it's like having a spare car in the garage just for when another car might play up or breakdown. Look after the car battery, and that's very easy and very easy work (where you're not really there anyway) then you don't need your property cluttered up with expensive boys toys that are very rarely used prevention is better than cure, especially when it's so easy and very occasional. If you have a home you know about what uses electric and what wastes electric (especially if you've got kids that don't contribute to fuel bills - and leave the electric and heating on unnecessarily). Think of the battery like a bank account, if you keep drawing out without putting enough back in you're soon in debt.

When they deserve it (which can be often) I slag VW off, I'm not as VW fan but I've not noticed the batteries that VW factory fit to be that bad. A battery on a modern car has to be very low before it wont start the engine and unless something like lights are left on over many hours or something is left in draining the battery there are usually warnings that the battery is getting low and too low. Just because an engine start doesn't mean the battery isn't in a low state of charge. If your battery gets very low and more than once then your booster charger, if high/heavy, may not have helped the situation and possibly made it worse. Obviously I can't know as I don't know the details of your booster charger. The more often a battery is allowed to get too low and /or for too long the more the chances of fully reviving the battery dimmish and disappear. Low (amperage) slow, long, FULL recharge (or as much as the battery allows) is best to do a Heineken, quick fast and high may be more convenient but it's not always enough for best. I cleaned my wife's 20015 Fabia MK3 last month for the first time in 12-18 months (I forget) and the door or doors would have been open for many hours plus the radio playing, I don't go fast and was doing a full roof down, door shuts, engine bay and wheels clean (and polish). I no longer remove the wheels to clean under the wheel arches and can't remove all the seats, I wasn't doing interior. I didn't worry about the battery at all.

But who's going to drive me back then! 😁

I don't want the responsibility (or bulk of flipkey remote and metal keys), even if I drive if the car owner is with me the owner takes possession of the keys when out of the ignition and I'm more than happy with that (by choice I would never have a remote).

Thanks for your reply but my wife's car has electric front windows but rear are (my preferred) manual crank handle window winders so I'm not sure it has convenience windows and the remote keyfob may not be in my possession at the time, I'm standing at hot cabin with door open to let some heat out waiting for driver or I'm sitting as a passenger with driver elsewhere.

@lewiswal47 I was hoping you might be able to advise me on this(?).

It might be a language thing but sorry but you have missed both my points, . You do not spray the belt (thought it might help some belts with some squeals, not squeaks, but that's another matter). CptAhab is reporting a whining noise which more likely comes from bearings. Stopping or reducing the noise points to an area of origin of a sound. Noises are very difficult to pin down sometimes and an assumption of belt tensioner needs confirming or eliminating. You could start at tensioner but alternator has also been mentioned, I would start with whichever is easiest to get at first. A big screwdriver might be used for things on the top of the engine, but then there is still a lot of risk to engine and much more importantly person with a running engine, some people have very thick skulls so might not feel or suffer some much damage as others. Using a big screwdriver in more restricted areas with the engine running increases risks even more. Each to their own, I have never in my life seen a car worth my personal injury though I have injured myself working on cars. A little minor injury at one point in life can accumulate to a lot more latter in life.