leolito

Perhaps true, but I still feel that not every clutch-ing and de-clutch-ing when entering/exiting Coast Mode is really and absolutely necessary. More wear on components which are already not the most reliable in their class .... Not to mention waste of brake material instead of using the engine to slow down .... Personally I've grown to dislike it immensely, and often drive in Sport just not to have it. Know that it can be coded out of Normal, but still in the "to do" list ....

Hope is the right area .... I am making some garage clean-up, I have this to offer ... I do not own a Diesel now nor I plan to, so I think is time for a new engine bay. Is a Tunit box for Diesels, a piggy-back box with its harness that sits in between the OE wiring loom. It has some settings for increase the level of tune. I bought it when I had my Wrangler (looking now at the receipt I still can't believe what I paid for it!) and, when sold, I put it in a sealed ziploc and actually lost track of it during a moving, but now is back! 😁 It has seen less than an year in the car, as you can see from the conditions of the harness/adapter to the car. Said adapter could be compatible with other cars, this should be checked with Tunit. I think they can sell independently that. Prices vary wildly from 50/60 to over a hundred, but for a quick sale I offer it at 75GBP and this includes shipping to any address in England, Wales, and some in Scotland (you need to tell me before I can confirm). This is through my courier branch within the UK so no extra fees or taxes, just a bit longer delivery. Available for additional information. Thanks!

How were the pads? From the looks of the discs, it would seem very little portion of the pad was actually working ... might be worth check proper caliper operation.

Again, I would not do what you seem to be wanting to do 😁 Spend money elsewhere first, to make "racket" there is always time. Occy, removing backboxes on a V8 makes a hell of a racket, perhaps acceptable if you are stupid and in your 20s, but it grows old quickly afterwards, or you are just old and stupid....also. Me and my mates tried every possible configuration on RV8 RRs, with or without cats, with or without center muffler, with or without backboxes .... it offers different results for different tastes 😁 This is without cats, center muffler and no backboxes 😜

I offer a few options: a) dismount the tires if they are still good, and for the money that new steel wheels cost, get them and you are back on the road in no time. The old wheels have multiple purposes as "stands" or other weight items, before going to the scrap, which you might get some pennies as well. b) if you want to "restore", as mentioned above, and are concern about their condition, the best course of actions is to dismount the tires, bring the wheels to a good tire center and have them checked for distortion or unbalance, and eventually repair them. Then you go to sandblast them, and have them powdercoat with a proper treatment which will prevent rust and will last much longer. Obviously this is recommended only if the wheels are valuable enough to justify the hassle and expense. An alternative to powdercoating is paint, but then you need someone that will paint professionally and with desire, and I would add have him/her put a double layer of lacquer on top, to increase resistance to damaging action. c) if you have a looooot of time to waste, endulge yourself in hours of destroying your hands, fingers, and equipment in using a wire brush. Make sure you get good, thick gloves, you will need several wire brushes and avoid cheap ones from the bricolage as they literally disintegrate and fly off everywhere. In anycase, make you wear protective glasses, ALWAYS! Keep your eyes safe from harm, they are among the most expensive "items" in our body ... You are likely to wear and trash out a drill for this purpose, so keep this in mind. If you use a battery powered make breaks if you see battery gets too warm. After that, provided you manage to remove ALL the rust all around the rims, is time to use a proper ground/epoxy base and then paint. If you do it by brush, depending on your skills if will range from horryfing to acceptable. I think I was clear in illustrating how useless the entire process is. I have wasted many an hour and many a piece of equipment trying to save things undeserving to be saved. Hope these words are useful to others to avoid wasting time, money, and potentially hurting themselves. Last but not least, a wheel that has reached this condition denotes years of neglect. To avoid getting to this stage, it would be advisable to have wheels cleaned regularly, especially after the bad season. When in the initial corrosion phase, the simple application of a corrosion converter like Wurth/Fertan and others, can minimize the damaging action of rust, and then even a simple spray/brush application of a product like Hammerite can keep it at bay. When it arrives to this condition, is a much more involving "saving action", and most of the times, hopeless unless radically approached (sand/powder, for example).

I am not a fan of deleting backboxes, the amount of noise more than sound in noticeable. Removing some component in the middle of the exhaust line is more appropriate, but in any case you increase noise and possibily inducing droning, I actually stopped years ago experimenting with this.

I would not think this could be a problem .... A note for all those with the swiwel tow, make sure you drop it once in a while, especially now after the bad season, and spray some oil or at least WD40/grease in the hinge mechanism! Also, I've notice some rust pitting on mine, although it is greased and with a rubber protector. I am thinking to create some sort of "cover" for that hole, all sorts of crap go in there ....

I think you'll be fine. This is a reasonably light load. Compliments on the Super Seven! 😉 I towed a Dacia Spring on a two-axle trailer is it was fairly effortless, I used DCC on Sport to minimize a bothering "shunt" that I never had on my earlier haul-car ... but being a P38 Range Rover is much heavier and with separate ladder chassis ...

I would say it is not somuch in the mileage by itself, but in the "mix" urban/extraurban. While in the open my 280 is brilliant also fuel economy wise, in the city is is chugging fuel at an amazing rate for such "brilliant" engine, with numbers that reach 13-16l/100 which is not economical at all. Weird I was expecting it would be more efficient, but it is not, no matter the driving.

All is well, when it ends well! 😁

Interesting, I had some of your troubles but not all, and in random order. For example, restart from last vs start from the beginning, I have no idea what or where it decides to do one or the other. Totally random. I solved the issue putting a tune I like as first, so I do not get bothered I need to listen to it endessly until I select something else 😁

All nice news, eh? 😁

Well, for what regards the reparability, they are as any other alloy rim, so filler and welding if needed can be made. The problem comes with the "shining" surface, which requires a specific workshop that makes "diamond cut" finish. Unless you come across the (very expensive) tooling, I do not think you can DIY that. A damaged rim like that would need to be, for example, welded/filled, then painted, then goes to the diamond cut, then on top the transparent lacquer. It is not cheap, I seem to recall 2.5/3x times the cost of a "normal" wheel spray, but this to be confirmed by some local shop in your area .... Also, wheel needs to be very straight for the machining, so make sure they go first for check. Usually the same shop that makes the diamond cut will inspect them beforehand, at least that they did for me, and for free - I had a set of Pentas made for an old MB.

Well, you are in a squeeze ... while your rock will play on USB, check if you have a port inside the armrest between the front seats. Mine can play "normal" USB only from there, or the USB-C by the ashtray but I do not have an USB-C so I use it only for the phone while in Android Auto. The two ports to the rear seats are only for charging, and unfortunately are only USB-C as well. Basically, this car has made me re-arrange my entire approach to communications and music. I spent my life listening to CDs in the various cars and never had a problem with that, now I got to deal with FLAC and other stuff, but is practical for going around with much more. I am not a fan of spotify or such, I like to choose my music and despise burning battery and connectivity in streaming, nevermind I consider it harfmul to spend long time inside the cockpit flooded by transmission waves ..... I am slowly passing all the CDs to digital library and from these to flash drives and use those. I thought of gtting a larger drive but I have a bad memory of losing stuff due to "accidents", so I rather divide by genres (I'd put your prog rock together with harder acts, but leave pop/easy listening in the "family usb drive" 😁) this was you can swap easily the collections ... is like having "a collection of CDs" instead of "single" CDs ... is okay 😉

I know more than one will regard this madness, but I do give the wheels a proper clean up after each season, and before taking them to rebalance I do clean them up, remove all othe old weights, I have a blunt kitchen knife I use to scrape all the old glue without scratching the rims, and finally remove all the stones with a thin screwdriver. Sounds overkill, but I have also found this soothes me, so is like therapy without paying a doc's fee.😁

I may go down that route, a small spacer, but will see. For now I just fitted the 18s and must post pictures. Pads, travs knows, I will be getting what he is getting when the time comes. Software, mine still original, but most likely will use TVS together with the DSG remap. Tires, how do you find the Hankook? I have the same Vertus, but on my wife's ex-car (long story), a simple Micra K12, and I am fairly disappointed on their performance after less than three years are already presenting cracks in the carcass, between the threads, and general loosing grip. Considering that this is 80hp with a 4-speed auto only used in the city, is frankly a failure in my book....

Great advice above about the turbo modifications and whatnot. Heed! I have seldom noticed that changes to the hardware actually increase the driveability and therefore contribute to the general "usability" of any given car. Yes, you can increase performance, being faster off the line, or up above a certain speed, but in general, messing around with the turbo will result for sure in: a) change in the boost threshold, generally moving upwards the baseline; b) change in the lag response, with varyng results; c) a general disruption to the general balance of the components. All this is not negative per se, is a matter of personal choice when choosing to mess around with the car, your personal property after all. But if you end up with something more enjoyable sometimes, and less enjoyable most of the time, then probably was not a good idea to start with ... ask me how I know 😁☠️ I think you could start work with software and take it from there 🙂

Mine engine coolant reservoir is much darker, what could be the reason? I will take a picture of it ...

Yes the new type of gas this 1234 whatever, costs an arm and a leg compared to the older R134

wow ... all is working fine now?

Well in this case, the manual function always remain, this is a "convenience feature" but if it failes or is it deactivated, does not harm or impact anything ..... Great piece of info and hope this stays in the archive for future reference! 😉

I have also experienced problems in the most infavourable situations, and this also change the battery at the first sign of impending failure. The "bother" to loss a day, week, or month of "battery usage" by extending its agony, seldom exceeds the "bother" to have at minimum carry around cables, and as we all have experienced at some point, find ourselves in trouble when least practical... As to force the test: take a tester, measure battery, watch it as it cranks and starts the engine, then load it up with A/C, lights and some other heavy consumer. If it drops notceably or oscillates, its ability is compromised ...

Are you making lassos with the remaining wire? 😁

If you can lift the hook/pin without resistance, then there is no more connection between the actuator and whatever is supposed to actuate ... can you actually hear it moving? In a quiet environment is clearly audible. It would not be strange for both to have failer, but in that case a look at the electrics would help.

Expanding the above, besides the "visual fill", it would be interesting to consider when a wider wheeltrack can add a meaningful improvement in handling, like to justify adding spacers of x/xx mm to compensate. For examples, "S", "M" and "Sportline" models of bygone era had wider tracks - especially at the front than their original counterparts, ranging from 3 to 8 mm, noticeable especially by the enlarged front fenders. Anyone that had used a SIII without and then with say 10mm spacers, could be judged a noticeable change in the driving dynamics of the car?