nta16

With faults like these (or any really) just plugging in a scan tool and accepting the error code isn't enough, as with all diagnostics results have to be confirmed by checking and cross-referencing with further checks and diagnostics. Perhaps the code needs deleting then live driving data to see what's going on to cause it, perhaps at point of return. Something like that requires training, knowledge and experience plus somethings not in stock with all Dealers, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and those are time, patience and a willing attitude. See - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517044-p0441-error-code-on-fabia/#findComment-5792556 Also - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517044-p0441-error-code-on-fabia/#findComment-5804519

Listen some will go mad at the idea of using a sponge. Cleaning and presenting the car is a bit like male overgrooming, face maxing extent to some. I meant to put in my last post years ago our club had a stand next to the Autoglym National concours (concourse to upset some) stand at the NEC international "classic" (over-priced and over-valued old) cars motor show, and later Maguiars, and one year's set up day I well remember an exhibit champion car being pushed out of its trailer with bubble wrap on it. You would have people in the car trade with these cars as they could afford and get done the multi-sprays for the paintwork. When I was a lad I also went to a national custom car and hotrod show so I have experience of at least seeing very high level cars and some idea of what it actually takes to get to that level. A 6-wheeler (classic) Mini with IIRC Vanden Plas rad grille had 20 layers of paint on it. The car was later destroyed in a garage fire so I was told, all that work up in smoke.

No it's the stuff you spray on to "wash" and wax/polish in one product - I should have put Waterless Wash 'n' Wax. There are various makes/labels used on these waterless wash 'n' wax sprays from various manufacturers but they are a much of a muchness with perhaps slight variation of formulas. I've been using this stuff for very many years now. IIRC I first saw the stuff on Ideal World TV channel when it was done in Peterborough and used to buy when it was on offer, £20 (inc. P&P) for 5 litre can then £10 for 5 litres as I already had plenty of 1 litre spray bottles with spray heads. Just one current example - Williams Waterless Wash and Wax 5L with Extended Application Trigger - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322537765619 Many years back I used to spend two days cleaning a used car I'd bought and same preparing for sale, wheels off, boot, door shuts, engine bay "detailing" (that's just clean and polishing, interior with seats removed (easy back then), exterior roof to underside - but last 10-11 years (all the time my wife has owned the Fabia Mk3) I've cleaned it once or twice a year only and exterior paint and windows only too. Cleaning and polishing a car is very overrated and as all of my cars have generally been outside 24/7 365/6 days a year, as with many other car owners, the paints for decades (except red) have been fine with next to no attention to them.

https://www.icarsoft.eu/iCarsoft-VAWS-V3.0 https://www.diagnostic-world.com/pages/more_information__icarsoft_vaws_v30_enhanced_2026_version__vw_audi_seat_skoda_bentley__lamborghini_multi_systemfunction_obd2_diagnostic_reset__coding_tool__official_icarsoft_product_275567.cfm

Personally I'd use a carnauba wash 'n' wax but that won't be popular here. Don't be tight with spraying it on. Use a clean microfibre cloth to apply, a separate clean microfibre cloth to buff off and a third clean microfibre cloth for "extra shine". When the application cloth gets too loaded stop using it and use the buff microfibre cloth instead for application and new or third cloth for buffing and new clean microfibre cloth for "extra shine". I usually clean the wheels separately and/or last because of brake dust. That should stir up the cleaners enough to post.

Hi, welcome. If you've not already seen it, along with all the other subjects and sections on this site is a section for Octavias and forums for the Octavia Mk2 (3) Guides and Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ You are best to add Octavia to your model information for when posting outside the Octavia section and forums. Nice colour. Good luck.

Great news. It should have been fine straight off if you 'coded' the battery in with the scan tool and also used the scan tool to delete error codes, subject to the conditions being meet to for stop/start normal operation. My concern was that perhaps you might have a counterfeit scan tool if you didn't buy it from a reliable source. Always update the scan tool before you use it on a vehicle (and check the batteries for car, and if appropriate scan tools are in a reasonable state of charge to cover all the time and fully complete anything you might be using the tool for (particularly if updating anything on the car).

Hi, welcome. If you've not already seen it, along with all the other subjects and sections on this site is a section for Octavias and forums for the Octavia Mk2 (3) Guides and Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Good luck.

Good news with a little perhaps odd news, and a note for future. Unless the drive you took the car on was a very short one the stop/start should work when it's supposed to, there are many conditions where it doesn't operate and that is normal. Lets start with the easy stuff - check the new data you have entered on the scan tool is correct, no fat-finger or other mistakes make sure all electric items that can be turned off are turned off start the engine, briefly turn on the air-con, blower on full, headlights on, hazards on, turn steering wheel to full lock both ways then back to centre - then turn off all those you turned on that aren't required, go for a drive enough to get the engine warmed up. See if that sorts things and report back. Note. - Up to you what you do, but why were these on, all electric items that are not required should be turned off before turning the engine off. No electric items that are not required should be turned on until the engine is running. This not only saves the battery it also mean you can hear the car and engine bay for any strange noises (smells, vibrations) before you drive off and after you have finished your journey without distractions and noise pollution. If you don't already do so, best is to get in the car, turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine, and both whilst putting your seatbelt on check all the warning lights that should both briefly light up and go out as they should, and look, listen (feel, smell) for anything different, this only takes a number of seconds. Start the engine check all dials, gauges and warning lights on dash, and look, listen (feel, smell) for anything different this only takes seconds. Then you can fart about with TwatNav, entertainments and comforts as much as you like before prepare to drive off safely. HTH.

Hi, welcome. If you've not already seen it, along with all the other subjects and sections on this site is a section for Enyaq with lots of real world info and advice that you can learn from and contribute to. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/398-%C5%A1koda-enyaq-iv/ Good luck.

Hi, welcome. If you've not already seen it, along with all the other subjects and sections on this site is a section for Octavias and forum for the Octavia Mk4, Guides and Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ Good luck.

Hi, welcome. No but your independent or good (when you can find them) auto-electrician, can test the alternator and/or confirm diagnostics, it might possibly be a wire or connector to/from alternator, Halfords misreading or mis-diagnostics and the fault(s) elsewhere. Cars are now very complex, German marques such as VW have been (over) complex for decades, alternators and charging system and monitoring of such by the computer(s) is complex. You might find more and better information in the Kodiaq section particularly if this is a common fault to your model and/or year. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-%C5%A1koda-karoq/

Hi, welcome. This might be better in the Fabia Mk2 forum, I'll report it to a Moderator and see what they think (by clicking on the three dots at the top right corner of your post and selecting 'Report').

Well done on sorting it, and real world report. Many of the electrical connectors are two small/tiny for ordinary meter probes and adapters are needed. With cars fixings are often black to (once) black plastic bits in dark or black areas, all to add to the 'fun' of things. C'mon Mike you know you should consult the car's 'Owner's Manual' so that some of the details you listed didn't come as a surprise. The bottle of sealant is dated and has a three year life so it's probably out of date now, just use the electric pump provided to get you to home or other place to fix a deflated/deflating tyre. Many spare wheels have under inflated or flat tyres siting in the boots for years untended and unused so that time of need a tyre inflater (and reliable pressure gauge) is needed for them before they can be fitted to the car anyway. And if the wheel isn't used then it's jus unnecessary weight being carried around in the boot (along with brace and jack), not that it matters much on overweight modern cars anyway. Any sound engineering is for VW's benefit much more than their customers, if you still fall for that "German engineering" you are sooooo last century. ETA: when holding bits of plastics together on the cars best to have all the fixings fixed/fitted, even with wunderbar VW fantastic plastics. If the column stalk plays up or wiper(s) not working let us know as VW had this issue/fault before but not seen reports of such on newer Fabia models (yours is a 2022(?) Mk3).

If you are 'coding' the new battery with an appropriate scan tool you can just delete all errors codes, the next drive after this will prevent any erroneous error codes showing up, actual issue error codes will of course return if they don't relate to the previous battery being too low for computer systems.

You will have to rely on Cairus as pab567 is currently hardly available due to health / family issues. Good luck.

Hi Marvin, welcome. I'm sure you will get along well in the Yeti, and other, sections of this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-%C5%A1koda-yeti/

Removing a wheel and wheel arch liner is a PITA and lot of farting about with cars for me, I've alreasdy had too much of that - but that's the process. I would test the existing pump first, if it works return the new pump as modern made replacement parts can be of poor quality and not very long lasting. As soon as the new pumps arrives if you can test that it works before fitting as you don't want that not working and confusing things. Good luck. Let us know how you get on.

Unless it has a common fix, if you cannot hear the washer motor then either the washer motor isn't getting good, or any, power (or earth), or the washer motor is kaput, as the car manufacturer might say. Or the wiring, connection(s), switch need attention. Even I doubt it would be the interfering computer systems (tho' you never know with such a recent car). If you've had anyone working or messing around the bottle or wing or steering column they might have disturbed or bugger'd something up, or left something unconnected. I'm not sure what a scan tool can do for this but after checking fuses possibly the next slightly not such PITA and awkward thing might be to check the electric connector to the washer bottle, visual check for corrasion and clean and protect anyway, a meter to see if power gets to the washer connector and go from there.

Hi, welcome. Plenty of owners and others on the Kodiaq section and forums, as well as all other sections and forums of the site giving real world experience and advice. Good luck.

Hi, welcome.

Hi, welcome. You will now also be able to contribute all your knowledge and experience so far, if you want to. 😊

Many apologies, my faulty memory again, I must be mixing you up with someone else then.

Thanks. No as a new member you can't initially PM/DM(?) other members but by putting the '@' symbol directly in front of pab567 I have shouted out (sorry I forget the correct term) to that member. You can do the same, but no point this time as I've ready done it, and he will get notification of the post (unless he's not 'signed up' to this). Quoting someone as I have quoted you in this post also sends a notification if you are 'signed up' (again I forget the correct term) to that.

No need to be sorry, that's fine if MPG reports are important to anyone, I would only want to know about such as regards to the engine and rest of the car running about how it normally does so a very occasional pen and paper check in the old days but as the Fabia is my wife's car she'll know generally about the car's usual MPG. No, I've never seen that and can't imagine (tho' as you know I am often wrong) that it would be necessary or of any use and there is no mention of such in any of the 'Owner's Manuals' that I have noticed. If the connector is off you can leave it off if you want during disconnection and reconnect and if the connector is connected it can remain so during disconnection and reconnection. BTW I thought you were one of the members that had the battery monitor connector disconnected, for a couple years and IIRC reconnecting it for services/MoT(?). But as you also know my memory isn't the best. I didn't disconnect the battery monitor connector when I changed the battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 4-5 years ago and there seems to have been no detrimental effects.