Derbyshirebod

Yes I do have an air freshener hanging form the switch though I wouldn't have said it's heavy enough to impair the spring action? I've counted the switch positions in both directions in both axis. As you say visibly it's difficult to determine if the switches are in the off position! I have another issue in that neither of the near side passenger windows or mirror work anymore! So I've used VCDS this afternoon but there didn't appear to be any error codes for wipers or windows ? Though I'm wondering if I've disturbed the common earth when I fitted a tow bar a few weeks ago?

I know this isn't the answer you want! But I'm not sure if you did or could use VCDS to measure each injectors performance you'd get a definitive answer? 1st thing I would be inclined to do is to remove the throttle body and check it's clean as it's a cause of lumpy tick over on these engines. I bought my 180,000 high mileage 170bhp MK2 Superb with a declared engine fault. The tick over was quite lumpy. Though it was a couple of weeks before it started going into limp mode and throwing up warning lights. VCDS gave error codes P0121 Throttle Position Sensor and P1065 Regulation Discrepancy which was low pressure in the fuel rail. There were no injector related error codes. I came to the conclusion there were 3 likely possible reasons for the low fuel pressure. 1) The Fuel Pressure Regulator. This is quick and easy to access so I bought a cheap pattern one off Ebay for £18 though it didn't resolve the issue. 2) The fuel pump. The bearings in the pump can break up and then deposit metal filings through out the fuel system. You can check in the top of the pump by removing the FPR. Also check inside the fuel filter for metal fillings 3) Injectors these commonly fail on these engines and are expensive! On speaking to my local diesel specialist they said that the only way to check ( though they would wouldn't they! ) for the cause of low fuel pressure would be to remove and test the injectors and high pressure fuel pump off the vehicle. They suggested it would be easier to remove and test the injectors to start with. It cost me £25 + VAT to test each injector to be told they were all knackered! They were all leaking back far beyond permissible limits causing the fuel rail pressure to drop. can Re-manufactured injectors cost me £840 and that resolved the low fuel rail pressure. I suspect the injectors had been changed before because the injector seats had chatter marks indicating that seats had previously be re-cut. The car then no longer went into limp mode and the engine management light wasn't coming on but the tick over was still lumpy and I still had the error code P0121 Throttle Position Sensor. On removing the throttle body I found it was filthy, apparently it's a common issue and cause of P0121 by not letting the throttle flap close. I cleaned the throttle body and refitted it and the lumpy tick over still remained for a few days. I've since read that the throttle body will try and self learn and calibrate if it's usual operating parameters change. What I should have done was use VCDS to restore the factory settings for the throttle body. So the lumpy tick over took a few days to go while the throttle body re-calibrated itself.

I must have spent over an hour outside freezing my nuts off! Messing about with the rear wiper switch and maxidot settings. A couple of times I managed to stop the rear wiper from a single wipe on turning the ignition on. Neither I'm sure how I got it to start again! But I'm not sure how I did it??? As you suggested DrCorbyLee the Maxidot setting doesn't seem to turn the single wipe on or off at ignition on. I'm either extremely stupid or there is a fault with the wiper switch? Making sure the wiper switch is in both the off positions doesn't seem to stop the single wipe at ignition on.

I once bought a car that didn't have the locking wheel bolt key. I drilled down through the middle of the locking wheel bolts with several different size drills progressively using larger diameter drills to drill down to the start of wheel bolt thread. The largest diameter drill I used was smaller than the outside diameter of the wheel bolts so as not to damage the wheel should the drilled holes not have been central to the wheel bolts. Once down to depth a large chisel and lump hammer to break the head off the bolts. I've read of people loosening the other wheel nuts and driving the car round carefully and some where safe to do so until the locking wheel bolt loosens sufficiently until it can be undone by hand. Not sure I'd ever want to try this! And I'd only do one wheel at a time !

Just one wheel gets hot?

No matter if I tick the box or don't on the dashboard screen menu the rear wiper always wipes once when I turn the ignition on. I have a vision when there is a heavy frost the wiper will get damaged when it gets stuck to the rear screen and the wiper activates. Is there another way to stop the rear wiper from automatically activating ? 🤔

Sounds like the the turbo oil seals must have failed! Hopefully the engine won't have suffered from the excess of oil being delivered to the turbo. Guess you were lucky it's not uncommon to hear of engines getting destroyed when the turbo seals fail and the engine carrys on running on engine oil until the sump is empty! The DPF won't appreciate having had engine oil through it! Though some DPF cleaner in the fuel tank and a good run out and getting the engine hot and letting the engine do a regen should sort that out. Has the impeller seized ? If it's been spinning too slowly that's probably the reason for the low turbo pressure "under boost" ? Though there are other reasons for the code.

It could be any number of things but agree with sepulchrave it's not going to be the timing belt. I'd start by getting the car read for error codes to see if there are any that might give an indication as to what the cause of the lumpy tick over might be.

Ooh I also changed the cam belt and water pump! 🤣

Take a short video on your phone can't be bigger than 10mb. Logon to Briskoda on your phone and reply to this thread and click on the "Add Files" box at the bottom left of the screen to upload the video. I have found if I send photos or videos to my laptop they become too large to upload to the forum.

Well in the end going from one broken spring this turned into a long old job! As I kept finding worn parts I kept ordering them. I should have just dismantled all the front suspension checked everything and ordered all I needed in one go! Not unexpectedly I found one the top spring mounting was broken and decide to change both as I replacing both springs and dampers. Then found one of the lower ball joints while it might have passed an MOT was quite loose, so changed both. Found play in one of the drop link joints so changed both! The nearside track rod end had play so changed both! The inner track rod ends no longer hold themselves up but haven't got any noticeable play so have left them for now. A job for next year maybe? Anyway the car now drives much better doesn't pull slightly to the right anymore and the suspension feels stiffer and doesn't have the wallowing feeling over undulating surfaces.

When I took the damper off to change the broken spring I found the damper couldn't have had much gas left in it as it was very slow wouldn't fully retract. I figured the other side would be the same after 182,000 miles (and later found it wasn't) so ordered 2 new front dampers for £61.99 which I didn't think was a bad price for pattern parts and are slightly different to the originals in as much you can't use the lower plastic cap which slides over the body to hold the dust cover. Untitled.mp4

For wheel nuts this says 120NM for both Alloy and steel wheels. https://blobs.continental-tires.com/www8/servlet/blob/1080706/71cfb5154e939befc74980e98145e9a3/download-torque-settings-data.pdf For the drive shaft I'd hazard a guess an initial stage 1 200NM and stage 2 a further 180º. But that might not be correct for a Superb?

In which case I'd definitely be taking it back!

I've just changed both drop links on the front of my car. One joint had play in it. Bought them online £13.25 delivered. I've got a rotary wire brush attachment for my 4.5" grinder which I quickly cleaned the threads up with. Initially they were very tight to undo. The centre of the threads on one set had a hexagon socket for an allen key and the other set a torx socket for a torx key to stop the thread rotating as you undo the nut. A squirt of WD40 and they all came undo easily.

So you've not had it long? If you've still got warranty on the car it has to be worth going back to the dealer as eventually it's going to be a potentially expensive repair.

I've just bought some 16" Golf wheels today with 205/55 tyres that are hardly worn for £150. All my 225/45 17" tyres need pumping every couple of weeks so the tyres need removing and the rims cleaned and repainted.

You wouldn't usually hear any difference. If it's not that noisy I'd be inclined to live with it till it starts getting really noisy.

It could depend on how the car has been driven, if the majority of those miles were stop start or the clutch has been ridden instead of using the handbrake that could increase wear. Though that's a fairly low milage. Does it go quieter depressing the clutch when moving or stationary? It could be potentially be an expensive repair as the gearbox will need to be removed.

It sounds like you have a noisy clutch release bearing?

Usually when I set the tracking on most of the cars I've ever owned I set with a small amount of "Toe In". My understanding being that the force being put on the front tyres when driving is to usually try and force the wheels to "Toe Out" the force varies in relation to the speed at what your traveling. Something I noticed over 10 years when I was driving around 3000 miles a month. At the kind of mileage in a short time period you can soon start notice how your front tyres are wearing. I've got a laser alignment tool which has now paid for itself many times now over the years. I use it every time I change a front suspension component. It can be a bit fiddly on your own and best used in the shade so you can see the red alignment dot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300814333955?hash=item4609ee7803:g:NAwAAOSwC3Zdlzpa

I apologise if this covered somewhere else. I've searched but can't see what I'm looking for. What is the Toe In setting for a MK2 Superb Estate 4x4 ? My car has done 181,000 miles, I've done about 2000 miles in the car since I bought it. I'm in the middle of changing most of my front suspension components for new parts. I didn't pay much attention when I took the front wheels off and I didn't check the tracking before I started removing the front dampers. I know one front tyre was starting to show wear on the inside edge I've now noticed the other tyre has also got wear on the inside edge. Assuming the tyres have worn like this while on the front of the car then the front wheels have too much toe out? So when the new track rod ends arrive on Tuesday (one track rod end has a small amount of play) I'm thinking I'll set the front tracking to 0º to -0.1º toe in.

Thinking about it I've also got it wrong! 235 40 19" side wall is 94mm 245 45 18" side wall is 109mm So 109mm - 94mm = 15mm taller side wall for the 18" wheel. My previous remark would only be correct of 3.5mm side wall difference if both wheels were the same diameter.

No his calculation isn't wrong because he wasn't talking about diameter. He was talking about the side wall height being 3.5mm taller for the 18" wheels which is effectively a radius. A radius of 3.5mm X 2 = 7mm difference in diameter. 19" = Tyre Ø 671 18" = Tyre Ø 678 Yes the 18" tyres are 10mm wider than 19" increasing the volume of air in the tyres and possibly making the ride more comfortable as suggested.

I'd have been happy to help but I'm looking to move shortly.